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A HORSE AND HIS HUMAN HANDLER can forge a great partnership if they understand each other. Much of this understanding comes from the horse’s being handled enough to become relaxed and comfortable with the human and handled consistently so he knows what to expect. The human is trying to know and understand the horse and to be attuned to the horse’s body language. If you understand a horse, you are able to anticipate his reactions and will be better prepared for what he might do next.
Safety First
One key to working safely with a horse is good training. You want to get him used to what is expected of him so he will react in predictable ways. Another key is preparedness and attentiveness; a good horse handler is always tuned in to the horse and aware of what his reactions might be to any given situation.
The horse is a large, strong animal, and if he becomes upset or frightened or moves suddenly, you may be injured if you’re in the wrong place at the wrong time. You can prevent most problems with common sense; make it a practice to handle yourself and your horse in such a way that there’s less chance of unexpected or serious trouble. If you always have safety in mind, there will be less chance of getting caught in a dangerous situation.
BODY LANGUAGE
Horses communicate their feelings and intentions quite well, and you can tell what a horse is thinking by watching his body language. Ears forward means alert interest; ears flat back signals a threat that could be followed by a bite or kick; ears to the side means boredom or sleepiness. Tenseness or relaxation of the body can also be a clue to a horse’s mood. Tail swishing means irritation and sometimes anger — a prelude to a kick.
I’m angry.
I’m bored.
I’m alert.
I’m attentive.
I’m fearful.
I’m unhappy or in pain.
These common positions of the equine ear reveal much about a horse’s state of mind. Remember, though, that each horse is unique, and the meaning of these ear positions may vary from horse to horse and from circumstance to circumstance.
Attitude Is Important
A good horseman or horsewoman has a trusting, respectful rapport with the horse and is never careless. Never take any horse for granted. Even the most dependable horse may move suddenly if startled and can hurt you unintentionally if you happen to be in the way. Always have proactive, safety-conscious work habits, even when training a horse you know and trust. This is part of good horsemanship, and it makes for fewer stepped-on toes, bumped heads, and other, more serious, mishaps. Anticipate which way a horse will move next, and be prepared to move with him.
An important factor in minimizing accidents is a good working manner that emphasizes handling a horse with quiet confidence. A gentle but firm demeanor transmits “good vibes” to the horse, making him less apt to try to test you if he’s an aggressive individual and less likely to be insecure, afraid, or flighty if he’s timid.
If you are angry or afraid, a horse will sense that. He won’t be able to relax and trust you. A nervous horse who is uneasy about your handling is more likely to become unmanageable and give you problems than is a horse who feels secure about what you are doing. A large part of getting along with a horse and avoiding trouble that might lead to an accident or an injury is your attitude and feelings as you handle him.
Know Your Horse
You control a horse through your mind and your body. Controlling the way a horse thinks comes with familiarity, mutual understanding, and the horse’s knowing what you want and being conditioned to obey. He knows, from previous work, that Whoa means stop and stand still, that he must respect restraint by the halter, and that he must behave when you pick up a foot. This is all part of the relationship you develop as you work with him.
SAFETY TIP
You may want to wear gloves to shield your hands from rope burns when working with horses. The gloves should be close fitting and flexible so they don’t inhibit your finger dexterity.
The horse is stronger than you are, but through training and your confident attitude, he accepts your dominance. If he is momentarily frightened or upset, however, he may forget his manners and become difficult to work with. You must be able to calm and restrain him. If he respects you, he’ll be more apt to listen when you want him to stand still and behave, even under difficult conditions. Use proper leverage and contact with him to best advantage, to keep him under control and to keep from being kicked, bumped, or seriously injured if he becomes alarmed. (See Safe Holding and Safe Leading on pages 15 and 18, respectively.)
Safety Precautions
To minimize accidents and injuries, always wear proper attire when working with horses and use safe equipment.
Proper Attire
When working with a horse, wear protective footwear, not soft shoes or sandals. Sturdy shoes and boots, preferably leather, help protect against the weight and scraping of a horse who bumps or steps on your toes; a good leather boot may also lessen the impact and damage because a horse’s foot may slide off it. Choose soles with good traction. Slippery soles may cause you to lose your footing and fall down in front of a horse or slide underneath him.
STIRRUP SAFETY TIP
If your stirrups have rubber pads, don’t wear rubber-soled boots or shoes; they will stick. Alternatively, remove the rubber pads from the stirrups. You want your feet to be able to move and kick out of the stirrups if necessary.
English riding boot
Western boot
Lace-up riding shoe
Sturdy boots and shoes are the safest footwear when you work around and ride horses.
Western-style helmet
English-style helmet
Helmets should be sized appropriately and always worn with the chinstrap snug and securely fastened.
When riding, wear boots or high-top riding shoes that have heels. These will keep your ankles from being rubbed raw on the stirrup leathers and a foot from sliding clear through a stirrup. People have been dragged to death when a foot slipped through a stirrup before they fell off. The high, slanted heel on old-style cowboy boots made it nearly impossible for the foot to slip through a stirrup bow. If a foot does get hung up, a cowboy boot or riding boot will generally pull off; your foot will come out of a pull-on boot caught in the stirrup more easily than out of a lace-up boot or shoe (see page 9 for information on breakaway stirrups).
Helmets are important when working with horses. A helmet can save your life and prevent serious head injury if you strike your head when falling from a horse or if a horse knocks you down or kicks you. Just as many accidents occur when handling horses from the ground as when riding them. Your head is the most vulnerable part of your body; a broken arm and cracked ribs will mend, but a broken skull or a brain injury can be fatal or leave you permanently impaired. The most common cause of death in horse accidents is head injury.
Tests required for riding helmets to meet safety standards are stricter than for any other sports helmet. When a helmet is approved for horseback riding by the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) or the Safety Equipment Institute (SEI), it has undergone rigorous testing and meets those standards. Helmets should fit securely, with a snug chinstrap, for good protection. Today there are Western-style helmets (beneath a Western hat) as well as English ones.
Protective vests that incorporate the same kind of shock-absorbing foam used in helmets are sometimes worn by riders when jumping or working with an unreliable horse. A vest may reduce risk for serious injury if you are thrown from a horse or if a horse falls with you.
Safe Equipment
Use a strong halter, properly sized for the horse. A halter too small and tight will be uncomfortable; a halter too large may pull off if the horse sets back. A too-large halter also puts the horse at risk for catching on something or getting a foot caught if he scratches his head with a hind foot.
A snap-on lead rope or strap may be fine for leading, if the snap is strong and well attached, but it may be unsafe for tying. For each horse, have an appropriately sized halter with lead rope securely tied to it — something that will never break or pull loose. When tying, use a rope attached to the halter, not a leather lead strap, and never tie with bridle reins.
A bridle should fit well, cause no discomfort, and keep the bit in the proper place for good control. Bridles and reins should be made of strong material and kept in good repair. A broken rein or headstall puts the rider at risk if it breaks during a ride.
