Military history

- Chapter 34 -

The Tigerfibel

Original front cover translation

Man – what a machine!

Original page 1 translation

For Commanders and Tiger men.

Tiger primer...what a quick thing!

Original page 2 translation

Handles like a car!

With two fingertips you can steer

· 700 horsepower

· 60 tons of steel

· 45 km per hour top speed on surfaced roads

· 20 km per hour in rough terrain

· Travel 4 m under water

Original page 3 translation

Will blast anything to pieces!

On the northern front in the course of one day Lieutenant M. destroyed 38 T-34 tanks. In recognition he was awarded the Knights Cross.

Original page 4 translation

Will withstand anything!

This Tiger tank serving on the southern sector endured these hits within a period of six hours:

· 227 hits by anti-tank rounds

· 14 hits by 52mm shells

· 11 hits by 76.2mm shells

Not one of the above penetrated its armor!

Inside the tracks, the rollers and links had been heavily damaged.

Two crank arms were no longer operating.

Several shots from anti-tank guns hit directly on the tracks. The tank had rolled over three mines.

This tank negotiated a further 60 km of rough terrain under its own power.

Original page 5 translation

Never conquered by external forces, but single-handedly beaten from within...

DANGER lurks in the sump!

Remember then:

Study your Tiger primer well, or your Tiger goes to hell!

Original page 7 translation

Motto: A morose attitude won’t reach the goal

The Tigerman learns with humour

Moral: Even moralists for their preachings

Are sometimes immoral, despite their teachings

The Tiger Tank Manual

Published on 8/1/1943 by

THE CHIEF OF STAFF OF THE TANK CORPS

Original page 8 translation

CHIEF OF STAFF

TANK CORPS

Headquarters, 8/1/1943

I authorize the Tiger Tank Manual

Guderian

Original page 11 translation

The Driver

“Gustav the land rover”

You drive a tank which has few opponents worthy of note, but also very few brothers. It is up to you whether the Tiger is transformed into a predator waiting to pounce or into a heap of scrap metal.

Original page 13 translation

Motto: Attention to detail makes a good job perfect;

a good job is no minor detail.

A runner will take two hours to warm up for the competition. If he does not, the best equipment and the most vigorous training are valueless.

FUEL

POWER

WATER

STARTER

6 x OIL CHECK

OIL PRESSURE

IDLING

The driver of a Tiger tank needs two hours to get his vehicle moving.

Otherwise it will break down because of a minor problem.

Prevention is easier than cure. Therefore, before starting, pay attention to:

FUEL - POWER - WATER - STARTING

6 x CHECK OIL - OIL PRESSURE - WAITING

Original page 14 translation

Motto: Oh friend, fuel has two sides,

on the one hand it propels you, on the other you fly with it!

Fuel is a propellant: If fuel evaporates and is then mixed with air and ignited in small quantities it will move all 60 tons of the Tiger along the road. It does so by repeated small explosions, in the same way that a child might roll a wheel using a stick, by continuously striking the wheel.

One litre in the fuel tank will propel the Tiger a distance of 200 meters. The strength of a giant is harnessed in that portion, but it is spread over half a minute just like a massage. And the Tiger likes that.

Fuel is an explosive: If that same litre of fuel flows into the sump and not through the carburetor, then the fuel will evaporate by way of engine heat, mix with the air circulating in the engine bay and suddenly ignite at a hot spot or through a spark.

In this way just this one litre will blow up your Tiger as if the giant’s force is applied at once in a single knock out blow, which even your Tiger cannot withstand. The engine and your own roof will fly up higher in the air than you can throw a stone.

Original page 15 translation

Therefore: Refuel - but do not spill, otherwise the Tiger will burn or burst.

Attention! If fuel is running low - immediately switch to reserve, if the fuel reservoir is used up stop immediately and shut off the engine - 30 seconds worth of effort.

However, if you do not maintain fuel in the lines and the fuel pump runs empty, after refueling no fuel will flow through it: You must then remove the air filter and housing, remove the access screws at the carburetor, prime with the electric fuel pump all of this without causing a spill! Then you must reinstall everything - One hour of work.

· Close the lid for the fuel tank, but keep the vent open.

Otherwise the engine will have no pickup.

· Keep fuel canisters and hoses clean, do not remove the filter.

Otherwise the sight glass and jets will get dirty, both of which can be reached only with great difficulty for repair.

· Clean sight glass of dirt and moisture, do not damage the seals, if in doubt replace seals, insert properly, tighten cap nut.

Otherwise the Tiger will burn or burst.

Original page 16 translation

Fuel lines and pumps must be checked for leaks. Fittings and lines must be tightened carefully. Do not cock the cone seal, it will work itself loose in the course of operation - Otherwise the Tiger will burn or bust.

Carburetor

The main jet must be cleaned with care. Blow air through the jet when finished. Check if the needle returns from the seat immediately. It must not stick or be damaged - Otherwise, the engine backfires at idle.

In case of fire

The warning light next to the driver’s lookout will illuminate and the fire control apparatus will spray liquid. If it does not, the gunner must press the button on the fire extinguisher. You must immediately shut off fuel supply to the engine. Do not open to full throttle position as with other vehicles - Otherwise the gases intended to extinguish the flames will be removed by the blowers. The liquid dispensed by the fire extinguisher will not put out the flames except as a pressurised gas.

Extinguisher jets

Must aim at the temperature sensors - Otherwise, the apparatus will continue and dispense all liquid at the first outbreak of fire. It is designed to extinguish for seven seconds each time, on five different occasions.

Temperature sensors

And lines must not be damaged when working on the engine. The fire extinguisher must be exchanged for a new one as soon as the pressure falls below 4 atmospheres. Check the fuses - Otherwise you must use the manual fire extinguisher.

Cause of fire

Is always fuel or oil in the sump. Check all the lines at once - Otherwise it will happen again!

Moral: If fuel is leaking from your lines it will explode underneath you.

Original page 17 translation

Motto: He who treats his batteries with great care,

will receive benefit in return!

They are your best comrades.

They start your engine as the bullets fly outside. They fire off your shells, they clear the smoke! They light your way in the dark and in fog, they allow you to communicate despite the noise of battle, you broadcast and receive up to a distance of 10 km!

Give them an extra charge often!

So that they stay fully charged!

Keep them warm-hearted towards you!

A charged battery will freeze at -65°C, a discharged battery will freeze at just -10°C. Discharge can very easily happen. Voltage and charge decrease faster as the cold increases outside. Charge them with some electricity anytime you have a surplus, so they can support you when you are running short.

Use distilled water or boiled water. In the wintertime melted snow may be used in emergencies. Fill up until the plates are covered plus one finger’s width. Keep the clamps free of acid, tighten them firmly and cover them with grease - Otherwise the battery will gunk up or fail!

In winter use the manual inertia starter to turn and start the engine. It is actually a lot less effort than taking out the batteries and recharging them! If the voltage falls below 11 volts or the Tiger has been parked in the cold for a long time - take the batteries out and look after them! Otherwise they may fail.

12 volts! Do not let the charge fall under 11 volts. To check connect voltmeter between the ground and the fuse for high beam. Turn on high beams. When checking with the hydrometer, if mark at 1.285 = charged, 1.15 = empty. Do not create a short circuit, do not change battery polarity. Otherwise the plates will become distorted!

Moral: So runs the old tale, he who is full will not freeze pale!

Original page 18 translation

Motto: Water is a benevolent power

as long as you remembered the antifreeze!

Water is a coolant, like a fresh shower, the water flushes through the case and removes the heat accrued by combustion and friction, and carrying it to the radiators. Additionally, in the winter time the hot water will preserve engine heat making it easier to start again, much like a battery holds a charge.

The Tiger needs 120 litres of water. He feels great at 85°C.

Anytime you are thirsty, give some water to the good animal too, and make it clean water. If you can get the coolant additive “Akorol”, put it in, but be careful, Akorol can be a poison too. Like a vigilant hawk it will guard against rust and mineral deposits.

Water

Water is an explosive, when freezing to ice it expands by 10%. If the engine walls cannot flex, they are cracked under the enormous pressure. Ice is used to break iron and rock.

Those 120 litres will then turn to 132 litres, and they have no place to go. Not even in the Tiger’s belly!

Therefore:

Fill up, until the water level touches the bottom of the filter, check the hose clamps and lines, check especially on the bottom connecting the radiators.

Original page 19 translation

95°C - attention! That is too hot. The oil ceases to lubricate and you can start looking for a new engine. Stop immediately and check:

1. Is there enough water in the radiators?

2. Are the blowers working?

3. Are the sliding clutches operating?

4. The oil cooler must be sealing tight!

Otherwise the engine will seize up!

In the wintertime a hot toddy is best mixed a little more on the stiff side. When it is cold, mix the water with antifreeze. Otherwise the engine will crack!

Here is the infamous recipe from the ice bar:

2 Litres of antifreeze per 3 litres of water.

Down to -20°C that’s:

48 Litres of antifreeze + 72 Litres of water = 120 Litres

Down to -40°C that’s:

72 Litres of antifreeze + 48 Litres of water = 120 Litres

Constantly check the cooling system, because antifreeze loosens all deposits. But do not mix antifreeze with the additive “Akorol”.

Open the filler cap cover. Drain the water hot, through a rubber hose attached to the drain cock. Before refilling flush the cooling system and tighten the drain cock with gasket installed.

- After a week again drain hot, let sit for three hours, so that rust and sludge can settle, refill using a rag as filter; check and water level each time after working on the engine.

Otherwise the radiator will leak.

Moral: The Tiger drinks the water most like you and spirits.

Original page 20 translation

Motto: A cross-country skier takes his time to prepare,

if he starts hastily he won’t make it there.

Before the start the runner will check the soles of his shoes and laces with care. Even millimeters make a difference.

Before starting out, carefully check the position of all levers. One look must tell you if everything is okay. They are all essential for survival.

1. Fire extinguisher

2. Fusebox

Original page 21 translation

Bottom plug - open - so that the gases can vent, at the same time keep rear cover open, so that fresh air can circulate. Close only when driving in or through water, mud or upon entering an engagement - Otherwise the Tiger will blow up!

Fuel valves - open - Fuel tanks must be empty one after the other. If fuel runs out, immediately turn off the engine. - Otherwise, see “fuel”.

Main battery switch - on - It turns off all appliances - Otherwise you cannot start!

Blower switch - “land” - The blowers must be turned off under water - Otherwise the engine overheats!

Fuel vent - “land” - While under water the tanks are vented into the engine bay - Otherwise to the outside.

Throttle #1 - down - this regulates air flow in the duct between blower and transmission - Otherwise the transmission overheats.

Throttle #2 - “land” - It directs the hot air from the transmission to the blowers or into the engine bay - Otherwise the engine overheats.

Throttle #3 - open - It pushes the hot engine air to the blowers - Otherwise the engine overheats.

Vent flap - closed - Open only together with the front hatch - Otherwise engine bay air enters the vehicle.

Fuel pump - on - So that the carburetor has fuel as you start - Otherwise the battery discharges.

Directional lever - on “0” - forward = lever forward, reverse = lever back - Otherwise the tank moves on starting.

Ignition key - in - Do not turn, turn off other appliances - Otherwise the battery discharges.

Choke lever - forward - So that the mixture is enriched. Take your foot off the throttle when starting - Otherwise it will not start.

Clutch - depress - So that the starter motor does not break between attempts at starting the engine - Otherwise the battery discharges.

