9
YOUR YOUNG HORSE IS WELL HALTER-TRAINED, has been bridled and saddled, and is accustomed to the bit. He knows about turning and stopping. Now the big day has arrived when you will ride him for the first time.
Accustom the Horse to the Saddle
When your horse is saddled, get him used to the feel of it as you pull on a stirrup from each side, wiggle the saddle, and put a little weight across the saddle seat. Put on the saddle and take it off a number of times and from both sides. Lead him with it on, at both a walk and a trot, so he gets used to it when moving as well as standing still. At the trot he may be alarmed if the saddle makes noises or the stirrups bounce and bump him in the ribs. He must overcome any nervousness about the saddle before you mount.
Traveling with the Saddle
If your horse is a little spooky about the saddle, spend some lessons longeing and ponying him with it on so he becomes familiar with its movement on his back and the flopping of the stirrups. It’s best if he never learns he can buck with a saddle (or a rider) on; if he is alarmed by the saddle, however, and tries to buck it off, you must help him get beyond this stage of insecurity before you get on him. Longe or pony him as many times as necessary until he is completely at ease with it (see pages 146 and 155 for more on longeing and ponying).
Conduct the first saddle lessons longeing and ponying in a pen. There, if the horse gets too excited and pulls away from you, he won’t be able to go far. After he is more at ease with the situation, you can pony him carrying the saddle out across country if you’d like to.
PLAN FOR SUCCESS
First rides are important in setting the stage for the rest of your horse’s training; make sure these lessons go well. Choose a time when the weather is right and when there isn’t much going on to distract or upset your horse. Dogs should be tied up, and no children should be playing in the area. Saddle and bridle the horse. Check that everything fits properly and comfortably. Tighten the cinch sufficiently so the saddle won’t slip or turn when you get on.
A young horse doesn’t have much in the way of withers — he gets his height at the croup first and the withers catch up later — and doesn’t hold a saddle as well as does an older horse. You don’t want the saddle even slightly loose, or it may turn if your horse spooks and wheels, forcing all of your weight into one stirrup. You also don’t want the saddle pulled forward onto his neck if he tries to buck; putting down his head forcefully will pull on the saddle horn if the halter rope is tied to the horn. Finally, the cinch should not be uncomfortably tight, but it should be tight enough to firmly hold the saddle during an anxious moment for the horse.
For first mounted lessons, you may want to use a Western saddle. You can leave on a close-fitting halter under the bridle and tie the halter rope to the saddle horn. Allow the halter rope to be slack enough that it doesn’t interfere with normal movement of his head and neck but tight enough that he can’t get his head down far enough to buck.
First Mounting
For first mountings and first rides, use a corral or pen. Some trainers mount a young horse in his stall the first time; he can’t get away if something unexpected happens. You can undertake the lessons that follow working by yourself or with a helper, depending on your preference and on the horse. A horse may have been so calm and comfortable about everything you’ve done to this point that you’re confident he’ll stand quietly for this, too. Another may be more nervous, and you may want a helper to hold the insecure horse.
Longe or pony the horse before getting on him the first few times. This will take the edge off his high spirits and allow him to be more calm and settled. If he’s been working a little, he’ll be more willing to stand still and relax when you get on and off.
Stand Still for Mounting
Your horse should learn to stand quietly for mounting and dismounting. As you work around him, require that he stand. If he moves forward or fidgets, tell him Whoa and make him stand still. If you let him get away with moving, you’ll have problems later. If he is in the habit of standing still at your command, you will be able to check him instantly with voice and rein cues if he starts to move.
Use a Mounting Aid
If you are short and your horse is tall, use a mounting block of some kind. A bale of hay or straw works well for this; it is something the horse is not afraid of. Lead him up to it and ask him to stand. Let him get used to your standing on a bale of straw next to him. This also accustoms him to having you above him, as when mounted. Talk to him, rub him, keep him relaxed. With the aid of a mounting block or straw bale, it is easy to lean over the saddle and start getting him used to having a little weight on it.
Use a bale of straw or a mounting
block as an aid when you mount
for the first time.