The saddle should fit both you and your horse. A saddle that doesn’t fit the horse will cause him discomfort, and he won’t perform as he should — he may even try to buck you off. A saddle that doesn’t fit you will make proper riding more difficult; when you are not in harmony with your horse, you are more at risk for accidents. The saddle should be well built of quality materials. A cheap saddle is often made from inferior materials that won’t hold up — the saddle tree (its inner frame) might break, stitching may come out, or the leather might pull apart, for example. An inexpensive saddle is not a bargain if it causes an accident.
Tie a rope, not a lead rope with a snap, securely to the halter. Any simple knot that becomes tighter when pulled will do, or you can attach the rope to the halter permanently by braiding it back into itself.
Girths and cinches should be strong, and they must be comfortable to the horse. Stirrups should be wide enough that you can easily kick your foot free — so it won’t catch if you fall — but not so wide that a boot could easily go through one.
Many English saddles have breakaway stirrups. These are designed to pull loose from the saddle if pulled toward the rear of the horse, enabling a fallen rider to break free before he is dragged. Other designs help the foot come out of the stirrup during a fall. Some Western saddles have tapaderos, stirrup covers over the toes to protect them when you are riding through brush and also to keep a foot from going clear through the stirrup bow. Toe-stopper attachments are available as well for almost any type of stirrup.
Check Your Equipment
An important part of horse safety is regular inspection of tack. You don’t want an accident caused by a broken rein or girth. When cleaning tack, undo all buckles and thoroughly clean, oil, or soap underneath them. Leather becomes thin and weak when buckles are in the same spot for a long time. For example, the off-side (right side) billet that holds the cinch or girth can wear too much in one spot (the fold that rests against the buckle or metal rigging of the saddle) and will eventually break if it is not checked and replaced occasionally.
RATING ROPE
A nylon rope is stronger and more weather resistant than is cotton rope of the same diameter (a ½-inch nylon rope will hold as well as a ¾-inch cotton rope) but has a slicker surface and is likely to cause a friction burn if it slides through your hands. A small-diameter hard-twist rope such as a lariat is too stiff for easy handling and is also likely to cause a friction burn to you or your horse. The best kind of lead rope is a ⅝-inch or ¾-inch soft cotton rope, kept clean and dry so it won’t rot or fray.
Many riders fail to check it because they are always saddling and working with the horse on the left side of the horse.
If you are using a Western saddle with double rigging, make sure the connector or hobble strap fastening the back girth to the front one is secure; otherwise the flank girth (rear cinch) can swing back too far and startle or irritate the horse, thus causing him to buck.
Safe Ground Handling
Good horsemanship is just as important during ground work as when riding, and this includes conscientious, consistent safety practices. Haltering and leading are the most basic elements in the horse-human relationship. How you control a horse in these fundamental steps sets the tone for the rest of your interaction.
HALTERS ARE ESSENTIAL
Always use a halter. In an emergency situation when you don’t have one — as when encountering a loose horse, perhaps — you might use a rope, belt, scarf, or hay twine held together under his neck, but none of these gives proper control and none provides a safe method for handling a horse. If you must use a rope or hay twine, you’ll have more control in an emergency if you loop it around his nose as well.
Safe Catching
The term safe catching is misleading because it implies catching up with or snagging something in motion (a ball or fish, for example). You want to approach or meet and halter your horse, rather than having to “catch” him with a lariat or corner him in his pen. The goal is to halter him in a nonconfrontational manner, with him walking up to you or you walking up to him so you can put the halter on. (For tips on training an adult horse to be an easy catcher, see chapter 17. Chapters 3 and 4 describe methods for catching a foal or young horse.)
Make sure a lead rope or strap is attached to the halter; a halter by itself is not adequate for handling a horse because he can jerk away from you. Use a lead 8 to 12 feet long. A too-short rope doesn’t allow you to give any slack (without losing it) if he pulls back or bolts; a longer one may get in your way or entangle you. A too-long rope may also give a spoiled horse more leverage against you if he bolts and is traveling fast by the time he gets to the end of the rope.
When preparing to catch your horse, drape the unfastened halter over your arm or shoulder in a neat configuration, with the lead rope coiled or looped so it won’t drag on the ground and trip you. You want the halter ready to slip easily onto the horse without having to unfasten or untangle it.
How to Approach a Horse Safely
To keep from startling a horse, always let him know you are coming. Speak to him as you approach. That way, if he’s standing half asleep or busy eating, he’ll be aware of your presence and won’t jump or kick because you surprised him. And always speak to a horse before you touch him.
Never come up behind a horse unless there is no other way to approach — and you are sure he knows you are there and is comfortable with your approach. Horses have wide lateral vision but a blind spot directly behind the rump. It’s best to approach the shoulder, if possible. With a strange horse, always approach on his left, as this is the side from which horses are most accustomed to being handled. Move slowly and speak softly; the horse may be startled by sudden movement or sound.
Approach the horse and touch him in preparation for haltering.
Safe Haltering
After you’ve touched the horse, hold the unfastened halter in your left hand and slip the rope around his neck (holding it together under his throatlatch with the right hand) so he knows he is “caught” and will stand still for you to put the halter on. A horse may try to avoid the halter, but the rope around his neck will keep him from taking off.
SAFETY TIP
Hold the rope around the horse’s neck; don’t tie it. If he pulls away from you before you get the halter on and takes off with the rope tied around his neck — dragging the bouncing halter behind him — this could scare him into running through a fence. It could also entangle you and put you at risk if you become caught in the halter.
If the horse holds his head in a normal position (or lowers it for you, as a well-trained horse will do), it’s easy to slip on the halter and fasten it while still holding the rope around his neck. Slip the noseband up over his muzzle with your left hand. Use your right hand to reach under the throatlatch to put the long strap or halter loop up over his neck behind his ears so you can grab it from the near side to fasten it.
A. Slip the lead rope around the horse’s neck but don’t tie it (see Safety Tip).
B. With your right hand, reach under the throatlatch to put the long strap or halter loop up over the horse’s neck and behind his ears, and then reach up and fasten it.
If he raises his head, you still have control with the rope around his neck. After you slip the nose piece over his muzzle, you may have to reach with your right hand to place the long end of the crownpiece behind his ears, but it’s generally long enough to flip over his neck, even with his head in the air, to where you can reach it with your left hand and then buckle or otherwise fasten it.
Catching in the Stall
Most horses in a stall are willing to be haltered because they want to be taken out. When you enter a stall, be sure your horse knows you are there, especially if he is eating or napping. If he’s timid, approach slowly and speak to him reassuringly, carefully cornering him if he is reluctant to have you near him. A horse who associates people with unpleasant things or hard work may try to avoid being caught. If any horse is resistant, be careful; there’s not much room to get out of his way if he turns his hindquarters to kick you.
The bold, spoiled horse needs a more assertive approach. Have a confi-dent, firm manner so he knows he can’t bully you.
