CHAPTER SIX
Because of the nature of the battle the actual battlefield tour covers some considerable distance. Your own transport is a must.
There is public transport in the area, in the way of buses, but these will not take you to the actual spots. Also the tourer would have to catch several buses just to get to one particular village. Bastogne railway station has been closed for some time and consequently travel by rail is out of the question. To get to this part of Europe it is best to use your car. There are airports in Brussels, Luxembourg and Cologne and then you will have to hire a vehicle on arrival. Obviously Brussels and Luxembourg are the nearest cities to the area covered in this guide.
From the ferry port of Ostende, take the main highway, number E40, and head for Brugge, Gent and Brussels. You will pass around Brussels on a ring road, just keep to the right all the time and you will not go wrong. There are numerous motorway services on route which not only serve petrol but also have good facilities for eating, drinking and resting. After Brussels take the E411 to Namur, at junction/exit 18 turn off onto N4 marked Bastogne.
This will take you all the way there. Just before entering Bastogne, about two miles out, you will skirt past on the left the village of MANDE ST ETIENNE, it was around here that the 101st Airborne Division detrucked and went into an assembly area before moving into Bastogne proper. To the right a little further on is SENONCHAMPS, the site of American artillery positions during the siege.
Move on into Bastogne on the N4. You will cross over the disused railway line, the original bridge was blown by the retreating Belgian army during the German Blitzkrieg in May 1940. It was rebuilt by the Germans, damaged again during the 1944 siege, and finally a modern structure spans the area. One of the famous landmarks of Bastogne was the water tower. Unfortunately it remains no more, but the base can still be seen about 200 yards before the bridge on the right. Cross the bridge, (Route du Marche). There is rather a good little hotel on the right called Hotel Du Sud. Not much to look at, but it is very reasonable, good breakfast, clean room and free parking.
Passing on a little further on the left is HOTEL LEBRUN, this was the headquarters of Colonel Roberts of CCB 10th Armored Division. Another 200 yards will bring you into the town square called ‘Place McAuliffe.’ There is plenty of parking, but it is pay and display (10 Bfc per one half hour).
See potos on page 100.
In the square is a tourist office (closed Mondays), which will supply maps, postcards, details of accommodation etc. As you will see, surrounding the square, is an abundance of restaurants and bars. Very much geared up for the tourist, there is even one bar called ‘Le Nuts.’ The whole place thrives on that few days in 1944.
At the southern edge of the square is an M4 Sherman tank, still showing the damage it sustained during the battle. Alongside the tank is a bust of General McAuliffe and a Voie de la Liberté marker. These markers stretch the distance of the route taken by the Allies from the Normandy landings right down to here in Bastogne.
Make your way on foot down the N85, marked to Neufchateau. This road is called Rue de Neufchateau, about 100 yards on the left hand side at Number 20 is the Au Pays d’Ardennes museum. Well worth a visit, it contains an insight to military and civil life in Bastogne during the battle, as well as a vast collection of animals and nature with local crafts and tools. Something for everyone. For the enthusiast there are military artifacts for sale at museum – all found locally.
Walk back to the square and proceed down the Houffalize-Clervaux road and turn left, leading to the northwest part of town. Pass under a railway bridge and about a quarter of a mile will be found the HEINTZ ARMY BARRACKS. As you will see, it is still very much in use by the Army, so you will not be allowed in. In 1944 General Middleton had his headquarters within these barracks, and so did General McAuliffe when Middleton moved out.
The Hotel Le Brun, Bastogne. Command Post of the 10th Armored Division in December 1944.
Sherman tank in Place McAuliffe, Bastogne, showing battle damage.
CAR TOUR ONE
The first suggested car excursion will take a full day to cover all the items of interest.
From the square in Bastogne take the N85 Neufchateau road, past the museum, and note the monument on the right-hand side just before the bridge carrying the N4 above you. It marks the spot where a Gl named Ernest Glessener destroyed a German tank before being killed himself. He became the first Gl killed in the area 10 September 1944, some three months prior to the German offensive and the Battle of the Bulge.
