Techniques

IN THE SUMMER OF 2012, I HAD THE CHANCE TO FISH FOR

peacock bass in a lake outside of Miami with guide Roger Gonzalez. These aggressive fish are native to South America, but were introduced to Florida in the 1980s. I had never chased peacocks before, and kept making a rookie mistake in the first few hours of the trip. Each time a peacock boiled on my popper fly and missed it, I would pause, hoping it would come back for another blow like a largemouth or smallmouth bass.

“You’ve got to keep the fly moving,” Gonzalez told me. “You want that fish to think the food is getting away. When a fish misses, strip the fly faster than before.”

Sure enough, as soon as I started working the fly fast after a miss, the peacock would strike even more aggressively than the first time. Gonzalez’s technique was simple, but it made all the difference.

In many cases, techniques are no more than subtle nuances that change the presentation of a bait or lure in a minor way, but produce major results. The difference in strikes between dragging a tube on the bottom and hopping it for smallmouth bass can be drastic. Learning to flip cast a jig into a tight spot instead of trying to overhand cast can result in that jig spending more time in front of the fish and less time tangled in a branch. The techniques in this chapter have been broken down by species, and will help you dial in your plan of attack based on everything from water depth to the time of year. The more techniques for your favorite species you have in your repertoire, the better prepared you’ll be to catch them under any conditions.

114 CRANK UP YOUR SPRING

It’s springtime. You’ve got a tackle box full of crankbaits and a whole lake in front of you. Question is, how do you make this popular lure work best during this transitional time of year? This guide will help.

SEASON AND LOCATION KEY

EARLY SPRING

Water Temperature:

40°–55°

Time of Year: February-March in the South; March-April in the North

SPRING

Water Temperature:

55°–70°

Time of Year: March-April in the South; April-May in the North

POINTS Fan your casts to the points of creek mouths and within the first quarter of creek arms; use a balsa wood–body crank. You may need spinning tackle to cast it, but it’s worth it. Plastic lures may cast farther, but nothing beats the sexy wobble of a balsa wood crankbait, especially early in the season.

GRAVEL AND ROCK Run a ½-ounce lipless rattle bait over gravel and rock bottoms near the mouths of creeks. Make regular bottom contact. Sunny banks are generally more productive, as rocks trap heat.

BANKS AND RIPRAP Sweep 45-degree-angle banks and riprap with a suspending crankbait, which will hover in place when you pause the retrieve. This gives sluggish bass ample time to respond. Any time you come across shallow brush, stumps, or wood, switch to a ⅜-ounce diving crank and bounce it off the structure.

SUBMERGED GRASS Work over the deep edges of submerged grassbeds, which are just now beginning to grow, with a shallow-diving crankbait or lipless crank. In many lakes, grass is present down to 10 to 12 feet, though in especially clear lakes it could be 18 feet or deeper. Tick the top of the vegetation with your lure to mimic baitfish fleeing the cover; this can trigger reluctant bass to attack.

WOOD COVER Crank a tight-wiggling ¼-ounce bait in orange and a wide-wobbling ⅓-ounce in pearl red eye over wood cover. This includes stumps lining creek channels that cut through flats, brush, and windfalls along the bank and next to boat docks.

GRAVEL AND CLAY BANKS Pull bass from chunk-rock, gravel, riprap, and red-clay banks with a ⅜-ounce crayfish-imitation crank that dives deep enough to bounce off the bottom.

GRASSBEDS Cast and retrieve a ½-ounce crankbait over submerged grassbeds and along the inside edges. A crank that dives no deeper than 1 foot is ideal where grass grows up within inches of the surface.

FLOODED BUSHES When water rises above normal depth in the spring, crash a heavy ¾-ounce lipless crankbait through submerged bushes. You’ll need a stiff graphite rod and 50-pound superbraid line.

115 BUILD A BETTER TUBE RIG

One of the best bass baits you can fish in grass and other cover is a Texas-rigged tube with a bullet weight. One major drawback: The weight, or the cover, can push the fat-headed tube down the hook’s shank, where it causes frequent snagging and missed strikes. This simple rigging trick combines a tube hook and a swivel to keep the tube in place.

STEP 1 Thread a ¼-ounce tungsten bullet sinker and a No. 12 swivel to the main line, and then tie off to a 3/0 extra-wide-gap offset hook. Now run the hook through the nose and out the side of the tube.

STEP 2 Push the hook point through the open end of the swivel. Slide the swivel up the hook’s shaft to the bend near the eye. The sinker will sit on top of the swivel.

STEP 3 Finish Texas-rigging as normal. The swivel will keep the sinker from pushing down on the tube and keep the tube from sliding down the hook—even when a bass nabs it.

116 CATCH BASS WITHOUT A BOAT

Who says you need a fancy bass boat and expensive electronics to catch a hog? Learn to read your local pond, and you’ll be able to hook up like a bass pro with your feet on the bank.

LOOK BEFORE YOU CAST

Before you walk to the bank, take a few minutes to watch the pond. You may see baitfish activity or perhaps even feeding bass. Study the shoreline for likely bass cover and decide how you’ll approach it. Walk or stand in tree-shaded areas, if possible, instead of being out in the sun. This makes you less visible to fish, which also tend to lurk along shaded shorelines.

FIND THE CHANNEL

There may be a small creek entering one end of the pond itself. Try casting a buzzbait at the mouth of the creek and in a 50-foot circle in front of the mouth in the main pond. If that doesn’t produce, work the channel edges with a weighted Texas-rigged plastic worm.

WORK ALL STRUCTURE

Start looking for shoreline structure. The key is to spot something that looks different. A big rock, a solitary stump, a small point, and a stock fence extending into the water all potentially harbor bass. Work such spots first with a floating stickbait in short twitches and long pauses. Follow up with a slowly retrieved plastic worm.

SCOUT WEEDBEDS

Beds of lily pads or other weeds are obvious targets. The trick is to work a lure without hooking gobs of vegetation. Use a floating, weedless frog, which will slide over the dense mats and can be paused and twitched in small pockets of open water.

PARALLEL THE SHORELINE

Don’t neglect shorelines that seem featureless, such as long stretches of grassy or gravel banks. These are common to ponds without dams and can hold plenty of foraging fish. Cast parallel to shore and work a shallow-running crankbait or plastic worm slowly within a few feet of the bank.

DREDGE THE DAM

If the pond has a dam, the area in front of it offers both a steeply sloping underwater edge and the pond’s deepest water. Texas-rigged plastic worms, lipless crankbaits, and diving stickbaits all work well parallel to the edge. Also, try dredging the deepest water with a Carolina rig, which will allow a soft-plastic worm or creature bait to hover just off the bottom as you drag it back.

SURVEY THE CENTER

Some bass will suspend at mid-depths at the center of a pond. Lipless crankbaits can be cast long distances and work best for reaching these fish. Experiment with retrieve speeds and allow the lure to sink to varying depths with each new cast.

FISH THROUGH SNAGS

Fallen trees extending into the water attract bass. Make repetitive casts with a lightly weighted plastic worm. Work it slowly through the branches and around the trunk. Gently lift your rod tip to ease the worm over snags so you don’t get hung up.

LOOK FOR STOCK

Many farm ponds have a section of bank that’s been trampled by watering cattle. Schools of minnows are attracted when cattle stir the bottom. Bass often patrol these disturbed edges, so work the area carefully with a small stickbait.

117 STOCK UP ON ESSENTIALS

A basic pond-fishing kit will fit easily in your pocket and is designed to work with a medium-weight spinning outfit spooled with 8- to 12-pound-test monofilament. Thousands of other choices exist, but these few lures will guarantee at least some success on ponds anywhere in the country.

1 A weedless, floating frog in a natural color.

2 A lipless crankbait in chrome with a blue back.

3 A ⅜- to ½-ounce topwater buzzbait in white or chartreuse.

4 A pack of 6- or 7-inch straight-tailed plastic worms in green or pumpkin and a few size 3/0 offset-shank worm hooks; an assortment of bullet-shaped worm weights in 1/16- to ¼-ounce and some round wooden toothpicks for weight pegging.

5 A floating twitchbait or stickbait in black and silver.

118 GET THE BASS BUGS OUT

Flyfishing for bass is a slow-paced antidote for the run-and-gun tactics of many conventional bass anglers. Sometimes, though, it’s too relaxed. Catching bass on a surface bug is so often assumed to be a simple process that too much ends up taken for granted. Pay a little attention to these problems here, and you’ll land many more bass with surface bugs.

MIND YOUR TIP The biggest mistake most people make is holding the rod tip a few inches above the water. That leaves a short curve of slack line between it and the surface. When you strip a few inches of line to work the bug, the force of that strip is used up in shortening the slack and the fly moves only a little. If a bass does strike, that sag sometimes means you’ll miss the fish. The rod tip belongs right on the water’s surface when you’re retrieving.

TURN IT OVER A poorly designed leader will fall back on itself as the final cast is completed, or it may flop to the left or right as the cast straightens. In any case, your bug will land a foot or two off target. To fix this, cut about 18 inches off the forward end of a new 8-weight bass line so that the forward taper ends more abruptly. Then use a nail knot to attach 3 feet of stiff 40-pound-test monofilament (.025-inch diameter). Finally, attach a common 7½-foot knotless, tapered bass leader (.023-inch butt diameter) using a blood knot, and cut about a foot off the leader’s 12-pound-test tippet end. The combination of stiffer butt and shorter tippet does a better job than most off-the-shelf leaders in turning a big bug over at the end of a cast.

DO A LITTLE SHIMMY Countless times in clear water, I’ve watched the gentle splat of a landing bug bring a curious bass swimming over for a look. The bug sits still. So does the bass, just a few inches underneath, as if it’s waiting to see what will happen next. After what seems like an eternity—actually about 20 or 30 seconds—I give the bug a gentle twitch, just enough to wiggle its hackle and rubber legs. Most of the time, that’s enough to bring a strike.

119 DREDGE A BRONZEBACK

Don’t get stuck in a rut of always feeling the need to hop a tube bait along the bottom for smallmouths, especially when the water’s cold. Smallmouths can be sluggish, and are sometimes more interested in slurping a sculpin or crayfish off the bottom than chasing a fast-moving tube up into the water column.

Next time you’re fishing a lake with a soft sand or mud bottom, try making a long cast with a tube slightly heavier than you’d normally use.

Once the tube hits the bottom, let out an extra 30 feet of line. Keep the rod tip low to the water and let the tube drag along the bottom as the boat drifts. If there’s no wind, run the trolling motor slowly to create a drift.

As the tube bumps across the bottom, it’ll kick up sand and mud like a crayfish or sculpin and the bass will take notice. When a fish eats, don’t expect a hard slam, but rather a soft bump, then resistance as if you’re snagged.

Green, brown, and gray tubes work particularly well for dragging, as they most closely match the forage species that like to hang out in areas of soft bottom.

120 TUNE UP FOR SHALLOW BASS

If you’re fishing for bass in a shallow, weedy lake with gear more suited to deep water, you won’t have much luck. Here’s how to dial in your lure arsenal for shallow-water largemouth action.

LIGHTER WORM WEIGHTS In my tests, a 1/16-ounce weight radically outfished a 1/8-ounce version, 10 fish to 1. The bass fishing world, it seems, is thinking heavier when it should be thinking lighter. Using a 1/16- or 1/32-ounce weight lets you tease a worm across the surface of a thick weedbed to a small pocket of open water. At that point, you can stop reeling and wait as the worm wiggles slowly downward. The gradual sink rate allows bass to take a good long look at your bait. A heavier weight, on the other hand, will quickly drag the worm past and below the fish, causing a lower strike ratio.

TAMED-DOWN TUBES Similar reasoning applies when it comes to soft-plastic tubes. You’ll want to use jigheads designed so that the lures can be retrieved at shallow to mid-depths.

NON-JIGGED JIGS So-called swimming jigs are another example of a standard gravel-scratching lure being adapted for near-surface and mid-depth work. In their simplest form, these are your basic rubber-skirted bass jigs with the hook eye moved from the top of the jighead to the front. This configuration allows you to retrieve the lure straight ahead, close to the surface. Swimming jigheads also tend to be flattened on two sides, which prevents them from hanging up amid weeds. Cast and crank them through and around weeds or other cover at a steady pace while holding the rod at an upward angle to keep the lure moving near the surface.

121 WAKE ’EM UP

We know guides who have caught 60-pound stripers, and a surprising number of lunker bass as well, by “waking” a large plug across the surface. Bass will get right in with a pack of stripers to bird-dog a baitfish school and drive it to the surface. Try using a 7½-foot baitcaster and 20-pound mono, and cast a jointed Red Fin across a tributary point, gravel bar, or hump. With the rod tip at 10 o’clock, reel just fast enough to make the tail slosh back and forth, throwing a wake across the surface. Keep your drag loose; your next strike could be anything from a 7-pound largemouth to a 40-pound striper.

122 GET MORE OUT OF YOUR FROG

SKIP IT To skip your standard light, hollow-bodied frog under overhanging cover, like boathouses and limbs, buy a package of jewelry bells or beads at a craft store and insert one or two into the lure body to add both weight and sound. Lead sinkers are too heavy and will destroy the frog’s balance.

SINK IT Plastic frogs are designed to be fished on the surface through thick vegetation. Make them even more effective by adding a 1/16- to 1/8-ounce slip sinker on the line ahead of the frog. Fish it 6 to 12 inches under the surface and and retrieve it steadily underwater so the frog’s legs create much more action. Try using 30-pound braided line and rigging the frog with a round-bend 5/0 hook to serve as a keel to prevent the frog from spinning. Use it around underwater stumps, too.