The horse in a stall may be so eager to get out that he steps on you or pushes into you as you try to halter him. Leave his door closed until you have the halter on him. Make him stand quietly a moment, even after you open the door, so he learns that he must wait for your signal to move. When you’re ready to lead him out, open the door wide so there is no risk of his bumping the door or pushing you into it as he leaves. If he always tries to charge out every time you open the door, spend some time on lessons to teach him not to bolt out of the stall. Catch him several times a day without taking him from the stall, so he learns not to anticipate rushing out every time you come. Catch him and turn him loose without opening the door. Or stop him halfway through the doorway and back him up again, turn his head to the wall, take his halter off — and leave. Alternate various tactics so he’ll never really know when he’ll actually be led out of the stall. Keep him guessing, and he’ll eventually give up on trying to bolt out the door.
REMOVING THE HALTER
When taking off a halter, loop the lead rope around your horse’s neck and hold it under the throatlatch while you take off the halter. Don’t let the halter drop or dangle — you don’t want either of you to step on it or get tangled in it. Hold the horse for a moment with the rope so he knows he cannot take off the instant you unhalter him, then release the rope and walk away.
Know your horse, and work accordingly. The timid horse needs slow, careful cornering and a lot of patience, while the aggressive horse needs a firmer manner. In all cases, position yourself where the horse will not be likely to step on you, push you into the wall, rush past you, or turn his hindquarters to you.
Catching in Pen or Pasture
The well-trained horse comes when called or at the very least stands still for you to approach and halter him. If a horse is evasive about being caught in a pasture, see chapter 17 to learn how to train him to be caught easily.
Whether you take a treat when you catch him will depend on the horse and his training. Some are trained to come when called or to stand as you approach, with no bribes; others expect a treat or a bite of grain. In a paddock with no grass, a handful of green grass may serve as a reward. Whatever your method, be consistent and expect consistency from the horse. If he expects a treat and is polite — doesn’t charge over you or nip your hand to get it — this is the easiest compromise. You expect him to come, and he expects a small reward for coming.
If he tries to grab a bite of grain without being caught, don’t take grain with you. It’s better to teach him to allow himself to be haltered, knowing he will then receive his reward. This makes for better manners and is usually safer for you.
Catching in a Group of Horses
Don’t take grain or treats to catch a horse who is living with other horses; the group may come charging for the grain and fight over it, putting you at risk of being run over or kicked. When several horses live together, this complicates the job of catching one of them. You may have to catch the dominant horse first so he will not hinder your attempts at catching the others.
TREAT SAFELY
If you must use bribes to catch a horse, don’t let him eat from your hand. Horses fed by hand tend to get pushy and nippy. Always feed grain in a bucket or some other container. Even treats like carrots and apples are best fed from a container instead of from your hand. If you keep treats in a pocket, an impatient horse may look for them, and a jealous horse may snatch at them if more than one horse is involved.
Lead the boss horse; the others will follow you into a smaller pen, where you can catch the one you want in a more controlled situation. If you must feed the group in the big paddock or pasture in order to catch one, put out as many piles of hay or tubs of grain as there are horses, so they won’t fight over the feed as you try to catch the one you want.
When working with a group of loose horses, to make sure none invades your personal space, carry a crop and use it. Horses in groups can be very dangerous as they chase one another or squabble, not paying attention to the person among them. Even if you’re not the target of aggression, a subordinate herd member may crash into you while trying to avoid a kick or bite from a dominant individual.
Safe Release
Turning a horse loose in his pen or pasture after you’ve worked with him can be dangerous if he has poor manners. Even turning out a stabled horse for exercise can pose a danger if he is eager to be loose. Some horses want to take off bucking and kicking as soon as you free them; stay out of the way.
A horse who is inclined to be exuberant when turned loose requires a controlled situation. Lead him through the gate, and make him stand for a moment. Before you take off the halter, loop the end of the rope around his neck; this way, you still have control after you slip off the halter. After the halter is removed, wait until he is calm and relaxed, then step back and walk away. He must learn that you are the one who does the leaving, not him.
If a horse is really rambunctious when released, first turn him around to face the gate (leave it unlatched so you can slip back through it). Make him stand still before taking off the halter, then hold the rope around his neck. When you finally slip off the rope, quietly back through the gate so that you are out of the pen or pasture completely before he turns around to take off. Now you are not in danger if he takes off bucking and kicking. Always make him wait until he is calm before you allow him his freedom, thus enforcing the rule that you are the one to leave first.
Safe Holding
Sometimes you must hold a horse still for the farrier or veterinarian. The person holding the horse can determine, in large part, whether the procedure is difficult or easy, safe or dangerous. Keeping a horse calm, keeping him from moving at the wrong time, and preventing him from kicking and striking are all critical.
USE PROPER RESTRAINT
Use a properly fitted halter. Some horses may need a chain over the nose to restrain them during certain procedures, or even a twitch or Stableizer (see page 116, chapter 4). If you use a chain, make sure it doesn’t cause pain or annoyance; the horse may become even more upset and unmanageable by fighting the restraint as well as the procedure. When using a chain, make sure you keep your fingers clear of it.
A horse’s instinct is to run away from whatever he perceives as danger or to fight if he can’t get away. Anything the horse is not used to (or doesn’t like) may provoke a defensive response. The best way to prevent dangerous behavior is with training; that is, with consistent handling from the time the horse is young. With training, your horse will be relaxed about the things you do with him. He will trust and respect you and accept the things you do with him rather than shift into fight-or-flight mode whenever something upsets him.
A young, neglected, or spoiled horse may not have enough training to be at ease during procedures he is unaccustomed to, such as vaccination, foot trimming, clipping, deworming, or treatment of an injury, however. Even a dependable horse may hurt you if he moves at the wrong time and you’re not expecting it. Be prepared for evasive or defensive actions, know how to prevent or minimize these actions, and position yourself so the horse cannot inflict harm if he does move.
Choose a safe place to hold the horse. Sometimes an open area is best, a place with no obstacles to bump into if you have to move around. If the horse must be quite still, however, hold him next to a stall wall or solid fence (never a wire fence, or he may put a foot through it). If you think he might rush backward, back him up against a fence or wall so he can’t use this evasive tactic. When there’s a solid barrier on one side and both the horse holder and the person working on the horse are on the other side, the horse will generally stand still.
When holding a horse, never stand in front of him. You don’t want to be stepped on or bumped into. Instead, stand at his shoulder, where you’ll be out of harm’s way if he lunges forward or strikes. Or stand facing his shoulder, with one hand on his halter and the other on his neck or withers and with your feet positioned so you can move with him if he moves. Bracing yourself against the horse also enables you to move with him.
If you are holding the halter with your left hand, facing your horse, you can read his expression and intentions. With your right hand, rub his neck or withers to help calm and distract him. A soothing voice, steady humming, or soft whistle while rhythmically rubbing his neck will help keep his mind off whatever else is being done to him, and he’ll more readily tolerate the situation.
SAFETY TIP
Body contact is a crucial part of safe horse handling. You not only have better leverage for holding him and working on him, but you can also tell whether he is relaxed or tense. In this way you will be better prepared for any sudden movements.