Also alongside the monument is a Sherman tank turret, these will be found on all the main entrance roads to Bastogne and mark the limits of the defence perimeter. Pass under the bridge, turn right showing a small sign for Bastogne and Industrial Estate. This brings you out onto the N4, after a short distance turn right again onto a small road, heading for Assenois.
About one mile past the industrial units on the left is a small grove of pine trees also on the left. In amongst the trees is a small bunker. It still bears the scars from the three 75mm shells that were fired from Lieutenant Boggess’s Sherman tank. On the side of the bunker is a plaque commemorating the link up between the 101st Airborne Division and the 4th Armored Division. From here you can drive down into the village of ASSENOIS. However, like most of the villages surrounding Bastogne, it has been rebuilt and there is very little to see from the war.
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Tank turrets mark the perimeter on all the main roads leading into Bastogne.
The German bunker on the road to Assenois.
Back to Bastogne and out again, this time on the N84, marked Ettelbruck and Wiltz. After about one mile, just before the tank turret marker, turn right for MARVIE. It was in this village area that the 2nd Battalion 327th Glider Infantry had their headquarters and marked the south-eastern portion of the perimeter. Drive back up onto the N84 turn right and drive for about three miles, turn left on the N821 for Wardin.
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Team O’Hara from the 10th Armored Division was in position just south of this village on the N84. Wardin became fiercely contested over and it was not until 16 January 1945, that it finally fell into American hands. Most of the village was destroyed. Pass through Wardin, still on the N821, a very pretty drive will take you through Harzy, turn left to BENONCHAMPS, where the road climbs steeply. In the village take what looks like a reasonable farm road on the right. At the top of the hill a hedgerow on the right can be seen concealing a small partially made up road. To your left it peters out into a mere dirt track. This was the road from NIEDERWAMPACH, that Bayerlein used to get to MAGERET.
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Carry on along the twisting farm road past a large quarry and onto the N874. Turn right for LONGVILLY. After about half a mile there is a forest on the left and on the right dug into the side of a steep bank is the GROTTO of ST MICHAEL. This was the scene of the head on clash with the German forces and Team Cherry on 18 December. There is parking on both sides of the road. Evidence of the heavy fighting around here can be seen by the bullet spattered rocks.
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Drive into LONGVILLY (another village which has been rebuilt). Here, opposite the church in a large house, Gilbreth from CCR 9th Armored Division had his headquarters. Pass through the village, the next turning on the left heads for the village of BOURCY. This was the road that the 2nd Panzer Division took to by-pass north of Bastogne. Stay on the N874 and cross the frontier into Luxembourg where the road now becomes the N20. This brings you to a junction where the N20 meets the N12. Opposite is a filling station. The junction here was the spot of the southerly road block (Feitsch) held by Task Force Harper of CCR 9th Armored Division. Turn left onto the N12 (signposted Clervaux). Pass through WINCRANGE to the small hamlet of ANTONIUSHAFT. The old junction is now a modern roundabout, but it marks the area of Task Force Rose’s roadblock. Do a complete orbit of the roundabout and retrace your route back down the N12, cross the border again and turn right for BOURCY In the village there are still some buildings that show the scars of battle. Through the village and follow signs for NOVILLE. At the main junction in NOVILLE, there is a church on the left and on the opposite side of the road is a wall, below the street sign ‘Rue Du General Desobry’ is a memorial plaque dedicted to Team Desobry of the CCB 10th Armored Division.
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Battle damage still evident today to a house in Bourcy.
Two views of the German Panther tank at Houffalize.
From here turn right and drive the six or seven miles to HOUFFALIZE. A very pretty town with lots of restaurants, bars etc and a rather nice German Panther tank, which is worth a look at. This is a good place for a break, and a recharge of your batteries ready for the next onslaught. Returnalong the road out of the town of HOUFFALIZE (N30) through NOVILLE and onto FOY; pass through FOY and a little way along the road is a patch of woods on the left. Tank destroyers from Company C 705th Tank Destroyer Battalion were in position here by midnight 18 December.
