CHAPTER THIRTEEN
Travelling to Remagen
Remagen is situated between Bonn, twenty miles to the north, and Koblenz, thirty miles to the south. Visitors travelling by car from the northwest will approach the area along Autobahn E31. Take exit 30, signposted Bad Neuenahr and Ahrweiler and follow road number 573 south for three kilometres (2 miles). On the outskirts Bad Neuenahr take road number 266 heading east, signposted for Sinzig and Remagen (a new section of bypass is due to open soon, so follow signs carefully). Just beyond the Sinzig turn off take the Remagen exit at the roundabout, heading north along Route 9. Remagen town centre is signposted to the right after one mile.
Visitors travelling by road from Bonn need to head south along Route 9. The road follows the west bank of the Rhine, providing spectacular views of the Rhineland. Remagen is twenty miles south of the city. Visitors heading north from Koblenz, again follow Route 9 and after the road bypasses Andernach, the road hugs the west bank of the river. Exits for Remagen are to the right after thirty miles.
Remagen stands on the main rail link between Köln (Cologne), Bonn and Koblenz and most trains between the cities stop at the town. An alternative way of reaching the area for those wishing to leave their car at home is to fly. Many airlines serve Köln/Bonn airport for a reasonable price. The flight is between 60 and 90 minutes. A shuttle bus service takes passengers to Bonn railway station (Bahnhof) for five euros (at the time of writing). There is a regular train service between Bonn and Remagen and a one-way journey costs about four euros and takes no more than thirty minutes.
Staying in Remagen
Although there are a wide variety of hotels to choose from in Remagen, in the summer months in can be a popular location for tourists visiting the Rhineland. There are also a number of festivals in the area and again the town can be busy. The list of hotels given below is not comprehensive and prices vary according to the facilities on offer:
Hotel-Restaurant Fährhaus
Rheinallee 23
53424 Remagen-Kripp
Tel.: 02642-44213
Fax: 02642-45214
Hotel-Restaurant
Rheingold-Ahrmünde
Rheinallee 3-4
53424 Remagen-Kripp
Tel.: 02642-44410
Fax: 02642-43462
Hotel-Restaurant
Rhineland-Holiday
Gschwister-Scholl-Strasse 1
53424 Remagen
Tel.: 02642-93840
Fax: 02642-9384690
Hotel-Restaurant Boulevard
Bahnhofsstrasse 3
53424 Remagen
Tel.: 02642-23935
Fax: 02642-23935
Hotel-Restaurant Rhein-Ahr
Quellenstrasse 67-69
53424 Remagen-Kripp
Tel.: 02642-44112
Fax: 02642-46319
Hotel-Restaurant Anker
Rheinpromenade 40
53424 Remagen
Tel.: 02642-23377
Fax: 02642-23377
Hotel Garni Pinger ‘Old Inn’
Gschwister-Scholl-Strasse 8
53424 Remagen
Tel.: 02642-93840
Fax: 02642-9384690
Vita-Hotel Curanum
Alte Strasse 42-46
53424 Remagen
Tel.: 02642-2070
Fax: 02642-207999
It is possible to hire bicycles in Remagen, either at the railway station or at the Hotel Pinger (Rhineland Holiday) opposite the station. Daily rates are approximately eight euros. The kompass 1:50,000 Wander-und Radtourkarte covering Bonn and Ahrtal, Reference number 820, is ideal for finding your way around the Remagen area.
Car Tour 1
Meckenheim to Remagen - 45 minutes
This tour covers the ground crossed by Combat Command B as
it advanced towards the Rhine on the morning of 7 March 1945.
Meckenheim railway station, starting point of Tour 1.
Meckenheim railway station (1), on the northern outskirts of the town, serves as the starting point for the tour. If at any point you become lost, head into the centre of Meckenheim and look for signs for, or ask for, the Bahnhof (railway station).