Starter button - push - Push longer, take longer breaks between attempts at starting the engine - Otherwise the battery will discharge.

Starter button - release - as soon as the engine starts - Otherwise the starter motor suffers.

Choke lever - reverse - As soon as the engine runs smoothly and evenly - Otherwise the spark plugs foul.

Throttle - touch lightly for five minutes, so that the warning lamp flickers. Do not race the engine - Otherwise it will stall.

Clutch - engage slowly, so that transmission and steering gear become warm to the touch - Otherwise no gear change.

Throttle - push in to warm up the engine. Increase engine speed to within 1000 and 1500 rpm - Otherwise the spark plugs foul.

Original page 22 translation

In the wintertime...

The oil gets thick, so much so that it can hardly be called a liquid. Shafts lock in their bearings, pistons clamp to the cylinder walls. It takes an enormous amount of force to separate these parts and move them until the engine oil gets warm and liquid. Although the Tiger can be started immediately at temperatures down to -20°C using the electric starter motor, use the manual inertia starter instead to crank over and start the engine. Save the batteries - Otherwise you cannot start when the bullets fly outside.

When it is very cold...

One Tiger can warm up the other. The hot engine coolant in one engine is pumped into a cold engine. At the same time the cold engine is warmed up. After this procedure, be sure to check that normal operation has been reinstated - Otherwise the Tiger will explode.

Blowers...

Must be shut off, so that the engine heats up faster. Watch the thermometer carefully - Otherwise the engine will boil over like a pot full of soup.

Inject...

If the manual inertia starter does not start the engine - Otherwise you will lose faith and time.

In the tropics...

And in high summer conditions the blowers must be set at high speed - Otherwise the engine overheats.

Manual inertia starter...

Swing with the hand crank in clockwise direction. Swiftly engage the crank and hold it until the engine starts, then immediately release the crank!

If the pinion does not mesh, repeat the engagement of the crank. Do not engage the crank when the engine is running!

To exchange engine coolant...

A. Fill the hoses.

1. Shut off the engine.

2. Attach the hoses to the red fittings.

3. Shut off radiators through the in line Valves.

4. Shut off blowers, remove the radiator cap.

5. Run the engine, hold up the hose, work the plunger at the open end until water flows out.

6. Replace lost water and antifreeze.

B. Exchange the coolant.

1. Shut off engine as soon as it reaches 60°C coolant temperature.

2. Connect the hoses so that each one connects a red and a green fitting.

3. Once more close the valves in the coolant lines of the warm engine. Turn off the blowers, remove the radiator caps.

4. Run the engine at 2400 rpm, then at 2000 rpm. Until the cold engine has reached a coolant temperature of 50°C.

5. Shut off the engine, open the coolant lines, turn on the blowers, close the radiator caps.

Selector...

on the blower transmission must be loosened and switched back to position “increased cooling”, then tightened.

Moral: A little warm drink and after a while

even a frigid one will cut a dash

Original page 24 translation

6 x Check Oil

Motto: Oil blocks the heat of the sun

For the Tiger it’s bliss.

Oil is a lubricant

Even just rubbing your hands one against the other will cause them both to become hot. You need not even rub quickly or use much effort. But, if sufficient skin oil is placed between your hands, they stay cool. Your machine does 3000 rotations per minute with 700 horsepower behind it. It would get burning hot, all moving parts would size up before you had gone one kilometer, if the oil did not take up the heat and disperse it away.

A low oil level is dangerous.

Oil is a combustible

If it leaks from your lines, or is discharged from moving driveshafts, or drips from damaged seals and mixes with fuel, it will burn furiously and set other pools of fuel and the remaining sludge in the sump on fire»

Too much oil is dangerous.

Therefore:

Original page 25 translation

1. Fill the Engine - with 28 L engine oil - up to maximum level at upper mark, Minimum level at lower mark - Otherwise the spark plugs foul. You will use lots of oil and maybe lose an engine.

2. Fill the Transmission - with 30 L of transmission oil - until the measuring rod just touches the oil level - Otherwise you can neither change gears nor steer.

3. Fill the Right reduction gear - with 6 L transmission oil - remove small inspection bolt - If you fill up too much or too little, both conditions are equally bad.

4. Fill the Left reduction gear - with 6 L transmission oil - fill up until the oil flows over

5. Fill the Turret drive - with 5 L transmission oil - fill up until level is one finger’s width under fill plug hole - Otherwise you cannot traverse the turret!

6. Fill the Blower drive - with 7 L transmission oil - only up to upper level with the engine turned off - Otherwise the oil is thrown onto the exhaust manifold cover.

Oil level:

Too much oil is just as bad as too little! With the engine running at 1000 rpm and warmed up, to 50°C coolant temperature measure the oil level and fill up to the proper level. Repeat the process after traveling 5 km, if possible - Otherwise the amount of oil in the engine will be incorrect.

Do not lose oil:

Check that the seals are in excellent shape. Tighten the fill- and drainplugs. Check all lines to discover leaks. Check the oil for signs of foaming and oil discharge at radial seals. Clean the bottom of the sump, drain through the bottom plug - Otherwise the Tiger will burn.

Oil change:

Change the oil before and after the winter, also within specified intervals. Change it especially after performing engine repairs - Otherwise a new engine must be installed.

In the winter time:

You can run the military engine oil labeled (winter) without a problem down to temperatures of -30°C. Below 30°C you must drain 4 Litres of engine oil while the engine is warm to the touch. Substitute 4 Litres of petrol for the oil drained off. Mix the oil and petrol by running the engine at fast idle for a short period - Otherwise you will freeze up.

After driving for three hours:

The petrol in the oil will have evaporated as long as the engine was above -60°C and warm. You can keep moving but must replenish the 4 Litres of petrol with the engine running, before shutting it off. Whether or not all the petrol has evaporated can be checked against the bubble meter. The transmission oil for the military is effective up to minus 40°C, therefore it need not be thinned out - Otherwise the next morning the engine will be frozen up.

Moral: It will seize up if you don’t lubricate,

if you lose it, you will incinerate

Original page 26 translation

Oil Pressure

Motto: Only with his blood under full pressure

will the Tiger show his strength to full measure.

The correct amount of oil alone is not sufficient. Oil in the reservoir is just as useless as beer in the cellar, if there is no pressure to pump it upstairs to the parched throats of the consumers. Only then will the place start swinging. Only then can you change gears up and down with a clatter, throw up the dust and swing your turret like a flag in the wind.

The oil pressure gauge:

With the engine running, the gauge must show a pressure of at least 3 atmospheres. When on the move 7 atmospheres is the right pressure. If a line bursts or gets clogged or if the bearing clearance has become too large, the pressure will fall. In that case you must immediately shut off the engine. - Otherwise the engine will seize up.

The oil filter for the engine oil must be cleaned with each oil change or, even better, more frequently.

1. Remove lid, remove filter pack.

2. Loosen the wing nut, remove the filter plates and separator plates one by one.

3. The housing and the separator plates must be cleaned in petrol. Caution! The petrol contains lead and will damage the skin.

4. To install, first slide one filter plate, then in alteration one separator- and one filter plate over the suction pipe. Then install the top plate and press the assembly in place with the wingnut.

5. Install the filter pack. Do not forget the top pressure spring!

Moral: As one learns in life,

a certain pressure produces the right atmosphere!

Original page 27 translation

Moral: You’ll find the fittings, even through the grime,

by looking at the lube chart every time.

Before the race, a runner will run around the track a few times in order to warm up. If he starts cold he may tear tendons, but he will not break records.

Idling

Before moving off, the Tiger’s driver will let his engine idle, in the summer for 5 minutes, in the winter for 15 minutes, until the engine coolant temperature reaches 50°C, the transmission is warm to the touch and the oil pressure has risen to 3 atmospheres - Otherwise the bearings will be shot!

Run at fast idle so that the engine turns between 1000 and 1500 rpm. Do not remain at base idle - Otherwise the spark plugs foul.

Do not be hasty, wait on the Tiger!

Regular service procedures: Lubrication

Those who take care of themselves are ahead of all others. Rather more often and thoroughly should the crème for day and night be applied. - Otherwise you’ll get in trouble with your supply sergeant.

Moral: The movie star powders and paints,

the driver pays attention to the chassis.

Original page 28 translation

B. Engine

Motto: Air will give - by compression

the proper explosion upon ingestion.

Dust is your enemy!

If you go a distance of 7 Km, your wide tracks will throw up the dust from 1 hectare of land. You will be spotted from far away and will lose your most effective weapon - surprise.

Dust is your arch-enemy!

As you are traveling these 7 kilometers, your Tiger uses 170,000 litres of the same dirty air against which you are holding your breath.

Within 15 minutes it must breathe in as much dust as you would breathe in during a period of ten days spent riding on the back of the tank, where the air contains the highest concentration of dust.

Both of your filters must digest all that dusty air. They are your only weapons against this deadly foe.

Original page 29 translation

The air filter

Catches dust like a flycatcher catches flies. But as soon as it is covered or saturated completely, it is useless. The air then enters the cylinders almost without having been filtered at all, the fine dust is ground between cylinder walls and pistons, constantly working like sand paper. With increasing wear the consumption of petrol and oil rises because the pistons are banging inside the cylinders.

In addition, a saturated filter allows insufficient air to go through. The engine now draws in an increasing amount of petrol, which in turn washes the lubricating oil off the cylinder walls. For the second time wear is increased together with fuel consumption, this time due to a lack of lubrication.

Both factors multiply each other, soon causing a breakdown. A new engine must be installed.

In action your Maybach engine will serve you for 5000 km, if you give it clean air. Otherwise it will not even last 500 km.

Therefore:

Clean the air filter after covering any distance which involved any generation of dust!

Loosen the wingnut, remove the filter from the intake air duct, and take the assembly off the tank. Remove the lid, and then remove the insert. Wash the filter and the housing in petrol. (Caution, poison!) Dry thoroughly afterwards. Fill up used engine oil to the red mark. Install the insert, watch for a good seal. Clamp on the lid. Install the housing evenly and tightly on the intake air duct and fasten the wingnut… do not forget the wire gauze inserts.

Original page 30 translation

Four two barrel carburetors

They faithfully feed your engine, but they demand care and attention from you! Do not drill or scrape with needles or wires, use pliers and a splinter of wood instead. Do not overtighten the lid!

Clean them often and pay special attention to:

· The fuel level (drain by unscrewing main jet).

· The main venturi, it must be installed so that “38” or “40”can be read from the top.

· The center ring, it must rest squarely on the main venturi. (The center atomizer must not be installed too high or too low).

· The throttle valves, they must close tightly.

· The floats, they must not be dented and they must hang free without binding.

· The linkage, it must fit into the throttle levers without binding.

· Also, that the side opening for the idle screw and all passages in the carburetor housing are free - otherwise the engine jerks and backfires.

· Avoid vacuum leaks by attending to immaculate gaskets and sealing surfaces - otherwise the engine has no pickup.

Think of the idle speed!

Turn the air screws in pairs all the way in then turn out until the engine runs smoothly, retain the idle speed setting by fastening the limiter screw on the air pipe - otherwise the engine will only start with difficulty.

Original page 31 translation

Correct fuel level in the fuel bowl.

Remove the air horn and lay the lower index finger on the edge of the float bowl, The finger tip must get wet when doing this - otherwise, you will search forever for the defect.

Your guardsman in the engine is the engine speed governor,

· He helps you when the Tiger needs better pickup.

· He warns you, should you be driving carelessly, not watching the oil pressure gauge.