You can usually keep him from moving at the wrong time or from kicking. Raising his head or pulling it toward you makes it more difficult for him to kick at the person working on him. Always use a properly fitted halter when working with a
When holding a horse still, stand at his shoulder, with one hand on his halter and the other on him, so you can move with him if he moves.
horse. In an emergency situation when you don’t have a choice of halters, if the halter is loose, hold it more snugly under his chin, holding the loose part together, so your hand has contact with his jaw as well. The more contact you have with a horse, the better control you have, and the less likely it is that he will bump into you if he jumps around.
Close contact with a horse is safer than being a distance away. This is especially true when working around the hindquarters, where you could get the full force of a kick.
When you are touching a horse and are confident, relaxed, and matter-of-fact in your actions, he is more relaxed and secure. He knows exactly where you are and what you are doing and is less apt to jump or kick. Sudden contact, such as a spray of fly repellent, may startle or alarm him. But if you’re touching him in that spot and reassuring him, you can usually accomplish the procedure without disturbing him. Safety involves knowing the horse as well as possible and being alert to potential reactions — automatically keeping yourself in a position that puts you at least risk. This is usually a position very close to him, touching him, and transmitting your confidence through that touch.
Safe Leading
When leading a horse, you’ll have the most control over his movements and actions by walking beside or just ahead of his left shoulder, about a foot away, holding the halter rope 6 to 8 inches from the halter or even holding on to the halter itself if more precise control is needed for a horse who is not yet well trained. When leading a horse with a bridle, hold on to both reins, a few inches from the bit, with a finger between the reins and the extra length of reins looped neatly in your other hand.
Never wrap the end of a lead around your hand. Keep the extra length in neat loops with your hand over them, not through them. Then you can drop a loop or two to give the horse slack or take it up again in a hurry. Don’t hold the rope in a coil that might slip around your hand or arm if he bolts.
SAFETY TIP
Always have a rope or lead shank attached to the halter. Your horse will be less able to pull away or dislocate your shoulder if he jumps, rears, or turns quickly. Never lead a horse with just a halter. If a rope is attached to the halter, you can always let out some slack; that way he can’t jerk you as hard as he could if you were just hanging on to the halter.
Walk beside your horse’s shoulder, holding the halter rope 6 to 8 inches from the halter. Keep your leg that’s closer to him in stride with his closest leg, which reduces the likelihood that your foot will be stepped on.
When leading with loop reins (rather than split reins), always take down the reins over the horse’s head when you start to lead him. If the reins are still on his neck and he balks, backs up, or bolts, you won’t have control and may make the problem worse, because one side of the reins will be pulling on his mouth.
Don’t walk in front of a horse you are leading. If he spooks and leaps forward, he could bump into you, jump on top of you, or step on your heels. You have no control of his movements when you are in front of him. Walk beside his left shoulder, moving along with him. Then you have control over his head, and thus, all of his actions. You can keep him at the speed you want and halt him when necessary. If he tries to go too fast or bolt, use body leverage to halt or slow him: lean your elbow into his shoulder and pull his head around so he has to circle you and can’t get away. When you have this kind of contact, you can be as strong as he is.
Hold the lead rope fairly close to the halter when leading a rambunctious horse. If there is too much distance between your hand and the halter, the horse can gather too much speed too quickly and can pull directly into the halter; you may not be able to stop him. To have control you must be able to “take his head away,” pulling it around toward you. You are better able to do this when you have a short hold on the rope and the ability to brace yourself against his shoulder.
If your horse tries to go too fast, use body leverage to halt or slow him. Lean your elbow into his shoulder and pull his head around so he can’t bolt.
When walking beside him or leading at a trot, keep your feet from being stepped on by moving your feet in cadence with his, at the same stride. Your leg that’s closer to him moves in unison with his leg that is closest to you. The only time he can step on your foot is if yours is already on the ground while his is coming down. If you are walking in stride with him, your foot and his will be hitting the ground together; thus, there is little chance that he will step on your foot.
SAFETY TIP
When leading a horse who is wearing an English saddle, always run the stirrup irons up after you dismount, so they won’t flop and startle him.
Safe Tying
Knowing how to tie a horse properly is one of the fundamentals of good horse-manship. An improperly tied horse is potentially dangerous. If he pulls back when startled, he may break loose. If he flies back on the rope when you are trying to tie or untie him, you may get your hand or fingers caught in the rope, perhaps losing a finger or part of your hand. The horse may also crash into you if he sets back, then flies forward again.
Halters and ropes should be strong and in good repair. Web halters should be at least three ply, with sturdy hardware that won’t break or come apart. A rope halter without buckles or metal rings is best. A horse should be tied with something strong enough to hold him even if he pulls back with all his strength. If he breaks loose when pulling back, he’ll likely try it again and thus become dangerous to tie up. A horse who never breaks loose when pulling is more apt to accept restraint readily. Make sure the rope is securely fastened to the halter. Many snaps used on halter ropes will break if a horse pulls back hard; use a lead rope you can tie to the halter with a knot that will not come loose.
Some people feel that if their horses are well trained, they don’t need to tie them properly. But careless tying — or using a flimsy halter or rope, using a too-light lead shank or snap, or tying with bridle reins or to an insecure object — is dangerous. Even the most dependable horse may spook in unusual circumstances. Any number of things may cause a placid horse to jump or set back: a gust of wind could blow something into his face; a noise may startle him if he’s dozing.
A horse who falls over backward when the rope breaks may seriously injure himself or suffer fatal brain damage if he hits the top of his head on the ground. If he pulls a board or pole from the fence and takes off with it swinging and hitting him, he may become injured or injure people or other horses. The trauma of any of these experiences will render the horse unpredictable when tied up again.
Never tie to anything that might move or come loose. When tying to a pole fence, make sure the pole is nailed securely to the other side of the posts and cannot be pulled off. And loop your rope around a solid post as well as to the pole. Never tie to a wire fence or netting; if the horse paws at the fence, he might get his foot caught. If tying to a horse trailer, be sure the trailer is attached to the pulling vehicle or securely blocked so the wheels can’t move.
Don’t tie to a metal fence panel or gate, even if it’s solidly connected to a post. Tie to the post. If there is no post, take several turns around the top metal rail with the rope, rather than tying hard and fast. Then if the horse does pull back, the rope will slip a little rather than pull the gate or panel too much. Don’t leave him unattended with this type of “tie.”
Do not tie a horse for bridling or unbridling (or even saddling, if he’s still green) or get on him while he is tied. Don’t have him tied for clipping, deworming, vaccinating, or any other procedure he may be uneasy about. Don’t walk under his neck while he’s tied; walk around him to change sides or untie him. Approach him from the side to work with him or to untie him. If you walk straight at his head and startle him, he may pull back. Always make sure he knows you are there, and approach in a calm and relaxed manner when he is tied.
USE A HALTER OR NONSLIP KNOT
Never tie a horse with a rope around his neck, unless you use a nonslip knot such as a bowline. If you use a knot that slips, the horse could tighten the rope around his neck and strangle. And remember this: It’s always safer to use a halter. The halter distributes pressure more evenly; if the horse does set back, he won’t be so likely to injure his neck.