Have Someone Hold the Horse
It’s handy to have a good helper as you accustom the horse to having weight in the saddle. From both sides you can fuss with the stirrups, put weight in them, and lean over the horse. A person holding the horse should be calm and at ease. A horse can sense when someone is nervous and will become nervous also.
The helper stands on the same side you’re on and holds the horse by the halter. If the horse bolts or spooks, you want him to circle away from you rather than crashing into you; if you are both on the same side, the horse will tend to move away if he panics. You don’t want the horse held by the bridle; this may hurt his mouth and startle him if he starts moving and must be controlled by your assistant.
Put Weight in the Stirrups
Before you get on, put weight in the left stirrup. Pull or push down on it with your hand, and if this doesn’t bother the horse, put your foot in the stirrup and put your weight on it. If you are short, stand on a bale of straw.
Hold the left rein in your left hand, along with some mane, so you can check the horse or pull his head around in a circle if he starts to move. Use your right hand on the saddle horn as you step into the stirrup. Stand with some weight in the stirrup but don’t swing into the saddle yet. Step back down, and repeat this until you are sure he accepts the feel of your weight in one stirrup.
When your horse is calm, stand with your weight in the stirrup, and gently pat him on the neck and rump. This gets him used to your being up there, yet you are not in the saddle and can easily step back down if he starts to jump around. If he’s nervous, just put your foot in the stirrup again and again, without putting weight on it, until he is calm.
Standing with weight in the stirrup
SAFETY TIP
When working with a green horse, never put your foot all the way into a stirrup during mounting lessons. That way, if he jumps, you can safely pull out your foot. If you’re just getting up and down in the stirrup, use your toe. Don’t put your feet clear into the stirrups until you are actually on him and plan to stay on him.
Lean over the Saddle
To get the horse accustomed to your weight, lean your upper body over the saddle. You can do this most easily from a mounting block or bale, but it can also be done from the ground. This is a safe position — you can readily slide back off if the horse becomes alarmed.
Hanging your body weight on a
saddle, while a helper holds the horse,
helps to determine whether the horse
will stay calm for mounting.
Hold on to his mane and the reins with your left hand; pat him and grasp the saddle with your right. When your horse is relaxed, spring lightly up and across the saddle, keeping the horse checked with your left hand. If you are tall enough, or if the horse is short, simply lean over the saddle when standing on the straw bale. After a moment, slide back off and praise him.
If you are using a flat saddle (no cantle), move into mounted position from leaning over his back. After balancing over his back on the saddle — during either the first lesson or in subsequent lessons, depending on how soon he stays relaxed and no longer stiffens with nervousness — swing your leg over, taking care not to touch his hindquarters, and sit on him. Keep your body low at first; with some horses, your sudden towering above them is what’s startling.
If you’re using a Western saddle, it’s not so easy to swing into mounted position from leaning across the saddle, and you’re more apt to alarm the horse by trying. It’s better to mount the traditional way (see page 240) after getting him used to having your weight across the saddle.
If you are working alone with a nervous horse, one way to get him used to your weight, with the least amount of risk if he is accustomed to being in a stall, is to conduct the lesson in a large box stall having no low beams, mangers, or feed racks. Place a straw bale about 4 feet from the wall on one side, and lead him between the bale and the wall so that he is facing the far wall. He is thus contained by two walls and the bale. Stand on the bale, talking to him to keep him relaxed, then lean your weight over the saddle.
Getting on the First Time
When you get on, do it in a pen, so if the horse moves out, it will be in a safe place. Talk to your horse, rub him, get him relaxed and standing still as you move around him, tugging on stirrup leathers, putting weight in the stirrup (always working on either side). When he is calm, and after you’ve stepped up and down in the stirrup a few times, go ahead and mount. Do it smoothly and easily, taking care to keep your leg from touching his rump (which might startle him). Ease into the saddle; never drop your weight into it. Keep a short rein so you can check your horse if he starts to move. If he gets nervous as you begin to mount, step down and calm him. When he is reassured and standing, try again.