123 DO THE DOUBLE DOG

When bass begin attacking schools of baitfish in summer, target the aggressive feeders with a one-two punch combining a noisy topwater lure with a dying baitfish imitation created with a tube bait. Using two lures on a three-way swivel, this twist on the old walk-the-dog technique has both attention-grabbing commotion and “match-the-hatch” realism.

Look for signs of bass feeding on baitfish: swirls, shad jumping at the surface, or big schools of suspended fish on your depthfinder. Make a long cast to your target, using a walk-the-dog retrieve to zigzag the lures across the surface. It should look like the big walking bait is chasing the little shad-imitating tube.

Bass may be reluctant to hit the noisy topwater lure, but it gets their attention. Frequently, fish that don’t pound the walking bait will follow it or make a halfhearted strike. When that happens, stop your retrieve. The tube flutters down like a dying baitfish, and bass jump at it.

124 STRIKE IN THE NIGHT

Big bass lose their wariness once the lights go out, and if your lake is under pressure during the day, topwater action can be stellar after dark. The two most productive nighttime bass lures are black buzzbaits and jitterbugs, but since you won’t see the strike, you can’t just swing away when you hear the hit. Here’s how it’s done.

RESIST THE SET It’s dark, so when you hear the strike, you won’t know if the fish just knocked the lure or pulled it under. Despite what your instincts tell you, don’t set. Do absolutely nothing for a moment.

BE SURE Reel just enough to pick up any slack. Then wait for the rod to load. If the fish drops the lure and you rear back, you’ll have hooks flying at your face. Make sure you feel the fish first.

TAKE IT SLOW Sweep the rod up slowly. The bass has had time to “walk away” with the lure and apply pressure against the line, so there’s no need to swing with all your might.

125 MAKE THE PERFECT PITCH

Pitching is an underhand baitcasting skill that’s perfect for delivering bass jigs or weighted creature baits in heavy cover. It’s effective from about 10 to 50 feet. You can make a pitch while standing on a boat deck, and you can practice indoors with a hookless casting weight because extremes of force and distance aren’t required.

THE SETUP Heavy-cover fishing requires strong line—20- to 25-pound-test mono (1). Start with a ¾- to 1-ounce lure in your non-casting hand, about even with the reel. While keeping slight tension on the line with your off-hand, put the reel in free-spool and press your casting thumb against the spool to prevent any movement.

THE SWING Hold the rod at waist level, extended straight out in front of you (2). Your casting-arm elbow should be bent and relaxed. Let go of the lure to start a pendulum-like swing. As the lure swings, raise the rod upward and outward by about a foot. Release thumb pressure on the spool so the lure flies with a low trajectory. If it lands right in front of you, you released the spool too soon. A high-flying lure means you let go too late.

THE LANDING As the lure reaches the target, thumb the spool to slow its flight and lower the rod slightly so the bait hits the water with a gentle blip (3). Remember that you’re swinging the lure to make this cast, not throwing it.

126 HUNT DOWN LARGEMOUTHS IN FALLING WATERS

In late spring, water levels on many lakes start to fall as spring runoff runs its course. Bass that had moved into normally shallow areas (to take advantage of new feeding opportunities caused by rising water levels) drop back deeper, and you need to follow. Key targets are the edges of partially (or wholly) submerged brushy areas, and adjacent depths. Here’s the gear and strategy you need in order to catch bass deep.

THE LURES You have two choices—crankbaits and Carolina-rigged plastic worms. Since you want to cover water quickly to find where the bass have gone, try large-lipped crankbaits, which will dive 6 to 8 feet (some can get down to 10 to 12 feet). As for plastics, you can’t go wrong with worms, but use a bullet sinker heavy enough to reach the bass.

THE TACKLE For crankbaits, try a 7-foot casting outfit with a 5:1 reel ratio. The slower gear ratio lets you keep the lure in the water as long as possible. For the Carolina rig, a medium-heavy 7-foot rod works best. In this case, use a faster reel with a 7:1 ratio loaded with braided line rather than mono. This combo helps keep slack out of the line, which is vital to detecting the subtle strikes that often come with worms.

THE PRESENTATION Because the water should be clearing as well as dropping, position the boat a little farther out to avoid spooking fish. Your first casts should be to brush that remains partly submerged. Fish the cover thoroughly and then gradually move to deeper water until you find bass.

127 WORK A WORM IN REVERSE

Instead of a standard Texas-rigged worm presentation, take a 4½-inch french fry (stick worm) and insert a 1/32-ounce nail weight, the kind normally used with soft jerkbaits, in its tail. Then rig the worm on an offset hook, cast around likely cover, let it settle to the bottom, and retrieve with light twitches of the rod tip. When you pop the worm off the bottom and drop it, the nail in the tail actually makes the bait move away from you as it glides back down, much the way a live crayfish backs up when it’s frightened.

128 CATCH BASS IN THE COLD

Bass suspending in hyper-chilled water are extremely lethargic and often won’t strike a moving lure. But dangling a small hair jig resembling a tiny minnow in front of their noses for a long time often gets them to open up. Position the jig 8 to 12 feet under a bobber and present it on a whippy 8-foot spinning outfit spooled with 4-pound line. Cast to a steep rock bank and allow the jig to sink. In choppy water, hold the rod still; waves will give the jig action. If it’s calm, jiggle the rod tip slightly, pause, and repeat.

129 DO SOME HEAVY LIFTING

Many anglers use tiny finesse baits in deep, clear bass lakes. Instead, try large, heavy baits to trigger violent strikes. Here are two favorites of the bass pros. Fish them on a medium-heavy baitcaster.

DOUBLE-HOOK SPOON Tie on a ½-ounce slab spoon in white, gold, or silver, and drop it all the way to the bottom. Fish the spoon vertically with 1- to 2-foot jumps that let it pound the bottom when it touches down. It may seem overly aggressive, but the hits will be violent.

FOOTBALL JIG Try a ¾-ounce peanut-butter-and-jelly football jig dressed with a 4-inch trailer in cinnamon–purple jelly. Cast the jig out and let it drop to bass suspended 30 to 40 feet deep before swimming it through the area. You can also try bouncing the jig over deep lake points.

130 KNOW YOUR: LARGEMOUTH BASS

The largemouth bass is, without question, the No. 1 most sought-after gamefish species in the United States. That’s because these fish adapt to and thrive in almost any climate. Whether you live in the northern reaches of Maine or the southernmost point in Texas, guaranteed there is a tiny pond, river, creek, or giant lake nearby that holds largemouths. What also makes these fish so appealing is that an angler fishing from the bank with a live minnow and a bobber has as much chance of catching a trophy as the fisherman with a new bass boat and an arsenal of the hottest new lures. Ten pounds is considered a lifetime achievement for most bass anglers, but this species grows much larger, with a 22-pound, 4-ounce monster caught in Japan in 2009 standing as the current world record.

131 SHRINK YOUR JIG

In clear water, a standard jig-and-pig is as subtle as a fat guy in a Hawaiian shirt. Smart pro anglers are instead downsizing their jigs for spooky bass. Rigged with a small pork or plastic chunk, smaller jigs are a ringer for a live crayfish. These diminutive lures are especially deadly during spring in clear, rocky lakes, when bass are feeding on crayfish emerging from their winter hibernation. Flip them around boat docks and let them sink slowly.

132 BUZZ A GRUB

Everybody fishes plastic grubs, but only a handful of pros have recognized how effective these short plastic worms can be when they’re fished in the style of topwater buzzbaits. Choose a grub with a strong swimming tail so that a fast retrieve really stirs up the water when pulled across the surface. Rig it weedless on a jighead as light as 1/8 ounce. You can fish it anywhere, especially through shallow weedbeds. Also, when you stop reeling, the lure will sink, and you can keep working it like a mid-depth crankbait or even on the bottom like a jig or plastic worm, all on the same cast.

133 FINE-TUNE A CAROLINA RIG

Most experienced anglers rely heavily on the standard Carolina rig: a ½- to 1-ounce sliding sinker, a swivel, an 18- to 24-inch leader of 12- to 20-pound mono, and a twist-tail worm or lizard with a rattle insert impaled on a light-wire offset or wide-gap worm hook. With some modifications, this classic can be improved. Be willing to experiment. Keep modifying the basic presentation until the fish start biting.

DOWNSIZE IT If a 6- to 8-inch lizard or worm fails to garner any attention, try a smaller, less-active lure, such as a small tube bait or stick worm. Also, switch to a leader of 8- or even 6-pound-test.

MOW THE LAWN By early summer, aquatic weeds may be growing several feet off the bottom, necessitating a longer-than-normal leader. When you first pull up on a point or hump, use a diving crankbait to snag some grass so you can determine its length. Then make your leader 6 inches to a foot longer than the vegetation, so your lure floats above the grassline. You can also switch to braided line for the leader and use a smaller hook.

BLEND IN In spring, when the water is apt to be murky due to runoff, most anglers choose chartreuse or hot-orange soft plastics. But bright-colored baits can turn cold in early summer. In this case, switch to natural colors like pearl or translucent green.

LOSE THE RATTLE When bass seem finicky, try leaving the rattle insert out of your worm or lizard.

134 PUT A DIFFERENT SPIN ON IT

Spinnerbaits may be the most versatile bass lures of spring and early summer. Here are three techniques and modifications that the pros rely on to get the most out of a spinnerbait.

VARY THE RETRIEVE Never cast and retrieve a spinnerbait without changing your speed and direction. Raise the rod tip slightly as you’re reeling—to make the lure climb—then lower it and stop reeling, which lets the spinnerbait fall slightly. Strikes come as the blades make that change, most often just as the lure starts falling. Even a rise and fall over a few inches can make a difference.

CREATE A NEW LOOK The three basic blade types are willowleaf, Indiana, and Colorado. In general, the slim profile of the willowleaf is designed to perform best at high speeds, which allow it to deliver a lot of flash. The rounder Colorado spins slowly and doesn’t put out as much flash. The blade in the middle—the Indiana—is a compromise design that works best when retrieved at moderate speeds. If bass are hitting well but consistently missing the lures, change blade color (say, from silver to gold) before changing the type. To provide a completely different look, remove the spinnerbait skirt and replace it with a soft-plastic worm, a grub, or even a tube lure. Retrieve the lure just as you would one with a regular skirt.

RIP FOR BIG BASS Let the spinnerbait fall to the bottom in slightly deeper water and rip it up with a few fast cranks. Then stop reeling and let it fall back to the bottom. Repeat this for the entire retrieve. Ripping a spinnerbait often brings reflex strikes from heavier fish that may have been watching the lure on the bottom.

135 THAW OUT A TROUT

In early spring, when ice is melting, ponds and small lakes are great places to fish. And, with oxygen confined to the surface layer, most prey is in depths of less than 10 feet. Trout are rarely far away. The most effective tactic may be to fish from the bank when so many trout are within easy casting range. Start early, because the period during and just after ice-out can be absolutely hot. It’s essential that you cast in the right places. This illustration shows you where.

1. CREEKS Rainbows, cutthroats, and baitfish stage off creek mouths prior to spring spawning. Hit these spots with streamers, spinners, salmon eggs, or egg flies. Fish may also move into creek outlets if they find spawning habitat, so try the first quarter mile of the creek, too.

2. CREEK CHANNELs In stream-fed, man-made still waters, look for creek channels cutting through shallow flats. The deeper water offers trout a natural ambush point. Hang bait in the middle or ply the edges with streamers, Woolly Buggers, or spinners.

3. WEEDBEDS Aquatic vegetation dies back in winter, depriving insects of cover and exposing them to trout. Work dragonfly nymph patterns just above the dead weeds, or bottom-fish with waxworms and hellgrammites. You can find the beefy grubs for bait underneath woody debris.

4. DEADFALLS AND TIMBER Downed wood is a magnet for insects, trout, and bait (such as minnows and nightcrawlers). Fish it with shallow-running stickbaits or a Woolly Bugger on the fly rod.

5. SHALLOW BAYS The first areas to warm up in the early spring, skinny-water bays can be prospected with leech streamers or weighted nymphs. Stay on the lookout for cruising trout and intercept them by casting well ahead of their line of travel.

6. MUDFLATS Bloodworms and bright-red midge larvae inhabit the soft, silty bottoms on the flats. Rig a small San Juan Worm under an indicator or a live redworm under a bobber, riding it just off the bottom. Cast and let it drift with the wind.

7. NEW GROWTH From shore, cast out into open water past the new growth of reeds or rushes. Use a strip-and-pause retrieve with a damsel nymph, gold-ribbed hare’s ear, Prince nymph, or leech streamer on the the fly rod.

8. BARS AND MIDWATER SHOALS Work these areas by casting to the shallow water and retrieving into the deep water. Try a fly pattern like a midge larva or pupa, allowing it to sink to the bottom on a 12- to 14-foot leader and working it back glacially slow.

9. ICE SHEETS As the thaw begins, look for open water between ice sheets and the shoreline, particularly in shallows adjacent to deep water. Some anglers cast baitfish imitations onto the ice shelf, then drag them into the water and begin their retrieve.

136 BEAT A CUTBANK GOLIATH

Big trout love to hide under cutbanks, waiting to ambush baitfish that swim by. The best way to entice a strike is with an oversize fly that forces them to strike out of a territorial impulse. The wrinkle? Heavy tippets will spook these fish. You’ll need to downsize to a 4X tippet but use the largest fly you can handle.

The traditional advice is to use black in stained water and light colors in clear water, but I’ve had better results with darker flies. Woolly Buggers and Zonkers are effective, as are egg-sucking leeches. A 9-foot, 5- to 6-weight rod works well. Load it with a weight-forward floating line, and don’t go with a cheap reel with an indifferent drag.

Casting oversize flies on light tippets can feel like you’re casting a bowling ball. The key is to mend the line immediately to reduce drag and then make sure there’s no excess slack as you drift the fly through the line. When you get it right, hold on—the strike will be like a jolt from Jove. You won’t be able to manhandle this fish, either, so get it on the reel and let the drag do the work.