· He checks your temper when you race the engine.

Because, up to 1900 rpm, you are running on only four carburetors, those of the first stage. The first stage forms the forward part of the carburetors two barrels. It is easily identified by the limiter on the throttle valve.

If the engine speed is increased over 1900 rpm, the second stage is opened by means of the centrifugal governor and oil pressure. The second stage is used for engine speeds between 1900 and 2800 rpm.

They close again as soon as 2800 rpm are exceeded.

If the engine has insufficient oil pressure, a bypass will prevent higher engine speeds - your ailing Tiger must only be driven into the repair shop.

Jet-limerick:

...The wrong idle jet will take its toll, remember, number sixty five is your friend! For the first stage, to learn you should strive one-five-zero, two-thirty-five: For the second remember without thinking: two-twenty-five and two-hundred!

1. main jets (size 235 - 225)

2. idle air jets (size 150 - 200)

3. emulsion tubes

4. main venturi (size 38 - 40)

5. center atomizer

6. float bowl

7. air horn

8. throttle valves

Moral: When the engine jerks and hisses,

it’s the carburetor, without doubt.

Original page 32 translation

C. Drive Train

Motto: Power will only come of applied force,

when directed properly.

The sliding gear transmission is a thoroughbred race horse. It changes its pace with steady and natural swiftness after very little pressure is applied. You must care for it by the book and keep the linkages properly adjusted. Otherwise it will buck like a full blood whose reins are wrong and whose leash is not properly hung.

Original page 33 translation

Therefore, Transmission:

1. Check the oil level, frequently. Clean the oil filter.

2. Turn the wingnut by hand to the right until the clutch is released after a free travel of only 6 mm. Make a gauge from a twig for the 6 mm measurement.

3. Adjust the limiter on the foot-operated lever, so that the wingnut still travels upwards.

4. The connecting lever to the relay box must be seated without play once the foot-operated clutch lever has traveled through its free play of 6 mm. (See measurement #2).

5. Adjust the lever on the accelerator shaft so that the engine will reach maximum speed when the accelerator linkage is moved to the wide-open throttle position by hand.

6. The linkage on the selector lever must release securely for each gear.

7. Lubricate the linkages and keep them from binding, so that they may swiftly and securely return to the disengaged position.

8. There must always be some play in the cables to the steering rods.

9. Clean the steering valve, when steering trouble is encountered. The sealing surfaces must be cleaned of any dust particles once the valve plate is pressed in.

10. Retighten the mounting bolts for the sliding gear transmission. - Otherwise you cannot shift gears.

Drive shafts: Tighten the nuts fastening the drive shaft flanges frequently. - Otherwise the drive shafts will come apart.

Original page 34 translation

The friction surface on the brake itself cannot be replaced. It is glued on, not riveted. You must change the entire disc including the friction surface. To do so: Loosen the intermediate shaft and lever, remove the brake from the brake carrier, and loosen the screws on the lid together with the brake housing. Readjust them often with a special wrench (21 E 2799 U 15) and replace the radial seal as soon as oil enters through the brake retainer. - Otherwise they heat up and produce smoke.

Auxiliary transmission (steering gear), check the seals. If oil is being discharged, they must be replaced immediately.

When your Tiger is traveling 33 km/hour, it has the same thrust as your armor piercing shell#40 flying at the speed of 3300 km/hour.

If you step on the brake this thrust must be absorbed by the friction surface of the brake disc. The Tiger stops after traveling a distance of 12 meters.

If the grenade hits, the armor plate must absorb the whole impact, even 20 cm of steel do not offer sufficient resistance. A braking distance of 20 cm is not enough.

Therefore, the friction surface on the brake must sustain what 20 cm of armor plate cannot. Think of that every time you use the brakes.

Therefore: A free play of 13 mm must be adjusted on the brake. With the brake loose, you can insert a feeler gauge into the inspection cavity. If the free play is above specifications you must readjust the linkage by one further hole.

Original page 35 translation

D. Running Gear

Motto: One thinks, upon discovering a broken track:

I should have checked, now we must slink back.

Tension of the tracks is extremely important! On top, the track runs to the front with twice the vehicle speed, going 45 km/hour, that’s 90! If you do not properly preload the track it will slam onto the drive wheels with a force of 18 tons when steering or braking. The track should hang four fingers’ width over the top of the first roller adjacent to the drive wheel. When adjusting the preload check the limiter stops and do not overtension them, - Otherwise the engine must be removed.

Check bolts and nuts on the drive wheel, also on the rollers and the guide wheel. Retighten as necessary. Take care not to damage the sheet-metal locks or replace the locks. - Otherwise, the wheels fly off by themselves!

In the winter time all the rollers must turn freely. Thaw them with a blow torch, - Otherwise, you lose the rubber rims.

Check for loose or broken rubber rims, unlocked bolts, fractured roller discs, broken torsion bars and trailing arms. Exchange them on time. - Otherwise the faults will multiply!

Torsion bars are the joints of the Tiger. You must not injure their polished surface. With them it’s the same as a love affair. If there is a small fracture, it soon falls apart. Do not throw any tools onto them, drag heavy or sharp-edged objects on their surface or step on them with studded boots. - Otherwise you need to go into the shop.

All terrain track

To install the all-terrain track:

· Completely remove paint, rust, dirt and ice from the flanges.

· Apply a very thin coat of grease.

· Install the rollers.

· Tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern and secure.

· Open the transport track under the guide wheel on one side.

· Move the tank forward until the track is off the wheels.

· Lay out the all-terrain track in front of the tank.

· Drive the tank forward until the end of the track is close to the first roller.

· Tie a rope around the drive wheel threefold.

· Hook the rope into the track.

· Block the other drive wheel using the steering lever.

· Pull the track onto the rollers.

· Lock the track links and put tension on it.

The other side is installed in the same manner.

The transport track is installed in the same manner as the all-terrain track. In this way the rollers can be removed easily, because they hang freely.

Bolts and track links are replaced with the weak link under the drive wheel or the guide wheel.

New links must not be replaced close together, but distributed evenly over the length of the track.

Change the sprockets on the drive wheels as soon as the forward edge of the teeth has worn off.

Original page 36 translation

This is not a centipede; it’s a Tiger from underneath.

This is an assessment of the tasks, wrenches and special tools involved in order to change a roller, a drive wheel, a guide wheel or a flange.

Moral: When it’s dark likeas the inside of a cow,

cold wet and dirty, full of slime,

Jacks and winches stuck in the ground

hammer and wrenches nowhere to be found

When bars break, crank arms drag

three rollers missing, five of them snag,

If only the maker was here!

Original page 38 translation

Defensive Driving

Motto: The Tiger is easy to guide by a thinking man.

26 turns a minute in the three quarter step is that of a fine gentleman dancing the waltz. At this pace the music melts in your ear and harmonizes with the regularity of motion. Going slower is boring, but if you turn too fast you will get dizzy and your partner will melt from all the heat.

2600 rotations per minute in the four cycle is what the Tiger loves. At this speed he will perform best for the fuel consumed. Your instinct, your ears and your tachometer will tell you when you have brought your partner up to the perfect heat.

Do not race her over 3000 rpm ever, otherwise she will overheat. The water boils, the oil ceases to lubricate, the bearings, pistons and valves burn and freeze - the dance is over...

Therefore drive with your head, not with your behind!

· Constantly check the speed (1) coolant temperature (2) and oil pressure (3)

· Find the best way to go but hold the direction,

· Approach cautiously but keep on moving,

· Check what is ahead but scrutinise the gauges.

· Report on the intercom but listen to engine and transmission.

On the move

Turn the cannon to the 6 o’clock position and fasten it down.

Buildings and walls

Do not be run over! The rubble looks better in the weekly movie tone news than on the tail end of your Tiger. The blower will suck in all the dirt and dust, the radiator gets immersed in dust and no longer functions. The engine overheats and fails.

Tarp, leaves, rubble, luggage

Must not lay on the blower cover or disturb the cannon when rotating the turret.

Original page 39 translation

Morass, swamps

Avoid dark areas and high grass. Prefer to make long detours. Investigate the ground on foot. Take another man piggyback and stand on one leg. If the ground supports you, it will support the tank. Go through swiftly, do not steer or change gears. If you get stuck, do not dig yourself in by attempting to get out. Another Tiger will pull you out. Anchor the cable, hook into the tracks and pull yourself out.

Log dam

The dam must be 3.5 meters in width and the logs must be at least 15 cm in diameter. Otherwise they will break or work loose when passing over the dam.

Rivers

A solid riverbed and firm riverbanks are necessary. Where other tanks wade through the water, the Tiger can go too. Turn off the engine and prepare for under-water driving. Close the sump vent, turn on the bilge pump.

Bridges

Investigate on foot. Prefer to ford. Stop in front of the bridge. Position the Tiger so it can cross without the need to steer. Select low gear, do not change gears, do not stop, drive slower than walking pace. Accelerate only after 5 meters of having crossed the bridge.

Ditches and craters

Approach head on, avoid wet areas.

Wooded areas

The Tiger will smash down trees up to 80 cm in diameter using the edge of the front plate. If the clearance between trees is too narrow, drive in a zig-zag pattern, with one side running free.

Mines

Stay on the tracks, bump back on tracks, do not steer, and eliminate mines if possible.

Snow

New dry snow is no reason for concern below 70 cm in height. Compacted snow or sleet only up to the level of ground clearance - 50 cm.

Ice

Throw chainlink in front of the track, use inertia, do not steer, approach edges or ditches with one track. Using twigs or sand for traction makes little sense.

Original page 40 translation

This is your favorite chair. You need to know your way around here, so You’ll find all the levers and switches even in the darkest of nights, like at home the light switch, the door handle or...well you know what.

Driver’s lookout shield

Must be kept movable! In the wintertime and when under attack it can sometimes jam. Loosen the four countersunk screws in the frame. Remove the lid and turn the fixtures far enough to the left, until there is enough play in the adjustment knobs.

One gear is always engaged. If that one is suitable to start out. You will not need to change the selector.

No need to reduce engine speed or use the clutch. 1 or 2 gears can be skipped once the transmission is warmed up. Watch the tachometer!

No need to use the clutch, no need to double-clutch or speed up the engine. 1 to 2 gears can be skipped once the transmission is warmed up. Watch the tachometer!

To start out:

1st - 4th gear (5th - 8th gear impossible)

4. Depress clutch pedal

5. Directional lever forward

6. Selector to 1 - 4 detent Engage the selector

7. Accelerate, slowly engage the clutch.

Upshift:

8 gears

Selector in detent Engage selector lever

Downshift:

8. Selector in detent Adjust the brake lever with feel, engage the selector.

Original page 41 translation

In turns

9. Shift down before the turn. Pull in by the larger or smaller radius according to feel. Using any given gear, a wide or a narrow turn can be made. The smaller the turn, the lower the gear must be engaged. If it doesn’t work out, brake lever, change gears.

Turning on the spot

Shift down to first through third gear, depress the clutch, pull left or right. Push the large button on the transmission housing.

Stopping

Shift down to first through fourth gear, brake lever, depress clutch, directional lever to “0”, engage clutch.

Backing up, 4 gears

Depress clutch, reverse directional lever, selector lever to detent. Engage selector lever. Accelerate engine and slowly engage the clutch.

The directional lever cannot be moved to “0” or reverse as long as a gear above #4 is engaged. If you stopped while in 5th through 8th gear - depress the clutch - shift down.