Repeat Lessons
When you’re in the saddle, don’t put your foot into the off stirrup just yet. Sit there a moment, and talk quietly to your horse. Rub him and praise him; get him used to your being up there. Then dismount and mount again, repeating this several times so he learns that this procedure is nothing to be afraid of.
By getting on him and right back off, you let him realize there’s nothing to fear; you’ve been on his back, and nothing bad happened, which gives both of you more confidence. You may continue with the lesson, or this may be a good place to stop for the day. If your horse is insecure, do only a small step at a time; his security and confidence will increase with each success, and you’ll be less apt to run into trouble. When you get on him again the next day, he will be more at ease, ready to progress to the next steps.
Each time you get on, stay on a little longer. When your horse is comfortable with it, move around in the saddle, lean over his neck, rub his neck and his rump — get him used to your being up there. When he accepts this calmly, he’s ready to move out.
FIRST MOUNTING
A. A helper holds the horse while the rider pats and reassures
the horse in preparation for mounting.
B. Put weight in the stirrups a few times before mounting.
C. Swing lightly and
carefully into the saddle so
you don’t startle the horse.
D. After settling into the saddle, reassure and praise the horse.
Moving Out
If your horse starts to move when you first mount, either check him (halt and make him stand) to practice mounting and dismounting or let him move, as long as it is in a controlled manner. If he moves because he is startled, check him and have him stand quietly a moment. If he is moving in a calm manner, it’s fine to let him continue; you can get him used to repeated mounting and dismounting later. For the moment, let him move about, in whatever direction he wants to go, while he gets used to the extra weight of a person on his back.
Encouraging a Reluctant Horse
Up to this point, you have been teaching your horse to stand still while you mount; now you have to teach him that it’s all right to move. Many horses don’t move when mounted the first time. They are bewildered and stand rooted to the ground. After you’ve mounted and dismounted a few times and are ready to move out, cluck to him and then squeeze a little with your legs. He doesn’t know about leg pressure yet and must learn to make the association.
Squeeze or bump the horse with the calves of your legs where they hang in the stirrups, just to the rear of the cinch. You may have to squeeze or bump him with your legs two or three times in sequence until he gets the idea to move. Lean forward slightly so your position will encourage him to move in order to restore balance. If you have used clucking noises as a cue to move forward or move faster during ground work when teaching him to lead at the trot, for example, the horse will associate the cue with the idea that he is to move forward. If he still doesn’t move, turn his head a little, pulling it to the side and down, with one rein. This will usually put him off balance, and he will have to take a step.
BE SURE THE HORSE UNDERSTANDS
If the horse won’t move when you ask him, enlist a helper to lead him a few steps as you give the cue to move out. The helper can snap a lead rope on to the halter, then unsnap it after the horse gets the idea. If the horse is still reluctant to move or won’t keep going, have your helper longe him at a walk. This is something with which the horse is familiar; he will soon figure out that when you use leg pressure and clucking sounds, he should move.
The rider pulls the horse’s
head around and leans a
little to get him off balance
so he will take a step.
Never kick or use your heels, and don’t put pressure back toward his flanks. Kicking generally startles or confuses a young horse, and he may jump forward and start to buck. Kicking is like slapping or hitting. It’s a form of punishment rather than a cue; he won’t understand what you want.
The first step your horse takes with an unaccustomed weight on his back may thoroughly alarm him because your weight changes his balance. Speak reassuringly to him. Allow him to take several steps, but be prepared to halt him at any time if he becomes so frightened that he tries to run or buck.
If He Panics
If your horse spooks or jumps forward, stay calm and speak reassuringly as you try to keep your balance and seat. If the halter rope is tied to the saddle horn, the horse can’t buck hard, and you can probably keep your seat. To control a buck or bolt, pull the horse’s head strongly around to one side or turn him into the fence. Don’t pull on both reins at once, which he’d be able to pull against; he can’t run or buck if he is turning in a tight circle.
Halt him, and let him stand for a few moments. Speak calmly to him so he knows it’s just you up there on his back, nothing to be afraid of. Rub him, and allay his fears. After he is calm again, ask him to move out once more. Do not dismount and end the lesson until he is calm, or he may think that by bucking or bolting he can make you get off.