Since many cutbank fish head for an obstacle, expect a lot of break-offs. It’s just part of the game.

137 SPOT AND STALK TROUT

The secret to catching big wild trout often comes down to identifying a single target and then dissecting the fish’s feeding rhythm. This kind of fishing requires patience and stealth. Here’s how.

STALK INTO POSITION On broken pocket water, the rippled surface allows a closer approach (A). Cast from straight downstream to keep your line out of mixed currents, but beware of small “lookout” trout (B) that will spook into the head of the pool. If you’re fishing slick pools or spring creeks, don’t push too close. Anglers casting wet flies should post across and slightly upstream (C) of the fish for drifts that keep the leader, tippet, and any split shot outside the trout’s view.

MATCH THE RHYTHM Does your trout rise to every morsel of food, or every few seconds, or every few drifting insects? Does the fish prefer prey off to one side or directly in front of its snout? Does it slurp up a mouthful of spinners or sip in singles? Pay attention to these patterns and factor them into your presentation.

CALCULATE THE ANGLES Count down the cast, and put the fly 2 feet in front of the fish. A tighter cast will spook it. A longer cast could require too much mending to stay drag free. If you mess up, resist the temptation to fire out a quick cast to cover up your mistake. Give the fish time to settle.

138 USE COPPER TO GO DEEP

In its simplest form, pulling copper for lake trout means hand-lining wire wrapped around a board. That’s how old-timers did it; a few still do, only now with rods and reels. Here’s a great modern approach for bottom-dwelling lakers.

If you have electronics, use them to locate fish, structure, or schools of bait. Then let out enough copper line to get your spoon on the bottom. How much line depends on how fast you’re trolling. At around 2.7 mph, you’ll get a depth of 22 feet for every 100 feet of line.

As you troll, face the bow, cradle the rod in your lap, and grab the line in your hand about 4 feet from the rod tip. You should feel your lure occasionally ticking on the bottom as well as feel its wobbling action through the line.

Repeatedly sweep your arm forward to make the spoon rise off the bottom and then flutter back down. Basically, you’re jigging as you troll.

You’ll usually feel a couple of good tugs when a trout takes. Shoot your arm forward to set the hook. Then grab your rod and bring him in.

139 PERFECT THE PARACHUTE CAST

The biggest trout hold in deep water, a situation that calls for heavily weighted flies. But simply adding more lead can be self-defeating. Heavy nymphs and streamers act unnaturally underwater, which can deter strikes. You need to get deep with as little weight as possible. To do this, use the parachute cast, which produces enough slack to let the fly sink unhindered by drag—only a small amount of lead will be needed to reach even the deepest fish.

STEP 1 Make a standard overhead cast, aiming for a point about 10 feet above the water.

STEP 2 Stop your forward stroke around the 12 o’clock position.

STEP 3 As the line passes overhead, snap the rod forward to the 10 o’clock position.

STEP 4 Instead of straightening out, the fly line will hinge toward the water, dropping or “parachuting” the fly and leader vertically onto the surface.

140 MASTER THE MEND

The key to the perfect drift is mending your line: basically, keeping your fly line upstream of your dry fly (or strike indicator when you are nymph fishing). Once the fly line gets downstream of the fly or indicator, it will grab the current and cause the fly to drag. Usually that’s game over, and you lose.

An ideal “mend” involves lifting the fly line from downstream and placing it upstream, without moving the fly or strike indicator. The most common mistake, even among people who understand the importance of mending, is getting herky-jerky and trying to whip the line with the rod from chest level. Wiggling your flies around for the sake of mending defeats the entire purpose.

Fly rods are long for a reason. When you start the mend, lift the rod tip just high enough to pick the fly line off the water, but not so high that you disturb the leader (1). Next, with your rod tip straight up, swing it across your face from downstream to upstream (2). Then gently lay down your line to the upstream side of your fly or indicator (3). Sometimes, in faster water, you might want to “kick” that rod over with more force.

141 SHOOT THE BREEZE

Any flyfisherman can cast well on a calm day. It’s how you deal with wind that separates the men from the boys. Here are three tips that can help you shoot the breeze with ease.

TRY SKITTERING Insects hovering just above the surface are trout magnets, and wind coming from behind can be used to skitter a fly. Make a downwind cast. Hold the rod nearly straight up (A) and allow the wind to move the fly around just above the water’s surface. By raising and lowering the rod, you can make the fly dance on and off the surface, just like a real insect.

VARY LOOP SIZE If the wind is coming straight at you, throw a tighter loop (B). This reduces the amount of line affected by the wind and increases the speed at which the line unrolls—both of which help the line punch through the breeze.

ADJUST THE CASTING PLANE In a crosswind, cast sidearm in order to unroll the line under the wind. If the wind is from the rod-hand side (C), you’ll need to cast across your body to keep the fly away from you. If the wind is from the off-hand side (D), all you need to do is perform a normal sidearm cast.

142 DRIFT A WET FLY WITH A DRY LEAF

Dark, gnarly undercut banks often hold the biggest trout in the stream. But getting a fly under those banks, and deep enough to prompt a strike from a monster trout, requires expert fly casting and a precise presentation, or a leaf. Here’s how to use fall foliage to float your fly into perfect position.

STEP 1 Hook a weighted streamer or nymph fly to the outer edge of a dry, buoyant tree leaf.

STEP 2 Carefully sneak 10 yards upstream to a position above the undercut bank you’re looking to target. Strip off a few feet of line and ease the unconventional rig into the current.

STEP 3 Pay out line as the leaf drifts to the target area. As it approaches to within 2 to 3 feet of the hole, give the line a sharp snap back with your line hand to rip the fly from the leaf. Your weighted streamer will drop into the current, which will carry the fly under the bank and down to your target trout.

143 FLY IN THE COLD

Trout feeding patterns change when temperatures drop and insect life cycles slow down, so you’ll have to alter your tactics a bit. One of these three approaches should coax a few fish from their icy lies.

SMALL AND SLIM (A) On most winter trout streams, tiny mosquito-like midges are the most active and available food form. Standard midge pupa patterns—such as Brassies and Serendipities—can be effective. So can slim-bodied nymphs, such as the Flashback Pheasant Tail. But size is often more important than the specific fly. Think small, and go for patterns in sizes 18 to 22 on 5X to 7X tippets.

HIGH AND DRY (B) Low, clear winter water can make those occasional rising fish ultra-cautious. A size 18 or 20 Parachute Adams or Parachute Black Gnat, or a Griffith’s Gnat in sizes 18 to 22, will cover a hatch of midges or, on some rivers, blue-wing olive mayflies. Keep a low profile and use long, fine leaders.

BIG AND GAUDY (C) If the microflies aren’t bringing them in, you might want to try the other extreme and go large—leeches and streamers up to size 4 or so. I hooked my largest winter trout on an ordinary No. 8 black Woolly Bugger. Fish near the bottom and dead-drift with occasional short twitches.

144 DREDGE A FALL STEELIE

Fall steelhead anglers typically cover water with cross-stream casts until a fish hits. Instead, try putting the fly right in front of the fish from directly downstream.

GETTING DOWN Pattern choice matters, but presentation is the real key. You need to put the nymph 4 to 8 inches above bottom, which means adding weight to your line. An unweighted fly moves more naturally than a weighted one, so try a slinky weight attached to the leader butt. The setup lets you easily change the weight as river conditions dictate.

DEAD-DRIFTing When water temperatures dip below 50 degrees, dead-drift a nymph on a 9½-foot (or longer) 7- or 8-weight rod with a small-diameter shooting line (A) rather than a traditional weight-forward floating fly line. The small line allows for quieter entry of the flies on the cast (no line slap to spook fish) and offers less resistance in the water, which makes it easier to get a drag-free drift. Don’t false cast. Simply pick up the line and shoot it directly upstream (B). Casting with the added weight is smooth and effortless. This is a great way to work a tree-choked stream that routinely snags back casts.

As a go-to rig, pros recommend an 8- to 10-foot butt section that ends with a bead and barrel swivel (C). A slinky weight slides freely on the butt section via a snap. To the swivel, tie on a 3- to 6-foot leader; onto this, knot a chartreuse caddis nymph. Run 17 to 24 inches of line from the eye of this fly, then attach a stone-fly nymph. The long, light tippet offers little water resistance and sinks quickly.

145 MULTI-CRANK FOR CRAPPIES

Alabama fishing guide Brad Whitehead will try anything to keep his clients flush with crappies when he takes them out on Lake Wilson. His latest innovation is using a spider-rig setup, typically employed for jigs and minnows, to pull crankbaits. This lets him run a bunch of lures at the same time, which equals more fish in the boat. All you need to do is reel them in.

TROLLING Troll between 1 and 2 mph in a zigzag pattern with a bow-mounted electric trolling motor (A). This speed lets the crankbaits dive and wiggle under the boat.

RODS Use four 13-foot fast-action crappie trolling rods for the crankbaits (B). Set them up in rod holders spread across the boat’s bow. You can use a traditional crappie reel or any small conventional reel.

CRANKBAITS Use crankbaits in the 2- to 3-inch range (C), such as the Bomber Fat Free Shad. The beauty of crankbaits is precision. If you want the crankbaits to follow an irregular dropoff or grassline, track the structure with your depthfinder. Since the lures swim directly beneath the boat or close to it, you’ll know they’re in the strike zone.

EXTRA WEIGHT To fish deeper than the crankbaits dive (about 6 feet), thread your line through a 3-ounce egg sinker (D), tie it off to a swivel, and add a 3-foot leader. This will let you troll as deep as 22 feet.

146 FOLLOW THE CRAPPIE HIGHWAYS

As crappies follow creek channels to spawning water, they stop at staging or rest areas. Isolated wood cover, underwater stumps along bends, and points are all good spots to find fish. The warmer the water temperature, the closer they’ll be to spawning areas.

Reservoir crappies typically winter on deep main-lake structures like river-channel dropoffs, submerged roadbeds, and offshore humps. They’re often 25 to 50 feet deep. As the lake gradually warms in early spring, crappies gravitate toward shallower water, following predictable migration routes that lead to their eventual spawning areas.

This crappie migration takes place in waves rather than all at once. The initial activity occurs when a lake’s waters reach 55 to 58 degrees. “The first wave often contains the biggest fish, so it pays to monitor the water temperature closely during this period and be on those crappie highways when the slabs roll in,” says Kentucky Lake guide Gary Mason. “You’ll find most of them in the 12-foot zone, holding tight to submerged brushpiles and stumps.”

By the time the lake hits 65 degrees, expect to experience some truly awesome crappie fishing if you target this pattern. They’ll move progressively shallower as the water warms, eventually ending up in the backs of tributary arms and coves, where they spawn in stake beds and sunken brushpiles once the water reaches the low to mid 70s. But you’ll have already caught the biggest, baddest fish by then. You can leave the little ones to the batter-and-fry crowd.

147 SLIDE A GRUB

Here is a great pattern for prespawn slab crappies. You’ll want to begin at a point leading into a major tributary arm, using your graph to locate a channel or ledge with a sharp dropoff (say, 8 to 18 feet). Use marker buoys to delineate the structure and key pieces of submerged cover that you spot on the screen. Then back off the boat and cast a grub to the top of the dropoff, letting it fall down the slope on a tight line. If most of the strikes occur on top of the ledge, swim the grub just off the bottom with a slow, steady retrieve. You might not feel a bite because crappies may pick up the grub and swim toward you. If you see the line jump or lose contact with the lure, set the hook.

148 GET INTO THE GRASS

When crappies are spawning, guides recommend you concentrate on narrow bands of grass near the shoreline. The fish hold along the inside and outside edges of the greenery, with bigger fish favoring the deeper outside edge of the grass.

Your best strategy here begins with lure selection. The key is to cast a 1/16-ounce jig dressed with a curly-tailed grub over the grass to the bank. Slowly reel the grub to the inside edge and let it sink to the bottom. If that doesn’t get a strike, try pulling the jig over the vegetation and letting it sink on the outside edge.

To dupe postspawners, by contrast, you’ll want to use a 1/16- or 1/32-ounce tube. You can fish these baits on 6-pound line and an 11-foot crappie rod with a spinning reel. Easing within a rod’s length of trees standing in water 4 to 12 feet deep, or holes in milfoil beds, slowly lower the jig straight down into the water, about 6 to 10 inches. A crappie will often rise up and hit it. If that doesn’t coax a bite, you may have luck by dropping the jig down 1 foot and holding it there for another 30 seconds. Repeat this process until the jig touches bottom. Then crank the jig up and fish another tree or hole in a grassbed.

149 CATCH CRAPPIES UNDER A BRIDGE

Postspawn crappies often stack up on riprap points on either side of bridges that cross creek arms. You’ll tend to find them suspending around these points 6 to 10 feet deep in 7 to 15 feet of water.

To pick off these postspawners, expert guides suggest you try dropping a jig straight down on 8-pound-test copolymer line that runs through the guides of a 10-foot rod matched with a spinning reel. After the jig is down 6 to 10 feet, move the boat around the riprap points slowly enough for the line to remain vertical. You may well find that you start getting bites only after you stop working the jig up and down.

150 DANGLE A BUNCH OF LIVIES

When prospecting for crappies in a shallow lake, here’s an easy way to target multiple depths at the same time with live bait. Tie a 10-foot length of thin 6-pound superline to the tips of 5 to 8 crappie poles—fancy fiberglass cane poles with no reels. At the end of each length of superline, tie a snap-swivel. From each snap-swivel, tie a 6- to 8-foot length of monofilament leader, and then add a ¼- or ½-ounce bell sinker to each snap. Spread the rods out in holders positioned around the boat (A), keeping some low to the water and raising some higher, to vary the depths (B). Add a lively fathead minnow to a small hook on the end of each leader and drop each line straight overboard. You want the lines to stay as vertical as possible as you drift with the breeze or nudge it along with the trolling motor.

