8

Bitting and Driving

THE INFORMATION IN THIS CHAPTER can be used to train any horse and will be especially helpful before beginning a horse’s mounted training. The suggested practices will make it easier for the young horse to respond properly to the bit and ensure that his first mounted lessons go smoothly and safely.

There is no best way to train a horse. Some trainers use a bitting harness to get a horse accustomed to the feel of bit pressure. Some drive the young horse in long lines, walking behind him with long reins attached to the bit, before riding. Every trainer has his own favorite methods, and every horse is unique. It’s good to know a number of different methods that work, because what works well for one horse may not work for another. Feel your way with each individual, keeping in mind his personality and his feelings.

TREAT EACH HORSE AS AN INDIVIDUAL

Horses become ready for new challenges at different rates and react to new experiences in different ways. A rigid training schedule or method will cause problems eventually. The youngster you are working with may not be ready for the next step you’ve planned or may suddenly seem ready for something you hadn’t yet thought to try. You must be able to feel his mood and readiness, to sense when he is or is not ready for what you want to do. You will gain insight into his level of readiness as you work with the horse and get to know him. Be intuitive, and seek to become partners with the horse you are training.

Bitting Ground Work

Some horses do best with lots of ground work — leading, bitting, saddling, driving, longeing — taking everything one step at a time. Others are like precocious students in school who can skip a grade and do well; with these horses you can skip some of the ground work and still be ready for riding. A good trainer reaches the final goal by any number of routes, always using whatever methods are best for each youngster.

Even if you don’t plan to drive a horse in long lines to get him accustomed to stopping and turning, get him used to bit pressure before you start riding him. You can lead him with the bridle on (using a snaffle bit), keeping one hand on the reins behind his chin and one hand on the lead rope, signaling him to stop and to turn with the halter and the bit.

When turning, give a little pull on the appropriate rein (pulling him toward you to turn left, pulling him away from you to turn right). Put a little straight-back pressure on the bit as you tell him Whoa (he should understand what this means from earlier lessons). Some horses quickly learn to respond to the bit, but others will do better when they have some lessons with a bitting harness.

Using a Bitting Harness

Bitting lessons teach the horse to give to a bit instead of resisting it, playing with it, or pulling on it all the time. Always use a mild bit such as a snaffle. A bitting harness is a good way to acquaint the horse with the actions of the bit; it won’t hurt his mouth, yet it teaches him to give to the bit.

In a bitting harness with surcingle, the horse is pulling a little on the bit, stretching the side reins.

Creating a Bitting Harness with a Surcingle

A bitting harness consists of a headstall and snaffle bit, surcingle or belly-band, an overcheck to keep the horse from putting down his head too far, and sidechecks made from an elastic material such as strips of rubber or old inner tubes. The overcheck lines are fastened to a hook at the top of the surcingle, at the withers.

The stretchy sidechecks allow the horse to pull on the bit without hurting his mouth; he doesn’t run into a “solid” bit that bumps his mouth when he moves his head. Sidechecks should not be too loose or too tight. There should be no slack when his head is in proper position — that is, above level (wither height is level), nose slightly out, and relaxed. Elastic reins allow him to stretch them while pulling on the bit yet bring his head right back into place. Soon he learns to relax his jaw and neck, giving to the bit rather than rooting his nose forward.

After a few lessons, shorten the side reins somewhat to encourage the horse to bring down his nose a little more and keep his face more vertical. At first, however, you want the bitting harness to be as comfortable as possible so he will accept the bit and not fight against it.

Creating a Bitting Harness Using a Saddle

If you don’t have a bitting harness or surcingle, you can improvise using a saddle. A Western saddle works well because you can attach the overcheck lines to the saddle horn. Attach the sidechecks to the cinch rings or around the latigo or D-rings if the cinch rings are low.

Here the overcheck attaches to the saddle horn, and the side reins attach to the D-ring, where the latigo for the cinch attaches.

You can make an overcheck from light cotton rope or a curtain cord. The cords attach to the bit on each side at the top of the bit ring, running to the top of the headstall through the loop where a throatlatch would go. It then goes back to the saddle horn. The overcheck puts no pressure on the bit when the horse’s head is in normal position but keeps him from putting his head down too far.

How the Bitting Harness Works

The headstall and bit should fit properly, the bit in a comfortable position but sufficiently snug so the horse can’t get his tongue over it. If he has a halter under the headstall, for leading or longeing, it should be a close-fitting halter that doesn’t interfere with the fit of the headstall.

The overcheck and sidechecks keep the horse’s head in place, putting pressure on the bit when he tries to root his nose forward or put his head down. There is no pressure on his mouth when he carries his head in the proper position, but there is instant pressure when he roots or lugs or throws his head. The pressure is immediately released when he brings his head back where it should be.

The horse’s own actions teach him to respond to the bit. This is the first step in teaching him to flex at the poll and give to the bit. He learns to relax his jaw instead of bracing against the bit and discovers that the easiest position to carry his head is in the proper one, with head up — a little above level — and his face nearly vertical, with a slight arch in his neck.

Lessons in the Bitting Harness

It usually takes several sessions with the bitting harness for the horse to learn to give to the bit and relax while wearing it. Wearing the bitting harness for 15 to 30 minutes at a time once a day is enough. Let him wear it in a corral or round pen for a while so he can walk around and fully experience the feel of it.

Leading with the bitting harness. When he’s used to the bitting harness, usually after several sessions of wearing it in a pen, it’s time to lead or longe the horse with it on. Snap a lead rope to the halter and lead him around the pen or take him for walks out in the open. This lets him discover that he can travel with the bitting harness on, getting used to the bit as he goes. Refresh his memory by revisiting earlier leading lessons — traveling freely at walk and trot at your command, stopping, and turning. He can begin to make the transition from being controlled merely by the halter and your voice to doing all these things while wearing a bit.

LEADING WITH A BITTING HARNESS

When the horse strains against the bit and harness, he stretches the side rein.

By placing his head in the proper position, all pressure is released. The elastic side rein has pulled his head back into place.