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Return to Bastogne. In the town centre take the Clervaux road (N874) again in order to visit the
Plaque on the wall at the Noville crossroads, remembering Task Force Desobry 10th AD.
MARDASSON Museum and Memorial. The turning left is immediately after yet another tank turret and is clearly marked. MARDASSON is the name of the hill that the monument is built on. There is a large car park with full disabled facilities available. There are toilets both in the car park and within the Historical Centre. I believe there is also a cafe in the car park but it is probably only open during the holiday season. The Historical Centre is based on an American five-pointed star. It contains both American and German uniforms and equipment. The two life size dioramas featuring German and American scenes are excellent. In the centre is an amphitheatre in which you can follow the siege quite clearly. Also there is a cinema regularly showing archive footage from the battle. Alongside the centre is the inevitable souvenir shop, selling just about anything that ‘Nuts’ or ‘Bastogne’ could be printed, painted or stamped on.
The Memorial at the Mardasson Centre.
A German Hetzer tank destroyer at the Mardasson Centre.
Price of entry is Bfc 295 per adult, cheaper for children and large parties. Outside the centre are three armoured vehicles, a Sherman tank, M10 tank destroyer and a German tank destroyer (Jagdpanzer).
A short walk over to the memorial will also reveal it is in the shape of an American star. Around the top are the names of all the states which make up the Union. Along with colourful names and insignia of all the US Army and USAAF units which served within the Ardennes region. It is possible to climb to the top of the memorial where there is a walkway giving a spectacular view of the surrounding area. Mind you, it is very high, so if you are nervous of heights be careful, there is not much of a high surround to keep you from falling.
An M4 (105mm) Sherman tank at the Mardasson Centre.
The memorial was built for all the US troops who died, were wounded or missing, not just for the battle of Bastogne, but for the whole Ardennes campaign. It was inaugurated on 4 July 1950, by General McAuliffe himself, and other dignitaries, and was built by Mr Calay a native master builder from Belgium.
MARDASSON marks the closest spot that the Germans got to Bastogne from the east.
From the MARDASSON centre turn left onto the N874 and just after the hamlet of NEFFE turned left for BIZORY or if preferable carry on into MAGERET then turn left for BIZORY. After BIZORY the road climbs back towards FOY passing through a fir forest. On both sides of the road, in the forest, there is ample evidence of the fighting. Foxholes and rusting metal fragments are all around. This is where the 158th Combat Engineers Battalion dug in on a line from FOY down to NEFFE.
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As previously stated, it is extremely difficult to do a complete orbital guide of the area without having to double back on yourself, such is the road network. Also it is quite a large battlefield to try and take in. Once a certain spot has been reached there is very little else to see but a monument of some description. So badly was the area battered that most of the villages have been completely rebuilt.
Here I must put in a word of warning, if you happen to be walking through the woods and forests in the area, there is a chance you might stumble across live munitions still lying about. Please do not touch. No matter how rusty and inert they may look, the danger is still there. The area has been very much cleared but there is still the risk that something has been missed. TAKE CARE!
The next tour will take us into Luxembourg to see the route the Germans came.
An unexploded mortar bomb.
Rusting German helmet in the woods at Bourcy.
Artillery artifacts. A lifting eye from a U.S. 105mm shell, and a top of a powder charge container.
Rusting rifle bullets alongside the road near Longvilly.
CAR TOUR TWO
Exit Bastogne on the now well travelled road to CLERVAUX, cross into Luxembourg and descend from the north into the picturesque, fairyland-type town of CLERVAUX. On entering the town the HOTEL CLAVARELLIS is on the right. Proceed into the town centre. There are two car parks directly under the Chateau. They are pay and display and will cost Bfc 20 per hour (If they are working).
Statue of an American Soldier in Clervaux.