If he is still nervous and you are not confident about riding him, have a helper snap a lead onto his halter and lead him around the pen. This will keep the horse under control until he becomes more at ease with a rider on his back. Once he gets over his initial fear or unfamiliarity with the extra weight and settles down, have the helper unsnap the lead and step back, allowing you to continue around the pen.
HOW TO PREVENT BUCKING
Usually, the green horse will never buck during first lessons because he has confidence in you — if you have done all the proper ground work, that is. But even an insecure horse may not buck for the first ride or two, because he is unsure of himself. If he is really afraid, and explodes right into bucking, it means he was not yet ready for this step in his training.
Generally, when a horse bucks, it is because of discomfort or confusion over the many new things being done to him all at once. A few horses will buck because they don’t like being mounted, and some that seemed fine on the first ride or two may buck on the third or fourth ride because they are more confident in their desire to get rid of the weight or encumbrance on their back.
By preparing for first rides gradually, and by getting the horse accustomed to your commands, your signals, and the properly fitted equipment, you should have done away with any confusion or irritation. Prepare for first rides with lots of ground work, so the horse is relaxed and never discovers he can buck with someone on his back.
Stopping and Turning
After the horse has walked around the pen, stop him with Whoa and a pull on the reins. Use a gentle squeeze and release, one rein at a time, in a seesaw action. This is more effective than a steady or hard pull. He should stop readily, as Whoa and the pull on the reins should be familiar to him from leading lessons with the bridle or from driving lessons. An easy way to halt him is to use one rein to turn him toward the fence — just enough to stop him. If he is nervous, this is a good place to stop — after a successful walk around the pen and a quiet halt.
If the horse is calm, however, you can continue the lesson. Practice moving out and stopping. Repeat this several times: walk him forward, and let him go at random for a few moments; then halt him, and let him stand. The first ride only needs to be 5 or 10 minutes. You want to build gradually, ensuring that each ride is successful and provides the horse with a positive experience. Don’t overdo it; if you make the first ride too long, there is more of a risk that the horse will decide he doesn’t want to cooperate.
Use of Rein and Leg Signals
Once your horse is moving out at your signal and stopping well, begin guiding his direction as he walks. Use gentle leg pressure on the side away from which you want him to turn. He will tend to turn away from the leg pressure, especially if you did some ground work teaching him to turn on his quarters or forehand (see chapter 6) — he will know he is supposed to move away from pressure. As you use your leg, gently give and take on the direct rein to pull him around. Use your hands low on the reins.
If at times your horse does not want to turn, don’t pull firmly or jerk on the rein; this will only hurt his mouth and create more resistance. He will want to pull away to avoid the pain. Just pull gently and hold, with steady pressure until he gives, and then you can reward him with slack in the rein. At this stage you don’t need his response to be perfect. He is learning many things in addition to reining, and they all take time.
Use leg pressure when turning. Encourage your horse to turn right by using the left leg behind the girth. Keep your hands low on the reins.
Using a Fence as an Aid
As you begin working on his turning, use the fence to advantage. As he comes toward it, use the reins and your legs to encourage your horse to turn one way or the other. If he begins to turn a certain way of his own accord, encourage the turn so he will begin to associate your signals with the turning. Help him along.
Short Rides around the Pen
For the first few days, take short rides, building step-by-step on previous lessons. By keeping rides brief and always ending on a positive note, you are setting the stage for a successful lesson the next day. The horse will have a good memory about the lesson and be in a positive frame of mind the next time.
Use the fence as an aid
when turning. When the horse
reaches the fence, he’s better
able to understand your cue
because he knows he can’t
continue forward.
Don’t Overdo First Lessons
Be careful not to overdo the first few lessons; 10 to 15 minutes of riding the first few times around the pen may be long enough. First rides are just more small steps in schooling. Ride your horse just long enough that he gets used to your being on him but not so long that he starts to resent it. Remember, you are improving his muscle tone and refining his awareness of mounted cues in these first sessions.