To tie a bowline knot, pass the rope around the neck and put a simple loop in the standing part of the rope (A). Insert the free end of the rope through the loop formed; double back the end, and hold this loop with the thumb and forefinger of your left hand (B). With your right hand, pull the standing part of the loop (C), using an upward motion that will make the loop of the first knot slip over the loop in the left hand to form a bowline (D).
Using Cross-Ties
Restraining a horse in a stall or barn aisle for grooming and saddling, for example, is often done with cross-ties, using ropes of proper length fastened to rings in the wall, with snaps on the free ends to attach to the horse’s halter. Position the horse in the center of the aisle or stall with his head between the cross-ties. Fasten one of the ties to his left side, snapping it to the cheek ring on the side of his halter, then fasten the one on his right.
For the safety of the horse, the space in which he is tied should be no more than about 15 feet wide. Position ties only slightly higher than the horse’s head to allow some movement without their being loose; the horse should be able to move his head at least 6 inches either way. The snaps on the rope ends should be easy to release even if there is pressure on them, and make sure the footing is nonslip. It’s best if there is a wall behind the horse so he will not be inclined to pull back.
SAFETY TIP
Some horses feel overly confined in cross-ties and may become nervous or try to pull back. These horses do better if tied with just one line, which gives them more freedom of head movement.
Cross-ties can help keep a horse from moving around when you are working with him. The ties should be slightly higher than the horse’s head.
Ways to Tie a Horse
Tie with enough slack for freedom of head and neck but not enough for the horse to put his head down under the rope or lift a foot over the rope. If he reaches for grass or to scratch his face on his leg or rub on the fence, he could get into trouble.
SAFETY TIP
When tying, choose a place with good footing. Never tie a horse where the ground is sloping or covered with rocks.
Tie short — about 16 inches — but not so short that he cannot move his head; this would make him feel threatened by the confinement.
Tie to something level with the horse’s head or higher. It is best to tie a little higher than his poll. Then if he pulls back, he won’t damage his neck muscles or hurt his neck.
When tying the horse to a tree, make sure the rope can’t slip down the trunk. Choose a tree with a branch or some irregularity in the trunk that will keep the rope at proper height. Make sure there are no sharp branches that could injure the horse’s head or eyes. A stout horizontal limb above his head, well above your saddle so it can’t catch on the branch, is safest. Loop the rope over the branch and tie with a quick-release knot. Never tie to a dead limb or tree; it may break off if the horse pulls back.
Use a knot that will hold securely yet be easy to untie quickly. Never tie with bridle reins; sooner or later you’ll end up with broken reins and a horse with an injured mouth. On a ride, take a halter and rope if you plan to tie up, or keep a halter on under the bridle. Then you’re prepared for any situation in which you might need to tie the horse.
Properly tied, a horse has some freedom of head and neck but won’t be able to get his foot over the rope. The rope should be tied level with his head or higher.
BE PREPARED TO CUT THE ROPE
Always carry a sharp pocketknife when working with horses. You may find yourself in a situation where you must cut a horse loose — from a rope that’s entangling or choking him, for example, from a harness strap, or from a blanket strap. Never tie a horse with something that can’t be cut in an emergency.
Manger Tie
The manger tie is an effective knot that can be undone with a quick pull on the loose end yet is very secure. It won’t come loose if the horse pulls back. If a horse nibbles at the rope or tries to untie himself, you can put the loose end through the loop of the tie, making it impossible for him to undo the knot, especially if you put it around the side of the post so the loose end hangs down on the other side of the fence.
To tie a manger tie, pass the end of the rope under and then over the top of the pole and loop the rope under itself (A). Double the end of the rope into a loop (B), and pass that loop through the first (C). Pull the loop through and tighten (D).
BE NEAR OR FAR
When working with a horse, stay either very close for leverage or at least 12 feet away, out of kicking range. Let him know you are there and what you intend to do before you do it. Touch him with your hand before you touch him with a brush or comb. Run a hand down his leg before you pick up a foot. Keep a hand on him and talk to him so he knows where you are. Keep in contact so he won’t be startled if he gets relaxed and sleepy.
Safe Grooming
Keep your grooming tools organized and out of the way of the horse. Stand at his shoulder, not in front of him, and keep in close contact. If you have a hand on him at all times, you won’t startle him. Don’t suddenly reach for his head; begin at his shoulder and work forward.
Standing close to the hindquarters is safer than at arm’s length away; if the horse kicks, his leg will merely push you rather than hit you with full force. Don’t stand directly behind a horse. When brushing the tail, bring it around to the side to work on it. Go easy on sensitive areas and ticklish spots.
To avoid being stepped on, always be prepared to move with your horse if he moves or startles. When working near his hindquarters, be aware that he could accidentally kick you as he kicks at flies. He may also swat you with his tail. Sometimes a horse who is upset may swat you across the face. This not only is uncomfortable — the hairs can sting if he swats hard — but also can cause serious injury if he lashes the tail hairs across your eye.
When working around his legs and feet, as when putting on hoof dressing, never kneel on the ground. You won’t be able to move fast enough to get away if he happens to move in your direction. If you crouch, you always have your feet under you and can quickly pop up to the standing position or move fast to get out of his way.
Safe Bridling
Use a careful and conscientious routine every time you bridle and saddle. It’s generally best to saddle a horse first, while he’s still tied, if he ties well, and then to bridle him. When you are finished with your ride, take off the bridle first, tie the horse, then remove the saddle and groom him.
When bridling, put the bridle on over the halter, so you still have control of the horse. If you are taking off the halter before bridling, untie the horse and temporarily buckle the halter around his neck to maintain control or hold the rope or bridle reins around his neck for restraint.
When bridling, don’t clank the horse’s teeth with the bit or cram his ears into the headstall. Slip in the bit — pressing thumb or finger against the inter-dental space if he won’t open up — with your left hand while holding up the headstall with your right, ready to slip it over his ears as soon as the bit is in his mouth. Slip in the right ear first. Make sure the bridle is adjusted properly, and fasten the throatlatch snugly but not too tightly. If the horse won’t lower his head to let you bridle him, spend some time teaching him to lower his head on cue (see chapter 6).
Hold the bit in your left hand and the headstall in your right.
With the bit resting in your hand, put a finger into the corner of the horse’s mouth and press on his gum line to encourage him to open his mouth. Use your thumb to guide the curb chain behind his chin. Slip the bit into his mouth and pull up the headstall.
Slip the right ear into the headstall, then the left.
Bridle Fit
For the comfort of the horse and for optimum communication, the bridle should fit well — the cheek straps should be tight enough that the bit fits snugly but does not overly wrinkle the corners of the mouth — and the bit should be appropriate to his stage of training (see chapter 7 for more on bits and their uses). When you bridle your horse, make sure all straps, especially the curb strap or chain, are straight and smooth so they don’t rub and cut into the skin. The throatlatch should be just loose enough for you to slip your hand between it and the horse’s throat. Its purpose is to keep the horse from being able to rub off the bridle.
Unbridling
When removing the bridle, unfasten the throatlatch and slip off the headstall over the ears, letting the horse spit out the bit. Don’t pull it out or let it clank against his teeth.