Visitors coming from the northwest or from Koblenz to the south along the A61, need to take exit 10, signposted for Rheinbach. Those coming from the northwest need to turn left at the bottom of the slip road, those coming from the south take a right turn. Turn right at the T-junction after ½ mile, signposted for Meckenheim and railway station is on the left after a mile. Turn right into the town at the traffic lights outside the station (signposted for Adendorf and Alt Meckenheim).
Visitors approaching from the direction of Bonn or Köln (Cologne), head south along the A565, exiting the autobahn at junction 10, Meckenheim-Nord. Continue in a southwest direction and after two miles turn left at the traffic lights in front of the station (signposted for Adendorf and Alt Meckenheim).
Your drive, or cycle ride, from Meckenheim to Berkum.
This tour covers the ground crossed by Combat Command B as it advanced towards the Rhine on the morning of 7 March 1945. Although it follows the road taken by the northern column, and the men who would make the initial crossing of the bridge at Remagen, it is possible to view large sections of southern column’s route as it headed towards Sinzig and the River Ahr.
Head south along Bahnhofstrasse, passing the Rathuis (Town Hall) on your left, and after 250 metres, turn right at the small roundabout into and then proceed onto Klosterstrasse, following the sign for Adendorf. This road bypasses the centre of the town, which is to your left. As there are only a few shops on the road to Remagen, it may be prudent to find off street parking and buy any provisions you require.
The 27th Armored Infantry Battalion captured Stadt Meckenheim on the afternoon of 6 March and billeted in the town overnight. Bombing raids by the USAF had reduced large parts of the town to ruins, blocking many of the streets with rubble. The divisional engineers had worked through night to clear a way through the debris, however, Task Force Engeman was delayed by two hours.
Continuing south along Klosterstrasse, then head straight on when you reach the roundabout, signposted for Adendorf (2). A military police patrol waited at this junction (a crossroads in 1945) on the morning of 7 March, ready to redirect the southern column. The 52nd Armored Infantry Battalion, was supposed to follow the Adendorf road, however, Brigadier Hoge’s new orders redirected the column to the right towards Gelsdorf and Eckendorf.
Head up the slope through the suburbs, turning right at the traffic lights at the top of the hill, signposted for Bad Goesburg and Adendorf. After passing under the autobahn bridge, the countryside opens up to the right and it is possible to see Eckendorf, the southern column’s new objective, in the distance. Meanwhile, Adendorf lies straight ahead, obscured by dense woodland to the left of the road. At the end of the trees, the road swings left into the village main street (3).
The northern column captured the 5th Panzer Army Storm Battalion in Adendorf.
The first vehicles to pass along this road were armoured cars of the 89th Reconnaissance Squadron. They came under fire as they rounded the corner, but the sight of halftracks and tanks entering the village quickly brought an end to the German resistance. After sending the prisoners to the rear, Task Force Engeman was on the move once more.
Now follow the road through the centre of Adendorf, heading towards Arzdorf a mile away. The countryside once more becomes open beyond the outskirts of the village and Fritzdorf, the southern column’s second objective, can be seen on the high ground in the distance to the right of the road (4).
Berkum to Remagen.
Lieutenant Timmermann’s view of Arzdorf.
As the head of 27th Armored Infantry Battalion column approached the outskirts of Arzdorf, they were targeted by anti-tank weapons and small arms fire. This time the Germans had deployed in the wooded area immediately north of the village. While A Company dismounted and fanned out into the fields either side of the road, the tanks and halftracks moved slowly into the village. The German rearguard soon surrendered and Timmermann’s men rejoined their vehicles on the far side of the village.
Continue straight on through Arzdorf, following the main road as it swings first left, then right before heading straight up the slope. A ¼ mile beyond the crest of the hill, turn right at the crossroads on the outskirts of Berkum, signposted for Werthhoven. As you head south, take note of the magnificent panorama to the left, the wooded hills of the Westerwald on the far side of the Rhine.
