7
FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS, riders have communicated with and controlled horses through mouth contact with a bit. The snaffle, the first type of bit, was used on chariot horses. Egyptians were using jointed snaffles by 1400 BC. These had straight cheek pieces, sometimes with sharp spikes pointing toward the horse.
There are basically only three types of bits: the snaffle; the curb; and the Pelham, which is a combination of snaffle and curb. The type of bit you use is not nearly as important as the horsemanship that accompanies it. When it comes to developing a good mouth on a horse — a mouth that is pliable and responsive to the bit, never pulling or fighting it or trying to avoid it — there is no substitute for light hands, good seat and balance, and the sensitivity to know how to interact with the horse.
It has been said that any rider who is experienced enough and capable enough to use a severe bit doesn’t need one, and no one else should use one. The factor that determines whether a bit is severe or mild is ultimately the hands that use it. The snaffle is sometimes categorized as a gentle bit, but when used with rough hands, it can be cruel. Some snaffles are designed to be as mild and comfortable as possible, for starting a young horse with a tender mouth; others are harsher, for use on an older, resistant horse. The latter are too severe for a young horse.
Snaffles
There are basically two kinds of snaffle, the bar snaffle (which can be straight or curved) and the jointed snaffle (which may have one or two joints). The straight bar snaffle exerts pressure straight back, directly on the corners of the mouth, when the reins are pulled. The jointed snaffle bends in the middle and comes farther back when pulled; it is usually more severe. A curved bar snaffle, called a half-moon, is a very mild bit, as the horse’s tongue has more room to move around.
The snaffle has a ring at each side for attaching to the cheek pieces of the headstall. The same ring is often used for attaching reins, though some bits have a separate ring for each purpose. The snaffle has no leverage action; it controls the horse by pressing on the bars and tongue and by direct movements to the side. A snaffle is usually the best type of bit for starting a green horse.
PRESSURE POINTS
All bits work on one or more of seven pressure points. These are the corners of the mouth, the bars (the toothless area of the gum between the front and back teeth), the tongue, the roof of the mouth, the chin groove, the poll, and the nose. The bars, tongue, and roof of the mouth are quite sensitive because they have many nerve endings. The chin groove, nose, and poll are also sensitive, being thin-skinned flesh over cartilage or bone. The corners of the mouth, composed of thick muscle tissue, are somewhat less sensitive.
Straight Snaffles
A straight snaffle rests on the tongue rather than on the bars. It moves upward and back when rein pressure is applied and has no squeezing action. These bits have either a straight or a curved mouthpiece and are considered very mild. Although they lack the scissors effect on bars and the corners of the mouth that a single-jointed snaffle has, they still can be harsh. If the mouthpiece is thin and cuts into the bars when pressure is applied, or if it is made of twisted wire, the mouthpiece will have a sharp edge that can be harsh if pulled hard. There are several varieties of straight snaffles, with rubber, metal, or twisted-wire mouthpieces.
Jointed Snaffles
Many snaffles have a single-jointed mouthpiece; in these, the bit bends in the middle. This puts more pressure on the corners of the mouth and on the bars and may also poke the roof of the mouth with the joint of the mouthpiece if the bit does not hang properly when the reins are pulled. A jointed snaffle has a lot of squeezing action.
When merely carried in the mouth, the single-jointed mouthpiece is quite straight, but as tension on the reins increases, the mouthpiece bends in the middle, pushing the joint toward the front of the mouth and squeezing the corners. If it does not fit properly or is of a poor design, it may pinch the tongue or pinch the corners of the mouth between the mouthpiece and the ring. Rubber bit guards are sometimes used to prevent this. Egg-butt and D-ring snaffles, which have large rings, help reduce the risk of pinching the corners of the mouth and are also less likely than O-rings to be pulled clear through the mouth.
Full-Cheek Snaffle
The full-cheek snaffle incorporates a cheek piece on each side in conjunction with the ring. The action is basically the same as with any other snaffle, except it gives more lateral control of the horse. Even a very slight tug on the rein will encourage the horse to bring his head around and turn, because the cheek piece on the opposite side is putting pressure on the jaw. This makes a headstrong horse easier to control.
Another advantage of the full-cheek snaffle, which is helpful for the green horse, is that the top of the cheek piece can be held parallel to the bridle cheek pieces with leather keepers in order to hold the bit in proper position in the horse’s mouth. It keeps the joint of the snaffle from dropping down in the center, as it tends to do unless the bridle is snug and the bit is held quite high in the mouth. The full-cheek snaffle with keeper loops can thus be adjusted a little lower in the mouth for the comfort of the horse, without the horse putting his tongue over the bit.