Unsaddle your horse, talk to him, praise him. Goals are achieved by going gradually and not continuing beyond his attention span. Your horse will stay attentive and continue to learn; you don’t want him to become tired, bored, resentful, or rebellious.
Frequent Short Lessons
Most horses make more progress with frequent short lessons rather than occasional long ones. Once you start riding the green horse, ride him daily, even twice a day. Ride him regularly for the first weeks to keep him coming along well.
This is where some trainers overdo it. Perhaps you’ve been working with a young horse for 2 or 3 years and are finally riding him, but now you’re spending more time saddling and unsaddling than riding! Remember that you’re laying an important foundation, and it’s best to go slowly at this point. Also keep in mind that your horse is still young (especially if he’s a two-year-old) and physically immature. Even if he is well grown, his bones and joints are not yet mature. Too much riding too soon can cause permanent damage. Give him lessons on mounting and dismounting, and go for short rides around the corral only.
DISMOUNTING WITH CARE
When you end the lesson and dismount, do it carefully. Though you have practiced getting on and off, this is still a new experience for the horse, and you don’t want to startle him. Halt, and have him stand quietly. Ease your left foot partway out of the stirrup so if he jumps while you dismount, your foot won’t hang up. Put both reins in your left hand, with the left rein a little shorter, so if he moves, he will move toward you instead of away from you as you get off. Hold the mane in your left hand so you can use your right hand on the saddle to ease yourself off quickly. Tell him Whoa again. Shift your weight so he knows you’re going to do something and your dismount won’t startle him. Be careful not to touch his hindquarters with your right leg as you dismount.
If he starts to move, check him, tell him Whoa, and start over. Make him stand as you get on and off a few more times before you put him away.
Stick to a Routine
Once you start riding a horse, ride him briefly every day. After the two of you are well started, you can give him a day off now and then, but it’s best to have regular lessons at first. This keeps him in the mood for learning. If your horse has too much vacation between rides, he’s more apt to goof off or test your control.
Avoid Boredom
Keep progressing and doing new things so your horse has new challenges to keep his interest. Though you are doing a lot of repetition to solidify lessons, don’t drill the same tasks over and over again. Some horses become sour or lazy if they get bored; others think up devious or prankish behavior. Some need to get out of the corral soon after the first lessons and see new things. To keep your young horse’s mind fresh and willing, get out and across country as soon as you’ve ridden enough in the corral to establish the basics of stopping and turning for control of him (see chapter 10).
Continue His “Calmness” Lessons
You don’t want your horse to become startled out on the trail if you move your arm to adjust your helmet. While making short rides around the pen, get him used to things that happen while he’s being ridden. Halt him, and move around in the saddle to get him used to weight shifts. Lean forward and back, patting his neck and his rump so he won’t be jumpy if something bumps his rump.
When you first start riding a horse, minimize your actions and keep them slow and quiet. But after he is used to your being on his back, gradually familiarize him with more actions. Move your arms, and as he gets used to that, move them more. Then if you wave at a friend or grab your hat in a gust of wind, you won’t scare your horse out of his wits.
First Trotting Lessons
After you’ve ridden him a number of times, you can tell whether your horse is ready to move on to faster gaits. This varies greatly from horse to horse, depending on physical and mental readiness. Your horse must be not only physically ready — able to balance himself with a rider on his back and handle himself at the walk, stop, and while turning — but mentally prepared as well. He must be calm and comfortable about everything. He must respond properly to cues and enjoy the lessons. If he is at all insecure or awkward, he is not ready.
The Signal to Trot
When teaching your horse to trot, or to make a transition from one gait to another, or to slow down or speed up a certain gait, give him a cue that is easy for him to understand. If you’ve been working with him at the walk, he should already know that leg pressure means to move forward and that increased, intermittent leg pressure means to speed up the walk. If you have used leg pressure correctly, your horse has already made the association that moving faster gives him release from pressure.