Colonel Engeman’s reconnaissance vehicles encountered no resistance along this part of the route and the armoured column was able to move quickly across the open countryside.
After ½ mile take the right turn into Werthhoven and keep to the main road, Ahrtalstrasse, as you enter the village,. The centre of Werthhoven has changed little over the years and many of the houses that line the narrow street at the bottom of the hill look the same as they did in March 1945. Following the main road as it turns sharp right at the bottom of the slope, head through the modern outskirts. At the far end of Werthhoven turn right at the crossroads, signposted for Birresdorf. The road climbs a gentle slope and at the summit of the hill after ¼ mile, look to park on the right, next to a small covered reservoir (5). If you walk fifty metres along the verge past the grassy mound, it is possible to view large parts of the route taken by the southern column.
52nd Armored Infantry Battalion advanced from right to left through a series of small villages. Fritzdorf is to the west, with its white church tower (electricity pylons stand just behind), next came Oeverich and Leimersdorf as the column headed east meeting no organised resistance. The column bypassed Birresdorf, the village on the lower slopes of the hill immediately to the south. Most Germans had fled by this stage towards the Rhine and those cut off by the rapid American advance were sent to the rear as prisoners of war. The GIs were pleased to see white flags hanging from windows as they made their way towards its final objective, Sinzig. The town lies hidden in the Ahr valley to the south.
Looking southwest across the southern column’s route to Sinzig.
Task Force Engeman came under fire as it approached the woods overlooking Birresdorf.
Return to your car and continue south towards Birresdorf, turning left for Remagen before it enters the outskirts, and head east for the wooded slopes of the Scheidskopf (6).
As Task Force Engeman approached the edge of the woods, the head of the column came under small arms fire from the tree line. Once again Timmermann’s men dismounted while the heavy calibre guns on the halftracks and tanks opened fire. It was a one sided battle, and within minutes the infantry rearguard emerged with their hands up.
Follow the road through the dense woods noting how the ground drops away steeply at several points.
Major Cothran, Brigadier Hoge’s intelligence officer, managed to catch up the column as it travelled thought the woods and passed on the information about the bridge to Colonel Engeman. Although the news instilled a sense of urgency into the advance, Engeman was reluctant to speed up because the thick woods were an ideal place for an ambush.
The wooded slopes of the Scheidskopf were an ideal place for an ambush.
After passing the minor side road signposted for Bad Neuenhar and Ahrweiler (Plattborn junction), the road begins to descend down the eastern slops of the Scheidskopf. Half a mile beyond the junction there is a small cluster of houses hidden in the trees to the left of the road; an imposing structure, known locally as Waldschlösschen, stands alongside the road just beyond (7).
The Waldschlösschen Tavern
The building was a tavern in March 1945 and as Lieutenant Timmermann cross-examined the owners, Lieutenant Burrows called to him from the woods to the right of the road. Although the area is now covered by thick woodland, sixty years ago the trees ended a short distance away. Timmermann joined Burrows on the tree line and the two stared in amazement at Rhine valley and the Ludendorff Bridge.
It is impossible to stand on the same spot and see the Rhine as the two officers; a dense plantation obscures the view. It is however, possible to view it from a similar position later on if you are prepared for a steep climb.
Beyond the Waldschlösschen the road begins to descend rapidly in a series of hairpin bends, as it snakes its way down into Remagen. There are plenty of warning signs relating to the road conditions ahead; take careful note of them. After Lieutenant Timmermann had reconnoitred the outskirts of Remagen, he led A Company down the steep slope to the left of the road on foot. Meanwhile, Captain Soumas and his four Pershing tanks led C Company in their halftracks down the road. Although there are brief glimpses of the valley below through the trees to the left of the road, drivers are advised to concentrate on their driving; there are plenty of opportunities to study the view safely in a short while.