Reverse is only possible in 1st through 4th gear.

Order to shoot

Depress clutch, apply hand brake lever. Try out position 10 1/2 and 1 1/2 o’clock and memorize. Commander and gunner give directions via intercom.

“In position”

Engage selector lever in second gear. The position of the three shafts and the respective gear can be noted on the plaque on the transmission housing.

“Breakfaaast”

Pull right, or...

“Lunch”

Pull left

(See “Daily meals”)

(See “Spotting “)

Look out - estimate distance - report - look out.

Emergency shift

Directional lever to “0” Use a wrench to change gears Depress the clutch, Directional lever forward. Accelerate, engage the clutch.

Moral: As with all things which are not compulsory,

driving is a pleasure.

Original page 42 translation

Engine Shutoff

Carbonic Acid (CO2) is refreshing.

What sparkles in lemonade, foams in beer, tingles in champagne, is carbonic acid. It rejuvenates, smells sour and tastes great, as everyone knows it will get you drunk.

Carbon monoxide (CO) is deadly.

The exhaust gases contain carbon monoxide apart from carbon dioxide (CO 2), the former being a profoundly evil substance. You do not see it, you do not taste it, you do not smell it. You will slowly become tired, then fall unconscious, pant for a few minutes and then drop dead!

Sparky Innocent rests here, he died of tragic atmosphere

In his Tiger it was cold lo and behold....

So he let it run warm but the smoke was not forlorn since a tarp against the rain covered the pipe whence it came, so the fumes dlowly crept to

Innocent who just slept.

Five more times he’d breathe, till upwards his soul did leave.

Surely if still awake the tarpaulin off the exhaust he’d take.

Original page 43 translation

Sometimes it happens real fast:

A leak in the exhaust duct caused carbon monoxide to accumulate in the sump, you think no evil and push the starter button in the morning, and it starts right up, the whole tank that is! A tiny spark from a loosely insulated wire blows up the whole vehicle.

Ventilation is the only means of protection against it. Carbon monoxide is heavier than air and slowly settles in lower areas. You must use that condition to your advantage!

Therefore:

When turning off the engine, open both sides of the engine cover, open the sump vent, open the lookout, open windows, doors, close both fuel cocks. Remove ignition key. If the engine does not shut off – accelerate to wide open throttle position and turn the main battery switch to “0”. - Otherwise the Tiger bursts!

In the wintertime do not stop on the barren ground. Lay twigs, brushwork, logs, straw or fences underneath. Remove dirt, mud and ice between the rollers. Move the tank a bit every two hours. A sudden change between warm weather (thawing) and cold weather (freezing) is especially dangerous. - Otherwise it will freeze in place!

Thin the oil, see “6 x Check Oil”, and remove the batteries. If stopped for a longer period of time, see “Power”. Engage the gear you intend to use when starting out later on. A cold transmission cannot be shifted through the gear range. Clamp down the clutch pedal so the clutch is disengaged and does not freeze onto the flywheel, - Otherwise you cannot start out later!

Moral: The Tiger does not like its own odour,

much like the Landser doesn’t care for his either!

Original page 44 translation

Field Recovery

Motto: With care, thought and logic - recovery is soon accomplished.

Just as you would help your comrade, no matter what, You must take care of your friend of steel too and take him home when he breaks down. If need be another Tiger can help you out, but it is better to avoid that avenue. It is better to skip any further attempts to get out on your own. You torment the engine and driveline, and it is no good anyway.

Instead:

Report and let the experts talk! In the meantime, prepare for recovery, paying attention to the following:

Gustav:

Frees up the tracks or opens them to check the running gear ...so that resistance to towing is eliminated,

Removes the steering gear box shaft and replaces the bolts ...so that the transmission is disabled, but the brakes work.

Hulsensacke and Piepmatz:

Remove obstacles in front of the tracks and hull ...so that the recovery effort will be less difficult.

Speedy Quickthinker:

has checked for anchor points for the tow tractor and prepares the appropriate tools: breaker bars, tow bars, hooks, ropes and winches ...in case the recovery will be done using winches.

Don’t fiddle around and waste time, or you’ll be reprimanded!

Inform the commander of the recovery team on damages to the tank and avenues for recovery right away. And then everyone lends a hand! Once the vehicle is free it will be towed in a tandem train. Be alert as a watchdog when crossing bridges, fording rivers, or passing narrow roadways. Keep in contact with the towing tractors, make an extra effort giving directions, otherwise your comrades will be broadsided or the tank ends up stuck once again.

Moral: Recovery is full of difficulty, yet is a necessity.

Original page 45 translation

Loading for Transport

Motto: Even General Guderian sometimes takes the train!

Loading a tank onto the train is smooth and quick business if you have prepared everything properly:

Apply the railcar (SSyms) brake and support the overhang at each end of the railroad car - Otherwise your Tiger ends up on the rails.

Install the transport tracks and stow away the accessory rollers, but make sure the track cover is lifted up, so it will not endanger railroad traffic. When loading the Tiger prefer to use head ramps, lay out both all terrain tracks side by side, drive the Tiger over these, fasten the tracks on the front and pull them onto the railcar in this manner. The remaining ends are folded inward. Once the tank is on the rail car, do not forget to apply the brakes and chuck the tracks at each end.

While moving by train, frequently check: whether brake is firmly applied; whether the wooden chucks are still nailed down; whether the tank is still centered on the railcar.

Moral: Loading onto the train, for the old hands is child play!

Original page 47 translation

Radio Operator

“Radio Operator the decrypter”

Your set reaches farther than the voice, the ear, the eye. It travels over distances faster than a tank or a projectile. The responsibility of whether it turns into a powerful and dangerous weapon or into a mean traitor is in your hands.

Original page 48 translation

The radio apparatus

Motto: Often the proper radio broadcast

will divert the attack to the better, at last!

The right wavelength and the proper volume are often decisive for your future. In turn, a ridiculous mishap, such as a wrong, adjustment, a missing connection or a loose contact can ruin everything. Be wired up.

Always:

1. Plug the wires to the transformer and to the antenna into their proper sockets.

2. Check that all switches are in the “off” position when the apparatus is not in use.

3. Check the connections from the battery, (+ on +, - on -) over connector box 23 in the base plate, and from the transformer to the apparatus for tight contact. Pay attention to loose wires and insulation.

Before using the apparatus:

Connect all wires as shown on the diagram.

To operate the receiver:

Adjust - 2 - for high volume

Check - 4 - whether the scale is lit.

And - 5 - for burning control light

Adjust - 6 - to “0”

Turn - 7 - on the ordered frequency and lock.

Adjust - 8 - for “far away”

Turn - 6 - to maximum volume

Adjust - 8 - to “near” if volume is too high.

Turn - 2 - back if it is still too loud.

To operate the transmitter:

Adjust - 2 - to position “Tn”

Check - 4 - if the scale is lit.

And - 5 - for burning light.

Turn - 7 - to operating frequency.

Push - 9

Turn - 10 - until 11 points to the far right of the scale.

Does - 11 - oscillate when you speak into the microphone?

Adjust - 2 - to “Tg sounding” if you want to use the Morse code

After operation:

2 Turn the switch to “0”.

1 and stick the wires into their sockets.

Moral: He plugs his wiring for two frequencies.

Original page 50 translation

Intercom

Motto: Radio and telephone were made to better hear the tone!

This is the intercom control box with its two switches. Using the upper switch you can obtain different settings for the intercom. The lower switch may be set either way. The receiver is turned on, the transmitter is not. If you have no receiver, hook the 5-wire cable from, the transformer to the intercom control box.

1. First option: “Intercom”

Tank commander! You can listen and speak without pushing your button. You must therefore be especially careful, as everything you say will be heard. If you wish to utter maledictions or talk to the infantryman, you either have to remove the microphone or unplug the microphone wire, or have the radio operator turn off the whole apparatus. If you want to talk to the radioman you must push your button.

Gunner and Driver! You are constantly listening in. If you want to speak, you must push the button.

Radio operator! You can only talk to the commander after pushing your button.

2. Second option: “Broadcast and Intercom”

Radio operator! If you constantly want to be connected to the intercom, turn the upper switch to the left, position “Broadcast and Intercom”. Like the commander you then hear everything and can speak without pushing your button.

The four speakers of the intercom are shown as circles, transmitting and receiving is denoted by arrows. If the arrow goes through a square then the button must be pushed on the microphone in order to talk.

Moral: Communication on the intercom works, as with a young woman!

Original page 51 translation

Intercom

Motto: The broadcast would be beyond description

with a female performing the encryption!

Here 2 x 2 options are possible as the lower switch is now part of the setting. For now, we will leave it set on the right, on:

A. “Commander and Radio operator, Receiver 1 and 2”

1. First option, “Intercom”

Radioman! You can send and receive by turning the operating mode switch to “Tn” or “reception” while the commander, gunner and driver talk on the intercom undisturbed.

Should the commander want to hear the incoming broadcast or if he wants to send out a message, then either you or him need to push the button. You will then hear what is coming in or being transmitted. In the meantime the commander is disconnected from the intercom.

The intercom is denoted together with broadcast mode in the above illustrations. On top intercom is to the left and above the dotted line, the radio operator being in broadcast mode.

Above, intercom is to the right and above the dotted line, only between gunner and driver.

Original page 52 translation

In the illustrations, intercom is denoted as previously. On top only the radio op. is in broadcast mode. In the center one message is denoted by thick, another by thin lines, intercom is above to the right of the dotted line.

Above, thick lines denote message to radio op., the others message to the crew.

2. Second option: “Broadcast and Intercom”

If the whole crew is supposed to receive, switch to the left, position “Broadcast and Intercom”.

All four crewmembers are now interconnected, all for can now send. Gunner and driver must push their buttons to do so.

Now special care is to be taken to shut up!

B. “Commander receive 1, Radio op. Receive 2”

1. First option:

The upper switch to the right, on “intercom” mode.

In vehicles with type Fu2 and Fu5 apparatus you must listen to both receivers, that does not require a Ph.D. either.

But if two messages arrive simultaneously, then push the button quickly and turn the lower switch to the left, on “Commander receive 1, Radio op. Receive 2”.

In that case you only keep receiver No.2, while receiver No.1 goes to the commander, or...

2. Second option:

For the whole crew, if the upper switch is turned to the left on “Intercom and Broadcast”.

Moral: Therefore, think fast and act quick,

or where you now a lightning bolt will sit.

Original page 53 translation

Loader

“Loader Hulsensack the indefatigable”

60 tons of steel and 700 horsepower serve only one purpose, to set in motion and protect the weaponry you operate. If you fail, all of that will be in vain. If you prove yourself competent, a multitude of enemy tonnage and horsepower will be destroyed with your aid.

Original page 54 translation

Motto: Often one cannot really fire as she will not as one desires.

DO NOT unwrap too early!

DO NOT stand up but lovingly lay on a blanket.

DO NOT use the packaging material for heating, turn it back in,

DO NOT let moisture, dirt, sunlight or frost touch it!

DO NOT toss or dent like the bricklayers.

Shells with fractures or dents - turn them out!

Shells with marred rotating band - turn them out!

Shells with leaking explosive - turn them out!

Shells without base plate or crimping - turn them out!

Caution!!!

Inspect, clean, do not lubricate!

Hand tighten loose priming screws!

Priming screws must not protrude

Tighten nose fuse by hand!

Straighten out loose and rotating projectiles!

Ammunition with percussion primer will cause a short circuit!

Attention!

Insert shells tightly into their mounting brackets!