A press with your legs when he is standing encourages him to move forward and walk: he knows the pressure will stop when he starts moving. Leg pressure while walking taught him to move a little faster in order for the pressure to cease. A continuation of this logic will help him move into the trot. Rather than introduce a new command he might not understand, expand on cues your horse already knows. He knows that leg pressure accompanied by a slight forward shift of your body weight means he should restore balance by moving forward or going a little faster.
WHEN TO TROT
When the horse is ready to start trotting, you should both feel comfortable about trying it. For some this will happen within a couple of days or a week after you start riding; for others it might take two months and many long walks. Each horse is different — don’t rush yours. If you try faster gaits before he’s ready, it will be difficult for him physically and will possibly create a problem. Remember, your goal is to see how well you can train your horse; be patient, and progress at a speed that’s right for him.
Never Kick Him
It may be tempting to kick a little if your horse does not respond adequately to increased leg pressure, but don’t do it. Kicking a horse in the sides to try to encourage a faster gait just confuses him and usually brings a response that is the opposite of what you want.
Imagine the situation from the horse’s point of view. He’s walking along briskly because you encouraged this with a squeeze of your legs; he has sped up his walk in response to a squeeze. Suddenly, you kick him in the sides. He doesn’t know what this means and thinks he has done something wrong. A typical reaction to that, for many young horses, is to stop. They perceive the kick as punishment, thinking they are being reprimanded for moving forward.
If the horse stops suddenly, you may be taken by surprise and momentarily stop kicking — which makes him think he did the right thing. He’s rewarded for stopping; you stopped kicking. You have inadvertently taught him that a kick means “stop”! Then your natural reaction is to start kicking again in an attempt to make him move forward. He is again confused. He may tense up and just stand, or he may try a different movement to get away from the kicking—he could back up, go sideways, or start bucking. If he does go forward, he will still be confused unless you immediately stop kicking. It will take several patient lessons to reestablish communication. Avoid this mistake: Don’t kick!
Gradual Steps to First Trotting
The goal is to teach your horse to move into a trot at your cue. This is best accomplished by making every effort to help him understand what you are asking, and the way to do that is to expand on what he already knows. The first couple of times you ask him to trot, do it safely in a round pen or small corral, where he doesn’t have room to take off and run. In the small pen, you can teach him to trot and to circle briefly and stop before you try it in a large arena. You can also pull his head around (with the bridle rein or hackamore) to stop him if he bolts (see box, Doubling, on page 200).
First walk him around the pen, then ask him to speed up the walk by applying light leg pressure. If you used clucking or kissing noises in earlier training, this cue can be helpful now. Your horse will understand that the leg pressure with clucking means to move forward and respond with more energy in his walk.
Even if it lasts only a stride or two, his moving more energetically in response to your cue should be rewarded. When he feels the release of leg pressure and hears no more clucking, the horse knows he did the right thing. After he travels a bit farther, ask again — and again reward him if he responds by moving faster. Soon he will realize that he should walk faster when these cues are given and eventually will break into a trot after you have pushed him faster. When he does, immediately reward him with release of leg pressure.
Let him trot a moment, then allow him to drop back to a walk. If he doesn’t slow down on his own, give a slight check with the reins and shift your weight back by sitting deeper into the saddle. If he trots exuberantly, keep control with a light feel on the bit (and halter, if needed) so he won’t go on to a canter. Be prepared to double him or pull his head around to circle and stop if he does escalate into a canter or gallop.
Don’t overdo the lessons. Work at the trot for short periods at first, as this gait can be physically taxing on a young horse until he learns to carry a rider. Spend a few days working on transitions from walk to trot and back again.
Don’t Canter Yet
Wait to teach cantering until the horse is well trained at the walk and trot. Young horses get emotionally carried away at the canter, as this is the gait they use when frolicking and playing. If you try it before your horse is mentally ready, he’ll want to run faster or buck; his focus certainly won’t be on you. Save this phase of your horse’s training until he’s farther along and more cooperative and you have more control. This will come after a number of longer rides out in the open. Once you have developed good communication and control at the walk and trot, you can think about the canter. This gait is usually not attempted in early mounted lessons and is discussed in detail in chapter 14.