The American view over the Rhine - 45 minutes
As the road levels out there is a sign for the Apollinaris Church to the left; pull in to a small car park alongside the road to the left (8). Follow the driveway up to the church and pass through the gate to the right hand side of the church door to view a spectacular panorama of Rhine valley from the terrace. If the gates to the terrace are locked, follow the path down the hill below the church, following a series of statues representing the Stations of the Cross. It is possible to get a similar view from alongside Station VI as the path descends towards the town.
The Apollinaris Church overlooks Remagen.
The view along the Rhine from the church terrace.
Having passed the church Timmermann’s men made their way into the town, following the high street through the centre. Erpeler Ley, the huge basalt outcrop on the far bank, dominates the horizon and it is just possible to make out the twin bridge towers at the foot of the cliff.
It is possible to climb the steep hill behind the church to view the Rhine, however, the path is steep and in wet weather it can be quite slippery. Heading out of the church grounds turn right and after a 20 metres climb the steep flight of steps to the left. At the top of the steps the path winds through the woods to a shrine that stands on a small viewing terrace. It is possible to look back over the roof of the Apollinaris Church and across the Rhine valley.
Lieutenant Timmermannn’s view of the bridge, ‘Dammit, that’s the Rhine; I didn’t think it was that close.’
To reach the top of the hill, follow the path behind the shrine as it climbs through the woods. After 200 metres the path levels out; take the path to the left leading to a picnic shelter. Although Timmermann and Engeman stood several hundred metres to the right as they looked on the Ludendorff Bridge for the first time, the view from the shelter is similar.
Having studied the impressive panorama, retrace your steps back to the Apollinaris Church and your car. Note that the slopes were bare when A Company descended the slope to reach Remagen and they could see German troops withdrawing across the bridge in the distance.
The German view over the Rhine - 15 minutes
Heading down the hill towards Remagen, take the right turning into Waldbergstrasse after 400m (signposted for Auf der Neide). Following the narrow road as it winds its way up the hill through modern housing. Turn sharp right at the summit in front of a small car park and park your car close to a small traffic island after 200 metres. Follow the overgrown tarmac track through the woods to the right and after 150 metres keep to the right as the track forks. In a few metres the track swings round to the left into what used to be the courtyard of the Waldberg Hotel (9).
Although the building was once a fine hotel with commanding views of the Rhine, it has fallen into a state of disrepair in recent years. The structure is in a dangerous condition and should not be entered. Follow the path to the right of the building through the bushes and after a few metres it is possible to look across what remains of the hotel gardens and the Rhine valley beyond.
Captain Bratge had sent Sergeant Rothe and the Bridge Security Company to the hotel on the evening of 6 March 1945 to keep a lookout for advancing American troops. While Rothe stationed outposts along the Victoriasberg heights he waited at the hotel for news. Although bushes obscure the view to the north and south it is easy to see why Bratge wanted his men stationed on the heights.
The ruins of the Waldberg Hotel.
A little further on there is another gap in the bushes and it is possible to view the Rhine north of Remagen. The Apollinaris Church is a useful landmark on the hill north of the town and Sergeant Rothe could see A Company’s men as they descended into the town and after failing to contact Captain Bratge by telephone, he realised his only option was to run down to the bridge to raise the alarm. Rothe was wounded several times as he made his escape and by the time he arrived at the towers Captain Bratge had withdrawn to the east bank.
As you make your way back, take a second look through the bushes to appreciate Sergeant Rothe’s predicament. The Bridge Security Company made use of their anti-aircraft guns on the heights, to shoot at Company B of 27th Armored Infantry Battalion as they climbed Erpeler Ley.
Return to your car and retrace your route, turning right at the junction at the bottom of the hill. After 200 metres turn left onto Remagen bypass and then take the first right into the town, crossing over the railway. Park you car in one of the car parks in the centre of the town.