Rearrange storage on time!

When loading do not spoil the rotating band!

Anti-tank grenade #39 is black with white tip!

Anti-tank grenade A’40 is black!

HL - grenade is grey!

High explosive shell is yellow!

Only adjust delay using a wrench!

After unloading, set back on O.V., otherwise it will fail!

Turn in duds and used shells!

Moral: Whether blond, black, turning grey, or white,

care for her like for your bride. Her temper you will come to appreciate, at the touch of a finger she’ll catch fire.

Original page 55 translation

The versatile cannon

Motto: A jam in the barrel - thank God, it doesn’t happen often.

Beforehand...

Check your circuitry, care for the ammunition, clean the lock, rotate/actuate all moving parts, clean and remove all the oil from the barrel before shooting. Apply oil liberally after use when the barrel is again warm to the touch. - Otherwise the cannon will not shoot at all!

Attention...

Remove the muzzle cover, also the disposable one, when covered with ice. Remove camouflage and brushwork away from the muzzle. Look through the barrel during a pause in firing. Shine inside with a flashlight at night. Remove fragments and residue. Unload a hot barrel during a pause in firing. - Otherwise the cannon will shoot to the side.

Do not shoot,

If the muzzle brake is loose or shot off - it works like a funnel and helps to absorb 70% of the recoil.

If the recoil brake loses oil - it works like a shock absorber and absorbs 25% of the recoil.

If the pneumatic recuperator leaks air or does not function. It works like a door closing link and absorbs 5% of the cannon’s recoil.

If the recoil marker signals “pause in firing”. It must be shifted forward after every shot.

If the cotter pin on the operating lever is lose or missing - Otherwise the cannon will shoot backwards.

Then again, with experienced marksmen and generally anyway - the cannon will shoot forward!

Moral: Only with regret the tank man will admit,

instead of hitting he took a hit!

Original page 56 translation

Slow Response

Motto: The 8.8 is rapidly fired but some of them never light.

Jamming at Chamber

Cause: Corrosion or dirt on shell

Remedy: Reload.

Jamming at Priming screw

Cause: Useless (can be recessed)

Remedy: New priming screw.

Jamming at Striker

Cause: Too short, dull or broken

Remedy: New striker.

Jamming at Bridge

Cause: Broken spring

Remedy: New bridge.

Jamming at Block

Cause: Not reached by the bridge

Remedy: Push cannon forward, refill air to 55 at, (44L oil)

Jamming at Socket on pushbutton

Cause: Loose wire connection

Remedy: Repair socket and plug.

Jamming at Signal lamps

Cause: You can fire, even with lamp is burnt or has fallen out

Remedy: Install a new lamp, bend the spring as needed.

Jamming at Oil fuse

Cause: Recoil brake is leaking oil (contains 5.1 Litres of oil)

Remedy: Check seal, tighten screws, fill up oil.

Jamming at Bosch type plug

Cause: Wire pinched, plug is not fully inserted.

Remedy: Check socket and plug, new wire, bend spring.

Jamming at 15 Amp. fuse

Cause: First find the short or pinched wire.

Remedy: Obtain new fuse from driver.

Jamming at 40 Amp. Fuse

Cause: Anti-aircraft ammunition, chafed wire

Remedy: Replace percussion primer with electric igniter.

Jamming at Batteries

Cause: Loose clamps or dirty batteries

Remedy: Clean, tighten clamps, apply grease.

Solution for malfunctions up to 15 Amp fuse

Symptom - Lamp on the trigger does not burn, signal lamp does burn!

Remedy: Switch to emergency battery on emergency switch.

Solution for malfunctions up to Bosch type plug

Symptom - Lamp on the trigger signal lamp does not light.

Remedy: Insert wire into socket for turret lights, pull through with the loader fuse.

Check: Unload cannon, hold trigger pulled, lay test light with one end to ground, (bare metal), with the other end on the wire, (insulation removed).

Be careful!Do not cause a short circuit! Check the wiring towards the cannon until the test light no longer lights up. The malfunction is located shortly before that point!

Attention! If the oil fuse has turned power off, shooting must not occur.

Original page 58 translation

5 Cures for Jamming

Motto: When it comes to fire the poorly machine gun will jam!

Bullets:

With dents or fractures, rust or deformation ...throw out! Install only German made ammunition straight out of the package, do not use suspicious Russian ammunition dropped by air (explosive ammunition). Check every bullet, clean, do not lubricate.

Belts:

· With pockets that were stepped on, are bent or corroded...throw them out!

· With broken or bent claws...throw them out!

· With links torn off or stepped on...throw them out!

· With worn off link connectors...throw them out!

· Do it like the skiers!

· Dip the belts into boiling kerosene, shake off well!

That will last for an average campaign. Install the belts properly, the claw must sit in its groove snugly. Assemble with care, the stud must be centered in the opening.

Machine gun:

Assemble properly. Check the length of the recoil spring (forward to center insert). Check the length of the firing pin string, three turns over end of bolt. The firing pin nut must snap audibly. Do not insert the belt feed the wrong way.

Oil:

Apply oil only on moving parts and locking cams. Use high sulfur oil or even better, some engine oil. Remove the oil from the barrel and locking cams, - otherwise you’ll have inhibitions.

Installation:

Proceed so that the machine gun is not distorted. The mounting fork must fit over the pins on the housing without binding. Adjust the trigger linkage with locknut. The machine gun must be set for continuous fire. Move the cocking slide forward, so that the tang does not break. Empty the deflector bag.

...But before installation:

Original page 59 translation

...Lay your hand over your heart and ask five questions:

Question #1:

Is the barrel bent? Does the counter recoil mechanism operate?

Check #1:

Cock the machine gun, remove the flash damper. The barrel must be easily pushed to the stud using just one finger, but rebound immediately.

Question #2:

Does the machine gun operate in continuous fire mode?

Check #2:

Kick the trigger, pull the lock and let it snap forward. It must catch only when releasing the trigger, and immediately.

Question #3:

Does the lock operate freely?

Check #3:

Remove the base plate with locking spring. The lock must be movable together with the locking slide without effort.

Question #4:

Does the lock engage completely?

Check #4:

Let the lock snap forward, open the lid. The mating surface of the lower lock housing must be even with the edge of the lower half of the feed mechanism.

Question #5:

Does the process of delivery, deflection, extraction and ejection work properly?

Check #5:

Insert a few cases with projectiles on top, let the lock snap forward and pull back. The case must be ejected sharply.

New! Swift readiness to fire:

When loading the lock is left in forward position! You can take your time loading. If the safety stop fails, no shot can be fired!

Do not close the lid with the use of force. If you want to shoot you only need to load through.

Moral: Check besides the belt,

does the sprayer work as well?

Original page 60 translation

A Mules’s Barometer

Motto: A mule’s tail will tell, whether it’s wet out, windy, or hot and thick. Watching the machine gun’s behaviour, the gunner finds the jam!

If the tail is dry and does not wiggle - nice weather

If the tail is dry but wiggles - windy

If the tail is wet but does not wiggle - rain

If the tail is wet and wiggles - storm

If the tail is nowhere to be seen - fog

Just as easily, you can determine what the problem is with your machine gun when it jams:

Pay attention!

Remove the foot from the trigger, on the right side, move the cocking slide back, while at the same time checking:

1. Position of the lock?

2. What is being ejected?

3. What is in the way of the lock?

Secure on the left, on the right, remove the lid and check.

And now look at....

Original page 61 translation

The Machine Gun Barometer

LOCK POSITION FORWARD:

· What is ejected: cartridge, dud. What jams: failure.

Immediate remedy: continue fire. Root cause: 4 Wear

· What is ejected: cartridge, intact. What jams: striker.

Immediate remedy: exchange lock Root cause: Fatigue/4 Wear

· What is ejected: nothing. What jams: belt binds.

Immediate remedy: pull belt through Root cause: 2 Sloppiness

· What is ejected: nothing. What jams: Ejector rod.

Immediate remedy: exchange locks Root cause: 3 Fatigue/4 Wear

· What is ejected: nothing. What jams: carrier.

Immediate remedy: pull on belt Root cause: 3 Fatigue/4 Wear

ALMOST FORWARD

· What is ejected: cartridge, intact What jams: distorted gun.

Immediate remedy: loosen claw Root cause: 2 Sloppiness

· What is ejected: cartridge, intact What jams: locking catch

Immediate remedy: exchange barrel Root cause: 1 Dirt

· What is ejected: nothing. What jams: cartridge dented

Immediate remedy: exchange barrel Root cause: 2 Sloppiness

CENTER

What is the cartridge doing?

· Cartridge jams, barrel free What jams: improper load

Immediate remedy: continue fire Root cause: 2 Sloppiness

· Cartridge jams, barrel free What jams: ejector rod

Immediate remedy: exchange lock Root cause: 3 Fatigue/4 Wear

· Cartridge jams, case in barrel What jams: deflector bag

Immediate remedy: empty bag Root cause: 2 Sloppiness

· Cartridge jams, case in barrel What jams: extractor

Immediate remedy: exchange lock Root cause: 4 Wear

· Cartridge jams, case in barrel What jams: Chamber

Immediate remedy: exchange barrel Root cause: 1 Dirt

· Cartridge jams, split case in barrel What jams: loose striker nut

Immediate remedy: exchange lock/barrel Root cause: 2 Sloppiness

· Cartridge jams, split case in barrel What jams: bolt stop

Immediate remedy: exchange barrel Root cause: 4 Wear

· Case jams cartridge in barrel What jams: ejector

Immediate remedy: exchange lock Root cause: 4 Wear

ALMOST BACK

What is the cartridge doing?

· Cartridge not ejected What jams: bent pocket

Immediate remedy: continue fire Root cause: 2 Sloppiness

· Cartridge not ejected What jams: connector

Immediate remedy: continue fire Root cause: 2 Sloppiness

· Cartridge not ejected What jams: lock travel

Immediate remedy: clean Root cause: 1 Dirt

· Cartridge not ejected What jams: bent ejector

Immediate remedy: exchange lock Root cause: 2 Sloppiness

· Cartridge travel What jams: belt travel

Immediate remedy: continue fire Root cause: 2 Sloppiness

· Cartridge travel What jams: feed, upper part-continue fire

Root cause: 3 Fatigue/4 Wear

ALL THE WAY BACK

· Caught after 1st. shot: What jams: Linkage short

Immediate remedy: pull off by hand Root cause: 2 Sloppiness

· Lock does not stay in place (if it is to stop, hold the belt) What jams: linkage binds

Immediate remedy: pull off by hand Root cause: 2 Sloppiness

· Lock does not stay in place (if it is to stop, hold the belt) What jams: trigger dirty

Immediate remedy: reload often Root cause: 1 Dirt

· Lock does not stay in place (if it is to stop, hold the belt) What jams:wear on trigger

Immediate remedy: get another machine gun Root cause: 4 Wear

Root cause:

YOUR FAULT

1. Dirt! Clean, remove oil. Apply oil and graphite.

2. Sloppiness! Reload the belt, Straighten out, readjust

NOT YOUR FAULT

3. Fatigue! Sagging springs the springs.

4. Fracture and wear! New part from spare parts bin or ordinance shop

Moral: You see, if the shots don’t go as they came,

usually it’s you who is to blame.

Original page 62 translation

MO-FÜ-FA-LA-BA (mnemonic)

Motto: Llleft – slllow, rrright – rraapid!