151 CATCH YOUR BIGGEST BLUEGILL OF THE YEAR

Anyone can catch bluegills when they’re on the bed. But you can land some of the biggest fish of your life long before the nesting season—and before the lake gets slammed with competing anglers—when the water is still chilly. Find the fish, dangle a tasty morsel inches from their noses, and wait for a bite. It’s like ice fishing on open water.

To catch these fish, you need a long cane pole or a jigging pole, some jigs, and waxworms. That, and some free time. A 1/16- to 1/32-ounce jig tipped with a waxworm is the proven standard. A plain, painted ballhead jig will do, but dressed jigs with marabou, tinsel, or duck-feather skirts slow the fall rate and provide added visual attraction.

For fishing cover visible from the surface, a collapsible 12-foot jigging pole works very well. A seasoned cane pole also does the job. No reel is required, especially when you’re fishing shallower than 10 feet. When you find the right depth, just tie that amount of line to your pole, and you’re all set. You’ll snag a lot of jigs in the thick stuff, so 6-pound braided line is handy for straightening hooks and saving jigs.

To probe submerged cover right under the boat in open water, make a near 180 in your tackle choice. Rather than a long crappie pole, a short, supersensitive spinning rod with an ultralight reel is best; my favorite rod length is 5 or 6 feet. I’ve even used ice-fishing tackle to fish rock piles. Small-diameter braid is still O.K., but finicky fish, clear water, and small spinning reels prone to tangling line may require a switch to monofilament.

152 DROP IN ON SPRING ’GILLS

THE AREA When water temps reach the low to mid 50s in spring, bluegills move out of their deep-water haunts and cling to cover in mid-depth waters (7 to 10 feet) near favored spawning grounds. Head back to where your favorite summertime bluegill beds are, find the closest area of deep water, and search for nearby cover in those depths. That’s likely where the bluegills will be. Experimenting with different depths is the key.

THE COVER Bluegills live their entire lives in fear of being eaten by something else, so think cover when fishing for them anytime outside the spawn. This could be weeds, brushpiles, dormant lily pads, submerged rock piles, a boat dock, or pier pilings. So long as it provides adequate cover at the right depth, bluegills will gravitate toward it.

THE APPROACH The combination of heavy cover, deep water, and sluggish fish that feed by sight begs for vertical jigging. To fish cover that’s visible from the surface, you need to stay several feet away from your target and make a slow, controlled drop with the cane pole. Alternately, you can get right on top of submerged cover in open water and fish it vertically with the short spinning rod.

THE TECHNIQUE Ease the jig into the water and slowly lower it, keeping the line taut. Bluegills may hold at any depth alongside the cover, and they often hit as the jig is falling. When you get a bite, note how deep you’ve lowered your jig; the next bite will likely be around the same depth. Tighten the line to set the hook at even the slightest peck.

153 TAG-TEAM WINTER PERCH

Jumbo winter perch tend to travel in pods numbering anywhere from a couple of fish to a dozen or so and tend to enter and exit the scene in a burst. These dine-and-dash fish call for certain tools and tactics. Try this “firefighting” technique with a partner—as one of you unhooks, the other instantly fires back down the hole to pick off another fish. Instead of nabbing one or two jumbos, you can catch several in a few minutes of fast action.

GO DEEP Deeper than 15 feet, you really need a lure that will get down fast (A). Opt for a heavier metal jig that’s slim and hydrodynamic. If you want to tip it with bait, waxworms are a good choice since they don’t resist water like a minnow.

WORK THE SHALLOWS In water less than 15 feet deep, use an aggressive flash spoon and something that gets up and down in a hurry but also sparkles enough to hold fish and draw other transient pods (B). Spoons that bear holographic decals work especially well.

MOVE QUICKLY Tag-teaming perch works best on big fish that advance with zeal but are sure to vanish, and it’s effective both shallow and deep. The key is to get the second bait down as soon as the first fisherman reels up (C). Look for eat-and-run perch behavior particularly during peak feeding hours, like dusk and midmorning.

154 TAKE A SHOT IN THE DOCK

This slingshot technique sends a light jig into tight spaces—under a dock, overhanging limbs, or blowdowns. Use a 5-foot spinning rod and a closed-face spinning reel, preferably with a front trigger.

STEP 1 Let out enough line so the jig hangs parallel with the bottom rod guide. Hold the jighead in your left hand between your thumb and index and middle fingers, with the hook pointing out to avoid getting snagged on the release. In your rod hand, keep your right index finger on the trigger, which unlocks the spool.

STEP 2 Lower the jig to your left side and extend your right arm out, keeping the rod angled toward the water. As your arm extends, it will create a bend in the rod. Do not create tension by pulling on the jig. Continue to bend the rod by extending your arm until the face of the tip-top guide is parallel to the water’s surface.

STEP 3 Once the rod is fully drawn, your arms should not change position. When you’re ready to aim, point the rod tip at your target spot by turning your entire upper body.

STEP 4 Release the jig and the reel trigger at the same time to shoot. If the jig goes high, you probably broke your left wrist when you let the jig go. If the jig whizzes back at your head, you fired the trigger too late. The jig should fly straight and low to the water.

155 GET POST-ICE AIR

There is often a burst of good fishing on Northern lakes about three weeks after ice-out, when the water at the surface reaches 39 degrees. At this temperature, water reaches its greatest density and sinks to the bottom, oxygenating the lake at all levels; fish throughout the lake are activated by the extra oxygen.

156 GO LONG, WIDE, AND DEEP FOR WALLEYES

In late spring to early summer, the big postspawn female walleyes are suspended in open water. To find these fish, cover as large a swath of water as you can—up to 200 feet wide, and from top to bottom. Set the shallowest baits far to the sides of your boat to avoid spooking fish feeding near the surface. This big trolling spread is as simple to rig as it is deadly on walleyes.

STEP 1 This setup requires four side-planer boards. Install three adjustable rod holders along each gunwale. The two flat-line rods lie parallel to the water at 90 degrees. The next two holders angle rods at 65 degrees. Those nearest the bow keep the rods up at 45 degrees.

STEP 2 Fish 10-pound monofilament on all six of the trolling rods except for one of two flat-line rods. Spool this one with 10-pound braided line, which has less resistance in the water and will get the crankbait on this rod running deeper than any of the others.

STEP 3 Fish the same lure on every rod. Long, slender crankbaits with large diving bills work well. In stained water, try hot pink or orange. On sunny days, use metallics, and in clear water, try white or pearl.

STEP 4 Trolling at 1.5 to 1.7 mph, set the rods closest to the bow first and work down to the stern. Reels with line counters will help you achieve your desired distance when sending the lures back. The longer the line, the deeper the baits will run. If one depth seems to be producing results consistently, reset the other lines to match that depth.

157 FISH A WEED-CUTTER RIG

Walleyes cannot resist the thump and glint of a blade whirling in tandem with a minnow, leech, or nightcrawler. Anglers commonly troll a spinner rig to present the meat-and-metal package to fish in open water. But some nonconformist pros have a different approach, actually casting the rig. Casting spinner rigs allows you to fish areas that you can’t target when trolling, such as weedbeds. On a straight retrieve, the spinner’s oscillating blade clears a path for the hook and bait. Walleyes rise from the dark and forested bottom to strike. Here’s how to tie one up.

THE TACKLE Start with a 6- to 7-foot medium to medium-heavy spinning rod (A) with fairly stiff 10-pound mono or weed-shredding superline.

THE RIG Use a snell knot to tie a No. 2 to No. 4 wide-gap hook to a 12- to 24-inch leader of 10- to 14-pound-test fluorocarbon (B). The shorter leash (trolling spinner rigs are typically 30 to 40 inches) casts smoothly, is easy to control in shallow and rough water, and permits quick hooksets. String six beads above the hook and add a No. 5 Colorado blade. Tie the free end to a barrel swivel. Slip a 1/8- to ¼-ounce pegged bullet sinker onto the main line before attaching it to the barrel swivel’s open end.

THE BAIT If you’re using a minnow, run the hook down its throat and out the back of its head. Penetrate a leech just past the sucker or go with half a nightcrawler, hooked deeply through its thicker-skinned head (C).

THE TARGET Cover a weedbed by casting into any thin spots, particularly those along and just into the outer edge, and into clearings. Bring it back straight and methodically, to about halfway through the water column. A spinner blaring through the weeds will tend to elicit a quick reaction. Fish usually hit on instinct.

158 HOOK WALLEYES IN THE HOT MONTHS

Anybody can be a hotshot walleye fisherman in the spring, when the fish swarm in shallow and tepid waters rife with baitfish. These are the glory days. Then comes summer. The sun shines longer, the water heats up, and the walleyes don’t like it. These light- and temperature-sensitive predators migrate to deeper and darker climes and open spaces, where finding them and catching them get tougher. But you can still have terrific days on the water—you just need to fish harder and smarter.

When it’s time to slather on the sunblock and don the mesh baseball cap, you might think that you should be abandoning the shallows. And that’s generally true, but not at dusk. After the heat of the day diminishes, walleyes move to the deep-water edges of weeds, some from the depths, others from inside the weedbed. Either way, they stack up here at sunset.

GET EDGY Locate the edge of the weeds by day using GPS-enabled sonar, which will let you follow it in total darkness. Or you can place marker buoys wrapped in reflective tape on crucial inside turns and points. Hit them with a flashlight to find them in the dark to troll effectively.

BE A NIGHT RIDER To cover water and trace the weedline, pull lures with the electric trolling motor or a hushed four-stroke kicker motor. Stickbaits work best. They wobble nicely at slow speeds and run in that 6- to 18-foot range where you’ll find most weedlines. Your specific situation might call for deep divers, so carry those, too. Because nighttime walleyes are often spooky, troll 60 to 100 feet behind the boat with a stiff 6- to 8-pound mono. Superlines make baits dive too fast. On a good bite, you’ll troll long into the darkness. Full and new moons can trigger supercharged action.

159 WEED OUT TROPHY WALLEYES

Many anglers consider June to be an unparalleled time for walleye fishing. The shallows teem with forage, and water temperatures range from the 60s to mid 70s, which is optimum to livable for a walleye. Weeds come up, lending

protective cover and shade, and the walleyes take notice—and residence.

Certain weeds are better than others. True broadleaf cabbage establishes in 6 to 12 feet of water over sand, gravel, and marl. Walleyes prefer thicker, forest-like stands, but if those are not an option, a fistful of plants in a pasture of single weeds can draw them in like a magnet. Coontail is another gem, with its lattice of Christmas-green whorls. In its most dynamic form, coontail grows in dense mats in 5 to 9 feet of water.

Nothing outshines the jig-and-minnow rig here. It perfectly mimics what the fish are after, and you can fish it many different ways by varying your stroke and speed. My preference is a long-shank jig with a shiner. Thread the minnow on the hook to foil short nips. Use the electric trolling motor to crawl along and pitch the jig to weed edges or into a field of short vegetation. Swim and hop it back, bumping weed stalks and the bottom. Keep your line taut and the bait in constant motion. Weed-dwelling walleyes are aggressive fish; they’ll catch up.

160 FOLLOW THE FOLIAGE

Believe it or not, there are other methods of figuring out when the fishing’s hot besides looking up Internet reports. All you have to do is take a lesson from Mother Nature. If it’s fall, for instance, and you want giant walleyes, all you have to do is figure out if your lawn needs a raking yet. According to walleye pro and guide Ross Robertson, no matter where you live in the country, the hot fall bite usually coincides with leaves falling from the trees. Around the same time leaves start fluttering down onto the yard, the air temperature is likely cold enough to lower local water temperatures to a range that kicks on walleyes’ instinct to pack on the pounds before falling leaves give way to falling snow.

161 KNOW YOUR: WALLEYE

The largest members of the perch family, walleyes can be found throughout much of the United States in everything from small ponds and rivers to neighborhood lakes. Big fish, however, are found in more abundance in large, deep bodies of water such as reservoirs, lakes with serious acreage, or major river systems. Walleyes have exceptional night vision and frequently hunt after dark, making nighttime trolling with crankbaits highly effective. If trolling isn’t your game, you can cast twitchbaits or bounce the bottom with leeches. Walleyes are also a primary target of ice fishermen because they readily strike even when the water is at its coldest. These fish have keen hearing as well as eyesight, which can make them extra-sensitive to engine noise. Pro tip: You’re mostly likely to catch the biggest fish in a given area first, as the jumbos are the first to spook.

162 FISH THE WALLEYE WEATHER REPORT

You’d never hit the water in spring or fall for walleyes without checking the weather report, so don’t skip it in summer. Look for these conditions and score more hot-season ’eyes.

WINDY A good roil hurls plankton and baitfish toward the shore, and walleyes tumble in after. Fish fast, strafing large areas with jigs, plastics, and shallow-running crankbaits. The more days of constant wind, the better the bite.

MUGGY When it’s hot and humid, look for deep offshore structures, like a rock reef that peaks at 20 or 30 feet and cascades down to 60, 70, or more. Attach a 3- to 6-foot spinner snell and a jumbo leech or large minnow to a bottom bouncer. Troll it on a short leash, keeping the rig as vertical as possible. Pound the flanks in low light and then work the base by day.

HIGH PRESSURE When the air is heavy, fish are sluggish. Go small and slow at dawn and dusk. Try a leech on a 6- to 12-foot snell with a light sliding sinker.

DROPPING PRESSURE Walleyes feed recklessly in front of foul weather, and experts will tell you that trophy fish often bite as squalls roll in. Troll fast with a bottom bouncer or a crawler and spinner on a three-way rig.