Walking tour of Remagen -1 hour
Remagen’s railway station (Bahnhof) at the end of Bahnhofstrasse, in the centre of the town, is the starting point for the tour. Head west along Drususstrasse parallel to the railway, The street is named in honour of the Roman general who established the first settlement on the west bank of the Rhine. At the junction of Rümerplatz, on the right after 100 metres, a small memorial garden stands on the site of Remagen’s synagogue (1). The building was destroyed by fire on Kristallnacht, in November 1938.
Continue 150 metres along Drususstrasse to an underpass beneath the railway (2). Timmermann’s company approached the town down the slope in front, past the Apollinaris church. They entered the town via Bachstrasse, the narrow street to the right. Captain Soumas’ Pershing tanks came down the road across the railway before turning right along the bypass. C Company’s halftracks followed the tanks before splitting into three groups as they entered the town. One group (typically five halftracks carrying half a dozen men) followed the tanks, while the second group followed Timmermann’s men into the heart of the town. The next part of the walk follows the route of the third column.
Walking tour of Remagen town.
Remagen’s railway station.
Remembering Remagen’s synagogue.
Continue past the underpass, turning right by the Roman Catholic Church into Deichweg. The start of the Rhine promenade is at the bottom of the slope and as you turn right by the river it worth spending some time studying the impressive panorama (3).
Bachstrasse, A Company’s route into the town.
View along the promenade, the bridge towers stand at the foot of Erpeler Ley.
While standing close to the river, it is easy to see why the German Armies were desperate to cross the Rhine ahead of the American spearheads. It was, and still is an impressive barrier; at over 300 metres its wide fast flowing waters presented Von Rundstedt with a natural barrier to regroup behind. Although it is difficult to spot the twin bridge towers that stand on the west bank of the river, it is possible to see the identical pair on the opposite bank at the foot Erpeler Ley.
Head along the promenade and after 150m turn right under an arch into Pintgasse. The market place is at the top of a short hill (4) and Remagen’s tourist information office is on the immediate right as you enter the square. A Company entered the square along Bachstrasse to the immediate left of the town hall (Rathaus). Although the majority of German soldiers had fled by the time Timmermann’s men entered the town, the GIs moved warily through the narrow streets while the local population looked on.
To follow A Company’s route turn left into Marktstrasse heading along the pedestrian precinct. Although the shop fronts are modern, the upper storeys of many buildings have changed little since 1945. After 200m Bahnhofstrasse joins from the right and it is possible to see the railway station at the far end.
Remagen’s Town Hall.
St Anne’s convent.
Head straight on at the end of the pedestrian precinct; St Anne’s Convent is on the left after 75m (5). Hauptmann Bratge used part of the building for his headquarters and it is possible that Major Scheller found him here on the morning of 7 March. Continue east along Altestrasse through the modern outskirts of the town. Remagen has expanded in post war years but in 1945 the area was quite open and A Company would have had a clear view of the bridge.
250m beyond the town cemetery follow the main road, Goethestrasse, as it forks to the left, signposted for Kripp and the Sports Centre. As you pass through the industrial area, the towers can be seen behind the warehouses on the left. Turn left into a side road after 200m, by the signpost for ‘Brücke von Remagen’. A few metres from the junction a grass path heads up a slope to the left through an avenue of small trees. From the viewing platform at the top (6) it is possible to see the bridge towers from the same perspective as Timmermann’s men did on the afternoon of 7 March. The GIs saw the explosion rock the bridge as they prepared to cross and the mixed emotions they must have felt when they saw that it was still standing are difficult to comprehend. Although the bridge is no longer there it is possible to visualise what a daunting prospect it must have been for A Company as they ran onto the bridge. Although the two towers directly in front were unoccupied, machine guns in the towers at the far end opened fire as soon as the men began to cross.
There are two ways of reaching the entrance to the museum (7) at the foot of the right hand tower. The first involves returning to the road and walking down to the river. The second route is shorter but involves climbing down the steep path, running alongside the viaduct wall.