Exterior:

MO-tor (engine) cover closed, engage lock

-nker (radio operator’s) hatch closed

FA-hrer (driver’s) hatch closed

LA-ampen (lights) removed

BA-hn (clear) tracks

Interior:

Gunner, disengage lock

Driver, start engine

1. Loader, engage rotating gear llleft – slllow, rrright – swwwift!

2. Radio op. Selector lever on “turret”

3. Loader, Emergency lever on transmission upwards

4. Gunner, Rotate, by stepping on pedal.

Reeear – leeeft, frooont – riiight!

Gunner, aim using elevating and traversing mechanism.

Driver, accelerate, when it has to happen quickly.

Moral: Reeear – Leeeft, frooont – riiight!

Original page 63 translation

Turret trouble

Motto: Still at home, for some there went

the turret and their head out of detent.

TURRET CANNOT BE ROTATED BY FOOT

Cause: Clutch stuck

Remedy: 5 Leave engine running, knock clutch loose!

Cause: Clutch linkage too short or too long

Remedy: 6 Loosen nut on clutch linkage and adjust fork!

Cause: Linkage jumped out of ball pivot

Remedy: 7 Connect ball pivot and secure!

Cause: Center shaft dislodged on top of slip ring connector

Remedy: 8 Remove bell housing and engage center shaft dogs!

Cause: No oil pressure

Remedy: Refill to proper level!

Cause: Pedal off hinges

Remedy: 9 Install linkage, new cotterpin

TURRET HANGS UP AT 4 OR 8 O’CLOCK POSITION

Cause: Turret hanging up on open engine cover

Remedy: Using a rope attached to the cannon, pull to 12 o’clock position, close engine cover!

TURRET SWINGS ONLY TO THE RIGHT WHEN OPERATED BY FOOT

Cause: Spring under pedal is too long

Remedy: 4 Adjust spring or set pedal in horizontal position!

TURRET SWINGS AT DIFFERENT SPEEDS LEFT OR RIGHT, WHEN OPERATED BY FOOT

Cause: Pedal linkage too short or too long

Remedy: 9 Shorten or lengthen pedal linkage!

TURRET SWINGS WITHOUT INTERRUPTION

Cause: Clutch and linkage binding

Remedy: 6 Turn off engine and free up linkage!

Cause: Compression spring stop not seated right

Remedy: 5 Remove drive shaft at flange, unscrew the locknut, pull off the clutch, do not damage the needle bearing, insert spring stop straight, install clutch.

EMERGENCY LEVER DOES NOT FUNCTION

Cause: Emergency lever is turning with shaft, pin sheared off

Remedy: 3 Install new pin to secure emergency lever!

Moral: With sense we swivel elegant – who has none labours by hand.

Original page 65 translation

Gunner

“Holzauge the infallible”

Aiming a shot into dead center is a matter of art, but not black magic. In order to shoot better than your opponent. You have been given the sharper weapon and the sharper mind. Using the 8.8 You can shoot off a mosquito’s right canine tooth.

Here you learn how:

Original page 66 translation

Motto: You won’t learn to aim or shoot,

if you haven’t eaten your way up this book!

Hülsensack had received a gigantic cake from his bride Elvira on the occasion of his birthday. The cake had a diameter of 2 kilometers.

This cake was to be shared with every man in the division so Hülsensack cut it into 6400 pieces.

Those were very strange pieces of cake. If you started eating at the tip, there was hardly anything because it was so thin. At the back it became much wider, going up to 1 meter in width at the outer fringe. Each piece of cake was 1000m long.

Elvira would have liked to bake a cake where each piece would have been 2000 m long, but the field post declined submission to the unit. Those would have been 2 m wide at the end.

You can easily figure out the width for such a piece of cake, if you only know the distance from your mouth:

· For 1000 m, it is 1m wide

· For 2000 m, it is 2 m wide

· For 800 m, it is 0.8 m wide, and so on...

The brightest will say the width is always 1/1000 or one thousandth of the distance from your mouth.

Such a piece of cake is called a notch!

4 notch for instance is as wide as 4 pieces of cake side by side. Look out! That is where the reticules in your scope are located!

Original page 67 translation

The Notch

Motto: Are you wiser by one notch? Don’t read further if not!

The tips of each set of reticules are exactly four notch apart. If you bear over ahead of them, it is the same as if you looked along the edges of your piece of cake. So if there is a house 2000 m distant, which fits right between the tips of two reticules. You know:

“Look at here”!

The gap between two tips is 4 notch

One notch at 2000 m is 2m wide

4 notch x 2 = 8 m

The house is 8 m wide

Isn’t that a killer?

Question:

1 tank is 500 m distant, it reaches across 3 gaps between reticule tips. How wide is the tank?

You calculate:

3 gaps at 4 notch each = 12 notch

1 notch at 500 m is 0.5 m

12 notch x 0.5 = 6 m.

Answer: The tank is 6 m wide.

You can calculate the height of the target in the same manner, if you know: The center reticule is 4 notch high, the side reticules are each 2 notch high. You must remember this well. You need it constantly when using the scope.

Question:

How tall is the tank?

You figure:

Assume it is 3 times as tall as a minor reticule,

3 times 2 notch, that is … You take it from here.

The real smart ones know that such a scale is also found in the sights of binoculars and may be used in the same manner! But it is also in your thumb! Hold it far away and it is exactly 40 notch wide. One jump of the thumb measures 100 notch. (Close one eye, then the other, while looking along the same edge of your thumb). That way you determine the target size and distance in between to an accuracy of 5 notch, stunning everyone! Try it! So if you know the distance. You can calculate the size of the target!

Original page 68 translation

Spotting

Motto: Your sweetheart sees into your eyes,

when spotting we separate close and distant, very wise.

Estimating a distance exactly - cannot be done.

“Measuring” is learned by many -

Adjusting the range correctly - must be learned by all!

When estimating a distance of 1200 m or less you must learn to be off by no more than 200 m up or down. If 500 m is the correct distance, then your estimate must be between 300 m and 700 m. That really is not much of a challenge. Above 1200 m estimating turns into guesswork.

Estimate closer by!

· For dark targets

· If it’s dreary and cloudy

· In windy and foggy air

· Against a dark background

· If the sun or reflections hit your eye.

Estimate Farther away!

· For lighter targets

· In fresh and sunny weather

· In clear air without wind

· Against a light background

· With the sunlight across the plain

· Through the scope if you cannot see what is between you and your target.

Estimate twice:

1. The target is surely closer than X m (e.g. 900 m)

2. The target is surely farther away than Y m (500 m)

Take the average of the two estimates, in this case 700 m.

Distance can only be estimated by the driver or the commander, since they have a clear line of sight. It cannot be done well through the scope because

1. the scope magnifies 2 1/2 fold, and

2. you cannot possibly estimate with one eye.

Close one eye and let a comrade hold his finger 1/2 m in front of You. Then try to quickly grab it with your index finger.

Attention: do not use your finger and do not look with both eyes beforehand. However, the gunner and the commander can “measure” using the scope and the optics. You will now learn to do that.

Original page 69 translation

If you have the time, do it like this:

THE TANK COMMANDER

Measures or estimates his distance, see “measuring”

THE DRIVER

(He needs a little longer) reports his distance - see “spotting”

THE TANK COMMANDER

Calculates the average - see grade 1 in preschool

THE GUNNER

In the meantime having measured or estimated for himself reports his distance. See “Order to shoot”

THE GUNNER

(Distance is not the correct range) adjusts the correct range - see “Belly Button Rule”

You always have the time!

If you miss it will take far longer, cost more ammunition, you give away your position before your action takes any effect.

3 times 2 eyes see more than two - You estimate +/- 100,

3 times, the commander must calculate - he gets more money

3 times, reports and orders are exchanged - that is the purpose of the intercom.

Practice does it all!

Attention! The correct distance is not the correct range.

Moral: Closer - foggy, dreary dark, mist, moving, against the sun

Further - bright, with the sun, clear, plain

Original page 70 translation

Measuring

Motto: Even artists measure as estimating by eye is not reliable.

If the painter wants to accurately measure a line he will compare the size of the pencil with his model. You compare the size of the reticule with the target! Because if you know the size of your target. You can use the notch to figure out how far away it is.

Look out:

The Russian tanks are all 3 m wide. Assume that it is at a distance that lets it cover 1 1/2 gaps between the tips of reticules. Then you say:

Look at here! 1 1/5 gaps at 4 notch each = 6 notch

6 notch = 3 m

1 notch = 3 : 6 = 0.5 m

0.5 m x 1000 = 500 m

If the tank is positioned at an angle, you cannot calculate using length or width. You use height. Let us assume that the optics display a picture as shown in the illustration. Then you figure:

3 minor reticules 2 notch high = 6 notch

6 notch = 3 m, etc

Through the scope graduation looks like this:

Problem: Calculate the distance of this truck

A few measurements:

Attention! The correct distance is not the correct range!

Moral: Instead of measuring how far off measure by meters

and divide the meters by the notch you divide times 1000.

Original page 71 translation

Seven Goodies

Motto: Save ammunition, avoid waste -

a wagon full is enough for the “Ritterkreuz”!

Pistol: through the hatch at guests on the rear.

Sub.-M.G.: through the hatch into ditches and nests in obstructed areas.

Pineapples: through the hatch into holes and at hidden targets.

Smokeshells: in case of fire, jamming, needed for tactical retreat, if things get difficult.

M.G., front: as far as 200 m at man, horse and wagon.

M.G., turret: as far as 400 m at man, horse and wagon,(farther if several present), set fire to buildings, help the infantry by nailing the enemy on the ground.

Cannon: High Explosive shell:

(No delay) Generates shrapnel 20 m to each side and 10m forward. Therefore, better to miss to the side than to the rear of the target. Tried and tested against anti-tank guns, howitzers, massed infantry targets, nests. Destroys armor, wheels, tracks, lookouts.

(Delay) A mine, if delivered vertically: Intrudes and detonates wooden bunkers, buildings, shelters, forest and juvenile tanks. Incinerates everything and overturns vehicles.

(Ricochet) Upon impact after shallow trajectory it will bounce back up off firm ground and detonate 50 m further away at a height of 4 - 8 m in midair. Use against invisible positions which cannot be fired on otherwise.

Armor-piercing shell, #39: Cracks tanks and trenches as far as 2000 m.

Armor-piercing shell, #40: Cracks heaviest tanks as far as 1500m (deviation). Use only when #39 does not penetrate. Attention! There is more thrust behind it! For 600 to 1000m you must decrease the range by 100m, for 1100 m to 1500m always by 200m.

HL-shell: Against heaviest tanks as far as 1000 m (substantial deviation). Blasts enormous holes, but travels slowly. Therefore the range must always be increased by 1/4 compared to the rule. (For instance not 600 m but 750 m). Do not use if camouflage, brushwork, nets are in front of the target. Otherwise it will detonate too early!

Attention: The correct distance is not the correct range

Moral: Shoot less, hit more, stay tight,

and delight “Reichsminister Speer”!

Original page 72 translation

Elvira gets shot

Motto: Many targets appear incalculable as the girl is unpredictable!

The correct distance is not the correct range.

The men of the TIGER didn’t want to believe it either. Hülsensacke the Indefatigable had obtained a circus banner 2 m high with the pretty Elvira on it and posted it 500 m away as a target. That they wanted to plaster, everyone taking a shot at Elvira.

Driver Gustav took range at 475, let Elvira sit on the main reticule, took 1/2 m to the left, like you’re supposed to, and fell short - by exactly 25 m.