Because the full-cheek design makes it possible to hold the bit at a specific angle in the mouth, special mouthpieces are sometimes used, such as the double-jointed Dr. Bristol; the central link is a flat tab. When you are using a full-cheek snaffle, this mouthpiece is positioned to lie comfortably flat on the tongue when the horse is carrying his head in the proper position, but it tends to turn at a more severe angle if he sticks his nose out too far.
An egg-butt, or barrelhead, snaffle is held in place with an adjustable drop noseband.
A full-cheek snaffle is held in place with leather keepers attached to the cheeks of the bridle, along with a drop noseband.
MILD BITS
A snaffle mouthpiece that tapers — is wider at the sides and thinner at the middle — is a mild bit: it has more surface area over the bars and won’t cut into them, and it gives the tongue more room and comfort. If the horse has a thick tongue, a double-jointed mouthpiece (one with a flat plate in the center) may be most comfortable. The flat plate rests against the tongue, creating a bridge of thin smoothness over the tongue, instead of one joint protruding far forward over the fat tongue and poking the roof of the mouth. A rubber mouthpiece makes a mild bit, not only from the softness of the rubber but also due to the extra thickness.
Western Snaffle
The Western snaffle, also called the colt-training snaffle by Western trainers, is actually a very short-shanked jointed curb or a training curb with a jointed mouthpiece and rings for snaffle reins. Even though it is called a snaffle, this is a misnomer. These bits have shanks (pieces that extend downward from the mouthpiece, to which the reins are attached) and curb straps and are therefore curb bits rather than snaffles: they work on the leverage principle rather than with direct reining. The exception is the training bit with snaffle rings; it has the action of a snaffle when only the snaffle rings are used. When reins are attached to the short shanks, it becomes a curb.
A jointed shank snaffle should always have a bar across the bottom of the shank. This helps stabilize the bit and keeps the jointed mouthpiece from folding up too much at the center and possibly poking the roof of the horse’s mouth.
Gag Bit
The gag bit usually has a snaffle mouthpiece, but it has a hole through the top and bottom of each bit ring for a rounded piece of leather to pass through. The leather piece attaches to the bridle cheek piece at one end and to the rein at the other and must be able to slide freely through the holes in the metal bit rings. When the reins are pulled, these leather pieces move the bit higher in the horse’s mouth and also put pressure on the horse’s poll via the bridle crownpiece. Because of the added pressure at the mouth and poll, this bit can be quite severe if used harshly.
SNAFFLE ACTION
A snaffle puts direct pressure on the bars and corners of the mouth and on the tongue; bit severity depends on the horse’s head carriage and on the position of the rider’s hands. A high head carriage, coupled with hands held low, puts the action of the bit mostly on the bars of the mouth. A low head and high hands shifts pressure to the corners of the mouth. The snaffle does not encourage flexion at the poll or relaxation of the lower jaw, as a curb bit does; mainly, it encourages high head position due to its action on the bars and corners of the mouth. The snaffle requires the use of two hands on the reins and direct, or side-pull, reining.
When your horse is in a snaffle and you have a rein in each hand, use a give-and-take pull on one rein to turn his head in the direction you want him to go. Create slack with the other rein at the same time, so his head can turn. The “passive” hand must give as much rein as the “active” hand takes.
A high head carriage, coupled with hands held low, puts the action of the bit directly on the bars of the mouth.
A low head carriage and high hands will exert pressure on the corners of the mouth.
Curb Bits
Curbs are generally used on horses that are well along in their training. Most horses are started in some type of snaffle because it’s usually a mild bit, and its action tends to raise the head (and most green horses travel too heavily in front). As training progresses, however, most horses are eventually put into a curb, since the action of the curb tends to tuck the chin and bring the horse’s nose back toward his chest instead of sticking up in the air. Most horses can be more readily collected (see chapter 13) for enhanced balance and maneuverability when their advanced training is in a curb bit.
An English curb has straight shanks.
A Western curb has curved shanks.
The curb has either a jointed or an unjointed mouthpiece. The mouthpiece may be straight or have a port in the center to allow more room for the tongue. The port is a rise in the mouthpiece; ports come in various heights, shapes, and designs, which can all affect the function of the bit. When the bit is carried in the mouth (that is, with no rein pressure), the mouthpiece rests on the tongue and, if the port is high enough, on the bars. A port gives the tongue more room and helps keep the horse from getting his tongue over the bit. With a low port, the tongue receives pressure first, before the sides of the mouthpiece make contact with the bars. A high port is considered more severe; the bit puts pressure on the bars more quickly when the bit rotates, and the port also may touch the sensitive roof of the mouth.
The main feature that defines a curb is its shanks. Unlike a snaffle, a curb produces leverage action. A pull on the reins tips the bit in the horse’s mouth, which affects him in several ways. It puts pressure on the bars of his mouth or on the bars and tongue as the bit tips, depending on how it is made. As the bit is tipped, it brings the curb strap or chain tight against the horse’s chin. It also puts some pressure on the top of his head with the headstall. The port, if high, may push against the roof of his mouth.