Longeing with the bitting harness. If the young horse has already been taught to longe, it’s a simple step to longe him in the bitting harness. Attach the longe line to the halter or cavesson as usual. Then he can be walked, trotted, and cantered on the longe line. This prepares him for moving at various gaits with a bit in his mouth and lets him feel some pressure on the reins if he gets his head too far out of position or pulls too much on the bit.

If your horse has not been taught to longe, do not try to teach him this at the same time you are using the bitting harness. Work on one thing at a time so he can focus. If you want to longe him in a bitting harness, teach him to longe first (see pages 146–54).

Voice Commands

If you plan to drive your horse in long lines in preparation for riding or to pull a cart, he must develop instant response to voice commands. Always give a particular command the same way and in the same tone so he knows exactly what you mean. Commands should be crisp and distinct, except when trying to calm a nervous horse with the use of Easy said a more soothing, drawn-out tone. Your horse should learn instant obedience; you must stay in control. If he does not obey — he starts to move before you tell him to, for example; he refuses to halt exactly when you ask; or he misses a gait transition — get after him and insist that he does. If you wait a few seconds before correcting him, he will not respect you and will be sloppy in his responses in the future (see pages 52–53 for more on correcting).

Driving in Long Lines

The next step after the bitting harness is to drive him with long lines (long reins), teaching him to move out, stop, and turn. It is not absolutely necessary to drive a young horse before you ride him, but the more he knows before you get on him, the less confused he will be and the quicker he will learn what you want him to do. It’s usually easier for a horse to learn to drive if he has already been taught to longe.

Do not try to drive your horse out in the open at first; if he spooks or tries to run off, you will have a serious problem and will defeat the purpose of the lesson. A large corral or round pen works well for first lessons. A round pen is ideal, as it has no corners in which the horse can become “stuck.”

Snap driving lines (long reins used to drive a horse hitched to a cart) or, if you don’t have driving lines, two longe lines onto the snaffle bit and run them through the guides in the surcingle or through the stirrup bows if using a saddle. This will keep the lines at his sides and in the proper place, with less danger of their drooping to the ground. You want the lines low, so they won’t come up over his back, but not too low. If your stirrups are low, attach rings on your saddle pommel to run the lines through. You don’t want your horse to get a foot over a line or become entangled. Keep the lines fairly short.

ACQUAINT HIM WITH THE LINES

Before driving a young horse for the first time, get him used to the feel of the lines. Take a lead rope and loop it over his body, touching his hindquarters with it and brushing it against him. He will soon realize it’s nothing to fear. Then, when the driving lines rub against his sides and hindquarters or accidentally bump his tail and hocks, he won’t be jumpy.

When using a saddle, tie the stirrups so they won’t flop and spook the horse and won’t be pulled too far back along his sides. Tie them down to the cinch rings or together under his belly. Tie a rope or twine to the inside of one stirrup, run it under his belly and through the little ring on the bottom of the cinch, if it has one, then tie it to the inside of the opposite stirrup. The rope or twine should be tight enough to keep the stirrups from flopping but not so tight that it irritates the horse’s belly.

At first you may need someone to help you get started. Your assistant should lead the horse as you drive him. If the horse is not used to having someone following him, he may try to turn and face you instead of moving out. If someone leads him for the first part of the first lesson, he will quickly learn that he must move forward instead of trying to turn around. Once he understands what you want, he will move out freely without the helper. Walk about a horse length behind the horse, with a line in each hand and the whip in your right hand.

Start your horse with a voice command or touch of the whip, and allow him to move in any direction he wants for the first few minutes so he can get accustomed to your following him. Some trainers use a gentle slap of the lines against his sides, but it’s best not to do this; it jerks on the mouth, which to the horse should mean Whoa. Remember, you never want to confuse him. Instead of slapping the lines, touch him with the whip on his side, where your leg would be if you were riding. If your whip is not long enough to do that, tap him lightly on the rump.

To stop him, tell him Whoa and use a slight seesaw pull on the lines which can be accomplished by merely “squeezing”— moving your fingers closer to the palm of your hand, to put just a little more pressure on that rein. Squeeze alternately with each hand, applying a little pressure on one rein at a time. Release all pressure the instant he responds. If he has learned Whoa from leading lessons, this will make it easier.

SAFETY TIP

Wear gloves when driving to protect your hands if your horse becomes frightened and tries to pull away.

Whoa should always mean “Stop and stay stopped until otherwise directed.” Give the lines slack when the horse stops, and let him stand a while each time you stop him, so he remembers this. The signal to stop means to stop completely — whether the horse is being led, longed, or driven. Walk him forward again, and repeat the lesson until he learns to stop at your verbal command with very little pressure on the lines.

When you want him to start moving, take up the slack in the lines and speak to him. Give him the command to walk or to move out, or cluck; use the command he is accustomed to. If he doesn’t move, touch him lightly with the whip. Always keep your command words simple and consistent. One- and two-syllable commands such as Walk, Get up, and Let’s go work best. If you plan to hitch your horse to a cart later, you may want to teach him the commands for turning left (Haw) and right (Gee).

END ON A POSITIVE NOTE

When driving with long lines, work only at the walk, so the horse will stay calm. You don’t want him to become upset and out of control. He thinks about things more clearly if he maintains a calm, quiet walk. Keep first lessons brief; 20 to 30 minutes is plenty — or even shorter if he has a briefer attention span. If you work with him too long and he becomes bored and frustrated, no longer responding properly or showing signs of resentment or resistance, you will lose ground in the training. Always end the lesson on a positive note, while your horse is still trying to do things correctly.

This horse is driving with long lines run through the stirrup bows to keep them at the proper height.

If you don’t have a surcingle for driving and your stirrup bows are too low to run the lines through, attach rings to the saddle pommel to run the lines through so you won’t be pulling the horse’s head down too low.

From Longeing to Driving

Sometimes the easiest way to start ground-driving a horse who knows how to longe is to make a transition from longeing to driving as he goes in circles in the round pen. Get him used to longeing with a bridle and saddle on (a Western saddle works well for this step), with the stirrups tied beneath his belly so they won’t flop. Then substitute driving lines for the longe line.

Driving in Circles: The Transition

Longe your horse first, using one line snapped to his halter, then halt him and snap the line onto the bit (to the near side if you are on the horse’s left). Snap the other line to the bit ring on the far side (the off side, in this instance), and run it through that stirrup bow and up over his back, behind the cantle. The line will be held in place by the saddle cantle.