Friedensmuseum Brücke von Remagen - 1 hour
The towers stood unoccupied and forgotten until the 1960s when Hans Peter Kürten, Mayor of Remagen, decided to try and create a museum dedicated to peace. Attempts to raise government funding failed and for seven years Kürten tried in vain to purchase the land from the German Federal Railways. In 1976 engineers began to remove the bridge piers from the Rhine to make it safer for river traffic. Kürten decided to try and sell small pieces of the piers encased in synthetic resin to the public and launched the scheme on 7 March 1978, the 33rd anniversary of the crossing. The scheme was an unexpected success and over the next two years Kürten managed to raise over 100,000 DM. With the cooperation with the local employment office, local labour restored the towers to their former glory and on 7 March 1980 the project was realised when the first of over 500,000 visitors entered the museum.
The bridge towers now house a museum dedicated to world peace.
Outside the museum take note of the memorial plaques on the base of the towers. A number of markers indicate how far the Rhine can rise when it is in flood. The entrance fee is 3.5 euros for adults and one euro for children; group discounts are available on request. In the first room, just beyond the admission booth, is a gallery of photographs depicting the bridge from its construction during the First World War to its collapse thirty years later. Climb the spiral staircase to the next exhibition, bypassing the corridor leading to the second tower. The photographs depict life in Remagen during the air raids throughout the winter of 1944-45; there is a memorial roll remembering those who lost their lives. The second floor contains photographs and memorabilia of the officers and men who manned the bridge; the American crossing is covered on the third floor. The top floor remembers the prisoner of war camp that occupied the area south of Remagen. Between April and June 1945 over 300,000 German soldiers were held in temporary camps while the Allies restored order across post war Germany.
9th Armormed Division’s memorial.
Elements of the 78th Division bore the brunt of the German counterattacks.
99th Division was the first complete division across the Rhine.
The memorial for Remagen’s local Regiment.
For thirty years the bridge piers posed a serious obstacle to river traffic. National Archives 111-SC-458076
Retrace your steps down to the gallery that leads across to the second tower. The large ground floor room contains photographs and documents relating to the design and construction of the bridge between 1916 and 1918, while the floor above contains material covering the making of David Wolper’s film The Bridge at Remagen in 1969. The remainder of the tower is devoted to the main theme of the museum, world peace. An exhibition contains a list of the wars that there have been since 1945 and is a bleak reminder that the world remains to be a violent place for many.
After visiting the museum make your way back along the promenade to the centre of the town.
Car Tour 2
The East Bank - 1
hours
After returning to your car head out of the town along the road towards the bridge towers, following signs for Kripp. Half a mile after passing the towers there is a crucifix and memorial to the left of the road, opposite Remagen college (1). Turn right into the side road and find a temporary parking space in the car park. Although the Americans remember Remagen for the capture of the Ludendorff Bridge, thousands of Germans remembered the town for entirely different reasons. As the war drew to a close the Allies were overwhelmed with thousands of prisoners of war and temporary camps were set up across Germany to hold them until resistance ended. Although they were initially designed to hold 50,000 men, the enclosure at Remagen eventually housed 134,000 men and women, another at Sinzig held 118,500.
Conditions along the ‘Golden Mile’, as the area is known locally, were primitive and resources were limited as the Allies struggled to cope with the influx of prisoners. Many were forced to sleep in the open air or in makeshift shelters and poor diet encouraged disease to spread. 62nd US Field Hospital, assisted by German doctors and medics, struggled to cope and over the course of three months more than five hundred prisoners died from ill health. They were buried together near Bodendorf along with other POWs who died in the temporary camps.
In the 1980s Hans Kürten discovered a statue of the Madonna in the vicarage at Kripp. A prisoner at one of the camps, Professor Adolf Wamper, had made the statue out of mud. Kürten preserved the statue in oil and set about raising funds for a memorial dedicated to the prisoners. The chapel was dedicated in October 1987 as a permanent reminder of the camps.
