Ooster of Dockhaven, code named Uncle Beach, was protected by a series of obstacles. H Houterman
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Until 1994, I had never heard of Walcheren Island or Operation INFATUATE. Having toured large parts of North West Europe, including Normandy, the Ardennes and Arnhem, I thought that I had a wide knowledge of the campaigns of the Second World War. How wrong I was.
A phone call from a friend, Allan Rogers, started the interest in Walcheren Island, which has finally led to this book. Allan’s grandfather, Les Moran, was going to Holland for the 50th anniversary of a battle I had, as yet, not heard of. Knowing that I had more than a passing interest in anything military, Allan enquired if I would like to accompany him.
A few weeks later we arrived in Vlissingen, or Flushing as many veterans call it, on Walcheren. The weekend of commemorative parades and memorial services passed quickly but what I will never forget is the informal chats I had with the veterans. Although the rest of the world seemed to have forgotten about Walcheren, they never had and never would. In Les’ own words ‘although I was involved in other actions during the war, none has the haunting pull on me that Walcheren always has’. Hopefully, this book will bring Operation INFATUATE a wider audience, an audience it deserves.
Many people have helped me during the writing of this book. Above all the writers of the unit diaries deserve remembering. They had to type or write their account of the battle under difficult circumstances, often recounting the loss of close friends. A number of regimental historians, Matthew Little of the Royal Marines Museum in Portsmouth, Lieutenant-Colonel Hogg of the King’s Own Scottish Borderers Regimental Museum in Berwick upon Tweed and Mr Clarke of the Royal Scots Regimental Museum in Edinburgh Castle in particular, have assisted in my research.
Hans Houterman of Middelburg, Walcheren has been a tremendous help. Over the past twenty years he has managed to accumulate a comprehensive archive of documents and photographs relating to Walcheren in the Second World War. As part of his research he has managed to trace many of the survivors, both Allied and German, privately publishing ten works of his own in Dutch. My own search for information would have taken far longer and I would have missed certain items of interest without access to Mr Houterman’s archive. He also proof read the manuscript, correcting many errors and bringing to my attention local aspects of the battle not covered in British sources.
I would also like to thank the team at Pen and Sword for their co-operation during the preparation of this book. Brigadier Henry Wilson, has provided many useful pieces of advice throughout the writing process. Meanwhile, Roni Wilkinson and the design team have managed to conjure this publication out of my collection of words and pictures. In many ways it is down to them that the Battleground Europe series of books are so stimulating.
I dedicate this book to the hundreds of men like Les Moran, many of them no longer with us, who defeated one of the strongest sections of the Atlantic Wall. I hope that my son Alex never has to face the same ordeals that those young men had to in November 1944.
As any seasoned traveller to the battlefields will tell you, forward planning is the key to a successful visit. Take time to read through the book before you visit to get a feel for the battle. You may also try and acquire some of the titles listed in the further reading section at the end of this book. Although there are only a handful of published accounts covering the battle in detail, this book is not intended to be an authoritative history. It will, however, give the reader an insight into what took place on Walcheren Island in November 1944.
A comprehensive car tour at the end of the book guides you around the important locations on Walcheren. A number of short walks are included; walking allows the visitor time to take in the surroundings and refer to the book at leisure.
Travelling to Walcheren
Two continental ports, Zeebrugge and Rotterdam, serve the area equally well and both are about two hours drive from Walcheren. Your choice of route will probably be dictated by your starting point in the UK and the availability of crossings.
The route from Zeebrugge
After leaving the docks follow signs for Heist and Knokke, heading east. At the far end of Knokke, four miles from the port, the road heads inland. After ten miles, on the approach to Maldegem, turn left sign posted for Zelate and Antwerp. After fifteen miles, turn left at Zelate, heading north into Holland. A tunnel, starting at Terneuzen, takes you under the Westerschelde, the estuary leading into Antwerp. The toll bar is at the northern end of the tunnel. Continue north joining the motor way after three miles near to the town of Goes. Middelburg and Vlissingen are ten and fifteen miles to the west respectively.
The route from Rotterdam
There are two ways of reaching Walcheren from Rotterdam docks. The inland route, the A29, passes through Rosendaal en route for Antwerp. You may wish to visit the Commonwealth War Graves Cemetery at Bergen-op-Zoom, where many of the casualties from Operation Infatuate are buried. Directions are given from Junction 26, the Heerle junction, at the end of the book. Middelburg is forty miles from Bergen, along the A58. Vlissingen is five miles beyond Middelburg.
The alternative route, across the islands, takes you over a series of spectacular bridges. The N59 joins the A58 motorway near Goes. Middelburg is ten miles to the west, along the A58.
Staying on Walcheren
Walcheren has become a popular holiday destination, a potential advantage for the visitors to the island. Accommodation is both varied and plentiful, ranging from luxurious seaside hotels to campsites. A list of places to stay would fill half this book and be out of date in a short time. If you prefer to book a place to stay before crossing the North Sea, you can either approach a local travel agent or conduct your own search on the internet. Using search words such as ‘Walcheren’ or ‘Zeeland’ brings up a host of booking suggestions. There is also an excellent website covering all aspects of the province, including tourist attractions if you intend to make the most of your visit; the only drawback is that many features are only given in Dutch.