Now you can encourage him to move around you in a circle as if he were longeing, but you will walk a short way behind him. As you follow him, a little to the inside, as he is accustomed to your being at the inside of the circle, maintain just enough pressure on the inside line to keep him in a circle.

When your horse has relaxed and is walking in a circle around you, with you following a little way behind him, flick the outside line gently so he knows it’s there. When he accepts that line, gently slide it off the saddle and onto his hindquarters. Keep sufficient tension on the line to keep it from drooping down to his hocks.

If your horse is nervous about the line touching his hindquarters and speeds up, just go with him and talk to him, giving him the command to walk and controlling his speed with the inside line as if you were longeing. Reduce the size of the circle until he calms down to a walk again. Stop him, reposition the line behind the saddle cantle, and start over.

When driving in circles, let the right line slip down over the rump. The left line is still snapped to the halter, so if the horse must be pulled on to stop, it won’t hurt his mouth.

After he travels calmly with the outside line in place around his hindquarters, halt the horse and run the second line — the inside line — through the stirrup bow. Now you will be actually driving him rather than longeing. Start him again, and walk parallel with him but a little behind him, gradually letting out more line so that eventually you are walking directly behind him, dropping farther and farther behind, with even pressure on both lines.

Turning

To turn, pull gently on one line and give a little with the other; this way, the horse can turn his head to follow the direction of the turn. If he gets confused and stops instead of turning, encourage him to keep moving with voice commands or a slight touch with the longeing whip, if necessary. Use the bit gently; rough handling will produce a hard mouth or cause the horse to bend too much.

Drive him in a circle in both directions. Get him used to starting with you standing to his right, to his left, and behind him. Until he learns to turn in response to a gentle pull on one rein or the other — in the direction you want him to go — use the fence as an aid. When he gets to the fence and realizes that he can’t continue to go straight ahead, he’ll turn more easily.

At first, just let him go the way he decides to turn, encouraging the turn with a slight pull on that rein with equal give on the other. He’ll soon get the idea that a pull on the rein means a turn, because the rein pulls his head around. As he learns to respond to the rein pressure, you can turn him any way you want.

After your horse drives well in a corral, is under control, and understands your signals, you can drive him at a trot as well as at a walk and out in the open as well as in a corral. This isn’t necessary, however, unless you plan to take him further with driving training — to pull a cart, for example. The purpose of teaching a horse to drive, as a preliminary lesson for riding, is to get him used to giving to the bit and learning to stop and turn with rein pressure. All of these can be done at the walk.

When he gets to this stage in his training, the horse is ready to be ridden if he is physically mature enough (two and a half to three years old, depending on the horse). Now, he just has to make the transition to rein signals when you are on his back. He knows a pull on a rein means “Stop” and that a pull to the side means “Turn in that direction.” He knows the basics of moving out, turning, and stopping on command. If you carefully laid the groundwork for his first riding lesson, that next transition should be accomplished fairly easily.

Bit Resistance

Many horses will play with the bit and try to spit it out the first few times they are exposed to it, but if it fits well and is comfortable, most horses will soon get used to it. Once they start doing things that keep their interest, such as longeing, driving, and being led or ponied wearing a bridle, they stop fussing altogether. Some horses, however, have a hard time getting used to the bit and continue trying to spit it out or put their tongue over it. Even if the bit fits well, they are not content to leave it alone.

Check the Mouth

When a horse resists the bit, the first step is to have your veterinarian check his mouth to make sure no physical problem causes discomfort. An old tongue injury, sensitive wolf teeth, and an abnormally shaped jaw are just a few of the reasons a bit could bother your horse, and the veterinarian can detect the problem and make some suggestions to resolve or work around the problem. If the mouth and teeth are normal, however, you may try a number of approaches to help the horse accept the bit.

Make His Mouth Happy

It’s easier to deal with the bit resistance of a young horse just learning about bits than it is that of an older one for whom resistance is already a habit, but some of the “remedies” that follow can be helpful in either case.

Use a bar snaffle with a very thick, comfortable mouthpiece (see page 177). It’s not as easy for the horse to get his tongue over a straight mouthpiece.

Put honey, jam, or molasses on the bit each time you bridle him.

Rub the bars of his mouth with your fingers before you put on the bridle, to help him become accustomed to pressure.

Adjust the headstall so the bit is very snug (that is, so there is no room for your horse to put his tongue over it), and let him wear just the headstall and bit in his stall or in a round pen for an hour or 2 each day until he accepts the bit. Use a headstall with a browband and a throatlatch so he can’t rub it off. Make sure there’s nothing in the stall or pen he could catch the bridle on.

Another way to make your horse more at ease with a bit is to use a bitting snaffle, or a mouthing bit. This is a straight-bar snaffle with little “keys” that hang from the middle of it. These small metal pieces lie on the horse’s tongue and he plays with them rather than trying to put his tongue over the bit. He will chew on the bit, which relaxes his jaw and produces more saliva in the mouth, thus making the bit more comfortable. Many of the old-time trainers used this type of bit to get a young horse ready for driving training. Most horses soon learn to accept it.

The horse uses his tongue to play with the “keys” on this example of a bitting snaffle.

Training the Driving Horse and Pony

You may want to continue the horse’s driving training if he is to work in harness and pull a cart or buggy. You can even give driving and riding lessons at the same time: teach driving in the morning and under-saddle lessons in the afternoon, for example. You can teach the young horse to pull a cart now and start riding him next year, when he is older and stronger. Or you may decide to teach an older horse to drive. This can be fun and rewarding, especially if you want to take along passengers or enter your horse in driving competitions.

If you don’t know anything about driving, take time to learn about the sport before you buy equipment. Find out from experts what you will need and what your choices are. Don’t buy equipment that does not fit your horse or is not in good condition. Remember, as always, safety must be your first consideration.

SAFETY TIP

Every decision you make about obtaining a harness and cart should be governed by safety. A driving horse depends on his driver for reassurance as well as control; if something happens — the harness breaks or the cart overturns — and you come out of the cart, the horse will probably bolt, with the vehicle banging along behind him. You don’t ever want this to happen. Make safety your highest priority.

