Color speaks a powerful cultural language, conveying political, sexual, and economic messages that, throughout history, have revealed how we relate to ourselves and our world. This ground-breaking compilation is the first to investigate how color in fashionable and ceremonial dress has played a significant social role, indicating acceptance and exclusion, convention and subversion.
From white used for pioneering feminism to the penchant for black in post-war France, and from mystical scarlet broadcloth to the horrors of arsenic-laden green fashion, this publication demonstrates that color in dress is never straightforward and is as mutable, nuanced, and varied as color itself. Divided into four thematic parts – solidarity, power, innovation, and desire – each section highlights the often violent, emotional histories of color in dress across geographical, temporal and cultural boundaries. Underlying today's relaxed attitude to color lies a chromatic complexity that speaks of wars, migrations and economics.
While acknowledging the importance that technology has played in the development of new dyes, the chapters explore color as a catalyst for technical innovation that continues to inspire designers, artists, and performers. Bringing together cutting-edge contributions from leading scholars, it is essential reading for academics of fashion, textiles, design, cultural studies and art history.
Chapter 1. Color as Theme in the Ebony Fashion Fair
Chapter 4. Contradictory Colors: Tricolor in Vichy France’s Fashion Culture
Chapter 5. Dress and Color at the Thai Court
Chapter 6. “Gold and Silver by Night.” Queen Alexandra: A Life in Color
Chapter 7. Lord Boston’s Court Uniform: A Story of Color, Politics, and the Psychology of Belonging
Chapter 8. Yellow is the New Red, or Clothing the Recession and How the Shade of Shame Became Chic
Chapter 9. Color before Technicolor: Colorized Fashion Films of the Silent Era
Chapter 10. Color as Concept: From International Klein Blue to Viktor & Rolf’s “Bluescreen”
Chapter 11. Tainted Love: Oscar Wilde’s Toxic Green Carnation, Queerness, and Chromophobia
Chapter 12. Starlit Skies Blue versus Durindone Blue
Chapter 13. Rough Wolves in the Sheepcote: The Meanings of Fashionable Color, 1900–1914
Chapter 15. British Scarlet Broadcloth, the Perfect Red in Eastern Africa, c.1820–1885
Chapter 16. Lives Lived: An Archaeology of Faded Indigo