An aerial view of the ‘Golden Mille’ prisoner of war camp. National Archives 111-SC-205235
The shrine erected to remember the prisoners of war held in the Golden Mile camps.
The preserved black Madonna statue.
Continue south into Kripp and at the T-junction in the centre of the village turn left. Follow the road round to the left at the bottom of the hill and the ferry is a short distance in front. The Linz Ferry (2) operates a regular service, running constantly between the two banks of the Rhine. Cyclists are charged one euro; cars cost two euros. On the far side, follow the side road to the right as it runs parallel to the main highway; it swings round to meet it at a T-junction after 200 metres, turn left for Honnef and Bonn heading north. The road bypasses Linz and travels on the east bank of the river. Before long Remagen comes into view on the far bank and the bridge towers can be seen ahead on the right hand side of the road; park in the layby opposite the towers (3).
Sergeant DeLisio entered the right hand tower, capturing a lone German, while Sergeant Chinchar took two men into the left hand tower. While his comrades were busy clearing the towers Sergeant Drabik carried on covering the last few yards to become the first US soldier to set foot on the east bank of the Rhine.
Car tour of the east bank of the Rhine.
The pontoon bridge connecting Kripp and Linz. National Archives 111-SC-331839
A similar view of the Linz ferry, the Kaiserberg looks over the town.
Walk south alongside the road and after 200 metres cross over, taking care of the busy traffic, and pass under a small railway bridge. Heading left follow the track alongside the railway line; the tunnel entrance is to the right after 200 metres. The tunnel mouth was bricked up many years ago and the tunnel now houses seismic instruments. It is possible to look over the wall to the left and see the German view across the river beyond the towers. As Timmermann’s men gathered on the far bank, Captain Friesenhahn tried in vain to destroy the bridge, sending men out to blow the back up charges when the primary circuits failed. Once A Company had crossed it set up roadblocks on the main road about 200 metres north and south of the bridge. The GIs then had to wait all evening before tanks were able cross the bridge. Retrace your steps back to your car.
The bridge towers on the east bank.
Heading north, take the side road to the right after 200 metres, signposted for Orsberg. Follow the road through Erpel, making a sharp right across the railway. The road crosses a second railway bridge (the disused railway that once passed through the tunnel and across the bridge), after 100 metres; Major Scheller made his escape along the cutting that runs beneath the road. The tunnel mouth lies hidden in the trees to the right.
The sealed up entrance to the rail tunnel.
Turn right just beyond the bridge, signposted for Erpeler Ley and head up the steep winding road as it climbs to the summit of the basalt outcrop. B Company of 27th Armored Infantry Battalion scaled the slopes to occupy the hill, suffering heavy casualties from AA guns in the valley below. There is a restaurant and bar at the top of the hill, park you car in the spaces nearby (4).
Follow the path to the cross on the edge of the cliff to take in the spectacular views across Remagen and the Rhine. It is possible to follow the events on 7 March 1945 from the viewpoint, tracing Lieutenant Timmermann’s route through the town to the bridge. The views to the south across Kasbach, Ohlenberg, Linz and Dattenberg are equally impressive.
The memorial on the summit of Erpeler Ley
Return to your car and retrace your route back into Erpel and head straight on at the T-junction by the railway bridge, head up the hill out of the village to Orsberg. 27th Armored Infantry Battalion captured the village on the night of 7 March, stopping German engineers reaching the bridge. Continue through Orsberg and turn left at the T-junction after a mile. Take the first right after 200 metres and follow the main street through Bruchhausen, which was cleared on the afternoon of 8 March by the 2/47th Infantry Regiment. The road passes through open fields on the far side of Bruchhausen and the wooded hills of the Westerwald dominate the horizon. It is easy to see how the German managed to thwart attempts to push east of Bruchhausen.
The view over the suburbs of Remagen, the Ahr valley is in the distance.
The view south towards Linz.