Can My Horse or Pony Pull a Cart?

You can teach almost any horse or pony to drive and pull a cart, but some are better candidates than others for this type of training. Evaluate your horse’s mental and emotional characteristics to determine whether he is a good prospect. The nervous or flighty individual poses a bigger challenge and makes many situations more risky than does a calm, easygoing horse.

Temperament Is Important

When riding, you have a lot of control over a nervous horse’s actions: You can use your hands, legs, seat, and balance as aids, as well as your voice. If he jumps sideways, your leg pressure can control the jump and get him back into position. When driving a horse, however, you have only your hands with the reins, your voice, and the whip, which can be a poor substitute for leg pressure in some situations. You can’t just turn the horse around or back him to return him to the trail if he shies. The spooky horse who shies at every strange thing is a poor choice for a driving animal. When choosing a driving prospect, evaluate his mental and emotional attributes as well as his physical abilities.

Age

A horse can be taught to drive before he can be ridden. At two years old, a horse is too young for strenuous work under saddle, but he’s capable of pulling a light vehicle without much stress on his back or legs. Driving lessons are often easier to teach to the young horse than to the already-ridden horse. The horse who is accustomed to a rider must make adjustments. He has to get used to restricted movement between the shafts and reduced vision wearing a closed bridle and blinkers. He must learn to cross his legs when turning, keeping his body straight, and to obey voice cues as well as rein cues.

Size

Consider the horse’s size and what you expect him to pull. A small pony can handle two medium-size adults in a light cart on smooth roads with no steep grades. If you want to take your cart across country or to carry more passengers or to use a larger vehicle, you need a larger animal or two .

Harness

To drive your horse, you’ll need a harness, which includes a driving bridle and bit. There are several types of snaffles appropriate for starting the driving horse, among them a rubber snaffle, a loose-ring snaffle, and a half-cheek snaffle (a snaffle with cheeks prevents the bit from being pulled sideways through the mouth). Choose a bit with a thick, mild mouthpiece.

It’s often better to buy a harness custom made to fit your horse rather than try to make do with a borrowed one. In addition to fitting properly, a new harness is less likely than a used one to fail in an emergency. Most driving accidents are caused by a poorly fitting or broken harness; it’s not always wise to save money by buying used tack.

Selecting a Harness for Training

There are two types of harness: those with a simple breastplate and those using a collar. For pleasure driving — that is, pulling a light vehicle carrying only one or two people — a simple breastplate is fine, and easier to put on and take off the horse. Collars, which are worn by large draft horses, are more suitable for pulling heavy loads because they distribute pressure more evenly over a greater area. A collar can be difficult to fit correctly if you don’t have experience fitting it.

You can purchase a good leather pleasure-driving harness through mail-order suppliers (you must know what size you need, of course). Have an experienced person help you measure your horse and also advise you on harness quality. The cost ranges from $400 to $1,000. Avoid cheap mail-order harnesses; quality construction and proper fit are crucial for your horse’s safety and comfort. By the time you replace pieces that don’t fit, your “bargain” will turn out to be quite expensive. A better option, perhaps, is to buy through a harness shop. An important advantage is that if you are inexperienced, someone at the shop can measure your horse (or tell you how to do it) and suggest the best type of harness for your purposes.

Two harness colors are available — black (dyed) and russet (natural). Russet is generally more expensive because it requires a better grade of leather with no blemishes. Imperfections can be covered up if the harness is dyed black. Whatever the harness color, however, reins are usually russet, so you won’t get leather dye on your clothing.

SAFETY TIP

Don’t buy a cheap used harness at an auction. If it’s been hanging in a barn for years or stuffed in a box, the leather is probably dried, cracked, and weak. When leather is bent, it should not show any tiny cracks; if it does, its strength is compromised, and it could break under sudden strain.

Nylon harnesses generally cost less (ranging from $200 to $500) than those made from leather and require less maintenance. The material is strong and durable but doesn’t have as much give as leather and usually becomes worn-looking after a few years. Nylon harnesses are often less adjustable, too. Nylon is not always the best choice for a beginning driver or a young horse in training because it will not break as readily as leather if the harness gets caught on something.

Acquainting the Horse with the Harness

Before you hitch up to anything, get the horse accustomed to the harness so he’ll be comfortable with it before you add the novelty of a vehicle. There are many parts to the harness; the best way to prevent problems is to get him used to it a portion at a time. Don’t try to put on all of it the first time, especially if the horse is green. Step-by-step acclimation will build his confidence.

Putting on the harness. Have a helper hold him as you acquaint the horse with the harness; this method is better than tying him in case he becomes nervous. Let the horse see and sniff each part of the harness before you actually put it on him.

The first piece of harness you put on the horse is the surcingle, or belly band, if he has not already experienced it as part of a bitting harness. Then add the crupper, which goes back from the surcingle and loops around the base of the tail to keep the harness from sliding forward. Most horses don’t mind the surcingle, but many are wary of the crupper; it takes several sessions for a horse to get used to this. If your horse is accustomed to being in a stall, add the crupper to the surcingle in his stall, and let him wear it in there for an hour at a time, for as many days as it takes him to become comfortable with it. Remove any obstacles the harness might catch on.

COMFORT TIP

The crupper dock, which goes under the tail, should be made of very soft, well-conditioned leather, pliable rather than stiff and hard, and the loop should be large enough to be comfortable under the horse’s tail. To prevent chafing and discomfort, it’s a good idea to sew sheepskin onto the surface that will rest next to his tail.

Harness with breastplate

Harness with collar

Parts of a driving bridle (closed bridle) and harness

If your horse has never lived in a stall, turn him loose in a round pen for an hour at a time, so he’ll get to know how the crupper feels when he moves around.

Enlist the aid of an experienced person to hold him for you as you put on the crupper, in case the horse is nervous or resists. Be prepared if he explodes when you turn him loose to wear it. When turning him loose in a stall, be close to the door and ready to exit; don’t turn your back on the horse. After a few daily sessions, he will realize the crupper is not going to hurt him, but at first he may clamp or wring his tail, kick, run, or buck. Don’t put any more of the harness on him until he accepts the crupper.