USE BODY LANGUAGE
Use body language — that is, rhythm — with seat and legs to help cue your horse as to which gait he should execute. At first you will have to exaggerate it until he gets the idea. Soon, though, he will find that your rhythm is the most comfortable one to follow and will adjust his gait accordingly — he’ll walk when your body rhythm says “walk” and trot when the action in your seat and legs pushes more forward and says “trot.” To slow him, slow your body action. To cue him to speed up, your body becomes more active as you push with your seat bones. Soon your horse will be able to read your signals through body cues and won’t need much rein pressure.
Nip Problems in the Bud
Correct any problems as they occur, before they become bad habits. If your horse tries to travel too fast or won’t stand still for mounting, now is the time to correct it. Most bad habits start because a horse is allowed to do something, instead of being corrected the first few times it happens.
He Won’t Stand Still for Mounting
Your horse decides he isn’t going to stand still so you can mount him. This is a common habit and usually starts because the trainer is not consistent about making the horse stand each time he is mounted. This can become a dangerous habit if the horse takes off when the rider is only halfway onto his back. It often starts subtly: the horse begins moving as the rider gets into the saddle, and the rider doesn’t stop him. Soon the horse is moving when the rider barely has a foot in the stirrup.
Don’t let this become a habit. Always make your horse stand while you mount, settle into the saddle, and put your right foot in the off stirrup. If he moves, make him stand. Sit there a while, if necessary. Let him know he is not to move until you give the cue. If he has a problem with this, repeat earlier lessons — make him stand as you prepare to mount, while you have weight on one stirrup, and after you’re on his back.
MOUNTING TIP
If the horse won’t stand still as you mount, make sure you are not inadvertently causing him to move off by bumping him with your leg as it goes over his back or by poking his side with the toe of your boot when you get on.
Enlist a Helper
If your horse still won’t stand still, go back to the very beginning and have a helper hold him while you get on and off many times at the start of a ride. If the horse is not allowed to move out, he will accept the fact that he must stand still. Then you can progress to making him stand without your assistant. You don’t want your horse to get into the habit of being held when you get on, so use the helper only temporarily; keep working on the problem until you resolve it.
Practice at the End of a Long Ride
Some “spirited” horses are more willing to stand still after they have become a little tired. Practice mounting and dismounting after a ride when your horse is tired or more relaxed. He’ll quickly realize there’s no point in trying to move off; he’s already had his ride and wants to stay home now. A few calm practices at the ends of rides will help him get in the habit of standing still when asked.
The Overeager Horse
Some young horses are lazy, and your challenge is to get them to move briskly. Others are overeager and go too fast: if walking, they want to be trotting; if trotting, they want to gallop. Your goal with the eager beaver is to gain control until your horse has learned to adjust his speed to your wishes.
Use Side Reins
You don’t want to make a horse hard-mouthed by constantly pulling on his mouth or even by continual give-and-take checking with the reins. One thing that works well on the overeager green horse is to snap side reins onto the halter, which is worn under the bridle. You will thus be holding a halter rein and a bit rein in each hand. You can hold the reins in such a way that part of the pressure comes on the halter when you check the horse. He already knows about halter pressure from when you taught him to lead (see pages 129–35). He can thus have the signal via the halter as well as the bit, so you won’t have to use the bit strongly while he’s still learning how to respond to it.
You want his mouth to remain light and responsive. To achieve this, never pull hard on it. (The exception is a safety risk if your horse is startled into bolting or bucking, in which case you must pull his head around sharply to the side. If you have halter reins, much of this pull can be on the halter, and you will not hurt his mouth.)
PROCEED AT THE HORSE’S PACE
Work on control of slower gaits before you try anything faster. Your horse should be well under control at a walk before you try a trot, and he should be able to perform maneuvers at a trot before you try a gallop. If he can’t handle something at the slower gait, he’ll definitely have trouble at a faster gait; speed is where you’ll get into problems. Do a lot of training at the walk and trot, and it will be easier to keep the horse under control at a gallop.
