PART II
COMMODORE PERRY HAD TOLD THE JAPANESE that he expected to return in the spring, with a larger fleet. While waiting for more ships, his squadron docked at Hong Kong, known as the “man o’war’s paradise”—plenty of women and liquor. In order to maintain control, Perry saw to it that officers drilled their men regularly, and he insisted that his crew arrange decent entertainment on board the ships. Musicians from the Mississippi gave concerts. The Susquehanna featured its Troupe of Funny Fellows, whose comical shows had female characters “appropriately wigged and dressed.” (Costumes were expertly and inexpensively made by Hong Kong’s cheap labor.) Men aboard the newly arrived Powhatan featured the Ethiopian Minstrels. (Minstrel shows were the rage in pre-Civil War America, in both the slave states and in the North. Entertainers blackened their faces in order to caricature poor, uneducated blacks. There were skits, jokes, and song-and-dance routines.)
The Shogun had died ten days after the Americans left Japan.1 At the request of the Japanese government, the Dutch informed Perry that there would be a long period of national mourning, and, therefore, he should not return in the spring. The Commodore suspected that the death was an excuse for delaying his return.
The Powhatan
courtesy of the Honolulu Academy of Arts, gift of Mrs. Walter F. Dillingham in memory of Alice Perry Grew, 1960
Russians who had heard of the Shogun’s death sent word that the Japanese would not receive foreigners for at least three years. Perry feared that the Russians wanted to detain him while they hastened to Edo for their own treaty. After learning that a French ship docked near Hong Kong had suddenly put to sea under sealed orders, Perry decided to move on. Neither the Russians nor the French would get ahead of him. Rather than wait for spring and good weather, he left as soon as he organized his expanded fleet, braving the rough seas and extreme cold that made winter sailing dangerous.
On February 13, 1854, the Americans reentered Edo Bay and anchored near Uraga. They had nine heavily armed ships, with approximately 1,600 men.
Commodore Perry and Commander Adams
courtesy of the Honolulu Academy of Arts, gift of Mrs. Walter F. Dillingham in memory of Alice Perry Grew, 1960
Japanese officials and interpreters came aboard the Powhatan, which Perry had made his flagship for this visit. Weeks of long, tiresome talks took place about where the Americans should land. Perry, sequestered in his cabin, once again played the role of His High and Mighty Mysteriousness. Commander Adams, designated to represent him, stated that “Admiral” Perry wished to negotiate a treaty at Edo. However, he was told that a Treaty House had already been erected at Uraga.
Talks dragged on day after day until the Commodore lost patience and let it be known that he intended to march to the Imperial Palace. According to a Japanese interpreter, he threatened to make war, and “in the event of war he would have fifty ships in nearby waters and fifty more in California, and that if he sent word he could summon a command of one hundred warships within twenty days.”2
In order to relieve tensions, Commander Adams invited the Japanese to bring their wives on board ship for a dance. The reaction was unexpected, and the invitation certainly changed their serious mood, for the Japanese could scarcely suppress laughter. What a ridiculous idea! Bring wives to a dance? Americans have absurd, amusing customs.
But many Japanese were not so amused when they heard a 21-gun salute on February 22. This was part of the crew’s Washington’s Birthday celebration. Frightened villagers didn’t calm down until they were told that the shots were in honor of the “King of America.”
On the other hand, Americans were alarmed and grasped their sidearms when a Japanese official snapped his fan shut. It sounded like a pistol shot. They relaxed only after the fan carrier put on spectacles in order to read documents.
American musicians on shore leave
courtesy of the Honolulu Academy of Arts, gift of Mrs. Walter F. Dillingham in memory of Alice Perry Grew, 1960
During the long three-week wait at least eight boats left the American ships every day to survey and chart the waters. The crew took turns. Despite the harsh winter weather, the men were happy to leave the monotony of shipboard life. To break up the boredom, Perry saw to it that band concerts were frequent. (He had hired an Italian bandmaster who was in charge of the quality and performance of the music.) The crew was encouraged to fish, not so much for food, but in the hope of discovering new species. The Commodore was very interested in natural science. Whenever an unusual fish was caught, an artist on board painted its picture before it ended up on a galley’s stove.
Fishing was a popular pastime.
courtesy of the Honolulu Academy of Arts, gift of Mrs. Walter F. Dillingham in memory of Alice Perry Grew, 1960
Twelve days after the Black Ships appeared off Uraga, Kayama showed up. The officers were delighted to see him. He had played such an important role during their first visit, they wondered why he hadn’t been sent out to greet them. Some feared that he had been ordered to commit suicide because he had been too friendly with them. However, although his government was piqued by his attitude toward the Americans, they summoned him at this time because he got along so well with them. Perhaps he would be able to convince Perry to land at Uraga.
Because the talks weren’t making headway, Perry ordered his ships to sail toward Edo. Kayama received instructions from his alarmed superiors: “If the Americans land at Edo, it will be a national disgrace. Stop them and have the meetings at Kanagawa.”3Kanagawa was near Yokohama, which was a small fishing village at that time. (Today Kanagawa is part of the city of Yokohama.)
The deadlock ended. The Treaty House was transported from Uraga piece by piece and set up in the new location, closer to Edo. Perry anchored his squadron in Yokohama Bay in battle formation, heavy guns covering five miles of shore. Commanders Buchanan and Adams were sent to Kanagawa to examine the site of the Treaty House and to instruct native workmen about building a wharf suitable for the navy’s boats.
Parties
On March 1, the Americans gave a party for Japanese officials. Kayama and nine other guests enjoyed the experience of eating strange foods using odd-looking utensils—knives, forks, and spoons. They drank cherry cordial and champagne, served in the most unusual containers they had ever seen—glassware. One fellow filled his glass with olive oil and drank heartily, assuming it to be a type of wine. (What a belly laugh the Americans had! But the tables were turned when weeks later a navy man tasted Japanese hair oil, then bought some believing it was good liquor.)
A Navy man tasting Japanese hair oil
courtesy of the Honolulu Academy of Arts, gift of Mrs. Walter F. Dillingham in memory of Alice Perry Grew, 1960
The guests wrapped leftover turkey, asparagus, ginger, pie, and other desserts in pieces of paper that they always carried in their wide sleeves. Bringing home leftovers from a banquet was an accepted custom. But the crew thought them crude and made fun of “Japs in silk petticoats” who wrapped food in “nose papers.” (Their all-purpose tissues were useful as handkerchiefs and made excellent writing and wrapping paper—finer than any made outside the Orient.)
Several more parties were given for the Japanese while all waited for the Treaty House to be completed. To prove that they were a hospitable people, one of the Japanese mentioned that after a treaty was signed, the crew would enjoy the company of Japanese women. But he advised them to shave off their moustaches, because the females did not like hairy men.4
At one of these get-togethers, Kayama was introduced to a Japanese member of the crew, called Sam Patch. (No one knew his Japanese name.) Patch had been shipwrecked, then rescued by an American merchant ship. After spending a year in California, he went to China and there joined the crew of the Susquehanna. He did so without intention of returning to live in his native land.
Thought to represent Sam Patch
courtesy of the Honolulu Academy of Arts, gift of Mrs. Walter F. Dillingham in memory of Alice Perry Grew, 1960
When Patch met Kayama he was terrified. Trembling with fear, he fell to his knees, positive that he was about to be condemned and beheaded for allying himself with aliens. Commander Adams had a hard time convincing him to stand up, assuring him that as a member of an American crew he was safe from harm.5