Bridle with Blinkers

Next, take a few sessions to introduce the horse to a driving bridle and bit. A horse who has already been bridled may need only one lesson to get used to the new bridle with blinkers (also called blinders, which are cups behind the eye to keep the horse looking forward so he won’t be startled by movement behind him). If this is his first bridling experience, however, see chapter 6 for helpful lessons. After he is used to the driving bridle, put it on, along with the partial harness (surcingle and crupper), and let him wear it in the stall or lead him with it.

Some horses are nervous when introduced to the driving bridle with blinkers. Take as many sessions as needed to get him used to it. If he has been taught to pony (see page 155), you can lead him from another horse while he’s getting used to blinkers, surcingle, and crupper; he can rely on the security of the other horse while getting used to the feel of everything and adjusting to restricted vision.

Note: Blinkers are not essential for driving, but they help focus the horse’s attention on what he is doing; he is unable to look back at the cart following him, for example. Most horses are less spooky about the cart if they wear blinkers, but a few do better without them. If your horse can’t get used to them, don’t use them.

While training, leave the halter on under the bridle, so a helper can lead the horse. The halter should be close fitting. All parts of the bridle should fit well and be taut so there is never any danger of having a shaft slip under the halter or bridle.

When the horse is comfortable with the driving bridle, add the rest of the harness. Practice putting it on and taking it off while someone holds the horse. You won’t be turning him loose with the full harness on, but he must get used to the feel of it. The breeching drapes over his hindquarters, and he will definitely need some time to become accustomed to that.

Longeing in Harness

After the horse is at ease with the bridle and partial harness (surcingle, back pad [top portion of the surcingle], and crupper), longe him with them on (he must first be well trained to longe with voice commands; see page 152). Run the connecting end of the longe line through the inside bit ring and up over the poll, and snap it to the outside bit ring. This way, when there is a pull on the line, it will pull upward on the outside of the bit and not just pull on the inside bit ring. This keeps the bit from being pulled through his mouth.

SAFETY TIP

It’s wise to put splint boots on all four legs when longeing or driving. These boots, which cover the inside of the lower legs, will protect them from injury if the horse happens to strike a cannon bone with the opposite leg. Leave him unshod during early training to minimize the risk of injury if he hits himself. Once he is trained, your horse will be more coordinated and agile and less likely to strike himself.

Longe the horse at the walk and trot, reinforcing his response to voice cues until he responds instantly. You will not be cantering him in harness, so he won’t need a cue for that. After he responds well, add the rest of the harness — the breeching and breastplate — and longe him until he is comfortable with it.

Long-Lining, or Driving in Harness

Next, introduce the horse to the feel of reins putting pressure on the bit and to the lines touching his hocks and hindquarters as he moves. Attach a line to each bit ring and run the lines through the keepers of the surcingle or through the leather loops (for the shafts) on the back pad. You can longe the horse this way or you can just follow him. Either way, it helps to enlist an assistant for first lessons. Have your helper lead the horse (if you are following, so the horse will get used to your being behind him) and keep control until the horse understands what to do.

If you are long-lining the horse in a circle with you in the center, he may get a little spooky when he feels the one line around his hindquarters; it helps to have someone at his head to help control him. Work at a walk until the horse is calm and relaxed. He must get used to the feel of the rein against his hindquarters so he won’t kick at the trace or breeching when hooked to a cart. If he resents it, start by leaving this rein up over his back. Accustom him to the feel of the bit on his mouth, and ask him to stop and turn; a helper comes in handy when you are first teaching your horse to turn. Don’t keep him circling too long in one direction; change him often from one side to the other until he turns equally well both ways.

Drive with long lines, out in the open, to accustom the horse to the partial harness and closed bridle with blinkers.

When a horse wears blinkers, he cannot see you behind him and must rely on your voice. Early training develops confidence and obedience in the horse and can make this transition easier. During first lessons in harness, walking behind him, do not use a whip if he’s nervous. If he feels or hears a whip coming from an unknown direction, he’ll probably become more anxious, and this will undo weeks of training. Let him have the reassurance of your voice; keep talking to him so he knows you’re there. Take care to prevent him from running into anything he might not be able to see. If you’ve ground-driven him sufficiently before adding harness and blinkers, it won’t take long for him to adjust.

“Spook-Proof” Your Driving Horse

After you are able to walk behind your horse without a helper and can stop and turn him, drive him at a walk and trot to expand his experiences. Take him out of the pen to new places, to new sights, and up and down hills.

To become a dependable driving horse, he must learn to cope with potentially frightening situations. Ground-drive him up and down your lane, halt him at the main road, and let him watch cars go by. Once he is comfortable, take a helper along and ground-drive the horse on a quiet road before you try him with a cart. With time and experience, he’ll become used to barking dogs, mailboxes, children playing, horses running along a pasture fence by the road, and the occasional vehicle.

Ask him to walk quietly past any spooky obstacle. A shying horse is more difficult to control in harness than under saddle, so spend time getting him accustomed to many things, including traffic. He should learn to trust your voice commands implicitly. He must be reliable and safe under all conditions. Having an assistant walk along when you are out on the road — to go to the horse’s head to hold him, for example, or to lead him — can be a big help. The assistant should carry a short lead strap that can be quickly snapped on to the horse if necessary. Thus, it’s always important to have a close-fitting halter under the bridle.

USING A WHIP

Your horse should already be used to a whip. He must respect but not fear it and should be accustomed to having it touch various parts of his body. A buggy whip will reinforce voice commands as you touch him on the sides or shoulder if he doesn’t respond instantly. The whip is a major means of communication. Because you will always carry it while driving, make sure it is lightweight and comfortably balanced.

Selecting a Cart for You and Your Horse

There are many types of carts and carriages, both two wheeled and four wheeled. You may eventually get more than one type of vehicle. At first, however, you’ll want one that is safe and easy for training the horse. Select a cart that is well made and that fits your horse as well as your budget.

Choosing the Training Cart

For training it’s better to start with a two-wheeled cart. A four-wheeled vehicle is more comfortable to ride in but can tip over more easily on tight turns and may jackknife if the horse backs up crookedly. A two-wheeled cart is more stable and will go wherever the horse goes.