Piepmatz the radio operator used range 500 and hit the world-famous toes, - precisely.

Then Hülsensacke the Indefatigable went in, the loader, (having been trained in the third rank), mightily spat into his hands, took range 700, took a deep breath and hit the trigger - boom - the shot went off, right through the much adorned belly button.

Gunner Richtschutze Holzauge the Infallible shook his head and said that with ranged 700 the shot should have gone over the top of it. Now he went for it all, took range 1000 and hit the head.

Commander Speedy Quickthinker took 1100 and went over it. With that range the magic had ended!

Range 25 m short, no hit! Range 50mm too far, direct hit!!!!!

The layman marvels, the expert just looks on!

Moral: The right estimate sometimes doesn’t give the hit you need!

Original page 73 translation

The loader always hits

Motto: The old Panzermann will always strive for a hit.

The cannon shoots point blank. The shot therefore goes up to the range adjusted but no further.

If you know the exact distance and fire with range the same as distance, then you will hit the point of aim. But you never know the exact distance. If your guess is short by 25 m, then you will hit the dirt 25 m before the target, just like driver Oscar did.

The 8.8’s trajectory is amazingly flat. So you need to elevate the barrel only a little to shoot much farther. You will then still hit your target close by with a distant range, if the target is only tall enough. For instance, using range 1000 you will hit all targets within 0 and 1000 m, if they are 2 m high. Isn’t that wonderful?

However, shooting at Elvira using range 1000 is still not on the safe side, because if she were only a bit shorter, the shot would go overhead, as it did with Commander Speedy.

There are several usable ranges for one target! The smallest of them is the distance, all others lie above that. You can hit Elvira with 6 different ranges.

500 - 600 - 700 - 800 - 900 - 1000.

Do not adjust range equal to distance! Because if you are short by 25 m in your estimate. You will miss by 25 m. Do it like the loader, be moderate, then you’ll hit the center of the target, the belly button.

In estimating the distance he can afford a glitch of 200 m either way, and he will still hit. The Loader always hits, because he can’t be off by more in estimating a distance.

Moral: The old foxes will adjust the optics further they estimate!

Original page 74 translation

The Loader’s Belly Button Rule

That is the only thing you do not need to remember.

A. If Elvira were twice as tall, then twice as many ranges could be used. Bellybutton range would then be 1000. You can be off either way by 500 m!

B. If the target is very small, as for instance the toes, then only one range (500) will do, the exact distance: Anti-tank positions, tanks behind a hill, trenches, weak spots on tanks, as for instance the turret (so that the shot will hit vertically), must be fought in this manner. Your estimate must not be off.

C. If Elvira moves further away, then ever fewer ranges will suffice.

D. In the end there is only one course left to take: Range equals distance, if the target is very small, or if it only appears small because it is far away, then the number of useable ranges is also small since the target is only a few or not even one notch tall. Only small errors in estimating are permitted.

If the target is large or if it looks large because it is close by, the number of useable ranges is also large. Large errors are permitted.

Original page 75 translation

How do I find the correct range?

1. Estimate the distance.

2. Estimate the height of half the target, (bellybutton), in terms of notch by comparison with the reticule (or take the height of the entire target and divide it by two).

3. Half the target in notch times 100 meters, add that to the distance, that gives you the belly button range and you will hit the belly button.

By how much can I be off in the estimate?

Notch by 100 meters, is how far you may be over or under in estimating the correct distance and still hit.

Example:

1. Less than 600m more than 400m, average = 500m.

2. Target height is 4 notch belly button thus at 2 notch

3. Permissible error in estimate 2 times 100 m = 200 m, therefore all estimates between 500 m + 200 m = 700 m, 500 m - 200 m. = 300 m are applicable.

Moral: The reticule compare to the belly button where you stare,

to the distance you add notch by 100, not so bad,

100 m times the notch is how far you can deviate.

Original page 76 translation

Sensible Use of Ordnance

Motto: Just as Max Schmeling saves his right,

you must save the shells for the fight.

Always hold below the target, take aim from low down.

Attention!

The cannon always fires 1/2 m, the machine gun 1 m to the side. Because the cannon is positioned 1/2 m, the machine gun 1 m to the right of the optics.

Therefore always aim the cannon 1/2 m, the machine gun 1 m to the left!

Under 1200 m

You can’t possibly miss, when correctly using the belly button rule.

Over 1200 m

Most of the time you have to adjust range equal to distance. Since you estimated very accurately you will fire too close or too far. Then you adjust the range, because it was off, even if only by 50 or 25 m. Do not alter the point of aim, as that makes less of a difference over 1200 m.

Only if the shot misses to the left or to the right, are you permitted to change the point of aim sideways. If that is over 2 notch, then use the minor reticule to hold the target.

If the first shot is not a hit, you either made a mistake in estimating or you did not properly adjust the weapon.

You are at fault, not the cannon.

Up to 2000 m the 8.8 will fire point blank. Only if firing as far as 3000 m, one of three shots will miss. At a distance of 4000 m only every forth shot will produce a hit. (deviation.)

Therefore, always consider, whether shooting over great distances is worth it.

After every substantial firing sequence -

Elevate the barrel, Open the lock, let it cool and air out. In the wintertime remove the muzzle cover.

Wet the ground in front of the muzzle, otherwise firing the weapon will generate dust.

In the winter time, camouflage that spot, as it will turn black.

Moral: Use the sun from the back and the wind from the side,

fire from stationary.

Original page 77 translation

Knife or fork?

Motto: Whether knife or fork is used on the platter,

you have to eat it, that’s what matters!

Some eat with a fork, others use a knife. You must be able to use both!

Over 1200 m it doesn’t always work out right away, especially when using explosive shells. Now the cannon must come to your aid. It will shoot a scale for you in the field, which you can lay onto your target just like a yardstick.

Pay attention:

Firstly always fire one shot with the range 100 m less than the distance you guessed. Surely that one will fall short.

If you can see the terrain behind the target, then use a fork:

For the second shot, add 400 m.

It will go behind the target. Between both locations of impact there now lies an accurately measured distance of 400 m. You must divide it into four equal parts. And now the distance in meters from the first shot to the target can be measured accurately.

The third shot must be right on target!

If you can only see the terrain in front of the target, then use a knife:

For the second shot, you can add only so much. The location of impact must still be in front of the target. Again you have a distance between both locations of impact which can be used to measure how far you are short of the target in meters. Eating with a knife is not that easy. The third or fourth shot must be right on target!

In this instance you must add 300 m to the first shot.

In this instance you must add 100 m to the second shot.

Moral: Up to twelve by one hundred fire by button rule,

over greater distances knife or fork apply with cool.

Original page 78 translation

The Lead

Motto: Easy to kill your enemy, if you get the lead right.

The five men of the Tiger had requisitioned some cherries while the leave-train had stopped. They began to spit the stones at the telegraph poles adjacent to the track. That worked ok. The train slowly started to roll. At first they still managed to hit the poles, but all of the sudden they all missed.

Everyone was shocked. Then, the loader curled his tongue into the barrel of a howitzer, closed one eye, and with the other he aimed a good distance in front of a telegraph pole, pressed real hard, and - boom - the shot went off. Right on the telegraph pole. The faster the train went, the further ahead he aimed in front of a pole.

If your target is closer than 200 m - aim at it!

If an enemy wants to cross your line of sight at a distance between 200 m and 1200 m - lead ahead of him!

Because if you aim exactly at him, the enemy will have gone a few meters further in the time your shell takes to get there. It will not hit the place where he is, but where he was!

First, you must estimate how fast he is going:

Slow 10 km - Average 20 km - Fast 30 km

and then take a lead with the main reticule:

· for armor-piercing shells 39/40: Slow 3 - Average 6 - Fast 9 notch

· for high-explosive shells: Slow 4 - Average 8 - Fast 12 notch

Example: Truck is passing straight across at average speed.

“Machine gun 20 shots - 10 o’clock – 600 - truck - take lead 8 notch”!

Always use the minor reticule that fixes the target. That is what they are there for. And always let it run into the main reticule. If he is not going straight across but coming at you at an angle, then you take half the lead.

Example: Tank is approaching at an angle traveling at average speed.

“Anti-tank 39 - 1 o’clock - 600 - tank - take lead 3 notch!”

If your target is farther away than 1200 m - stop!

You will waste too much ammunition on moving targets.

The lead measurements are easily remembered by...

Moral: 9 and 6 and 3 - for tanks use we, 12 and 8 and 4 -

only for explosive, no chore.

Original page 79 translation

Centering

Motto: If it’s by a hair’s breadth,

without the optics means you’ll still miss!

When on the move always fasten down your gun. Still, they will deviate due to vibration. Adjust them yourself, then you know your weapon!

First the cannon: To do this you need a piece of thread and electrical tape or grease.

1. Attach a cross hairs across the muzzle.

2. Remove the firing pin.

3. Hold on to a distant target through the barrel.

Then the right scope: you will need a square head wrench for the optics.

1. Adjust to obtain a correct focus.

2. Adjust the range for the cannon to 0.

3. Remove the protector caps on the head-piece of the optics.

4. Centre the main reticule sideways on the target,

5. Centre the main reticule up or down on the target.

Then the left scope: You will need a square head wrench for the optics.

1. Adjust the range for the cannon to 1000 m.

2. Aim on to the target with the right scope.

3. Turn the reticule to the left.

4. Adjust to correct focus on the left.

5. Adjust the eye gap until both sights fall into one.

6. Adjust the auxiliary reticule sideways on the target.

7. Adjust the auxiliary reticule up or down on the target.

The emergency range is now fixed at 1000 m. Holding onto a target You can use it to hit any object that is 2 m high at a distance between 0 and 1000 m. Over 1000 m you must go into the target, or let the target vanish.

In the end, the turret - machine gun: You will need a perforated case. The loader always carries one with him.

1. Remove the base plate, take the lock out, insert the case into the barrel.

2. Adjust the machine gun range to the mark between 200 and 300 m.

3. Using the right scope take aim at the target over the main reticule.

4. Center the machine gun through the perforated base plate and the muzzle onto the target.

5. Check by shooting at the target.

Machine gun - front: Check by shooting at the target.

Moral: Regularly centre your cannon and you’ll fire with success!

Original page 81 translation

Tank Commander

“TANK COMMANDER SPEEDY QUICKTHINKER”

Only your clarity of thought, your assured order will give life to the Panzer, direction to speed, decisive impact to the projectile. You hold a hand full of trump cards, now learn to play the game.

Original page 82 translation

Order to Shoot

Motto: From past times until today, the order to shoot is sequenced.

1. Angle te musket in front.

2. Brace with left foot

3. Take out cartridge

4. Powder into barrel

5. Pull out ramrod

6. Brace ramrod against chest

7. Ram home 1-2-3

8. Take wadding out of pocket

9. Hold wadding in mouth

10. Bite off wadding

11. Insert into barrel

12. Ram home

13. Push in 1 - 2 - 3

14. Cock weapont

15. Suspend the weapon

16. Clean out the vent hole

17. Close pan

18. Take out powder horn

19. Powder in the pan

20. Return powder horn in place

21. Grimace

22. Cock the weapon

23. Point

24. Aim well

25. Give fire

26. Short prayer

27. Fire

In the war of 1618 - 1648, 27 commands were necessary to fire one shot. That is why it took so long. On top of that, the order to shoot was handled differently in various regiments. Some of them used no fewer than 90 commands!

Make it short! Compress your order into one short sequence consisting of 8 commands!