163 TEST YOUR DEEP-WATER SKILLS

To the walleye fanatic, summer’s end is the time to test deep-water skills. Grab a hydrological map and study the lake’s basin—those intimidating depths, 30 to 80 feet down. Try to locate the widest swaths of deep water. Then locate the spots where the basin bumps up against structure, such as offshore reefs or gravel bars. This is where you’ll find the walleyes.

Out on the water, identify the thermocline, the thin and volatile layer of water between the warm upper water column (epilimnion) and cool lower water column (hypolimnion). At the thermocline, temperatures drop a degree a foot. As a result, walleyes use it to find their happy place. You can detect thermoclines on most LCD graphs as funky hazes or “false bottoms” 30 to 80 feet below the surface. Thermocline graphing might reveal actual walleyes as well as baitfish.

A deep-diving crankbait is the best tool in your box. Models can push the 30-foot mark when rigged on a skinny superline. If traditional deep divers won’t get there, add a snap-weight. As their name implies, these readily attach to (and detach from) the line, providing downrigger-like service at a fraction of the cost and hassle. Snap them on the line after the lure is in motion. As a rule of thumb, let out 50 feet, attach the weight, and let out 50 more. Variations abound from there, but that’s enough info to make you dangerous. The snap-weight gets you down to about 20 or 30 feet, which is most of the necessary diving, so use shallow-running stickbaits. Engage the trolling motor at 1 to 2.5 mph, with cruise control, and keep an eye out for bucking rods.

164 USE A SLOW DEATH RIG

The Slow Death rig originated in South Dakota, and for years walleye pros tried to keep it as their little secret. Eventually, however, word got out.

This rig blends the subtlety of a Lindy rig with the efficiency of a spinner and bottom bouncer. On the uniquely shaped hook, bent into an S curve, the nightcrawler has a slow, corkscrewing action when trolled at maximum speed—0.8 to 1 mph—that walleyes can’t resist. Each hook comes tied to a 6-foot, 10-pound braided main line. Thread a nightcrawler onto the hook just past the knot and pinch it off so it extends ½ inch past the hook bend. Walleye pro Eric Olson pulls his Slow Death rigs along breaklines with two rods—one 7½-footer in a rod holder and one 6½-footer in his hand—with low-profile baitcasting reels.

165 DO A FALL MINNOW DOUBLE-TAKE

In the fall, walleyes come out of their summer funk and feed ravenously before ice-up. Here’s how to make the most of the occurrence, whether you’re fishing lakes or rivers.

RIVER FISHING Walleyes gang up in the tailwaters of dams and in deep river bends when the water chills in autumn. Pros rely on 1/8- to ⅜-ounce standup jigs to catch these fish. The jig design puts the hook in an upright position to reduce snags. The teeter-totter action of the jig imparts more movement to the bait. Use the lightest jig that maintains bottom contact and tip the hook with a 5- to 6-inch sucker minnow. Then work the jig with a slow lift-drop action. Fish the jig vertically 10 to 30 feet deep on spinning tackle and 10-pound monofilament. Drift backward with the current, and use a bow-mounted electric motor to slow the boat and keep the line vertical. When you feel a hit, lift the rod straight into the air to set.

LAKE FISHING Look for walleyes in lakes and reservoirs during mid-fall in water 25 to 45 feet deep where dropoffs of 60 feet or more are close by. Until ice-up, you’ll get good results with a basic Lindy rig—a walking sinker and a leader with a hook—with a live 4- to 7-inch chub. The Lindy rig lets you drag a bait along bottom and the sliding sinker helps you feel delicate takes. You’ll most likely need a 1-ounce weight to maintain bottom contact at these depths if there’s any wind at all. Using a bow-mounted electric motor, slowly drag the walking sinker in a zigzag course along the lip of dropoffs where you’ve marked walleyes. Once you feel a bite, let it run for as long as 20 seconds, reel up the slack, and make a sweeping hookset.

166 GO SLOW AND STEADY TO WIN A WALLEYE

One of the best methods for targeting walleyes is trolling with crankbaits and worm rigs. When walleyes are holding deep, getting the bait or lure in front of them might mean using extra weights on the line or diving planer boards. In either case, it’s often necessary to feed out more than 100 feet of line to get your offering into the zone. With that much line plus the weight of your terminal tackle, how you handle a strike is of the utmost importance. Many trollers rear back to try to set the hook when a fish hits, but walleyes have delicate mouths; the force it takes to transmit a set all the way down the line may also pull the hook out. Walleyes typically set themselves when they bite because the lure or bait has forward momentum from the pull of the boat. Just grab the rod and wind slowly and steadily after the strike. If you pause or drop the rod tip, you risk putting slack in the line and loosening the hook. You never want to pump the rod, either. It takes some getting used to, but the slow, even crank will put more trophy walleyes in the boat.

167 LAND A PIKE OR MUSKIE FROM YOUR KAYAK

The stakes are higher when you’re fishing from a kayak—after all, you can’t get much closer to your fish! Here’s how to land a toothy monster without falling overboard.

GETTING IN POSITION The key is letting the fish get tired enough to handle—but not so worn out as to prevent a healthy release. Straddling the kayak will give you leverage and better balance. Make sure that all landing tools are within reach but out of the way. Because you’re so low to the water, a net is rarely necessary. With the fish beside the boat, turn on the reel’s clicker. Keep at least a rod’s length of line out; too much line tension loads up the rod and could result in getting yourself impaled by a hook.

LANDING YOUR FISH It’s usually when you go to lift a pike or muskie that they thrash about. Keep your eye on the lure at all times. Holding the rod in one hand, grab the back of the fish’s head, just behind the gill plates. You can pin especially big fish against the kayak. Once the fish is stabilized, pop the reel out of gear and set the rod in a rod holder. Use a fish gripper to lip the fish. Slide a hand below the belly to support the fish as you lift it out of the water.

168 PACK THE PLIERS

Pike will bite through just about anything they’re offered, so watch your fingers when handling them. If the pike is under 10 pounds, you can grip it across the back of the head, behind the eye, or over the back of the gill plate. Bigger pike should be netted and subdued with a firm grip while in the net. Needle-nose pliers are a must; jaw spreads can also come in handy. Pinch down the barbs of your lures to expedite extractions.

169 HOOK A HARD-TO-CATCH TROPHY PIKE

Early autumn can be prime season for chasing trophy northern pike. Cooler water temperatures have these fish actively working the shallows, fattening themselves up for the approaching freeze. They are also notoriously sensitive and spooky, so long casts and realistic bait presentations are critical. Here’s how to catch them.

THE TACKLE Use a relatively long, 7-foot, 11-inch or 8-foot swimbait rod with a medium to fast action and a fairly flexible tip section (A). The longer rod allows you to wake baits from a distance by holding the tip high and helps you add distance to your cast. Match that with a reliable low-profile baitcasting reel.

THE RIG Large pike can get line-shy. You need a wire leader (B), but try to minimize the gaudiness of the transition from line to leader. Use 12- to 15-pound mono, and attach the leader with an albright knot instead of a swivel to reduce unnecessary hardware in the water.

THE BAIT You want a bait that sinks slowly to work different depths (C). Swimbaits can be particularly deadly in the fall. Don’t be afraid to go large, 7 inches or longer. Match colors to the predominant forage for pike.

THE TARGET Fall pike are in ambush mode and not typically cruising, so key on edges with relatively long casts: points near shallow bays, weedlines, and dropoffs (D). Let your bait sink well into the water column (about 3 feet), and then use slow, twitchy retrieves. Also look for transitions where clean water meets dirty water, and probe the clean edges.

170 RIG IT RIGHT FOR PICKY PIKE

Some anglers believe that “nervous” baitfish, such as shiners, that freak out when a predator is near are better than chubs and suckers as pike baits, but the baitfish’s accessibility to pike is more important than its species. That’s why proper rigging is key.

BOBBER RIG Near a prominent obstruction, around the mouth of a tributary, or over weeds, try using a large bobber. Rig a bait in the 6-to-12-inch range on a size 1/0 hook, with a snell-tied wire leader attached to a snap-swivel. The float should hold the bait, hooked lightly through the back, a foot or two above the weeds.

JIG-AND-MINNOW Hook a 4-inch shiner through the head, from the bottom to the top. Slowly jig up and down, lifting the lure 2 to 3 feet with each upward movement of the rod, and be ready for a strike on the fall. When a fish hits, drop the rod tip for a moment, then set the hook hard.

DRIFT RIG To cover weed edges, dropoffs, or shorelines, use a 6-inch shiner on a size 1 hook set through the lips. Match sinker weight to the speed of the drift and the depth. Start with a single light split shot and add until you hit bottom. When you get a bite, drop the rod tip, open the bail, count to 10, reel in the slack, and set the hook.

171 LURE A BIG, BAD PIKE

White, yellow, and chartreuse are great pike lure colors, probably because they resemble the belly of a struggling food fish. Try these on for size:

1. IN-LINE SPINNER In early spring, before weed growth becomes a factor, focus on covering water. Bigger spinners are a top choice here because the weight lets you cast them farther and the blades throw more flash. Retrieve the spinner steadily, just fast enough to keep it off the bottom.

2. SPOON Start by steadily and slowly reeling, just fast enough to keep the spoon wobbling. If that doesn’t produce, try a “flutter retrieve,” accomplished by imparting a jigging motion as you reel.

3. LARGE PLUG Begin with a steady retrieve. If that doesn’t work, try stop-and-start reeling. Early in the season, use a shallow runner. As waters warm up, go to a crankbait or a soft-plastic swimbait that runs in the 10-foot range.

4. JIG As the temperature in the shallows reaches 60 degrees, pike begin to set up shop along 6- to 10-foot dropoffs. These are best fished with a jig in full, 2- to 3-foot hops. Pike often take the jig as it drops.

5. SURFACE PLUG In late spring, fish topwater lures over weedbeds in the calm water of morning or late afternoon. Over the years, the combination of a slim minnow shape and propeller fuss has been most productive for me.

6. SPINNERBAIT Draw a spinnerbait past sprouting weeds and stop the retrieve for a three-count just as the bait approaches a possible hideout. Add a twist-tail or rubber-worm trailer for action and color contrast.

172 READ A PIKE BAY

Mouths of swampy creeks (A) make good starting points, but you’ll probably catch more pike in the flats just offshore. Find one where the depth is 3 to 10 feet. Pike might have traveled up the creek to spawn and will now be drifting out into the bay. These flats serve as staging spots for spawning panfish or baitfish or gathering spots for any trout (or juvenile salmon or steelhead) that may swim down following an upstream stocking.

Ice-out pike gravitate to secondary coves, areas that warm before the main bay. In fact, pike might have spawned in the marshy shallows or flooded timber (B) at the edges of such spots. Fish the flats at the mouths of these coves with in-line spinners.

Prominent shoreline structures (C)—beaver dams, flooded timbers, downed trees—always deserve at least a few casts. Work your way in, combing the flats in front with an in-line spinner.

As the spring sun warms the bay, weeds grow and pike orient to cover near dropoffs. Weedy points (D) make particularly good fishing spots, as do midbay weed shoals. Search adjacent waters with an in-line spinner, flutter-retrieve a spoon, or stop and start a spinnerbait along the edges of the weeds. If the water is calm, try your topwater lures.

Deeper weedlines (E) near access to deep water are the last spots on the spring tour. Find the 6- to 10-foot break. In general, pike over 10 pounds are the first to vacate the shallows for cooler water. This edge is the spot to try a jig-and-worm or, perhaps, to flutter-retrieve a spoon.

173 KNOW YOUR: CHAIN PICKEREL

The smallest member of the Esox family, pickerel may not reach the sizes of their cousins the northern pike and muskie, but in terms of light-tackle sport, they are ferocious predators that fight hard. Found in ponds, lakes, bogs, creeks, and rivers from Maine to Florida, and inland to Wisconsin, they are less finicky than other Esox, making them great targets for anglers of all ages. Find a shallow, reed-filled cove, a cluster of lily pads, or a submerged tree and there’s a good chance a pickerel is near. They like to ambush their prey, often hovering or hiding in one spot, waiting for the perfect moment to strike. Catching one can be as simple as casting a live minnow under a bobber to likely holding areas, or as challenging as delicately presenting a streamer and watching them wake behind the fly before attacking. Pickerel are bony and not prized as table fare, but pickled they are a popular dish in certain regions, as the pickling process dissolves most of the bones.

174 GO SHALLOW FOR POSTSPAWN MUSKIES

In early summer, postspawn muskies are ill-tempered and ravenous, prowling the shallows, looking for something to clobber. Make it your topwater lure. Here’s how:

FIND THEM First, you’re going to want to hit the shallow muck bays where the fish typically spawn. Next, target nearby points, downed trees, weed-and-rock transitions, cabbage, and sand-and-gravel shelves. Pay special attention to where the wind is blowing into cover or structure. Shut your boat motor down about 75 yards away from the structure, and use your trolling motor to sneak to within about 100 feet of your target.

FOOL THEM Make a long cast. Bring a gurgling prop bait back with a steady retrieve, holding the rod tip low. Do the same with the dog-walker, but add repeated twitches that make the lure sashay from side to side. If you see a muskie following, don’t stop the retrieve—speed it up. When the lure is about 10 feet from the boat, release the reel’s spool and make a figure L or 8. (If you’re just searching, do an L. If you’ve had a follower, do a full figure 8 or two.

LAND THEM The biggest mistake people make with topwater muskies is setting the hook too soon. Don’t react to what you see, but wait until you feel the weight of the fish. Then come up and to one side with the rod tip—hard. Your drag should be screwed down so tight that you can hardly pull line out. Once you know you have a solid hookset, back the drag off to let the fish run. Then take your time and use a good muskie net to land your trophy.