If you want one all-around cart that will work for training as well as being a good, safe pleasure vehicle, most drivers recommend a Meadowbrook cart. This cart is solid and durable — it’s made of oak — yet fairly light and portable because it has only two wheels. This type of cart is built by craftsmen all over the country and is commonly available. The Meadowbrook is a good training cart because it has a low center of gravity, which makes it more stable over rough terrain.

A cross-country cart — the type used in the endurance portions of combined driving events — is also a good, sturdy everyday vehicle. A new Meadowbrook or cross-country cart costs about $2,000, but you may be able to find a good used one for much less. If you do buy a used cart, make sure it is in good condition and safe. If you have no experience, ask a knowledgeable person to help you evaluate it. If you want a four-wheeled vehicle, find one whose body is cut under, so the wheels fit under the body when making a tight turn. Many of the older vehicles — the antiques — are rectangular boxes on springs and not very practical, especially for traveling across country.

HITCHING TIP

Before you hitch up, make sure your horse has already felt a rein caught under his tail. This way, it won’t be a totally new and frightening experience for him if it should occur, and you’ll know how he’ll react.

The Meadowbrook is a good, safe, all-around pleasure vehicle.

Check for Soundness and Safety

Be sure the vehicle you get is solid and serviceable. Check the wood for dry rot, even if it’s new. Make sure the shafts are not cracked, that the wheels match, that the hubs aren’t cracked, and that the wood spokes are solid and firmly attached. Don’t purchase a cart with wire spokes; these can’t handle rough terrain. Also avoid air-filled rubber tires; a puncture, which will create a bang or a hissing sound, could badly spook your horse.

Most cart and carriage wheels have solid rubber tires, but some are metal bands. These may be fine on a dirt road, but they’ll make a lot of noise on pavement and asphalt. If the cart has metal wheels, have them fitted with rubber by a wheelwright. If the cart does not already have brakes — and many two-wheeled carts don’t — you can have these added.

The Cart Must Fit the Horse and Driver

The comfort and safety of both you and the horse depend on the fit of the vehicle to the horse. This is especially important in a two-wheeled cart because shafts are attached to the vehicle, putting it at the same angle as the shafts. A horse too tall or too short for the cart will tilt it up or down. The seat should be level when the horse is hitched to the cart, which means the shafts are level (horizontal) also. They should be positioned as close as possible to the points of the horse’s shoulder.

You can use larger or smaller wheels to make the cart higher or lower, but a change of 4 inches in wheel diameter will change the height by only 2 inches. Some carts can be made higher by blocking up the springs, but this raises the center of gravity. It’s best to measure your horse before you look for a cart. You can’t adapt a cart made for a 12-hand pony to fit a 15-hand horse.

The cart should also fit you. If your feet don’t touch the floorboards, there will be nothing to brace against, although a toe rail can be added. The other extreme is to have no legroom. Be sure the cart will fit the driver as well as the horse.

Pulling Preparation

Introduce the horse to pulling before you hitch him to a vehicle. One way to do this is to put traces through the tugs and breeching, then fasten an 8-foot length of rope, with a loop on the end, to each trace. The loops can be hooked to a singletree (the crossbar behind the horse when pulling a cart), which a helper can hold while following the horse. The traces should be slack at first. Longe the horse, asking him to walk around you in a circle as your helper follows the horse.

When the horse is freely going forward, the helper should begin to pull back slightly on the singletree — gently at first, as the horse gets used to pressure on the breastplate. As the horse learns to lean into the breastplate, more weight can be put on the traces. Then you can take the horse for walks, driven with long lines, with the helper pulling on the singletree.

Hitching Up

Before you hitch up, accustom the horse to the cart so he won’t be frightened by the sight or sound of it. An easy way to accomplish this, after he’s been led up to the cart a few times and allowed to check it out, is to have a helper pull the cart in front of the horse as you ground-drive him. This is less scary the first time the horse hears it moving than if it’s behind him, squeaking and rattling. When the horse no longer worries about it, have your helper pull the cart along behind him. Don’t hitch up your horse to a vehicle until he is at ease with how it sounds. If the cart has a singletree instead of shafts, get him used to feeling something between and on his legs before you hitch up.

SAFETY TIP

Before hitching up, make sure the cart is safe — no loose bolts, for example, and no bad rubber on wheels. If it has brakes, check that they work evenly. Keep the harness in good repair, and clean it frequently so you can check for weak spots and loose stitching.

When hitching up the first time, station a helper in front of the horse. Even better, have two helpers — one on each side of the horse. If only one person is holding the horse from the side, the horse may try to move sideways or spin to the side, risking hitting someone with the shaft.

Hitch in a Safe Place

Have the horse in a pen or enclosed area so he can’t go far if he pulls away. While hitching, enlist your helper to hold him, then bring the cart up behind the horse, with shafts raised high so there’s no danger of poking him. Stand beside the shafts, not between them, and slowly bring them down to gently touch the horse’s rump. Don’t try to hitch him the first time unless he is utterly relaxed. It may take several sessions of putting the cart behind him before he is ready. The person at his head should talk to him, distract him, and help keep the horse calm.

While you are hitching, let the horse face any activity that might be going on around the barnyard. This way, he can see it clearly and won’t be trying to turn and face it to see it better. Create a regular routine for hitching so he will be comfortable with it. If you always put on the harness the same way and bring the cart up to him the same way, this helps the horse know what to expect and what is expected of him. He finds comfort in routine and won’t be alarmed by something new. Be consistent, and require that your horse be consistent, too. He will learn that when he is being hitched, his job is to stand still and stand squarely, even if he gets bumped or the harness moves around.

Facing a Wall or Fence

The horse who might be skittish should be hitched by a barn wall or solid fence. Put the cart 9 feet from the fence or wall. Then bring the horse, wearing his harness, with a longe rein snapped to each side of the bit. Let him sniff the cart until he is relaxed, then lead him in front of it to where he is facing the wall or fence. If he won’t stand still and keeps trying to go forward, the wall or fence will keep him from moving forward while you are trying to hitch the cart. Hold him on his left side with your left hand, keeping your right hand free to guide the shaft through the left tug while your helper holds the horse on the other side, brings the cart up to him, and puts the shaft through the right tug.