BIT SEVERITY VARIES
Some curb bits are more severe than others. A curb with short shanks and a wide, low port is the most gentle because it has less leverage, allows the horse a lot of tongue room, and does not touch the roof of his mouth. The thickness of the mouthpiece is also a factor; a thick mouthpiece is milder than a thin one, which if used harshly tends to cut into the tongue and bars.
The proportionate length of the cheek pieces also contributes to the severity of a curb bit. The length of shank below the mouthpiece and the length of the upper cheek piece, above the mouthpiece, determine the amount of leverage on the jaw. A long shank puts more leverage on the jaw and on top of the headstall than a short shank, with just a slight pull on the reins. The bottom of the shank is pulled up and back, which tips its upper part downward and forward, pulling on the curb chain or strap and transferring downward force on the poll.
There are many styles of curbs, but they all work on the same principle. There are English curbs and Western curbs. The English curb usually has a straight shank; the Western curbs (and some walking-horse bits) have shanks that curve backward. The curve prevents lipping, the horse grabbing the shank with his mouth. English curbs use a lip strap.
Short-Shanked Curbs
The length of the shank is partly what determines the severity or mildness of a curb. A short-shanked bit does not provide as much leverage as a bit with longer shanks; action of the short shanks puts less pressure on the horse’s chin via the curb strap or chain and on the top of the head via the headstall. For instance, the grazing curb is a mild bit with a low port and short shanks, short enough that the horse can graze with this bit in his mouth; the shanks do not bump the ground as he eats.
Many bits have a cheek length (total shank length) equal to the width of the mouthpiece. Thus, if the mouthpiece is 5 inches, the cheek (shank) will be 5 inches long. A common short-shanked bit is the Tom Thumb (used as just a curb or sometimes as a Pelham), which has a cheek length of only 3½ to 4½ inches with a 5-inch mouthpiece.
LOOSE SHANKS
A bit with “loose-jawed” shanks that swivel on the mouthpiece is a milder bit than one with solid shanks. The loose shanks give the horse a little more advance notice for rein cues and more chance to balance the bit in his mouth without discomfort. The horse is often more responsive to a bit that has joints between the mouthpiece and the shanks; the rider can communicate with just a jiggle of the bit. A hinged shank also gives more directional function, in that the horse can respond to a pull that is slightly to the side, whereas a solid shank is useful only for a pull straight back.
Long-Shanked Curbs
There are a variety of long-shanked curbs, both English and Western. Longer shanks make the bit more severe. The Western “cutting-horse bit” is relatively mild, however, as it has a low port and the shanks curve back dramatically, producing less leverage than does a straight-shanked bit. A Western “grazing bit” with long shanks is mild because the shanks are curved back so far that the horse can get his nose to the ground without bumping the bit.
Curb Chain or Strap
With the curb chain or strap, the chain or strap is hooked to the top of the curb bit’s cheek piece — either to the loop for the headstall or with its own loop, slot, or hook; it hangs behind the bit and connects with the back of the jaw, in the chin groove, only when the bit is tipped by a pull on the reins. The looser the curb chain, the less severe it is; the reins have to be pulled quite hard and the bit tipped quite a distance before the chain puts pressure on the chin groove. In contrast, a tight curb strap or chain will press into the chin more readily, even with a lighter touch of the reins.
Most riders adjust the strap or chain to moderate looseness. If the bit is resting in the horse’s mouth, you should be able to fit two fingers between the jaw and the chain. If you pull back the shank of the bit, as a pull on the reins would do, the chain or strap should make contact with the horse’s jaw by the time the bit shank is at a 45-degree angle.
For a sensitive horse who doesn’t take much touch on the reins to stop, a loose chain or strap is best. When starting the young horse in a curb after early schooling in a snaffle, keep the curb strap or chain fairly loose until he gets used to it. For a spoiled horse who doesn’t respond well to a light touch and needs a firmer hand, you’ll want it tighter: this will give him more signal to stop when you put pressure on the bit.
The curb chain is adjusted for moderate looseness and will not contact the chin groove until the curb reins are pulled and the curb bit is tipped about 45 degrees.
Spade Bit
The spade bit should never be used by a novice. It was traditionally used by master reinsmen on well-trained horses that were first started in a hackamore, then put into the bridle to become “finished” horses after extensive schooling. If improperly used, a spade bit can be severe.
The spade bit acts on the roof of the mouth as well as on the bars and tongue. It gets its name from the shovel-like projection rising from the port, the purpose of which is to have more total area of contact in the mouth. It lies flat against the tongue when the bit is properly adjusted. The spade usually has copper components, which stimulate more salivation. Extra salivation helps avoid a dry mouth and makes the bit more comfortable. The high port can injure the roof of the mouth if the bit is used harshly, but a good, experienced horseman uses a light touch on the reins, and the horse is trained to a high degree of responsiveness.