Be careful with loop reins. An inexperienced or nervous horse may injure his mouth if he gets a foot in his reins and panics when he puts up his head and is restrained by the reins.
Safe Saddling
Before saddling a horse, brush his back to clean off any dirt, mud, or debris that could end up under the saddle and cause discomfort or irritation. Place the saddle pad or blanket well forward of the proper position, then slide it back into place. Never slide it forward; this ruffles the hair the wrong way and can create a sore.
Put on the saddle gently; don’t swing it up and flop it on the horse. Dropping it onto his back may startle him, causing him to jump forward or set back. If he jumps, he not only causes the saddle to end up in the wrong place on his back, but he also may crash into you or set back on his tie rope and create a dangerous situation. The saddle may fall underneath him, spooking him even more.
Don’t let the off stirrup bang against him as you put on the saddle. With a Western saddle, hook the off stirrup over the saddle horn to keep it from flopping down on his off side; with an English saddle, keep the stirrup irons run up close to the saddle until the saddle is in place. Position the cinch or girth over the saddle seat so it won’t flop down either. Once the saddle is situated, go around to the off side and lower the stirrup and girth, and make sure the girth is straight.
If you are using a Western saddle with a rear cinch, always fasten the front cinch first, so the saddle is secure before you fasten the rear one, in case the horse moves. Fasten a rear cinch so it’s snug but not tight. You don’t want it to irritate the horse, but you also don’t want so much slack in it that the horse could stick a foot through it while kicking at a fly.
BREAST COLLARS AND CRUPPERS
Breast collars and cruppers help keep a saddle in place if a horse’s back is not conformed to hold a saddle well. A breast collar (which fastens to the front of the saddle and goes around the front of the horse, beneath the neck) keeps the saddle from sliding back too far when the horse is going uphill. A crupper (which fastens to the back of the saddle and lies along the top of the rump, going under the base of the tail) keeps the saddle from sliding too far forward and onto the neck when the horse is going downhill. When riding a horse with very low withers, or a mule (which has almost no withers), a crupper is very helpful.
If your saddle has a breast collar, fasten it after you cinch up the saddle. Then if the horse moves or jumps around while you are saddling, the breast collar won’t be the only thing holding the saddle. Adjust the breast collar so it’s not so tight that it restricts the horse’s ability to lower his head. And make sure it’s not too loose either, or it will drop down below the point of his shoulder and inhibit the action of his front legs.
When unsaddling, take the above steps in reverse order: unhook the breast collar first, before loosening the cinch or girth.
The same steps should be used when adding a crupper. Fasten it last when saddling, and unhook it first when taking off the saddle.
Breast Collar
Crupper
When cinching up, do it slowly and gradually. If you cause him pain, your horse may set back or reach around to bite you. Cinching a horse too tight and too fast will make him resentful of being cinched in the future. He may then hold his breath to keep it from being too tight (in other words, the saddle will be loose when he lets out his breath). Check the girth again just before you mount, to make sure it’s snug, and check it again after you’ve ridden the horse for a few minutes. It should be tight enough that your saddle will not slip or turn, but not so tight that you can’t get a couple of fingers under it.
If you make bridling and saddling a pleasant experience for the horse, he’ll be more apt to have good manners and stand quietly for this routine. You won’t have to worry that he will try to pull back or move around to avoid the saddle or bridle — and possibly stomp on your feet or pin you against a fence or stall wall.
Saddle Fit
The saddle should fit both horse and rider. Make sure the stirrups are not too long or too short so you have the proper leg contact. You should be able to put weight in the stirrups and get your heels down and still be able to stand in the stirrups and be up out of the saddle. The saddle seat should be of proper size: A seat too small is uncomfortable and won’t distribute your weight evenly on the horse. A seat that’s too large makes it more difficult for you to keep proper position and balance on the horse.
The saddle should be the proper width for the horse. Some horses have a narrow back and high withers; others have a wide back and low withers. A wide saddle on a narrow horse will sit too low, rubbing his withers and making them sore; a narrow saddle on a wide horse will perch precariously and may possibly pinch the horse.
Unsaddling
To take off an English saddle, run the stirrup irons up and put the girth over the seat. With a Western saddle, put the off stirrup, cinch, and latigo over the seat so that when you pull the saddle off, the stirrup and cinch won’t be dragged over the horse’s back or on the ground. If the saddle has a breast collar, tie-down, crupper, or martingale, fasten these after you tighten the cinch or girth when saddling, and unfasten them first when unsaddling. You want everything else unfastened from the horse before you loosen and unfasten the cinch or girth.
Don’t let a horse drag his reins. If he isn’t trained to stand still for unsaddling, take off his bridle first and tie him with a halter while you unsaddle and put away equipment. Never let him wander around with a bridle on. A horse dragging his reins may step on them and break them. An inexperienced horse should not be allowed to graze with a bit in his mouth. If he’s not accustomed to eating with a bit, he may get grass wadded in and not be able to chew it. Horses have been known to choke when stuffing too much grass or hay into their mouths while wearing a bit.
SAFETY TIP
Unfasten the rear cinch first on a Western saddle with double rigging. You risk serious injury if you unfasten the forward cinch first and the horse jumps or moves. The saddle would then be held only by the rear cinch and could slip backward, causing the cinch to drop around his flanks — a sensitive area on most horses.
Safe Foot Handling
When handling a foot, the more contact you have with the horse, the better. Not only are you more adequately braced against him for holding the leg, but you can also sense his mood and be able to anticipate any movement he might make. When picking up a foot, encourage the horse to shift his weight to the other three legs by leaning your hand against him, then running your hand down the leg and gently squeezing the back tendon at the fetlock joint.
To pick up a front foot, run a hand down the back of the horse’s front leg, press your shoulder against his shoulder to encourage him to shift his weight off the foot, and squeeze gently at the fetlock joint if he doesn’t pick up the foot for you.
When you are holding a front foot to clean or treat it, your upper arm should touch the horse’s side. This gives you more leverage if you must lean against him and hold tightly to the foot to keep him from pulling it away. Keep your feet away from where he will put his foot back down, in case he puts it down faster than you anticipate. Take care never to be right in front of a leg as you bend over to work on the foot. The horse could unintentionally bump you just by picking up his foot, and his knee could hit your face.
When you are holding a hind foot, most of the horse’s leg should be in contact with your leg. If the horse tries to jerk it away from you, bend the foot (toe upward) and it will be harder for him to pull it away or kick you.
PICKING UP A HIND FOOT
To pick up a hind foot, lean against the horse as a signal for him to shift his weight, run a hand down his leg, and gently pinch the back tendon, if necessary, to encourage him to pick up his foot. Rest the hind foot against your thigh.
If he tries to pull his foot away, firmly bend the fetlock joint, pulling the toe upward. With the joint flexed, it will be more difficult for him to kick at you or pull away his foot.
Safety When Riding
The keys to a safe ride are being prepared and not asking more of your horse than he can give you. Be properly attired, and have your horse properly prepared. Use well-fitting tack. Don’t try to ride with just a halter or jump on him bareback unless he has been trained for this and is accustomed to being ridden this way. Most accidents happen when a rider tries something unplanned or foolish.