Half a mile beyond the village turn left at the T-junction heading for Kretzhaus. The road enters thick woods and as it winds its way along the side of a steep gorge. Take care driving along this road, as it negotiates a number of hairpin bends (switch on your headlights if necessary).
Infantry were forced to pick their way along the sides of deep ravines, constantly harried by snipers and mortars, while tanks made easy targets for hidden anti-tank guns as they edged forward along the narrow roads. There are occasional glimpses of the valley to the right through the trees, which 310th Infantry Regiment advanced along as it tried to scale the twin peaks of Meerberg and Minderberg overlooking Kretzhaus.
The road climbs through the woods and after two miles turn right at the T-junction, known as ‘Hell’s Corner’. (5) As 52nd Armored Infantry Battalion advanced through the woods towards the junction tanks, 88mm anti-tank guns and infantry confronted them. Lieutenant McCurdy led his platoon up to the junction, directing tank destroyers forward to knock them out.
Tanks were confined to the narrow roads, while infantry had to scale steep wooded ravines.
Head under the railway bridge into Kretzhaus, where 310th Infantry Regiment fought for five days to gain control of the vital crossroads. Time after time the infantry were driven back by artillery and mortar fire as they tried to engage infantry dug in around the village. The American Shermans and Tank Destroyers were driven back several times by a Tiger tank sat on the crossroads; meanwhile, Panzer IVs and Self Propelled guns patrolled the hamlet.
Looking north from the crossroads towards Hell’s Corner.
At the staggered crossroads (6), keep to the main road as it swings to the right, (there is a service station at the crossroads. It one of the few in the area and a useful stop off point if you need any provisions for the rest of your journey) and follow the Ohlenberg road as it descends through the woods. Tanks, trying to support 310th Infantry Regiment’s attack on the crossroads encountered hidden anti-tank positions as they tried to advance up the road. 47th Infantry Regiment advanced up the valley to the left of the road, capturing the twin peaks of Rennenberg I and II before closing in on the village of Notscheid.
Bitter fighting raged for five days around Kretzhaus crossroads.
One mile from Kretzhaus, turn right into the side road signposted for Ohlenberg as the road emerges from the woods. After passing through the hamlet of Orbrunt it is possible to see the Rhine valley below. Half a mile further on the road turns sharp right into Ohlenberg; follow the one-way system through the village.
During the early days of the bridgehead, the Germans made several counterattacks into Ohlenberg in the hope of reaching the river. On the morning of 10 March German armour managed to break through 3/47th Infantry Regiment’s positions, as they drove into the village the tanks and halftracks encountered 2/310th Infantry Regiment, which had just arrived. Rather than finding themselves in a reserve position, the men had to fight where they stood, driving the Germans from the village.
At the far end of the Ohlenberg turn sharp right and continue down the hillside into Kasbach. Turn left onto the main road heading back along the riverbank towards Linz and half a mile after the ferry; take the slip road to the right, signposted for Dattenberg. The side road doubles back over the main highway before climbing up the steep hill towards the village. Just beyond the village nameplate, turn sharp left at a hairpin bend. This section of road is quite narrow and you have to be prepared to let others pass before you drive into the village. Carry straight on at the crossroads and after 200 metres turn left into a housing estate, heading down the slope to a small parking area at the end of the estate (7). It is possible to see Remagen and Erpeler Ley from the vantage point and it is worth walking a short distance along the tracks fanning out from the parking area to take full advantage of the views.
After taking one last look at the Rhine, retrace your steps through the housing estate and as you approach the sharp left turn leading out of the estate, take note of the ‘chateau’ on the horizon. The 1st Battalion of 310th Infantry Regiment fought a fierce battle around the building, a German headquarters.
Head back through Dattenberg and make your way back to the Linz ferry. Alternatively head north for Bonn or south for Koblenz, following Autobahn 42 along the east bank of the Rhine.
German troops advanced down the Ohlenberg road several times to try and reach the bridge.
Ohlenberg