The spade bit is quite heavy, which encourages the horse to carry his head properly, in a flexed position. The weight of the bit hangs from the bridle; it does not rest on the bars of the mouth.
Half-Breed Bit
The half-breed bit combines features of a spade bit with those of a standard curb bit. It has a high port that usually contains a cricket, or roller, and is used on horses that are well along in their training.
CALMING CRICKETS
Crickets are rollers attached to the mouthpiece of the bit, usually a curb bit with port. The horse can roll these with his tongue, making a clicking noise. Nervous horses seem to relax more if they have something like this in their mouths to play with. They also encourage more saliva production, which makes the bit more comfortable.
How to Use a Curb
If you’re riding Western with a curb bit or with curb reins on a Pelham, you’ll have both reins in one hand to neck-rein. To turn the horse, press the left rein against his neck when you want him to turn right and the right rein against his neck to turn left. Basically, you are pushing his neck in the direction you want him to go, using the rein fairly high on the neck, if he is still learning, so he can feel it. On a well-trained horse, a slight touch of the rein a few inches ahead of his withers is adequate.
The curb bit, used by a good rider who keeps a constant light touch on the bit via the reins, encourages a horse to lower his head and flex at the poll, with his face and nose almost vertical rather than stuck out in front. The horse is usually put in a curb after he’s well started in a snaffle or after a lot of work in a hackamore (see page 196). Most horsemen don’t feel a horse is “finished” in training until he is schooled in the curb, as responsiveness and collection can be refined more fully. Proper use of a curb bit promotes a more relaxed jaw and better head carriage for the collection and balance needed for precision work, whether executing advanced dressage movements or cutting a cow from the herd.
When neck-reining, gently press the indirect rein against the horse’s neck. To turn to the left, touch the right rein to his neck; to turn to the right, touch the left rein to his neck.
The Pelham
A Pelham, or combination bit, has attributes of both the snaffle and the curb bit. It has a curb mouthpiece and shanks, with rings at the mouthpiece for snaffle reins and rings at the bottom of the shanks for curb reins. Use of snaffle reins gives the effect of a mild bar snaffle, and the horse’s head can be influenced by a direct rein. (There are also a few Pelhams with jointed mouthpieces.) Use of the curb reins gives the leverage action of the curb.
Short-shanked Pelham bit with straight mouthpiece
Long-shanked Pelham bit with port
There are many shank lengths available in a Pelham, from short Tom Thumbs and Kimberwickes to some Pelhams with 9-inch shanks. Mouthpieces come in a variety of shapes and materials, including steel, metal alloys, rubber, and copper. There are jointed Pelhams, but these can poke forward in the center and hit the top of the mouth when the reins are pulled. The double-jointed mouthpieces on some Pelhams and Kimberwicke bits lie more smoothly on the tongue and don’t form a sharp point in the middle when bent. Mouthpieces can be made of soft or hard rubber, but the latter is more durable. The bulky rubber makes a comfortable, mild mouthpiece.
Combination of Effects
The Pelham is a handy bit for all kinds of riding. You can ride a horse English style or Western in a Pelham, using either snaffle reins or curb reins. It is an excellent schooling bit when using all four reins, as the rider can engage different pressure points for different purposes to help raise the horse’s head or collect him more freely.
Using the Pelham as a Training Bit
After a horse is working well in a snaffle, a transition from snaffle to curb is easily accomplished with a Pelham. Use just the snaffle reins until the horse gets used to the bit, then add the curb reins. Use all four reins for a while, then gradually increase use of the curb reins and work less with the snaffle reins, until the horse is accustomed to the feel and signals of the curb bit.
MOUTH-WATERING BITS
The metal used can make a difference in whether a horse likes a certain bit. Most horses don’t like aluminum or the taste of chrome-plated bits; some don’t like a rubber mouthpiece and will try to spit out the bit. Stainless steel, copper, and iron are usually well tolerated. Many horsemen prefer copper or an iron-copper combination because this tends to stimulate salivation — hence, more comfort for the horse. A wet mouth, in which the bit moves around more easily, is preferred.
This works well for putting the horse into a curb and for further work in teaching him collection and lightness. The snaffle reins are used to help raise his head, and the action of the curb helps tuck his nose and set his head, thus enabling the horse to balance himself better, putting less weight on his front legs.
Some trainers use a converter strap on the Pelham when making the transition from snaffle to curb. This is a small strap that attaches to both the snaffle and the curb rings on the Pelham. One set of reins is then attached to the converter strap. The reins put some pressure on the curb, but the horse can also be direct-reined (that is, you pull his head to the side with one rein, as with a snaffle) if necessary. After the horse is ridden with the converter strap for a while, remove it and ride him with just the curb reins of the Pelham. The disadvantage of a converter strap is that you don’t get the precise effects of either a snaffle or a curb; most trainers prefer the four reins.