If, however, you wish to take your chances or prefer to choose where you stay on its own merits, there is a simple way of finding suitable accommodation. Most of the towns and seaside villages have tourist information offices, capable of giving you assistance. They all possess illustrated lists of places to stay. Many of the staff speak excellent English, as indeed do most people in Holland, and they can help you choose a place to suit your needs. For a small charge (eight percent of the accommodation fee in 2002), they will book your accommodation for you. This usually works out at around £3 to £4 a night for a double or twin room. It does, however, take out a lot of the uncertainty associated with securing a room and having to wander around an unfamiliar town.
Walcheren beach.
Thousands of holidaymakers from all over north west Europe travel to Walcheren during the summer months to take advantage of the endless beaches. Advance booking would be advisable if you intend to travel at the height of the holiday season to avoid disappointment. Understandably, the island is less frantic in the spring and autumn; but you will have to chance your luck with the weather. The North Sea can be particularly ferocious at times, making the dunes inhospitable to all but the hardiest traveller.
The anniversary of the landings, 1 November, is a busy time too, although not on the scale experienced by Normandy or Arnhem. Even so, ceremonies and parades draw the dwindling number of veterans and large numbers of onlookers back to Walcheren every year. The Dutch cherish their liberators and their camaraderie with the veterans has lasted for years.
Tourist information centres
Vlissingen, 3 Oude Markt - 0118 - 422190 (by the church)
Middelburg, 40 Nieuwe Burg - 0118 - 659900 (close to the town hall)
Zoutelande, 2 Bosweg - 0118 - 561818 (at the south end, on the main road)
Westkapelle, 69a Markt (in the centre of the village)
The following guidelines will give you some idea of what to expect in the principal towns and villages.
Vlissingen
Vlissingen, known as Flushing until recent years, is a small seaside town surrounded by the types of industry associated with a busy port. Parts of the old town and the harbour, have changed very little and the location of some of the war time photographs are quite easy to trace. However, the battle for the town left many scars and large areas had to be rebuilt. Progress continues at a steady rate as Vlissingen struggles to keep up with the expansion in trade. The north end of the town, the new town, has grown immensely since the war. Even so, it is possible to trace the battle, with the help of many old buildings and features.
Although the layout of the docks has not changed, the wharves have been thoroughly modernised, making them impossible to visit. However, the ferry crossing to Breskens gives ample opportunity to study the battle for the quays and the railway station.
Zoutelande, Westkapelle and Domburg
The coastal resorts were the focus of heavy bombardments or fierce fighting and were completely rebuilt after the war. The villages have become attractive seaside resorts and although there has been some post war expansion, they have not been overrun with the type of attractions associated with some tourist resorts. The coastal town of Domburg on the north coast has many hotels and camping sites. Zoutelande, to the south west is also encircled by a number of camping sites, B & B’s and caravan parks.
The resorts are protected from the offshore winds by huge sand dunes. Well-marked paths lead onto the beaches and there are many opportunities for a bracing walk along the coast.
Middelburg
Middelburg has retained many of its original features and large areas of the town look the same as they did sixty years ago. On the whole it escaped the ravages of war, saved from destruction by a remarkable series of incidents outlined later in the book. The main square hosts a regular market and it is dominated by a magnificent fifteenth century town hall. The abbey, with its huge bell tower is close by and well worth a visit. It houses a museum covering the history of Zeeland. Remains of the ancient moat surround part of the town and the canal, which passes close to the town centre, is a reminder how important water is on Walcheren.
Middelburg has a large shopping centre and it is possible to buy just about anything in the busy shopping malls. A large selection of cafés, bars and restaurants, catering for most tastes, can be found within walking distance of the main square.
Detail of the Schedle (or Scheldt) estuary, showing the key towns and villages
Travelling around Walcheren
The island is quite easy to navigate around and you can rarely stray far from your intended destination. Middelburg Abbey’s tower can be seen from many places and it can sometimes serve as a useful navigational aid if you happen to lose your bearings. You would be advised to buy a detailed map at one of the tourist information shops; some petrol stations also stock them. A compass can sometimes come in handy for finding your way around.
A car gives a traveller the flexibility to visit many places in a short space of time and sharing travelling costs with friends can make the journey relatively inexpensive. Driving on the right takes a little getting used to and it is quite easy to forget, particularly after a short stop on a quiet road. Drivers must remember to keep their eyes on the road, no matter how fascinating the surroundings are. If something of interest catches your eye, park your vehicle in a safe place so you can study it in safety. One traffic rule in Holland takes a little getting used to. Bicycles have priority from the right at crossroads the same as motor vehicles.
The area is extremely flat and the only hills, as such, are the towering sand dunes on the coast. Those who are fit enough may choose to tour the battlefield by bicycle, a practical compromise. Holland is very friendly towards cyclists, and virtually every main road possesses a cycle-path. There are number of hire shops in all the towns and villages. Middelburg and Vlissingen railway stations provide a service costing about six Euros (around £3.50) for a day’s hire. The deposit is 25 Euros (around £15) and you will need your passport for identification.
Walcheren has an excellent public transport system. A railway connection links Vlissingen and Middelburg with the mainland and the local bus network serves all the coastal villages on a regular basis.
I am afraid that if you have physical difficulty in getting around, the sand dunes are a serious obstacle. In almost every instance you have to climb fairly lengthy flights of steps to get onto the beach. Unfortunately, there are no alternatives in many cases.
High sand dunes protect the island from the sea.