175 STRIKE QUICK TO GET THAT MUSKIE

Most muskie hunters who send out live suckers are familiar with the quick-strike rig. This bait harness features two treble hooks connected by bite-proof steel wire. One hook is rigged in the bait’s head, and the other is near the tail to thwart short strikes. The only problem with the traditional quick-strike is that it doesn’t do much to promote catch-and-release. That’s easily fixed with a tiny rubber band and a flip of the bait. Rather than rig a sucker headfirst, plant one point of the lead hook in the tail. Then, using a rigging needle, thread a small rubber band through the bait’s nostrils to create an anchor point for the second hook. Muskies often attack headfirst, and with the treble seated in the rubber band, it can quickly break free upon the hookset, increasing the odds that the fish won’t swallow the sucker and all that hardware. Not only will this help keep the muskie hooked just inside the mouth, but it will reduce the odds of the second hook’s snagging its face or gills, which can hinder a quick release.

176 DOG A MUSKIE

Before the Bull Dawg hit the scene in 1993, soft-plastic lures were not considered choice muskie baits. The Dawg changed that, earning a cult-like following for its productivity, versatility, and a tough material that’s capable of withstanding many strikes. Whether it is slow-crawled over the weeds, burned just subsurface, or jigged around structure, the nose-down falling orientation and high-vibration tail of this big-baitfish imitator turns trophy muskie heads with amazing consistency.

177 GET LUCKY WITH A DUCKY

Lures that imitate baby ducks have been around for a while, and though many anglers rope them into the gimmick category, it’s a fact that big muskies feast on tiny ducklings. And even though serious muskie hunters seem to shy away from such lures, most will admit they’d love to catch a bruiser on one of these bobbing babies. Duckling lures will never replace gliders, bucktails, or jerkbaits in the muskie arsenal, but they still deserve space in your tackle box because these mini-fowl can be surprisingly effective. Here’s how to use them to your best advantage:

PICK A STICK You’ll want a shorter conventional rod that will force you to make shorter strokes and is stiff enough to deliver a clunky duckling but still soft enough to let you finesse it across the surface. Use it with a reel spooled with 50-pound braid.

QUACK ATTACK The secret to your attack is to work a floating duckling lure with subtle sweeps of the rod tip to make it track side to side. Ducklings don’t swim in a straight line.

SET SOME DECOYS Can’t find real ducklings in the area? Pick up some classic rubber-ducky toys, wrap them in mono with weights tied off to the ends, and toss them out as dekes. Cast your lure on the outside of the flock to make it look like the straggler. Will this actually work? I have no idea. But it sure sounds like fun to try.

178 MESMERIZE A MUSKIE WITH A FIGURE 8

The muskie carries a fearsome reputation for fickleness. The way to overcome this tendency is to finish every retrieve with the figure 8. Essentially, the figure 8 is a final enticement performed by the angler just before lifting the lure out of the water for another cast. To help visualize the concept, think of a roller coaster. As you move the lure from side to side, it also moves up and down. That 3-D action can really turn on a fish.

STEP 1 Cast and retrieve as usual, until there are 18 inches of line between the lure and the rod tip.

STEP 2 Dip the rod tip 6 inches into the water.

STEP 3 Draw a complete figure 8. The directional change can incite a reluctant muskie to strike.

STEP 4 Keep in mind that a big muskie can come from below the lure, so you won’t see the fish until it strikes.

179 MAKE AN L-TURN

Many muskie anglers believe making a figure 8 at the side of the boat after every retrieve is a must. Others believe a figure 8 is useful only when you’re certain there’s a muskie following the lure. Some also believe a figure 8 can turn a following muskie off because the lure changes direction too suddenly. Those that aren’t sold on the classic figure 8 lean on the L turn. It’s less tiring, and in some cases can keep a muskie that hasn’t committed to a strike interested longer.

Retrieving with the rod held low to the water (A), wait until you’ve got 12 to 15 inches of line left between the lure and the rod tip (B). Nice and slowly, simply sweep the rod to the left or right along the side of the boat, making a long drag (C). If a muskie is following, it’s likely to grab on.

180 FLIP A MUSKIE THE BIRD

Start by scouting local waters and observing where ducks and their babies hang out most. Look in shallow bays and coves with an average depth of 10 feet or less. Areas with timber or reeds that protrude above the surface are ideal, as the structure provides shelter for the birds.

The real trick to making a duckling lure look natural in the water is to make it behave like a baby bird that got separated from the family—which often happens on very windy days—and is frantically trying to find its mother. Achieving that action all comes down to some crafty, calculated rod work. Real baby ducks don’t move in a straight line, and muskies know this.

To take advantage of this fact, make a long cast, but thumb the spool before the bait lands. A live duckling weighs very little, so you want the lure to touch down with minimal splash, as would be the case with a duckling falling off a log or the bank.

Gently twitch the rod from side to side to make the lure move left and right. Don’t overwork the rod, as ducklings don’t move quickly or abruptly. After you’ve covered about 8 feet, give the lure a long pause.

Before you move the lure again, dip the rod tip in the water to pull the front of the lure downward. This makes the lure’s bob more pronounced and helps mimic how a real duckling bobs, especially in a light chop.

181 KNOW YOUR: MUSKELLUNGE

Better known as muskies, this big, bad predator fish is the largest member of the Esox family, which also includes the northern pike and the chain pickerel. Part of the appeal for dedicated muskie hunters is the skill and patience it takes to get hooked up to what’s commonly referred to as the “fish of 10,000 casts.” Muskie anglers are like a cult, and many of them have little interest in pursuing other species. Muskies can top 60 pounds, but a fish that big may eat only once every other day. Be there at the right time with the right bait or lure or strike out. When a giant muskie does decide to feed, it usually wants a big meal. Many anglers consider live suckers the No. 1 live bait, but some swear by huge spinnerbaits, crankbaits, wooden jerkbaits, and monster jigs that can measure up to 14 inches.

182 FEED THE KITTY

Trophy blue catfish relish fresh baitfish, including shad, skipjacks, and blueback herring. Use what’s common to the water you’re fishing—most anglers catch their own with Sabiki rigs or cast nets.

LIVE BAIT Where there’s little current, use a 6- to 9-inch live baitfish. Hook it through both nostrils, or up into the lower jaw and out the nose, or under the dorsal fin to keep bait lively. However, dorsal hooking lets it swim more freely, which can be an advantage in still water.

CUTBAIT This works well in current, which washes scent downstream, drawing catfish from long distances. Cut the fillets of a fresh skipjack herring into chunks.

183 USE THE RIGHT CAT RIG

You don’t need a lot of fancy gear to catch a cat. The two rigs that follow are killers. One tip for the bobber rig? Loop a tiny rubber band around the line for a bobber stop. This holds well and is easy to adjust.

BOBBER RIG Attach a bobber stop and then slide on a small bead, a 10-inch slip bobber, and a ½-ounce egg sinker. Tie to a No. 3 swivel with an 18-inch, 25-pound fluorocarbon leader and an 8/0 octopus hook.

BOTTOM RIG Thread line through enough 2-ounce egg sinkers to maintain bottom contact. Then tie off to a No. 5 barrel swivel; add a 12- to 24-inch, 50-pound fluorocarbon leader and an 8/0 octopus hook.

184 USE YOUR NOODLE

Your kids have finally outgrown the swim noodles gathering dust in the basement? Good. Here’s how to recycle those noodles for jugging catfish.

STEP 1 Cut one 5-foot pool noodle into five 1-foot sections. (You’ll be able to store five noodle-jugs upright in a 5-gallon bucket—enough to keep you plenty busy.) Wrap one end of each with three overlapping wraps of duct tape; this will protect against line cuts. Use a large darning needle or crochet hook to string a 4-foot length of stout mono (60- to 100-pound) or trotline cord through the tape wrap. Tie off one end to a washer or bead, pull it snug, and tie a three-way swivel to the other end.

STEP 2 To the swivel’s lower ring, attach a length of 20- to 40-pound mono that’s long enough to reach the bottom. Anchor the rig with sufficient weight for the current—any old chunk of iron or even something like half a brick will do. To reduce line twist while wrapping line around the noodle for storage, use a barrel swivel near the weight. To the third ring, tie in a 4-foot dropper line of 20-pound fluorocarbon and a circle hook.

STEP 3 If you fish at night, run a strip of reflective tape around the noodle on the opposite end from the line. Try a 4-ounce weight on the bottom and free-float the noodles as you monitor the action from the boat.

185 WATCH THE SPINES

There are three bullhead species—yellow, brown, and black. It’s hard for nonscientists to tell them apart, though brown bullheads tend to be larger, averaging 12 to 15 inches long and reaching 6 or 7 pounds. All of the species have three sharp, mildly venomous spines, one at the front of the dorsal fin and one on each of the two pectoral fins. To avoid injury, grab a bullhead by its jaw as you would a bass or around the body behind the dorsal spine. If you do get pricked, rub ammonia on the wound for relief.

186 CATCH A BIG CAT FROM A SMALL BOAT

It is not only possible but also fun to bring a 40-pound cat into your kayak. Here’s how:

THE SPOT Look for elevated offshore flats and creek channels that drop off into the main lake; your best results are likely to be in 18 to 25 feet of water.

THE GEAR Use a 7- to 7½-foot medium-heavy outfit with 50-pound braid and the standard catfish rig: a ¾- to 1-ounce egg sinker, bead, swivel, heavy mono leader, and 8/0 circle hook. Besides some extra tackle, cut skipjack for bait, and a stringer, that’s all you need.

THE DRIFT Try drift fishing with two rods. Cast the rigs just ahead of your position, let them sink to the bottom, and then reel in two turns of line. Keep the nose of the boat into the wind with your paddle and start drifting backward, with the rods held horizontally to the water’s surface. If the fish aren’t biting, you may be drifting too fast.

THE FIGHT Big blues hit hard, but it’s important to be patient and let the circle hook do its job. These fish may weigh two-thirds or more of what the boat weighs, so they’ll pull you around once hooked. Back your drag off once you get them near the surface—they can easily flip a kayak.

187 GET THE BLUES IN A RIVER

Hefty cats stack up in the heads, in the tails, and along the steep edges of deep pools on the outside of river bends. You may need your depthfinder to pinpoint these edges. If you’re fishing a river that’s been channelized by a lock-and-dam system, concentrate on the banks of the old river channel.

Anchor 100 feet upstream of a pool. Slip the boat downstream to the head and cast bottom rigs with cutbait, positioning one on the shallow side of the drop and the other on the deeper side. Put your rods in holders. If you don’t get any takers in 20 minutes, slip the boat another

188 GO BULLISH ON BULLHEADS

These small catfish are usually easy to catch and also make for superb eating, which accounts for their huge popularity, especially in the Midwest. Rigging for bullheads is simple. Cover a size 4 to 1/0 hook tied to 6- to 8-pound-test monofilament with a gob of small worms or a single nightcrawler. Add enough split shot about 18 inches above the hook to give adequate casting weight. Because bullheads are most active after dark, the action should increase after the sun goes down. Prop the rod in a forked stick and pay attention to your tackle so it doesn’t get dragged in by a night-biting fish.

Bullheads have extraordinary senses of smell and taste, and those can help you catch them. Here’s one way:

STEP 1 When you make your first cast into a bullhead pond, you’ll want to toss your line out at about a 60-degree angle to shore and then reel your weighted worm back slowly along the bottom.

STEP 2 Walk about 30 feet along the shoreline and make another angled cast on a trajectory that would intersect your first, creating an imaginary X out in the water. Drag your worm back slowly once again.

STEP 3 Cast your bait to the X-spot intersection, sit down, and watch your line. The scent trails that you’ve created should lead bullheads to your worm more quickly. I’ve caught plenty of them by doing this, whenever bottom snags or weeds don’t interfere.

189 CATCH A RESERVOIR CAT

The blue catfish, weighing in at 30 to 40 pounds, can meet your monster-fish needs. Here’s how to fish a reservoir and land a trophy that will bring tears to the eyes of any pro:

BOTTOM FEEDING This technique works well on a shallow flat that maintains a depth of 6 to 8 feet for 50 yards or more offshore before dropping sharply down to a creek or river channel. The biggest cats hover at the lip of the drop. Anchor your boat from the bow about 60 feet upwind of your target area and cast bottom rigs out over the transom. Set the rods in holders, put the reels in free spool, flip on the clickers, and wait. The bite is hottest when the wind blows baitfish up onto the flat.

SUSPENDED ANIMATION Mark suspended catfish with a depthfinder. (At 20- to 35-foot depths, they often hold 5 to 10 feet off the bottom.) Next, set your slip bobbers to keep the live baits 1 to 2 feet above the blues. Put your rigs out 25 to 75 yards behind the boat. Place the rods in holders and drift over the fish. If there’s little wind or current, use the electric trolling motor to get your bobbers the proper distance away from the boat. Once they hit the right distance, lock the reel and slowly cruise around the area where the fish are holding.

190 GO BOBBING FOR CATS

Channel cats often won’t hesitate to rise to a bait, so an easy-to-cast slip-bobber rig is a perfect choice for bouncing shrimp, chicken livers, or other delicacies in front of their noses. Work the rig around trees, fallen or standing, in 2 to 5 feet of water. In the morning or evening, float the rig along the edges of creek channels, making sure the bait rides 6 to 10 inches above the bottom. In high water, fish over flooded gravel roads.

FLOATS Slip bobbers come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Experiment with several types to find one that casts comfortably. You’re looking for a float that’s user friendly and highly visible—even in low light.

LINE The following components go onto the main line: a slip-bobber stop, a 2-mm plastic bead, the slip bobber, a 5-mm bead, and a small barrel swivel. Then finish your slip-bobber rig with an 18-inch braided leader, a No. 4 split shot, and a 1/0 circle hook.