The Double Bridle
The full double bridle uses two bits — a curb, such as the Weymouth, and a thin bridoon snaffle — each with its own set of reins, which may be used independently to achieve various responses from the horse. The double bridle is mainly used in higher levels of dressage after years of training for the horse and rider, with gaited horses in the show ring, or on polo horses.
The double bridle used for dressage has thicker mouthpieces and relatively short shanks, whereas the gaited show ring bridle has longer shanks and a thinner bridoon (the snaffle part of the full bridle). A horse with a shallow mouth may not be able to accept the bulk of a dressage double bridle. The snaffle hangs from a separate strap of leather threaded through the brow band under the crownpiece of the headstall. The curb is attached to cheek pieces of the bridle and hangs below the snaffle.
Ensure Proper Fit
Whatever bit you choose, it must fit the horse. A bit too wide slides back and forth and is annoying and less precise; a bit too narrow can pinch the corners of the mouth. If it doesn’t fit, the bit causes discomfort — or acute pain — and adverse reactions to your cues. Your horse may open his mouth, try to spit out the bit, or toss his head. He may try to avoid bit pressure, throw his head in the air, carry his head too low, or get behind the bit, meaning he’ll tuck his chin and refuse to engage the bit, leaving you with no control and no communication through the bit.
Pain from an ill-fitting bit may cause your horse to travel with his neck stiff or with tense muscles, losing agility and fluidity as he tries to avoid the discomfort. Some horses pull against the bit or root the nose forward in an attempt to get away from pain. If your horse reacts adversely to a certain bit, check it for proper fit.
How to Tell whether the Bit Fits
Years ago there was an instrument horsemen used to measure a horse’s mouth. The exact width of the mouth was measured, and a bit was made to fit that horse. Today bits come in specific sizes, and many are bought with no thought as to size or width of the mouth they are to fit. Often a bit is selected for other reasons, such as cost, looks, and favorite style or because a friend has one that works well on his horse.
THINK BEFORE YOU BUY
When selecting a bit, remember that bits and mouth size vary and that different bits have different purposes. Always consider the horse’s training and the rider’s ability when choosing a bit.
If you are ordering or selecting a bit for a young horse or a new horse, measure the width of his mouth by pulling a piece of string through it where the bit would go. Mark or tie a knot in the string at each side, at the corners of his mouth. Select a bit with a mouthpiece about ⅛ inch longer than your string. The bit must be slightly wider than the mouth, so the hinges of the snaffle rings or shanks of the curb just clear the mouth corners. A bit that is much wider than this, whether snaffle, curb, or Pelham, may shift around or rest unevenly in the mouth. If the mouthpiece shows, the bit is too wide. If it’s too narrow, the mouth corners will be crammed and the bit will make sores at the corners of the mouth.
Size and Balance
Width and fit are just as important in the curb and Pelham as they are in the snaffle, and the curb or Pelham also must be well balanced. For the horse’s comfort — and for best communication through his mouth — the bit must hang properly so it puts no extra pressure on any one spot. An unbalanced bit does not hang properly, lower ends of the shanks tend to come forward when the horse mouths the bit, and points of contact in the mouth are altered, thus interfering with signals through the bit.
A balanced bit always returns to the proper position when it is resting in the mouth with no rein pressure. A curb bit must be heavier on the bottom half or it can’t do this. You can’t get proper action from a bit that isn’t balanced.
Many horses like a heavy curb or Pelham bit, and a bit made of steel or iron usually works better than one constructed of aluminum. Not only do they dislike the taste of an aluminum bit, but also it is so light that it floats around in the mouth instead of resting comfortably on the bars and staying in proper position. A horse likes the feel of a heavier bit, and if it hangs properly balanced, it encourages him to travel with his head in a balanced position.
BIT BALANCE
To check the balance of a curb or Pelham, hold it with one finger, resting the center of the mouthpiece on your finger. If it is properly balanced, it will rest on your finger in the position it should rest in the horse’s mouth, with shanks hanging down and slightly to the rear.
The heavier the bit and reins, the lighter your touch can be on the reins. Your horse can feel the slightest motion of your fingers even if there’s slack in the reins, because the weight of the bit and reins maintains a light feel on his mouth at all times. A heavy bit gives a more instant signal and also a quicker release of pressure, thus allowing feather-light communication through the reins. In contrast, a light bit and light reins cannot convey that touch without stronger fingering of the reins. In order to keep proper feel of the mouth with light reins and bit, you must have a constantly taut rein.