Original page 83 translation

Motto: 27 main tasks still remain - as shown in this chart

not counting the minor ones! Practice does it all!

Tank commander, Gunner, Loader, Driver, Radio operator: All are on the lookout, suddenly one of them spots something...

Driver: Reports distance “Contact”

Commander: Estimate, average “Contact”

Commander: Average “Contact”

Gunner: Reports distance “Contact”, “measuring”

Commander: 1. Select Weapon/ammo “7 goodies”

Gunner: 1. Remove tiedown “MO-FÜ-FA-LA-BA”

Loader:1. load “Bride”, “cannon”

Driver: 1. Stop “Driving”, “Daily meals”

Commander: 2. Turret position “Daily meals”

Gunner: 2. Rotate Turret “MO-FÜ-FA-LA-BA”

Loader: 2. Select gear emergency lever up

Driver: 2. Accelerate “MO-FÜ-FA-LA-BA”

Radio: 2. Selector lever to turret pos. “MO-FÜ-FA-LA-BA”

Commander: 3. Distance “Contact”, “Measuring”

Gunner: 3. Adjust range, “Belly Button rule”

Commander: 4. Target “Goetz Outreach” “Reticule”

Gunner: 4. Aim “Fire”

Commander: 5. Lead, “Lead”

Gunner: 5. Take lead, “Lead”

Commander: Checks auxiliary target

Gunner: 6. Reports auxiliary target

Loader: 6. Release

Commander: Wait for right moment

Gunner: Care with trigger

Loader: 7. reports ready

Commander: 8. Orders: Fire

Gunner: 8. lets off

All watch effect of the shot, “Fire”

Words in quotation marks refer to the respective chapters.

Original page 84 translation

Daily Meals

Motto: Not just the soldier is kept alive meals, but also the Panzer.

Your tank is

12 cm thick at the turret plate

10 cm thick at the front plate

8 cm thick at the side and rear plates

No-one else is!

But you yourself can make it even thicker!

When mother cuts the sausage straight, then that will yield one slice just as wide as the sausage is thick. But if she cuts at an angle, then the slice gets twice as wide!

We want more sausage now!

If you let someone fire at your tank straight on, then it is 10 cm thick and will sustain all calibers up to and including 75mm. But if you stand at an angle, then it is 13 cm thick.

A shot that hits at an angle penetrates much less, than one that hits head on. Therefore 13 cm thick plates hit at an angle gives the equivalent protection of armor that is 18 cm thick against a shot fired head on. (If you want to cut the sausage at an angle you need a sharper knife) Your armor placed at an angle is therefore in reality as strong as 18 cm and withstands all calibers up to and including 152 mm

Then you cannot be penetrated at all!

You see, just turning your tank from 12 to 1 o’clock makes it thicker by 2 cm. In order to penetrate these 2 cm your adversary has to come 1000 m closer.

1 cm of armor weighs the same as a firing range of 500 m!

If you stand at an angle this has the effect of placing your adversary 4 km farther distant, in one fell swoop. From there he can fire all he wants.

Here you can read all the positions and corresponding armor strength… and this shows your effective armor protection.

Original page 85 translation

The best positions towards the enemy are at

10 1/2, 1 1/2, 4 1/2 and 7 1/2 o’clock

According to the respective hours they are called meals.

To make communication easier, the second syllable is always stretched out - (breakfaaast) -

They are easy to learn when compared to the X-mark.

Driver!

When taking position always veer to the left or right, until the enemy stands at breakfast or lunch. (Try out the direction and memorize).

Gunner!

Fight dangerous targets from the direction of meals at all times. (Read position of turret on the clock and correct the driver).

Tank - Commander!

Approach dangerous enemy at an angle. Order 45 ° angle position, so that the enemy faces in direction of the meals. (Read position of target on the clock, correct the driver).

Moral: At mealtime - even with a 15.2 - you might get a scratch or two.

Your adversary has nothing but frustration, it’s a cakewalk for you.

Original page 86 translation

The Cloverleaf

Motto: If enemy moves inside in this cloverleaf, you may be in danger.

At what distance does a T-34 7,62 en long-barrel penetrate my armor?

· From direction 12 o’clock under 500 m.

· From direction 12 1/2 o’clock under 300 m.

· From direction 1 o’clock I am safe.

· From direction “Lunch” I am in the safest position.

· From direction 2 o’clock under 500 m.

· From direction 2 1/2 o’clock under 1300 m.

· From direction 3 o’clock under 1500 m.

· From direction 3 1/2 o’clock under 1300 m.

· From direction 4 o’clock under 500 m.

· From direction “Coffee”, I am safe, and so on.

If the enemy is located inside the cloverleaf, I will be penetrated. If he stays outside, I will be safe.

At “mealtime” the Tiger cannot be penetrated.

Men of the Tiger! It is in your own hands, whether the Tiger is safe or not. Enjoy your meals!

Should the enemy actually encroach inside the cloverleaf, don’t wet your pants right a way. Instead, turn the TIGER towards “mealtime”. Immediately the other guy is outside of it again. If two are firing at you simultaneously, turn one onto “mealtime” and blast the other one.

We look at the Tiger from up above

Lay our watch around it

And chart these distances.

If done for all hours, the lines connecting the charted dots yield a cloverleaf.

Original page 87 translation

For an opponent with a longer cannon, the cloverleaf is larger.

For enemy weaponry which can only penetrate less, it only has three leaves, because the front is then safe at any distance.

Only one number is what you need to memorize for each enemy tank, Then you will know the exact size of your cloverleaf!

For the T-34 with a 7.62 long-barrel it is...

1500m is the length of the three long leaves! (because the Tiger is equally thick on the side and arrears). Always 1000 m shorter than the longer leaves is the short one.

500 m (because the TIGER is 2 cm thicker in front).

The really smart ones can also calculate how far they may let the enemy approach them for positions 2, 4, 5, 1, 8 and 10 o’clock, and not be penetrated.

1000m This distance is also shorter than the large leaves, (because in that location the tank is 2 cm thicker)

The really extra smart ones will do the same for 11 and 1 o’clock The distance is 1000 m shorter than the smaller leaf, (because the Tiger is 2 cm thicker in that location than it is in front).

Moral: Should one of them be in your cloverleaf,

then throw him out with a dance.

Original page 88 translation

The Reticule Gap

Motto: The average one will shoot a lot,

the master shoots by chart and plot.

The artist compares his model with his work! If the sculpture fits right in between the two tips of the gauge, then he knows that he has the correct measurement.

The tanker compares the enemy to the reticule! If the T-34, seen from the front, fits exactly in between two reticules, then he has the correct measurement to fire at. You will then know:

1. That you will penetrate him, and

2. Which distance that is.

Through side and rear you can crack all enemy tanks under 2000 m. That is easy to remember.

All of them have a thicker front. In that case you must go closer, or let them get closer, for the T-34 that is 800 m. This distance is different for all tanks. Study the chart on armor location supplied with the manual. The reticule-gap will tell you when you are close enough to shoot. For the T-34 it is 43, for instance.

4 = reticule-gap, front:

The T-34 must be 4 notch wide, so that you may kill him head on. (He has to fit between two reticules). He is then 800 m distant.

3 = reticule-gap, side:

The T-34 must be 3 notch wide, so that you can penetrate the side. He is then 2000 m distant.

Reticule-gap, rear: is always half of reticule-gap, side, in this case 1 1/2 notch. He is then 2000 m distant.

For really smart ones:

If an enemy tank turns “side” to his own “mealtime”, then his target size will be enlarged by 10% at the most. This error of 10% is included. You must then shoot at the turret center, so that your shot will hit vertically.

Moral: The reticule-gap will show you that you can crack him and when.

Original page 89 translation

“Wanted”

Motto: This reference you must remember your bride’s picture and number.

Every kid knows the Spitfire and the HE 111.

Every youngster can tell a Ford V-8 from an Opel Kapitaen at 500 m distance. The old foxes recognize a DKW-250 by its sound.

Surely then you must be able to learn the differences between each enemy tank and learn to recognise them! Immediately sit down and study the tank identification chart supplied with this manual.

Memorise the appearance and the following 5 typical features:

T34: 15 - 8 - 43

KW1: 9 - 4 - 84

Churchill III: 7 - 15 - 24

Lee: 8 - 20 - 13

Sherman: 8 - 8 - 43

You will then master the tank-duel with each of the enemies in your sleep.

T - 34 Type

15: Clover-leaf I will be penetrated side and rear closer than 1500 m. Front always 1000 m less, in this case on from 500 m, never at “mealtime”

8: Distance I penetrate front at 800m side and rear at 2000 m for all tanks.

4: Reticule-gap, front 4 notch is width of T-34 at 800m.

3: Reticule-gap, side 3 notch is width of T-34 at 2000 m rear is always half of reticule-gap, side in this case 1 1/2 notch

Moral: Often the same number is fatal or fabulous.

Do you stand to lose or gain? One will rise and one will fall.

Original page 90 translation

Goetz Outreaches Ivan

Motto: He who reaches farther easily can knock the other one in the face!

You hold the enemy at a distance with your iron fist and knock him out without him being able to even nibble on you.

You are further away from the opponent than he is from you!

The Goetz Outreach is the space between your cloverleaf and your maximum range.

Pay attention!

You can kill the T-34 head on at 800 m. The T-34 can kill you only starting at 500 m.

Goetz Outreach: Between 500 m and 800 m you can kill him but he cannot kill you. You must try to be in that range for battle!

If you stand at “mealtime”, you cannot possibly lose this round!

You take more weight and more range into the ring. You always beat him!

Isn’t that a killer thing?

The 5 charts supplied with the manual lay out your potential opponents in a tank-duel. They contain cloverleaf, reticule-gap, character reference and Goetz Outreach for your most dangerous enemies. Look at them for however long it takes to memorize them, so that you will know the entire chapter as soon as their description is on your lips. Just the same, as you do with the picture in your shirt-pocket, when thinking of “her”.

Moral: It’s the moral of the story I can hit you,

but you can’t hit me

Original page 91 translation

For every shell, that you fire off

Your father has paid 100 RM in taxes, your mother worked one week in the factory. The trains had to travel 10,000 km.

Think of that each time you want to fire!

Explosive shells onto targets not positively identified or onto targets that can be destroyed with the machine gun are a criminal waste.

Anti-tank grenades fired at useless range, at tanks already damaged, or poorly aimed only chisel off some steel!

Men of the Tiger!

Save! Make good use of the thick armor! Be resolute ! It’s cheaper to overrun than to fire the machine gun! The Machine gun is cheaper than cannon! Return the cases and packaging material.

The Tiger guzzles down the fuel by the can.

Every litre has to be hauled from 3000 km away:

Men of the Tiger!

Save! Be stingy with every Litre! Don’t let the engine run needlessly! Are you sure when the next fuel ration will arrive?

All included the Tiger costs 800,000 RM and 300,000 man-hours to produce. 30,000 people have to give a whole weeks pay and 6000 men have to work a whole week, so that you will get one Tiger. They all work for you.

Men of the Tiger!

Consider what you hold in your grasp! Keep it in good shape! They are stealing the tanks! Grab them where the thieves are found!

Original page 92 translation

Supplied with this manual are:

1. Tank identification chart Russia

2. Armor location chart 8.8 KwK 36

3. Anti-Goetz T - 34

K V 1

Churchill III

Lee

Sherman

If you find an error or have any questions, please email us at admin@erenow.org. Thank you!