Back to the Pen
Another solution for the overeager horse is to work him more in the pen until you have control over his gaits. When he starts to get tired or bored, he will slow down. There is not much to see in a pen, not much incentive to go fast. In contrast, a lazy horse will be easier to teach to walk faster if you take him out of the pen and go on long rides: he will be interested in going someplace and seeing new things.
Tailor Training to His Mood
Use good judgment and good timing so you can correct a problem in the easiest possible way, at the best possible time, using your horse’s situation to advance the lessons. Don’t teach a stand-still lesson when he’s fresh and exuberant; don’t ask for an extended trot when he’s tired. If your horse is tired, work on things that require standing still, such as mounting and having his feet picked up. When he’s fresh and wants to go, work on things that require movement — gait transitions, trotting, changes of speed and direction.
After he is more relaxed and has the edge off his exuberance, work on things that take less physical effort and more concentration; he won’t be fighting you to go, go, go. Time your lessons for when your pupil will be most receptive; he’ll be more likely to respond properly and less apt to fight or pick up bad habits by resisting.
The Bucking Horse
Some horses are just plain nervous, and it doesn’t take much to startle them into bucking. If your horse is ready to explode with extra energy each time you ride, longe or pony him before you get on (see pages 146 and 155). Taking the edge off before each mounted lesson will help settle him down. This is far better than having to fight him to keep him calm. A “cold-backed” horse who bucks when first mounted or one that humps his back and is tense when saddled may also benefit from warm-up exercise. If the horse tends to buck, be especially sure the saddle fits; he may be reacting to discomfort or pain (see box on page 418).
If the horse responds with a buck to everything he doesn’t like, take him to a professional trainer. Horses who insist on bucking are rare, but occasionally, you’ll run across one that needs a more experienced hand, and you are better off letting a professional work with him.
Use the Halter Rope
If a horse thinks about bucking, keep tying the halter rope to the saddle horn for as long as needed during early training sessions. This technique keeps his head up so he can’t get it down enough to buck hard. You may have to do this for the first week or even the first month; it all depends on your horse. If you prefer, you can use the overcheck, from the bitting harness, instead of tying the halter rope. Whatever method you choose, stick with it until you’re sure your horse won’t try to buck anymore.
Use a Baby-Sitter Horse
When making first rides across country with a nervous, skittish horse who explodes when he gets upset, have another horse and rider accompany you. This will give your horse more security. He’ll focus on the other horse and will probably be able to keep his cool in situations that might otherwise cause him to bolt or buck.
The Exuberant Horse
Some horses are energetic and constantly want to be on the go. They’re not interested in standing still or relaxing. If this describes your horse, using side reins (see page 258) can help if he is difficult to control. Even if he responds well to control, he may be so full of energy that you must go several miles before he’ll settle down for lessons. Longeing or ponying before a ride can help, but once you are started in training, you may have to travel miles and miles across country before you ask the horse to concentrate on further lessons.
Riding miles at a brisk walk will help settle him. Once he is fit and his young legs and joints aren’t easily injured, ride at a trot. Trotting a mile or so will relax him, and he’ll start paying attention to you rather than charging ahead. Galloping is counterproductive; a green horse doesn’t know how to handle himself with a rider. At a gallop he would become more exuberant. It would be more challenging to teach him to control his energy and rate of speed; you’d be pulling on him too much. Use a walk and trot to settle him, then work on gait transitions and exercises to keep his mind on his work and on you. Make productive training experiences out of his desire to be on the move.
Ride Daily
The enthusiastic, energetic horse will be more of a handful if you skip a training day. This type of horse often progresses best if he has no time off from lessons until he becomes more settled. He will accept the routine more quickly if you ride him every day. A young horse who tends to be silly or skittish will be even more so if he has much time off. As the old-timers would say, this type of horse “can’t stand prosperity.” The easy life is not for him; he’ll do much better if he works regularly.
TEACH PATIENCE
If a horse anticipates — he wants to move before you are ready, for example, or makes gait transitions on his own — make a habit of having him wait for your cue. Even if you were going to ask for a faster gait, if he anticipates your command and moves to a trot before your cue, slow him to a walk, then ask him to trot. He must learn to wait for your direction or you won’t be the one in control.