Avoiding Bit Pain
Pain from a bit generally results from harsh use by the rider or an improper fit. Rough use of a bit may permanently damage nerve endings in the bars of the mouth. The horse’s tongue is sensitive, but it can move around freely and get away from some of the pressure caused by a bit that fits improperly or is used too harshly. The bars, chin groove, and mouth corners cannot escape the discomfort, however, and the horse may toss his head, pull against the bit, or show some other sign of displeasure.
If a horse reacts improperly to a certain bit, the rider’s first thought may be to try a different bit. This is the proper thing to do if the bit fits poorly, because it must fit him to be comfortable. All too often, however, a rider goes to a more severe bit rather than trying to find one that fits better, and this aggravates the horse’s problem, especially if it was caused by the rider’s rough use of the bit in the first place.
PROPER ADJUSTMENT OF THE HEADSTALL
Proper bit fit also depends on the tightness or looseness of the headstall. If the cheek pieces are too tight, the bit may press up against the horse’s cheek teeth, especially if he has wolf teeth, and will also rub the corners of his mouth. If cheek pieces are too loose, the bit hangs too low in the mouth and may clank against the incisors or canine teeth, causing annoyance or pain. Also, the horse may put his tongue over the bit.
Interfering-Teeth Problems
If a horse has bit problems, check his teeth. Many horses have wolf teeth, which are residual teeth located next to the molars. These may cause discomfort when a snaffle hits them. A jointed snaffle is pulled back into the corners of the mouth when the reins are pulled and may bump the wolf teeth or pinch the horse’s flesh between the bit and his teeth.
Canine teeth (all male horses have them, and some females have small ones) are located farther forward, a short way behind the last incisor. These generally don’t cause trouble unless the headstall is too loose and the bit clanks against them, though sometimes they can make it awkward to put on and take off the bridle. Canine teeth usually are not as much of a problem as wolf teeth. The latter are often removed before a young horse goes into training so they won’t create trouble with a bit. A bit rarely causes pain from contact with molars (as when it is adjusted too high in the mouth or a snaffle is being pulled against the corners of the mouth and hitting the molars) unless it hits a sensitive wolf tooth.
The usual cause of pain from the scissors effect of a snaffle being pulled into the corners of the mouth is the pinching of the flesh of the cheek between the bit and a tooth. When a horse resists the bit, check his mouth before you decide to change to something more severe. If the horse’s cheeks have been injured because the bit has been crushing them against the molars, the horse may need dental work to adapt the molars for use of a bit. The flesh of the cheek is a cushion between bit and tooth, and if the tooth interferes with the bit, the cheeks will become sore and perhaps infected. The molars the bit is working against can make even the mildest snaffle an instrument of torture.
Wolf teeth often interfere with the use of a bit. Canine teeth can be bumped when unbridling and may also be a hazard for your fingers when you put a finger into the interdental space. Be careful.
Choosing a Training Bit
When choosing a training bit for a young horse, most trainers start with a snaffle (straight bar or jointed), and some use a Western snaffle (see page 181). Whatever bit you use should be comfortable for the youngster and fit him properly. The important thing is to make his first experiences pleasant, not painful. If a bit irritates or causes him pain, he will focus more on the problem in his mouth than on what you are trying to teach him.
The snaffle is ideal for starting a young horse because of its action. The purpose of the snaffle is to raise the head and enable the rider to use direct reining — that is, pulling the horse’s head around in the direction you want him to go. You cannot properly direct-rein a horse with the curb. Until the horse is further along and has learned responses to leg pressure and neck-reining, he cannot respond well to the curb. He needs a bit in which “turn signals” can be given with a direct pull to the side.
The snaffle is designed for lateral action — pulling one rein at a time to turn the head to the side. Pulling forcefully with both reins at once for control, when trying to stop a horse, for example, or to make him go slower, leads to resistance. It creates a painful nutcracker action in the mouth, especially with a single-jointed snaffle, and he’ll try to brace against it. Your horse soon becomes unresponsive. To control him, use a seesaw action (one rein at a time) or just one rein to pull his head around. Use of two reins in a snaffle is for communication — gentle give and take when teaching him to accept the bit, stretch out and walk, stay at the proper speed in a certain gait — never for control.
The green horse must learn to raise his head and balance himself while carrying a rider. Every untrained horse travels uncollected, meaning heavy on his front end. Until he learns to travel lighter in front and to transfer more weight off his forehand, keep him in the snaffle, as its action tends to raise his head.
Importance of a Thick Mouthpiece
An effective snaffle has a fairly thick mouthpiece that won’t cut or pinch the corners of the mouth. Most horses do best with a thick mouthpiece, even in a curb, because it rests on the sensitive gums between the incisors and molars. The bars where the bit rests are sharp-edged bones with a thin covering of delicate tissue and nerve endings. The thinner the bit, the more it can press or even cut into that tissue and the more pain it can cause. The ideal thickness for a mouthpiece, however, will depend on the build of a horse’s mouth, the size of his tongue, and the type of bit used.