The traces can be quickly and temporarily tied on with string, using a quick-release knot, while you hold the horse still; then the surcingle is buckled. Hitch up quickly and quietly, with every move planned in advance so the horse won’t be frightened by a careless action.

Having the horse face a fence or wall helps keep him from moving during the hitch-up but makes it more difficult to move off because he must start by turning. To help the horse make the turn, pull the left shaft toward you with your right hand. Simultaneously, give him the verbal command to walk while pulling him to you as a helper pushes the right shaft. Thus, your horse will be taken in a circle to the left to get away from the fence or wall so he can travel.

Make the first lesson short, and stop him facing the fence or wall again, where you can carefully unhitch him. Hold the horse, and reassure him while your helper unhitches the cart and pulls it away.

Unhitching

The procedure for unhitching is the reverse of hitching up. First undo the surcingle, then unbuckle the breeching straps, and finally unhook the traces. Before the cart is pushed back from the horse, make sure the ends of the reins are placed where they will not catch on anything, or he may get a jerk on his mouth.

It is better to push the cart back from the horse rather than lead him out of the shafts; he should learn always to stand still. If he is led forward, he may come to anticipate this and get into the bad habit of coming forward too soon. This increases the risk of having a shaft fall from the tugs, break, and terrify the horse. Never remove the horse’s bridle while he is still hitched to the cart.

Pulling a Cart: First Lessons

The first day you actually hitch up the horse, you won’t do much driving. To be safe, don’t even get into the cart. Stand by the cart with the lines in your hands, and ask the horse to walk. Have a helper at his head to hold a lead rope. If the horse manages to walk a few calm steps, that’s a good place to stop. If the horse is nervous, don’t even ask him to walk. Let him merely stand there hitched to the cart.

Take several days, if needed, to work up to 30 or 40 steps pulling the cart. For first lessons, have your helper at his head to bring the horse under control if he panics. The cart will be noisy, and the horse may become alarmed. Take your time. Even if things are going well, don’t be tempted to rush the training. Build gradually on each success.

Driving Him from the Cart

After a few sessions of ground-driving him while walking beside the cart (with your helper on the opposite side of the horse), your horse may be ready for you to get into the cart. The helper should unsnap his lead rope from the right side, move to the left side, and snap the lead to the halter while you walk beside the cart. When the horse is calm, get into the cart while it’s moving. This is easier on the horse than having to start pulling the cart from a standstill. The unaccustomed extra weight may cause him to lurch or resist rather than ease into the breastplate.

After you and the horse have enough confidence that you can easily step into the cart while your helper is leading the horse, start practicing gradual turns and gait transitions — that is, from walk to trot, trot to walk, and walk to halt. If the cart has traces and a singletree rather than shafts, ask your helper to hold the lead rope the first time you make turns; the traces will bump the horse’s hocks, and he may try to get away from this strange sensation.

Soon your horse will be dependable enough to have both you and your helper in the cart. It’s a good idea to take along a helper for a while: if you get into a tricky situation, the assistant can jump out and go to the horse’s head. If all goes well, the horse will learn to depend on your voice commands and trust your signals, and in time you won’t need the “insurance” of a helper.

Holding the Reins

Hold your reins properly, and keep even rein pressure. Uneven pressure on the bit will give the horse the bad habit of rubbernecking, or turning his head to one side. Always have the reins even — with equal bit contact on both sides — before you ask the horse to start off. This way, he can move off straight and with the proper bit and harness engagement.

When getting in a cart, hold both reins in your right hand, with the left rein under your index finger and the right rein under your middle finger. This leaves your thumb and index finger free to hold on to the cart as you enter. The off-side (right) rein should be 3 inches longer than the near-side (left) rein, so if the horse steps forward while you are getting in the cart, a feel of the reins will keep him straight.

Get in quickly and quietly, then transfer the reins to your left hand. Hold the left rein over your index finger and the right rein under the middle finger so that two fingers are separating the reins. This lets you apply pressure to either rein by rounding your wrist up or down. There’s more leeway for play of the wrist on the horse’s mouth this way than you’d have with only one finger separating the reins.

The proper way to hold the reins and whip while driving. The near-side rein lies over the index finger, and the off-side rein goes under the middle finger.

Your thumb should point to the right, not upward, and should not press on the rein. The forefinger points outward and slightly to the rear. This keeps the near rein close to the knuckle; the horse can be easily moved across the road or to the left or right just by turning the back of your hand up or down. The middle, third, and little fingers press on the reins as they come through your hand, gripping them against your palm to keep them from slipping.

Keep your wrist well rounded and flexible, and hold it about 3 inches in front of the center of your body, with your arm horizontal across your body. A flexible wrist enables you to keep a steady touch on the horse’s mouth without jerking. If your wrist is stiff and unyielding, the horse will pull against you.

Always keep the reins in your left hand so you can use the whip with your right hand without affecting the rein action. Never use the whip while the right hand is holding a rein. If you were to do this, it would put slack in that rein, and the horse would immediately travel to the left.

Position in the Cart

Hold your elbows close to your sides. Your knees and ankles should be together and your feet planted firmly on the floor or footrest. It is not safe to drive without adequate leverage for your feet: if the horse starts to pull at the bit or suddenly stumbles, you could be pulled from your position unless you can brace your feet.

Using the Whip

Always use a whip when driving, and keep it in your hand, not in the whip socket of the cart. A whip takes the place of a rider’s legs for giving signals, keeping the horse on the bit, and correcting him if needed. Apply the whip gently to his shoulders or sides. Do not use it on the hindquarters, as this might make him kick.

Overcoming Challenges

Tackle new things gradually. Work to develop good responses and good habits for the horse while being careful not to create any bad habits. If the horse balks at going through a puddle, for example, have your helper lead him through it. Avoid fighting with or forcing the horse. If he has a bad experience with the puddle, he will associate all puddles with conflict and then always try to avoid them.

Don’t insist on immediately repeating a hard task or confronting a scary obstacle again. Your horse may become tense and resentful and will develop negative associations. It’s better to wait and repeat the difficult lesson the next day. It usually becomes easier for him to deal with if there wasn’t a big to-do the first time.

Driving in Company

Once your horse is comfortable with the cart, take him out in company at every opportunity to introduce him to the sight and sounds of another horse and cart. The sound of another cart going next to him — which he can’t see because of the blinkers — can be quite frightening to a horse. At first drive him behind the other rig so he can see it, then in front, and finally alongside it.