Safe Mounting and Dismounting
Always check the girth or cinch before mounting; it should be snug enough that the saddle will not turn. Take hold of the mane and reins with your left hand so you still have control over the horse if he starts to move before you are in the saddle. It’s better to hold on to the mane rather than the saddle; you are less apt to pull him off balance or pull the saddle toward you. This could happen on a round-backed horse if you use both hands on the saddle — pommel and cantle — to pull yourself up.
Facing the rear of the horse, turn the stirrup toward you with your right hand, place your foot in the stirrup, then use your hand to grasp the saddle as you spring up lightly. Swing your right leg over the horse, taking care to not bump or drag it across his rump, as this might startle him. Ease gently into the saddle; never plop down hard.
There are two proper ways to mount: standing facing the same direction as the horse and standing facing to the rear. The first works well on a horse who is well trained to stand; the second is better if there’s a possibility he might take a step forward as you mount. If he moves, he moves into you and you are still able to swing on; you are not left behind. If a horse habitually moves as you start to mount him, he needs some lessons in standing still (see chapter 9 and chapter 17).
Mounting, facing the same direction as the horse
Mounting, facing the rear of the horse
SAFETY TIP
Don’t mount inside a barn with a low roof or overhang. Mount in an open area away from fences, trees, vehicles, and other obstacles.
Whichever way you mount, keep a hand on the reins at all times and keep your horse under control. Don’t leave so much slack in the reins that you’d have to gather up a lot of rein before you could stop the horse. On the other hand, don’t have the reins so tight that you are putting pressure on the bit.
You should be able to check your horse with just a slight pull on the reins if he starts to move while you are mounting. If he is overeager, teach him to stand still while you mount. If you check him with the reins every time he starts to move, he’ll soon realize it’s easier to wait until you’re ready.
When dismounting, take both feet from the stirrups, lean slightly forward, swing your right leg over the horse’s back, and, in the same smooth motion, slide down. Don’t leave your left foot in the stirrup; this will get you in trouble if the horse moves when you have one foot on the ground and one still in the stirrup. It’s best to swing completely free and land lightly on your feet.
Take down the reins for leading the horse; don’t leave them up on his neck. If you are riding on an English saddle, run up the stirrup irons after dismounting so they won’t swing or bounce and bump you or the horse or catch on something.
Safe Rein Handling
When riding, keep the reins short enough so you can control the horse but sufficiently loose that you don’t bump him in the mouth. If the reins are too floppy, you won’t be able to check him if he decides to go faster or suddenly shies. If you’re using a snaffle bit, you’ll have a rein in each hand. When riding Western, with a curb bit, you will have both reins in your left hand.
Safe Halting
To slow or stop the horse, never give a steady pull or sharp jerk. The best way is to pull and release, pull and release, then release all pressure the instant he responds. Keep communication with the bit as smooth and comfortable as possible. He should experience discomfort from the bit only when he misbehaves.
PROPER FINGER POSITION
When using a snaffle and holding a rein in each hand, have the rein between your last two fingers or outside the little finger. When using two reins in one hand such as with a Pelham or double bridle and four reins or in one hand with a curb bit, the little finger divides the reins. When using a snaffle and one hand, divide the reins either by your little finger or by all four fingers, depending on the horse’s level of training and how widely separated you need the reins to be for your bit signals.
HOLDING THE REINS
With a snaffle bridle (two hands on the reins), the rein goes between your little finger and the next finger. Some riders prefer the rein outside the little finger.
When riding with one hand and four reins (double bridle or Pelham), the reins are divided by the fingers.
Using two reins in one hand (both reins in one hand when using a snaffle or Western curb; two reins in each hand using a double bridle or Pelham), the two reins are divided by the little finger.
When using one hand with a snaffle, the reins are often widely divided by all fingers, to give more flexibility for individual rein signals.
Exercise Good Judgment and Think Ahead
Consider the horse’s training level and your abilities; avoid situations that might get you into trouble. Don’t do fast work or play games on horseback unless you have prepared the horse with careful training. Always think first of the horse and how he might react to a new experience. Will a certain situation aid or hinder his training progress? Will it jeopardize your safety? If riding by yourself, let someone know where you are going and approximately when you will be back.
Consider the Weather
Some days are more challenging for working with horses, and not just because the weather is nasty and uncomfortable. Bad weather also creates hazardous conditions. Rain and snow may make footing unsafe and increase the risk of slipping and falling. Storms may make a horse more nervous and unpredictable, more unruly, and more likely to slip and fall because he is not under control.
Wind makes a horse nervous because everything is in motion. He is instinctively on the lookout for danger, prepared to leap and run from it. Motion, in his mind, could mean a predator creeping up behind him in the waving grass or poised to pounce on him from the wiggling bushes. When things are blowing about, he is keenly aware of every movement and becomes jumpy and anxious. Extremely windy days are not good for training a horse; he will be paying little attention to you. An inexperienced horse may be quite upset, and you could lose ground in training. It’s better to skip a lesson when the weather is bad; safety should always be your first consideration.
SAFETY TIP
If a storm is brewing and there might be lightning, skip the ride or lesson. The storm will be frightening to the horse, and lightning puts both you and the horse at risk.
No Dogs Allowed
Don’t take along a dog when training a green horse, even if the dog is well behaved and the horse is used to the dog. A dog may create a hazardous situation by attracting or fighting other dogs, causing a problem with traffic if you’re riding along a road, distracting you from keeping your attention focused on the horse, or running under your horse for protection from something that frightens him.
Footing and Terrain
Make your horse walk — do not allow him to trot or gallop — when you go through difficult terrain, creek crossings, bogs, or slippery or rocky footing. If you’re reckless when traveling where your horse might have bad footing, you increase the possibility that he could pull a shoe, strain a tendon, even break a leg. He might fall down and break your leg. Insecure footing makes a horse anxious; he may rush or scramble when he should be going cautiously.
Be careful when galloping or making a sharp turn on grassy sod. Grass that is wet is slippery. If the horse hits bad footing unexpectedly, he may not have time to catch himself. Think ahead, and adjust his speed when footing looks precarious.
Crossing water. Give your horse plenty of time to get through a bog or deep water. If he panics, he may strain a leg. When going through a stream — or any obstacle he hasn’t encountered before — he’ll be less afraid to cross if he sees other horses crossing. As they cross and continue on the trail, he will not want to be left behind. Be prepared, however, in case he tries to jump the obstacle or stream or lunge through it in a hurry.
Steep hillsides. Travel steep slopes at a walk. Don’t trot or gallop up a steep hill unless it is absolutely necessary. If the horse is not in top athletic condition, galloping up a steep hill may pull muscles. Keep him at a controlled gait. Don’t gallop downhill; a horse always has better balance, control, and traction at a trot rather than a gallop.
RIDING SAFETY
When crossing shallow streams, do not get off and try to lead the horse if he balks. He may lunge into you or try to jump onto the same rocks you are using.