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Climb the steps to the Chateau, in the outer courtyard is a Sherman tank and a German PAK 88mm field gun. In the inner courtyard, where the 28th Infantry Division held their last stand in Clervaux, is a plaque on the wall. Also a small but very good museum, open daily 1300 – 1700. I rate this as one of the best. In the main square next to the River Clerf is a statue of an American Gl.
Back to the car and out of Clervaux via the MARNACH road. You will pass the treble switch back before climbing the steep hill out of the town. There are several view points on the climb to take good photographs of the town and Chateau. At the top is a restaurant, it was close by here that the tanks met head on leaving a crippled MK IV Panzer blocking the approach road to the town from the direction of MARNACH.
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Into MARNACH, there is a memorial in the centre, stones with plaques dedicated to the US 28th Infantry Division and its attached 707th Tank Battalion. Take turning right out of MARNACH marked DIEKIRCH. On to what was then called ‘SKYLINE DRIVE,‘ now almost a motorway.
Courtyard Clervaux Chateau.
A plaque commemorating the U.S 28th Infantry Division’s stand in Clervaux Castle.
German 88mm field gun in the grounds of Clervaux Castle.
German 88mm PAK gun in Heinerscheid.
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It was called ‘Skyline Drive‘ because it was the highest road running north to south along the front, consequently, anything on it could be observed from the German positions across the valley. Turn first left marked DASBURG. Proceed down into the valley of the Our River by means of a very steep twisty road. This will bring you to the River Our and the bridge at DASBURG which crosses into Germany proper It was here that Manteuffel personally directed traffic of the 2nd Panzer Division. Turn south on the Luxembourg side and follow the narrow road which parallels the River to GEMÜND. This area is where the 26th Volksgrenadier Division threw a bridge across and also crossed in boats in the early hours of the 16 December. Panzer Lehr also came across the Our at this point. Although, of course, the bridge, like the one at DASBURG, is new, it is built on the same spot.
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Turn around and retrace your steps and turn left in the village of OBEREISENBACH for HOSINGEN. In the centre of the town is a large stone memorial to Georges Boos (some local dignitary I suppose).
A large water tower can be seen (new of course), but in the same position as the one that used to be here in 1944. This was used as an observation post by infantrymen of the US 28th Infantry Division during the attack. It’s a good vantage point and Germany across the valley can be seen clearly.
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Turn left in town, down ‘Skyline Drive‘ (N7) straight across large roundabout on the Diekirch road. After about half a mile a crossroads will be reached. This was the CAFE SCHINCKER CROSSROADS around which the small platoon from the 28th I.D’s 110th Regiment held so bravely, watching Germans swarm either side of them as they attacked up from the River Our valley.
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Drive back up ‘Skyline Drive‘ and pass through HOSINGEN, MARNACH and follow signs for ST VITH. At the town of HEINERSCHEID, immediately in front of the church on the right, surrounded by a hedge, is a memorial to the US 6th Armored Division, who later recaptured this area. Also, beside the memorial are two rather nicely preserved field guns. One is a German 88mm and the other a US 105mm Howitzer. This about brings you to the end of this area tour covered by the book.
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US 105 Howitzer in Heinerscheid.
There are many little villages mentioned within the battle equally as famous as the ones I have guided you to. These can be visited by deviating from my route at anytime, to guide you to all of them would mean alot of ‘retracing your steps.’ So I will leave it up to the individual.
Also, as I have previously stated, all these villages were virtually destroyed during the battle and therefore have been rebuilt, which means they may not take the same form as they did in 1944.
If you follow north out of HEINERSCHEID you will come to the town of WEISWAMPACH just inside Luxembourg. Here are several good supermarkets and filling stations. It is worth bearing in mind that Luxembourg is very cheap for petrol, cigarettes and drink. So before heading back to Belgium, stock up here.
But above all, whilst out touring these villages and battle scenes please try and cast your mind back to those dark days of December, 1944 and try and imagine what those poor brave men of both sides had to endure and contend with.
Enjoy your visit.
Evidence of foxholes dug by the Engineers fifty years ago during the defence of Bastogne.