Choose a Mild Bit
The young horse does not know how to respond to a bit. There will be times when you have to pull a little harder than you would on a trained horse, when the youngster shies, for example, or when his attention is suddenly distracted by things an experienced horse is used to. Until a youngster learns what is expected of him, he may be unpredictable and occasionally need a little more control.
You don’t want to injure his mouth with a severe bit. You can maintain good control with a mild bit if you know how to use it, such as pulling his head around with one rein in the snaffle if he tries to bolt or buck. Most hard-mouthed horses — those that are unresponsive to the bit and pull against you — are made that way by riders with severe bits who did not know how to use them and abused the mouth to the point where the horse has little feeling left.
No matter what bit you want to use on the horse later, start him in a mild snaffle, or try a colt-training snaffle using only the snaffle rings. You want him to learn to move out boldly. With a mild bit and thick mouthpiece, he’ll be more likely to take hold of the bit and be comfortable with it, without fear of its pinching or hurting him. The purpose of a bit is communication, but you can’t establish this if he associates the bit with pain or if he is confused by it. There are several good training snaffles, including the egg-butt snaffle, in which the ends of the mouthpiece join to the rings in a smooth meshing that cannot pinch the corners of the horse’s mouth.
An egg-butt snaffle is a mild bit.
Adjusting the Fit
When using a snaffle, adjustment for the cheek pieces of the headstall has been correctly made when there’s just one small wrinkle at the corners of the mouth. If it is looser than that, the bit can shift around or bang the teeth, and the horse may put his tongue over it. When first starting him in a snaffle, have the headstall a little tighter — look for two wrinkles at the mouth corners — to make sure he can’t get his tongue over the bit while trying to spit it out. If he gets his tongue over the bit, you have less control and little communication; this position changes the point of contact in the mouth.
After he gets used to carrying the bit and no longer attempts to move it around with his tongue and spit it out, readjust the headstall to give him a little more room. Then he can safely move the bit with his tongue and mouth and put it where he feels most comfortable.
COMFORT IS KEY
Some horses can still get their tongues over a bit when it is adjusted high — with the headstall quite tight — and then have a hard time getting the tongue back to its proper place; it becomes stuck over the bit. When the bit is set at a comfortable level, the horse may play with it, but he soon learns how to hold it in a comfortable position with his tongue under it.
The Importance of Good Hands
Your horse must learn to accept bit pressure without fear or resentment. You want him to relax, flex, and be pliable to your hands, giving to the bit rather than fighting it. If he develops a good mouth, he won’t have a rigid neck or head, nor will he protest the cues he gets through the bit. A horse with a relaxed jaw accepts your signals; he’s not afraid he’ll have to endure pain. Proper bitting and a good mouth are necessary before he can advance in his training and become collected and responsive to all the rider’s signals.
The horsemanship of the rider using a bit is more important than the bit itself. Too many riders seem to think bits are for making horses do certain things. The novice horseman usually puts too much emphasis on the bit. A good trainer and rider works more with the legs, balance, proper seat, and good hands. The severity of any bit is relative to the skills, or lack thereof, of the rider.
A horse will usually resort to devious behavior like head tossing, tongue rolling, and mouth opening as a defense against rough hands and poor horsemanship. Once he develops these habits, it is hard to get rid of them; it may take much time and patience to retrain the horse whose resistance to a bit is automatic. It’s better to exercise care and patience when training the horse the first time so only good habits are established.
The Hackamore
Some horsemen use a hackamore (not to be confused with a mechanical hacka-more; see the box on page 198) when starting a young horse. It provides a way to teach him to respond to the rider’s hands without risk of dulling a sensitive mouth. The hackamore is a simple headstall with a noseband, called the bosal, made of braided rawhide. Some hackamores have a fiador, a rope piece that serves as throatlatch and goes down to tie to the heel knot of the noseband. It provides loops for reins.
The hackamore method was used in California and Mexico by early Spanish-influenced riders, who started all young horses in the bosal and later finished the training in a spade bit (see page 186).
The most important part of the hackamore is the rawhide bosal. Similar in shape to a small unstrung tennis racket, the “handle” is a short rawhide knob (heel knot) that rests under the jaw. It balances the hackamore and keeps the reins from sliding off the bosal. A good hackamore has a rawhide core, not a cable core. The rawhide shapes itself to the horse’s nose and jaw and stays properly shaped; it won’t put pressure in the wrong place.
The reins (mecate) consist of a one-piece, 18- to 20-foot hair rope. One end is left free for use as a lead rope and is attached to the saddle when the horse is ridden. The bosal rides high on the nose where the bones end in cartilage. The heel knot and the rope wrapped around it to form the reins add the necessary weight to make the noseband fall away from the horse’s sensitive jaw whenever rein pressure is released. Normal position of the noseband is tilted, with the front part on the nose well up and the heel knot down.