BAIT Your first choice of bait should be a 3- to 4-inch cull or bait shrimp; the second is cutbait, such as shad, carp, or sucker. Paste-style stinkbaits can also produce strikes—especially in late summer’s heat. And be sure to juice up your bait's with your favorite choice of liquid attractant.

191 SKIN A CAT

Here’s an old-school way to skin an eating-size cat—say, 4 pounds or less.

SCORE IT Place a 3-foot-long 2×6 board on a level, waist-high surface. A truck tailgate works well. Using a knife, score the skin all the way around the head, just in front of the cat’s gill plates. Make another slit down the back.

NAIL IT Drive a 16-penny nail through the fish’s skull to secure it to the board. Cut off its dorsal fin. Brace the board against your waist, with the tail pointing toward you. Grasp the skin with fish-skinning pliers and pull it down to the tail and off.

GUT IT Remove the fish from the board. Grasping the head in one hand and the body in the other, bend the head sharply downward, breaking the spine. Now bend the body up and twist to separate head from body. Open the belly with your knife, remove the remaining viscera from the body cavity, and rinse well.

192 TACKLE CARP ON THE FLY

Carp have big shoulders, and their lumbering, powerful runs can seriously stress your tackle. At the same time, your fly gear still needs to be light enough to gently present a small fly and protect fairly light leaders.

Six-weight outfits will do for smaller fish in water with no obstructions. For carp in the 20-pound class or larger, a 9-foot, 8-weight rod gives the best combination of pulling power and casting delicacy. A floating weight-forward line is best, paired with a 9- to 12-foot nylon leader tapered to a 10-pound-test tippet.

Carp flies must be small and wiggly for best results. Fish them unweighted in extremely shallow water, but switch to lightly weighted or beadhead versions that will drop down in front of a carp’s nose when you’re in 2 to 4 feet of water. The colors should be drab, meaning shades of brown, olive, and tan in addition to black.

Polarized sunglasses and a broad-brimmed hat will enhance your vision substantially when you’re sight-fishing for carp. Beyond that, sneakers and blue jeans will suffice. Leave your tweed hat at home.

193 FIND THEM WHERE THEY FEED

Carp in most regions move to the shallows with the warming waters of late spring, which makes May and June prime time. Most often, they’ll be cruising the shallows, feeding on aquatic nymphs and crayfish along the bottom. These are the fish you want. Carp eat in other ways, too, and it’s sometimes possible to find them actually surface feeding in a still pond or river back waters.

An extensive hatch or spinner fall of mayflies can bring carp to the top, as can round, purple mulberries dropping into the water from overhanging bushes. Breadcrumbs tossed by kids to ducks in urban parks can also do the trick for that matter.

It basically comes down to clear water and feeding fish: Find these two prerequisites, and your chances of taking carp on the fly have improved dramatically.

194 SIGHT-CAST TO SUCKERMOUTHS

Got no respect for carp? Try stalking them in shallow water. These ugly fish are wary and smart and frequently hit 20 to 30 pounds. The key to fishing for carp in 2 to 4 feet of water is to go slow and easy. If you splash or stumble, they’ll spook. Here’s how to do it:

STEP 1 Pick a loner fish or choose just one in a group and cast in front of it.

STEP 2 Twitch the fly just a little as it sinks. Let the fly touch the bottom, and the carp will follow it down.

STEP 3 When the fish sucks up the fly, the take will be hard to feel. Hold your rod tip right down on the water and keep a straight line to the fly. That way you’ll feel a little tug when the carp eats, and you can set the hook.

195 SHOOT A CARP IN THE AIR

There are plenty of reasons why you should spend a few summer days bowfishing for silver carp. For one thing, these invasive fish have now grossly overpopulated and are systematically destroying some of our best Midwestern river fisheries. And believe it or not, they’re not bad to eat. They also grow to 40 pounds and leap 6 feet out of the water—often by the hundreds—when startled by the sound of an outboard. Who wouldn’t want to shoot at that?

GET A JUMP-START Silver carp leap at the sound of boat motors, but if you want to really get them going en masse, run your boat in shallow water—10 feet deep or less. Trim your outboard up and give it just enough gas to plow a good wake. If there are fish present, they’ll be jumping in seconds.

GET IN POSITION Stand or sit at the transom of the boat. Any bow- fishing rig will work, but a reel that allows you to retrieve arrows quickly is a good idea.

PICK YOUR SHOTS On a good run, fish will be everywhere, but wait for one to jump near the boat. When it does, hit your anchor point, track the fish over the end of the arrow, focusing on a spot just underneath it, and let fly as the fish falls back toward the water.

196 DANCE WITH A SPEY ROD

Spey casting allows you to put a fly in front of a distant fish without wearing out your arm. The easiest spey cast to learn, the double spey, is used (for a right-handed caster) when the river is flowing from left to right, called “river right,” although it can also be used on the other bank simply by reversing the hand positions. Count the cast to waltz time: Lift-2-3, sweep-2-3, loop-2-3, cast.

STEP 1 Start with the fly line straight downstream. Drop the rod tip low to the water. Point your right foot and turn your body to where you intend your fly to land. Lift the rod to head height and sweep the rod upstream in a flat plane.

STEP 2 Drop the tip toward the surface, positioning the tip of the fly line (not the leader or fly) about one rod length downstream from your position. Too much force will bring the line tip upstream from you, and it will foul itself on the forward cast. If you position the fly-line tip farther downstream, it will create too much drag to lift the line out of the water on the cast.

STEP 3 Sweep the rod back downstream on a slightly inclined plane. The line should rip off the water audibly, creating a slash of white water.

STEP 4 Sweep the rod sideways and behind you, keeping the path of the rod tip in a flat plane. In the same continuous motion, raise the rod at the back of the sweep to the one o’clock position, forming a D loop in the line behind you.

STEP 5 Begin the forward stroke by sharply pulling your lower hand tight to your chest while pushing forward with your upper hand. Stop the rod abruptly at 11 o’clock as the line unrolls forward in a tight loop. When you finish the cast, your bottom hand should be tucked under your opposite armpit.

197 ADD FLAVOR TO YOUR SALMON LURE

No angler in the know would dream of casting or trolling a banana wobbler for king salmon without first adding a sardine or anchovy belly strip. But the effectiveness of bait wrapping a lure to add scent isn’t limited to the Pacific Northwest. To wrap a lure, you’ll need a fillet knife, scissors, and self-binding clear thread.

STEP 1 Fit the bait to the plug by filleting an anchovy and then cutting it into a section that’s about three-eighths as long as the plug and two-thirds as wide. Using scissors, cut lengthwise through the strip so that it resembles a pair of pants.

STEP 2 Slide the “crotch” over the belly hook eye with the skin side down. Center the strip on the belly of the plug and secure one end of the thread by pinning it under the first few wraps. Wrap thread from front to back, working around the hook. The wraps should be taut enough to indent the flesh. Finish off at the rear with several half hitches.

STEP 3 After adding a belly strip, you may have to tune the lure by turning the eyelet to the right or left to make it run true. Belly strips stop emitting scent after 20 to 30 minutes. You can prolong their effectiveness by squeezing on a liquid attractant.

198 PICK A PICKEREL FIGHT

Even the pull of a 4-pound chain pickerel is going to be diminished if you’re pitching a large spinnerbait with a heavy baitcasting outfit. I carry a 6-foot ultralight spinning rod and reel spooled with 6-pound monofilament when I’m hunting chains in the early spring. The forgiving stretch of the mono helps keep a hook planted when a fish gets only one or two points in the outside of its mouth. I also find it absorbs the shock of a pickerel’s first blow better than braid does.

For lures, I most often opt for small stickbaits and twitchbaits. These lures shine in the shallows because they can be gently finessed to run just below the surface, whereas weighty jigs and spinners are more likely to hang in the weeds or on the bottom. Though you can splice a piece of 12- to 15-pound leader on your main line, I prefer to risk the occasional biteoff. Tying directly to the thinner mono helps me cast small lures farther and work them more effectively.

Grubs and minnows fished below a float can also be lethal on deeper flats, though the approach can rob you of the biggest early-spring pickerel thrill: watching a fish charge a twitchbait and then pause, tensely frozen in time, waiting for the lure to move again so it can pounce on it. The sight still makes my heart jump.

199 SCORE A MIDSUMMER STRIPER

The paradox of landlocked stripers is that they are big, brawling fish that can reach 60 pounds and pull like a plow horse—but they are also delicate, sensitive, and fussy. They function well in a very narrow temperature range: 55 to 65 degrees is ideal. When temperatures soar, these fish are forced to go deep to find cooler water—but the deeper they go, the less dissolved oxygen becomes available to them. This causes a slow bite at best and a striper kill at worst. To score a midsummer striper, you need to target river-run reservoirs and the churning tailraces of power dams, where the water is cool, oxygen-rich, and loaded with big baitfish.

When a lake’s temperature is in the 70s, stripers will suspend 20 to 30 feet deep off main lake points, steep rock bluffs, and submerged standing timber along cavernous river channels. They’ll bite best at sunup and sundown. Use stout baitcasting or spinning outfits to fish deep and vertical. Bait up with large gizzard shad (catch these in a cast net) or, where legal, 6- to 8-inch rainbow trout. Watch your bow-mounted sonar for suspending stripers and baitfish schools, and then lower your baits to just above the level of the fish, moving slowly around the area with your trolling motor until you contact active stripers.

200 GIVE A DAM

When summer temperatures soar, it’s time to move to the fast water found below a dam, where the temperature is frigid and the stripers get aggressive. Be there at first light, armed with beefy 7- to 8-foot baitcasting outfits with wide-spool reels sporting heavy line (30- to 40-pound mono or heavier braided line). Wolf packs of stripers will cruise shallow shoals and gravel bars at daybreak (A), hitting schools of baitfish with percussive surface strikes. Start with a big, noisy muskie prop bait, retrieving it with loud rips and tranquil pauses. As the fog burns off, switch to a quieter topwater glide bait, retrieving it slowly across the surface so the tail sashays back and forth, leaving a wake behind it. By midmorning, move to 5- to 10-foot holes adjacent to those shallow shoals and bars (B), casting a 10-inch soft jerkbait rigged with a treble stinger hook. Stripers shun bright sunlight, holding tight to undercut banks and submerged trees (C); cast the bait around these spots and skate it rapidly across the surface.

201 PULL BIG LIVE BAITS

In really hot weather, stripers will pack into the upper reaches of cold-flowing rivers. Topwaters work early and late in the day, but in the mid-afternoon a better approach is to pull big live baits—gizzard shad, skipjack herring, or rainbow trout—behind planer boards. You’ll need an aerated circular shad tank to keep your bait frisky. Use 8-foot-long medium-heavy baitcasting rods and big reels spooled with 40- to 50-pound mono or up to 30-pound braided line. Start upstream of your target and rig your bait no more than 6 to 8 feet behind the board to keep it from constantly swimming into snaggy cover. Then, proceed slowly downstream under trolling-motor power, staying just ahead of the current so the board planes toward the shoreline. When your bait gets nervous, keep calm—a 40-pounder plastering a big shad on the surface sounds like a Buick falling off a bridge.

202 WORK THE INSHORE HIT LIST

The areas in and around inlets and bay systems are prime territory for predatory gamefish. No matter where you live (unless you happen to be in the middle of a desert), these 10 spots are going to hold gamefish in your local waters.

1. BEACH TROUGH Deep troughs close to the beach are gamefish magnets. Stripers, weakfish, tarpon, redfish, and pompano are just a few species that cruise through these depressions looking for a meal. The easiest way to find troughs is to watch waves on the beach. If one breaks offshore and then flattens suddenly, it often means the wave encountered a deep spot.

2. ISLAND CUT Tidal flow that gets squeezed between small islands will generally create a deep cut as it scours out the bottom. These cuts can create tremendous ambushing spots for all kinds of gamefish, though fish such as flounder, redfish, seatrout, and snook are some of the species known to use them most frequently.

3. CHANNEL CONFLUENCE Anywhere two deep channels come together in a bay system is a great place to look for fish, particularly bottom feeders such as flounder and black drum. As the tide moves, smaller forage species skirt along channel edges; Colliding currents where channels meet can disorient them, making them easy targets for gamefish.

4. INLET RIP In inlets you’ll often notice bulges, ripples, or standing waves on the surface, especially when tidal flow is at its peak speed. These disturbances are known as rips and are caused by structure or high spots on the bottom that force moving water to push up toward the surface. Gamefish stack up on the down-current side of whatever creates the rip, waiting for food to pass overhead.

5. INLET MOUTH When the tide is rushing out of a bay system, gamefish know to patrol the mouth of an inlet for a shot at an easy meal, as baitfish, shrimp, and other forage will be getting pulled into the ocean. Everything from tarpon to stripers, tuna to grouper, will congregate here, and live baits or jigs worked near the bottom often produce best.

6. BUOYS It’s always worth making a few casts around buoys and channel markers. These man-made structures provide a current break, and gamefish like seatrout and striped bass sometimes use that break to ambush bait. In the South, tripletail are notorious for hanging near markers and buoys. Cast a live or dead shrimp to the structure, and you’ll know in short order if a tripletail is home.

7. JETTY TIP Whether the tide is pushing into an inlet or pulling out, jetty tips provide a current break where gamefish will wait for bait to get flushed past with the water flow. This is an excellent place to throw topwater lures that make lots of noise.

8. JETTY POCKET Incoming waves often scoop a deep depression along the beach right at the point where an inlet jetty meets the sand. These pockets make terrific ambush points for everything from snook to sheepshead to striped bass. Gamefish will also work together to push a school of baitfish into a pocket so the food source can’t escape.