Turning the Horse

To make a left turn, round your wrist so that the back of your hand leans toward your body, with the thumb down. This puts pressure on the left rein and releases the right rein enough to turn a light-mouthed horse, one that is very responsive to a slight signal with the bit. To make a right turn, turn your wrist so the little finger is upward toward your body. This puts slack in the left rein and increases the pull on the right rein. A common mistake is to swing the hands to the left or right in the direction of the turn — your hands should not move from their position in the center of your body.

A novice driver’s usual reaction when turning clockwise is to grab the left (outside) rein to try to keep the horse turning smoothly instead of cutting the corner too much. This often results in poor corners; the horse will lean to the side of the bit that is held tighter and go into the turn with his head tipped to the outside instead of bending with the turn. With his head tipped to the outside, his shoulder is thrown to the inside, and he makes a stiff corner. This can become a bad habit for the horse if you do it to him very often. Practice on the straightaway to keep even rein pressure, and have the horse working well on the bit, not avoiding it or resisting it.

Proper hand position for a left turn (A) and a right turn (B)

PAY ATTENTION TO BODY LANGUAGE

Always pay attention to the horse, and stay attuned to his mood. If things start to go wrong, you have just one or two strides — a second or two — to react and correct or reassure him. By observing his ears, head carriage, muscle tone (is he tense?), and body position, you can predict how he’ll react to something and be better prepared to deal with it. Heed his tail position and the bend of his body. A second before he shies, for instance, a horse usually gives a clue as to which way he’ll jump. If you know your horse, you will know whether to use a half-halt (a quick give-and-take on the reins), to pull on the left rein or the right, or to touch the horse with the whip.

If you are always reading the horse, you can prevent a lot of problems. By observing the horse, you will also know if part of the harness is bothering him and can determine which part just by the way he holds his body.

TURNING TIPS

If the horse is not sensitive to the rein, you may need your right hand to assist on a turn. Both reins should remain in your left hand, but for a right turn, place your right hand a little in front of the left and over the right rein, to put more pressure on that rein. For a left turn, your right hand assists in a similar manner, over the left rein.

Just before you reach a turn, give a tiny half-halt (a quick give-and-take on the reins) with the bit to alert the horse that you’re about to ask for something new. If you are making a turn to the right, keep the left rein steady while you very gently give and take with the right rein. This will help the horse make the turn with the proper bend to his body.

Going Up and Down Hills

When going uphill or downhill, keep in mind the way the horse pulls a cart, and remember how to help him. When he is pulling uphill, he has his weight leaned into the collar or breastplate. Just before he gets to the top, in the last few strides, ask him to shorten his stride by checking briefly with the bit (half-halt). This does not mean slow down. Shortening his stride allows the momentum of the cart to catch up with him on top of the hill, so the breeching can contact his hindquarters before the cart starts down the hill on the other side.

As the horse heads over the hill, again check him briefly with the bit (another half-halt or two, depending on the situation) to ask him to shift his weight more to his hindquarters. This will enable him to hold back the cart a little better on the down slope. If you wait too long to help him make the transition from pulling to holding back, he may start down the hill with too much of his weight on his front legs. The cart coming behind him thus could push him down the hill.

You must give the horse his cues while he is at the top of the hill, just as he is starting down, before the cart starts down. Otherwise, your cues are too late. He will not be in the proper position to slow the cart, and the cart pushing into him may give him a very bad experience.

SAFETY RULES FOR DRIVING

Always wear protective headgear and require your passengers to do so also.

Wear gloves while driving.

When driving alone, tell someone where you are going and when you plan to return.

Shoe the horse appropriately for the conditions, especially when traveling on paved roads.

Place a “slow-moving vehicle” sign (an orange triangle) on the back of the cart.

Always carry a tool kit for any emergency cart or harness repairs. Your repair kit should include rein and trace splices, a wheel wrench, a hammer, a hoof pick, a hole punch, a halter, and a lead rope.

Carry a flashlight if you might be out after dark, and use reflective tape on harness and cart.

Never allow anyone in the cart if the driver is not in it.

Never leave a horse hitched without supervision, and never allow an inexperienced person or a child to watch your horse if you are not present.

Don’t take the horse for a drive with other drivers if he has not been out in the company of other horses before. Give him lessons first.

Never ask a horse to do anything while hitched that he did not learn in his ground work.

Never come up behind a harnessed horse without speaking to him; always let him know you are there.

Gradual Conditioning

Just as in training a horse under saddle, a driving horse needs to be brought along slowly; again, you are training his muscles and body as well as his mind. If you work him too hard before he is in shape for it, he will be tired and stiff the next day and in no mood for another lesson.

Regular short lessons are always better than infrequent long ones. Work with your horse a little every day, not just on weekends. Even when a horse is fully trained, only providing weekend workouts can be hard on him because he has too many days off in between. If you ask him to do more than he is physically conditioned for, his muscles will get sore. You can’t expect him to do as much when he’s only worked weekends as when he is being worked regularly.

Always do the first half-mile going away from home at a walk, to warm up your horse. And always walk him the last half-mile when coming home. This helps cool him down, and it also teaches him not to rush home.

When teaching him to drive in an arena or a training ring, remember that a horse expends more energy working in a circle than he does working on the straight or on a road or trail. It takes more muscle effort to make a circle, and the cart pulls harder as well. Half an hour of ring work may be roughly equal to an hour out on the road. Keep in tune with your horse, and don’t ask too much of him, especially in the beginning, or he will become sour about his work.

Also, always give him time to absorb one lesson before you advance to the next. For instance, when making gait transitions, make sure the horse knows the difference between a medium (working) trot and an extended trot before you ask him to go from an extended trot to a road trot (a fast trot that can be kept up for several miles).

If for some reason you are unable to work with the horse for a while, take the time to bring him back to condition slowly. Take him for several short drives before you attempt a longer workout.

As you work your horse gradually, remember to be consistent. For your horse to have good, dependable habits while driven, you must have good, consistent driving habits. In both riding and driving, your training goal is to develop good habits. Whether your horse develops good habits or bad ones depends on you.