Hackamore with fiador
WHY HACKAMORE?
The word “hackamore” comes from the Arab word hackma, which is the name for the headgear used on camels in some countries. The Moors invaded Spain more than a thousand years ago, bringing their horsemanship and tack with them. In Spanish the word hackma became jáquima (the Spanish j is pronounced as an h). When the Spanish term came to North America, it was pronounced “hackamore” in English.
BITLESS BRIDLES
Mechanical hackamore. Not really a hackamore, this bitless bridle uses leverage points on the nose, jaw, and top of the head. When pulled by the reins, shanks put pressure on the noseband, bring the curb chain against the jaw, and tip the cheek pieces forward to put pressure on the poll. Some riders use this for spoiled horses that don’t respond to bit pressure or for horses with injured mouths.
Mechanical hackamore with fleece-lined noseband
The principle of the mechanical hackamore is similar to that of most bits: longer shanks provide more leverage action on the chin groove and poll; thinner nosebands are more severe than broad, thick ones. Using a mechanical hackamore improperly can permanently damage the cartilage of the nose.
Side-pull. This very simple bitless bridle puts pressure on the nose when both reins are pulled and turns the horse by direct pull to the side with one rein. There are several varieties, and some have a curb strap that tightens when the reins are pulled.
This side-pull bridle with curb strap puts pressure on the nose, poll, and chin groove when the reins are pulled.
Hackamore Training
When you pull a rein on the hackamore, the heel knot comes up under the jaw and makes contact, and the noseband comes down to put pressure on the nose. The bosal rests on the cartilage just below the nasal bone but can be periodically adjusted higher or lower to keep from making one spot sore. It’s also a good idea to make adjustments in order to keep the contact area sensitive to pressure so it won’t become tough and callused.
If the bosal is too high — that is, resting on bone — the rider has less control. The lower part of the nose is more sensitive. If the bosal is hung too low, thus putting pressure on delicate tissue low on the nose, a hard or prolonged pull can damage the nose. The bosal on a starting hackamore should be padded on the sides so it won’t skin the jaw on a hard pull. The trainer must usually pull hard at first to take away the horse’s head when doubling him — that is, pulling the horse around to where he is facing the opposite direction.
The trainer teaches the horse to give to a pull and release. A horse, being stronger than a human, can’t be controlled with a halter, leather noseband, or bosal with sheer pull force, so the trainer uses a technique that gives control over the horse’s mind and hence his body. After learning to respond to the hackamore, the trainer can switch to a bit and won’t have to pull hard on the reins because the horse already knows how to respond.
Handling the Reins
Always handle hackamore reins with your hands held low. The green horse should be doubled from both sides during ground work, before the rider gets on, so the youngster knows how to give to a pull on one rein. Then when he is ridden, he learns to follow his nose around when one rein is pulled.
Doubling is the basis of hackamore training. If the horse tries to buck, bolt, rear, or balk, the trainer doubles him. This thwarts his improper action, teaches him always to obey the rein, and to position his feet for agile turns.
Reins are rarely used at the same time. If a young horse starts to bolt, the worst thing to do is pull on the reins — let him run a few seconds on a loose rein. Then take a good, short hold on one rein and pull low and hard, turning him clear around in a series of quick pulls. The pulls should be straight back and low, with give-and-take action — pull and release. After a horse has had his head suddenly pulled around a few times and has been made to double, he soon learns to stop when asked to.
Doubling the horse gives the rider control. After a horse learns to work in a hackamore, he becomes very responsive. One quick pull, and he stops. One pull to the side, and he turns. In the beginning, however, it will take several give-and-take pulls to bring him around from a gallop.
If the trainer uses reins correctly, the horse becomes lighter on his feet and learns to handle himself for a stop or turn. After the horse works calmly and doubles nicely, he can do circles and figure eights at a canter. He learns better balance. He starts to collect and to change leads at the canter.
Some trainers keep a horse in a hackamore a year before switching to a bit. It usually takes at least 10 months to prepare a horse for the bridle. If he is not put into a bit when he is ready, however, he eventually may become insensitive to the hackamore and will regress in his training. The hackamore is a great way to start a horse, but it is not the final finishing tool.
DOUBLING
Doubling always must be started from a loose rein. A tight rein enables the horse to disobey by exerting his own strength to resist, pulling against the rider’s pull. It is instinctive for the horse to pull against pressure. If the rider uses constant pressure, the horse will lean into the snug noseband and find he has more strength than the rider, and the rider won’t be able to pull him around. If the rein is always loose, however, the horse never knows when he is going to be pulled around and has no opportunity to brace his neck muscles against the pull. If the trainer handles the reins correctly, the young horse will never learn his own strength.
Control of the horse with a hackamore depends on being able to double him: pulling his head around quickly with one rein and turning him around so that he is facing the opposite direction.