9. TIDAL CREEK Even tidal creeks so small they are dry at low tide are worth fishing when the water’s up. Small forage species know to use tidal creeks to get out of main channels at high tide. As the water falls, redfish, seatrout, flounder, and striped bass flock to the mouths of these creeks. Cast lures up into the creek and work them back into open water.

10. SHALLOW FLAT In Southern and Gulf states, species such as redfish, bonefish, tarpon, and permit are frequently found in skinny water, where they hunt for baitfish seeking refuge in the shallows and root for crabs and shrimp in the soft bottom. In the Northeast, striped bass and weakfish also hunt sand and mudflats during certain tidal stages, especially during marine worm hatches.

203 DANCE THE JIG

Diamond jigs are one of the most simple, yet effective, lures for catching bluefish and striped bass. They’re inexpensive and mimic a wide variety of forage, from sand eels to herring. But a diamond jig requires a little more finesse than simply dropping to the bottom and moving the rod tip up and down. These three methods will get you hooked up.

TOP SPEED Blues and stripers often react best to baitfish fleeing quickly. When fish marks show up on your sounder in the middle of the water column, drop the jig all the way to the bottom and reel up as fast as you can. You don’t actually have to jig the rod at all. When fish are keyed in to fast-moving bait, the hit will be more of a slam when they strike.

YO-YO When bait schools are really thick, below the surface baitfish will be zipping in all directions, while injured baitfish flutter and fall to the bottom. To mimic a baitfish both fleeing and dying, drop to the bottom and lift the rod high into the air in a sharp stroke. As you lower the rod to jig again, quickly reel up the slack. This gives the jig a dart/fall action, and since you keep picking up slack, you’ll work the entire water column until the jig is back on the surface.

SLOW DRAG When sand eels are the primary food source available to them, bass and bluefish often hug the bottom, since this bait species burrows in the sand and mud down there. If you’re marking patches of sand eels on the bottom in any location, let your jig touch down, pay out 20 extra feet of line, and lock up the reel. Don’t jig or crank; just let the lure drag across the bottom. It’ll kick up sand or mud as it moves with the drifting boat, mimicking a fleeing sand eel. Bass and blues will slurp it right up.

204 BOB AN EEL

Live eels are one of the most effective baits for striped bass throughout their Eastern saltwater range of Maine to North Carolina. Though eels are traditionally fished weighted along the bottom, anglers in the Chesapeake Bay have perfected a different technique. Using an oversize, round slip bobber, they’ll suspend live eels at various depths throughout the water column, keeping one just off the bottom, one at midrange, and one just below the surface. Even in deeper water, a big bass will often rise to the shallowest eels, as their wiggle and dark silhouette stand out well against the back-lit surface and are irresistible to a cow striper. Though the method may have been developed in the Chesapeake, it works along any channel edge, hump, or rock pile that bass frequent.

205 RIG AN EEL FOR STRIPERS

In August 2011, Connecticut angler Greg Myerson caught an 81.8-pound striped bass that trumped the former all-tackle world-record striper by nearly 3 pounds. Myerson’s fish ate a live eel, which is arguably one of the best striper baits ever. The problem with eels is they’re expensive—about four bucks a pop. To be sure you get the maximum bang for those bucks, hook your eel through the top jaw and out one eye. This lets the bait breathe better—and lets you return any uneaten eels to the live well.

206 GET LOADED FOR STRIPERS

Diving plugs, such as Bomber Long As and Red Fins, have been staples in the surf-casting scene since they were invented. Though they produce lots of stripers out of the box, these lures are hollow, so when the wind is whipping, they can be a chore to cast. That’s why surf anglers took to “loading” such plugs, and it’s a practice that continues to put more bass on the beach even today.

STEP 1 Start by drilling a small hole in the belly of the lure.

STEP 2 Next, cut a piece of wooden dowel to about 1 ½ inches, making sure the dowel is slightly wider in diameter than the hole. Hone one end of the dowel piece to a slight point with sandpaper to create a cork.

STEP 3 Use the dowel to plug the lure. When you’re ready to fish, remove the cork to fill the plug with water, adding weight for casting while also allowing the plug to sink a little deeper. You can also drop in BBs to add weight before fishing. This also amps up the sound, as the BBs rattle.

207 GO FROM POND TO BAYOU

Redfish and largemouth bass have a lot in common. They both live in fairly shallow water that’s loaded with vegetation, they feed on a wide variety of prey, and they rely less on vision and more on sound and vibration when hunting for their next meal. With that in mind, it stands to reason that a lot of the lures designed to catch largemouth on lakes and farm ponds will put a serious hurt on redfish cruising through salty lagoons, backwaters, and marshes. Here are three bass lures you should never go on a redfish hunt without.

SPINNERBAIT These are great for redfish because their design allows them to run through weeds and grass without getting hung up, and the blade gives off flash and makes a thump reds can easily track, even when the water is murky. Since they don’t hang up easily, you can throw them into flooded reeds and marsh grass and drag them into open water. That’s important because reds often hunt close to vegetation on shorelines.

CRANKBAIT One method that works well for bass anglers is bumping a crankbait off stumps and rocks. This creates a knocking sound that gets the fish’s attention and often prompts a strike. The same technique works for redfish whenever they are orienting to hard structure, such as oyster bars or rock jetties. Depending on the water depth, a shallow- or deep-diving crankbait might be in order.

CREATURE BAIT Creature baits look like aliens, and instead of resembling any specific forage species, they are designed to look like a combination of many and simply get a bass’s attention. Because they can imitate everything from a crayfish to a lizard, they’re bass killers. Put them in saltwater and they look just like a crab or shrimp. Fished either on a jighead or a Carolina rig, these baits are deadly on reds that are grubbing the bottom.

208 LOSE THE SPIN

When anglers target large species—namely striped bass and bull redfish—in the surf, large baits and heavy weights are often in order to entice these brutes and deliver offerings to distant troughs. The problem with casting a whole menhaden head or live mullet along with a 5- to 10-ounce weight is that the rig tends to spin or “helicopter” in the air, causing tangles and hurting distance. One way surf casters have overcome this challenge is by building compact bait rigs. Whereas a common bait rig features a three-way swivel to connect the main line and hold the weight, plus a long length of leader for the hook, compact rigs use only a 3- or 4-inch length of leader tied to a single barrel swivel. Before that swivel is connected to the main line, a second barrel swivel is slid up the line. A weight clip is then connected to the sliding swivel. When cast, the weight and bait stay close together in a neat package that won’t spin, but once they hit the bottom, the free-floating swivel holding the weight allows the bait to be pulled away by the current, or by a fish when it hits.

209 BOX IN A RED

What makes redfish so appealing to anglers is not only that they grow big and fight something fierce, but they can also be sight-fished. Reds of all sizes thrive in shallow flats, back-country creeks, and marshes, making them prime targets for fly casters and light-tackle enthusiasts. However, while these fish have keen senses of smell and hearing, their eyesight is fairly poor. That means your cast has to be perfect or a cruising red might cruise right by. When you lock your sights on a red, draw an imaginary 2-foot box around its head. You want your fly, bait, or lure to land right inside that box. Too far left, right, in front, or behind, and you’re liable to miss, but if the offering is in the box, the fish is going to see the movement and strike. And though some guides might beg to differ, if your cast is spot-on, what’s tied to your line really makes little difference, because a red won’t want anything that looks like some kind of forage to escape.

210 CALL IN A MONSTER SHARK WITH D BATTERIES

All shark species have the ability to sense electromagnetic current underwater. This helps them home in on dying fish that emit a faint pulse. It’s also why some shark species swim in to investigate boats. Some tackle companies have cashed in on this ability, creating electric-powered magnets designed to draw sharks to the boat. You can get the same effect with a quick trip to the grocery store. Buy about eight D batteries, put them in a mesh bag, and hang them over the side of the boat while you’re chumming for sharks. Saltwater is a great conductor of electric current; some think that the batteries give off just enough current for sharks to sense from a distance and hopefully come to take a look.

211 WHIP A JAPANESE JIG

Introduced in 2005, the Shimano Butterfly jig sparked the high-speed jigging craze that still continues today. Though at first this Japanese-style lure and the technique for working it were considered gimmicky by some, it has fooled so many tuna, grouper, and snappers that few these days will deny its productivity. Several companies make thin-profile high-speed jigs, but the Butterfly’s reputation as a fish killer has been cemented among anglers. Just drop it to the bottom and reel up quickly while whipping the rod.

212 GET THE GAFF!

Knowing how to gaff a yellowfin tuna or albacore ranks next to opening a beer bottle with a knife blade on the manliness scale. Should you ever need to know, here’s how to wield the gaff like a salty pro. Just make sure your gaff is sharpened. That’s rule No. 1.

DEATH CIRCLE As the tuna tires, it will swim in circles (1) below the boat. The captain should keep the engines in gear so that the fish swims parallel with the stern. Position yourself just ahead of the angler.

HEAD GAMES Hold the gaff at the rear and mid grips, and never take a wild swing. Keep the gaff point turned down and wait for a clear shot at the head (2) as the fish moves toward you.

POINT TAKEN Calmly but sharply pull the gaff into the fish’s head (3) using both hands. Body shots will ruin the meat. Aim for the eyes. The ocular area is tough and offers a better hold for lifting the fish.

HIT THE DECK In one smooth motion, drag the fish over the gunwale (4). The boat’s forward momentum should make this easier.

213 VIBE OUT YOUR LIVE BAIT

When saltwater species get cued into a large school of baitfish, sometimes it can be harder than you’d think to get them to eat. When striped bass are feeding on menhaden, for instance, or tarpon are chasing mullet, there can be so much bait in the water that your livie doesn’t get noticed. To fix the problem, all you need is a pair of scissors. Simply snip the lower part of the tail fin off your live baitfish and send it back out. It may seem like an insignificant change, but remember that all the other bait in the school is giving off the same vibrations underwater. A baitfish minus the lower part of its tail is going to swim differently, sink deeper because it won’t be able to push as much water, and emit a completely different vibration from the rest of the school. Nine times out of 10, a livie with a cut tail won’t last a minute, even if the bait schools are superthick.

214 WORK A PENCIL POPPER

Pencil poppers are one of the most effective lures at imitating large baitfish splashing on the surface. Unlike standard short-body poppers, pencils take more than just a nudge of the rod tip to make a joyful noise. Follow these steps to whip a pencil like a pro.

RIP IT Pencil poppers are rear- weighted and will travel a mile. Using a 10- to 12-foot soft-action surf rod, cast the popper as far as it will go. The greater the cast distance, the more time there is for the popper’s loud splashing sound to draw in fish.

GRIP IT Bend your knees slightly and tuck the butt of the surf rod between your thighs. With your non-reeling hand, grab the rod blank 6 to 10 inches above the first guide. This might feel awkward at first, but you’ll get used to it.

WHIP IT Reel quickly as you whip the rod. The harder the rod flexes, the more forcefully the lure smacks and spits water. If a fish strikes, this position also puts the power at the center of your body for a solid hookset.

215 NAIL A WEAKFISH

Weakfish, as well as striped bass and sea trout, respond very well to soft-plastic baitfish-imitating lures. Most of the time, these lures are fished on weighted jigheads or single unweighted hooks to create a natural forward-swimming motion on the retrieve. But if you want to throw weakies, trout, and stripers a curveball, hit them with a nail. In lieu of traditional soft-plastic rigging, stick a finishing nail in the head of the bait and run your hook straight up through the tail. When the lure hits the water, it’ll fall nosedown because of the nail’s weight, but when you twitch, the bait will jerk backward. Pause and it’ll flutter back to the bottom nosefirst again. It might not seem to make sense, but if you’ve ever watched a dying live baitfish struggling for life, they often twitch erratically and fall facefirst back to the bottom… and no predator species can pass up such an easy target.

216 SNAP SOME RUBBER

Whether you’re trolling for tuna in blue water or striped bass in the bay, rubber bands can catch you more fish and save you money. Send your trolling lure or bait out to the desired distance, loop a thick rubber band around the line (A), then loop the rubber band around the reel handle (B). This can get baits and lures a hair deeper, as your line will enter the water at a lower angle than it would coming straight off the rod tip. When a fish strikes, the rubber band snaps free of the reel handle and line, and you’re clear to fight the fish.

217 STING A FLATTIE

Fluke and flounder can be finicky and often need extra enticement to hit a jig or bait. One method that’s grown popular with the advent of artificial baits is a bucktail stinger rig. Start by tying a three-way swivel to your main line. Using 6 inches of flourocarbon, add a heavy bucktail jig (heavier than you think you need) to one eye of the swivel. Next, tie a 20-inch length of fluorocarbon to the other eye, with a 2/0 octopus hook on the trailing end. Thread a soft-plastic shrimp or mud minnow on the hook, drop the rig over a sandy or muddy bottom and let it drag. It’ll look like forage making a cloud, and when fish investigate, the trailing bait will be right in their face.

218 KNOW YOUR: STRIPED BASS

Striped bass were historically native to the Atlantic Coast, with their primary range stretching from Maine to North Carolina. An anadromous fish—meaning they spawn in freshwater rivers but live in saltwater—stripers remain one of the most widely chased species in the Northeast. Given that they can hit the 80-pound mark and prefer to hunt close to shore, legions of dedicated anglers devote their springs, summers, and falls to pursuing these migratory gamefish. They can be easily caught by shore-bound anglers casting plugs and baits into the surf, or hooked by boaters dropping live baits and jigs within a few miles of land or in the bays. Stripers have also been stocked in many land-locked lakes throughout the country, as well as in the San Francisco Delta of California. No matter where you find stripers, they share one thing in common: They strike lures and flies with a blow unlike any other species, and rip plenty of drag during the fight.