When leading a horse up or down a hill, walk a little in front and to the side — never directly in front, in case he charges or falls. If going downhill, he may slide right into you. Be careful leading across a ditch or gully or up a steep bank. He may jump the gully and land on top of you or lunge up the bank. Don’t be in the way.
When snow is sticky and slippery, coat the bottom of your horse’s feet with margarine, lard, petroleum jelly, WD-40, or some other nonstick material to keep snow from packing into and balling up in the hoofs. This will allow better traction.
When descending a steep hill, stay on your horse, especially if the footing is bad. You are more apt to fall down than he is (he has four legs and better traction). Keep him going straight down the hill, and he will be able to stay on his feet, even if he slides. Don’t try to go down a steep slippery hill crooked or sideways, or his feet may slip out from under him.
The only time it might be safer to get off your horse and lead him than to stay on him is if he is very green and does not yet know how to handle himself going downhill with someone on his back. If you think an inexperienced horse may panic going up or down a steep hill, get off and lead him.
Pavement. Never trot or gallop on pavement or on hard-packed ground. Fast gaits on hard surfaces can cause lameness from the concussion and jarring, damaging the inner structures of the feet and legs. The constant pounding can cause splints, cracked hooves, even a broken bone or navicular disease.
If you must take your horse on pavement, walk. Pavement can be slippery even when dry for a horse shod with regular shoes. Shoes with traction devices such as toe and heel calks, studs, or borium can be even more dangerous. If the shoes provide traction for walking on rocky terrain, ice, or slippery grass, they increase the risk of damage to feet and legs when on pavement. There is no “give” to pavement, and the sudden stopping of the foot each time it is put down can create too much strain and concussion.
Safety When Riding in Groups
Keep your horse a safe distance from others to avoid accidents. Your horse may want to become chummy with another horse, but this often results in one of them getting bitten or kicked. A kicking horse could break a rider’s leg. Never let your horse rub on another horse or bite or kick; always keep some distance.
MARES IN HEAT
Some mares exhibit temperamental behavior when in heat and become more difficult to handle. A few are hard to work with even on the ground — they may become touchy while being groomed, for instance. A mare in heat is more commonly a challenge when you are riding with other horses. She may squeal and kick or strike at a strange horse who gets too close. Be careful when riding in groups if you are on a mare in heat or if there is a mare in heat in the group. Keep a safe distance from other horses.
If your horse is inclined to kick when another horse comes up behind him, tie a red ribbon in his tail, a warning to other riders that he kicks. A green ribbon means he is inexperienced — also a signal to other riders to give him more room.
When following other horses, yours may become more difficult to control if he falls behind and begins fretting and prancing, wanting to catch up. This can be dangerous going through timber or up and down hills; he may charge through the trees — putting you at risk for a branch across the eyes — or rush down a hill paying no attention to footing. If your fellow riders know you are on a nervous or inexperienced horse, or if anyone else in the group is on a green horse, good manners will have the other riders wait for the green horse to catch up. Ride at the speed or gait that is safest and most comfortable for the least skilled rider or the greenest horse in the group.
Arena Etiquette
Horses circling to the left have the right of way when several riders are in the same arena. Slower-moving horses should stay in from the rail and allow faster-traveling horses to go by them on the outside; the fast horses will not have to swerve away from the rail to get around the slow horses. Don’t block another rider; always look behind you when stopping or turning.
Trail Etiquette
Don’t hold up the line. If the group is crossing a stream and your horse wants to drink, move to one side. If you have to tighten your cinch, get off the trail to do so. If someone in your group must get off, wait for him, or for any lagging rider, or for the person shutting a gate, so he is not left behind with an upset horse. When riding in brushy country or through trees, be careful not to let branches snap back into the next rider’s face.
Keep a safe distance. Many problems can be avoided if all riders in a group keep a safe distance between horses. When traveling single file, keep at least one horse length between you and the next horse when walking (you should be able to easily see the horse’s feet ahead of you; if you can’t, you are too close) and a two-horse space when trotting. When riding side by side, maintain at least 12 feet between horses. This will usually prevent horses from nipping or making faces at one another or kicking, which is often more dangerous for the riders than for the horses.
No fast gaits. Most horseback accidents occur when riders use poor judgment. It’s wiser to travel at a walk or trot than a gallop when riding with other horsemen. Racing can be especially dangerous. A race for fun on a racetrack with good footing may be fine if horses are well trained and controllable and you keep a safe space between them, but it is dangerous to race anywhere else.
A smooth-looking open field may have uneven ground, gopher holes, or hidden rocks that could cause injury if your horse stumbled or fell. Much can happen when a horse is going at top speed. Racing can make a horse nervous or bad mannered, and he may want to race whenever there are other horse-men riding with you.
Don’t Tie Horses Close Together
At home you may tie horses near one another if they get along well, but never tie strange horses close enough to kick one another. To be safe always maintain three body lengths between them. Never let a loose horse wander among tied horses; if you do, there will be horse fights and broken ropes or bridles.
Safety When Riding along Roads with Traffic
A road can be a dangerous place to ride, but sometimes you have no choice. Often it’s safest to ride on the left edge, facing the oncoming traffic, so you always see what’s coming and no vehicle can rush up behind you. In some states, however, horses are considered vehicles rather than pedestrians and must travel on the right — in the same direction as traffic. Whichever side you ride on, don’t take a horse on a busy road until he is far enough along in training to stay under control and has experience with vehicles. (Getting a horse accustomed to traffic is covered in chapter 8, which discusses early training of a driving horse learning to pull a cart, and in chapter 10, which discusses first training rides out in the open.)
If you are traveling in a group along a main road, travel single file, even when there’s little traffic. On a back road with no traffic, move into single file as soon as you see or hear a car coming, with all riders going to the same side of the road to get out of the way. If a noisy truck or frightening vehicle approaches, try to find a wide spot where you can get your horse clear off the road. As a last resort, if you are on a skittish horse who might whirl into the path of a vehicle, dismount and hold him until the vehicle is safely past.
How to Stop a Bolting Horse
To control a horse who gets up speed before you can stop him, quickly shorten your reins, brace a hand against his neck, grab the other rein close to the bit, and give a strong, quick pull to bring his head around by your knee, thus pulling him in a tight circle. If the terrain is such that you can’t circle (for example, if it’s slippery or rocky) or if you put yourself at risk by circling (on a road with traffic, on a trail through trees, in a group of horses), pull strongly up and back with one rein while bracing with the other hand.
Emergency Dismount
If you need to do an emergency dismount at any gait, first slip both feet out of the stirrups. Lean forward with your hands on the horse’s neck or on the pommel of the saddle, swing a leg over his back, and slide or jump off, pushing up and away from the horse as you leave him, in order to land safely away from him. Land on the balls of your feet with your knees bent, moving in the same direction as the horse to avoid too much jarring. Remember to keep hold of the reins, so you will still have your horse, unless he’s traveling through terrain where it would be unsafe to pull him around too quickly. Sometimes it’s best to just bail off and let him keep going.
For the emergency dismount, slip both feet out of the stirrups, lean forward, swing a leg over the horse’s back, then slide or jump off. Land with your knees bent, and move in the same direction as the horse to minimize the risk of injury.